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A 

TOUR 

I  N 

IRELAND: 

WITH 

GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS 

O  N    T  H  E 

PRESENT  STATE  of  that  KINGd5m. 

MADE     IN 

The   YEARS   1776,  1777,  and  1778. 

AND 

Brought   down   to  the  End  of    1779. 


By  ARTHUR  YOUNG, -Efq;  F.R.  S. 

Honorary  Member  of  the  Societies  of  Duelin,  York  and  Man- 
chester; the  Oeconomical  Society  of  Berne  3  the  Palatine 
Academy  of  Agriculture,  at  Manheim,  and  the 
Phyfical  Society  at  Zurich. 


DUBLIN: 

Printed  by  George  Bonham, 

For  Messrs.  WHITESTONE,  SLEATER,  SHEPPARD, 

WILLIAMS,    BURNET,    WILSON,     JENKIN, 

WOGAN,  VALLANCE,  WHITE,  BEATTY, 

BYRN,  and  BURTON. 

tux  oeoooxryxXKocaxon 
M.DCC.LXXX. 


PREFACE. 


NUMEROUS  as  the  publications 
on  hufbandry  have  become  in 
almoft  every  part  or  Europe,  few  of 
them  let  us  in  o  its  aclual  ftate  in  any- 
country.  Authors  feem  to  have  dif- 
dained  recording  the  practice,  fo  much 
have  they  been  employed  in  prefcribing 
alterations.  Several  reafons  may  be  af- 
figned  for  this  omiffion  :  to  defcribe  the 
agriculture  of  a  province,  it  is  necef- 
fary  to  travel  into  it,  and  among  the 
writers  who  have  been  moil  volumi- 
nous upon  this  fubject,  the  greater 
number  have  been  confined  to  their 
own  farms, — perhaps  to  their  fire  fides. 
It  was  impoffible  for  them  to  have  giv- 
en detailed  defcriptions  of  what  tney 
had  never  feen. 

a  %  There 


iv         PREFACE. 

There  is  alio  a  greater  temptation  to 
the  production  of  fuch  dida&ic  works 
as  are  moft  ufual  in  agriculture,  than 
to  the  lefs  entertaining  minutiae  of  com- 
mon management.  The  man  who 
compofes  a  piece  for  inftructing  others 
how  to  conduct  their  lands,  generally 
includes  all  forts  of  foils,  fituations,  and 
circumftances;  his  views  are  great,  his 
work  comprehensive,  round,  and  com- 
plete, and  every  reader  finds  fomething 
that  fuits  him.  The  fuccefs  which  has 
attended  the  complete  b  dies,  general 
treatifes,  and  d  Bknaries  of  the  fub- 
ject,  though  compiled  by  men  as  much 
acquainted  with  aftronomy,  as  with 
agriculture,  muft  have  been  owing  to 
thefe  circumftances:  as  the  good  recep- 
tion of  well  written,  though  erroneous 
theories  is,  to  the  agreeable  bearing 
awry  the  palm  due  to  the  nfefid  alone. 
But  a  reader  who  would  wifh.  to  receive 
real  information,  fhould  readily  give  up 
the  pieafure  of  being  amufed  for  the 
ufe  of  being  inftructed ;  the  number 
of  fuch,  however,  will  always  be  com- 
paratively 


PREFACE.  v 

paratively  fmall,  and  the  writer  who 
aims  limply  at  utility,  muft  expect  his 
productions  to  give  place  to  thofe  of  a 
more  amufing  turn.  When  a  long 
courfe  of  years  has  proved  the  impor- 
tance of  the  facts  he  has  collected,  his 
labours  will  probably  have  their  due  ef- 
timation. 

The  details  of  common  management 
are  dry  and  unentertaining  ;  nor  is  it 
eafy  to  render  them  intereftlng  by  or- 
naments of  ftyle.  The  tillage  with 
which  the  peafant  prepares  the  ground; 
the  manure  with  which  he  fertilizes  it; 
the  quantities  of  the  feed  of  the  feve- 
ral  fpecies  of  grain  which  he  commits 
to  it  ;  and  the  products  that  repay  his 
induftry,  neceflarily  in  the  recital  run 
into  chains  of  repetition,  which  tire  the 
ear,  and  fatigue  the  imagination.  Great 
however  is  the  ftructure  raifed  oil  this 
foundation  :  it  may  be  dry,  but  it  is  im- 
portant, for  thefe  are  the  circumftances 
upon  which  depend  the  wealth,  prof- 
peri  ty?  and   power   of   nations.      The 

minutiae 


ti         PREFACE, 

minutiae  of   the  farmer's  management, 
low,  and  feemingly  inconfiderable  as  he 
is,  are  fo  many  links  of  a  chain  which 
conned!  him  with  the    State.     Kings 
ought  not  to  forget  that  the  fplendour 
of  majefty  is  derived  from  the  fweat  of 
induftrious,  and    too   often    opprefTed 
peafants.       The    rapacious    conqueror 
who  deftroys,  and    the  great  ftatefman 
who  protects  humanity,  are  equally  in- 
debted for  their  power  to  the  care  with 
which  the   farmer  cultivates  his    fields. 
The    monarch    of  thefe    realms    muft 
know,  that  when  he   is  fitting  on  his 
throne  at  Weftminfter,  furrounded  by 
nothing  but  flate  and  magnificence,  that 
the   poorer!:,  the   moft    opprefled,   the 
mod  unhappy  peafant,  in  the  remoteft 
corner  of  Ireland,  contributes  his  fliare 
to  the  fupport  of  the  gaiety  that  enli- 
vens, and  the  fplendour  that  adorns  the 
fcene. 

If  fuch  is  the  importance  of  thefe 
little  movements  in  the  great  machine 
of  the  State,  to  know  and  to  underftand 

them, 


PREFACE.  vii 

them,  furely  deferves  the  attention  of 
men,  who  are  willing  to  facrifice  their 
amufement  to  their  information.  This 
is  in  other  words  faying,  that  the  Hate 
of  common  husbandry,  in  all  its  varia- 
tions and  connections  ought  to  be  well 
underftood.  Of  little  confequence  ir.uft 
precepts,  maxims,  and  directions  for  a 
better  conduct  appear,  unlefs  we  really 
know  the  evils  that  are  to  be  remedied, 
and  the  practices  that  are  to  be  con- 
demned. Without  this  necellary  know- 
ledge, the  recommendations  of  the  mofl 
ingenious  fpeculative  author,  muft  be 
almoft  ufelefs;  and  the  labours  of  the 
experimentalift,  want  much  of  the  ap- 
plication which  is  to  render  his  fads 
important.  The  object  of  every  writer 
in  rural  ceconomics  is  to  make  hufban- 
dry  better.  But  before  they  attempt 
that,  fhould  they  not  know  what  it  is  ? 
This  idea  has  often  made  me,  in  read- 
ing books  of  agriculture,  lament  that 
the  firft  chapter  of  every  practical  work, 
was  not  a  plain  detailed  account  of  the 
common  management  in  the  pariiTi  or 

neigh- 


viii        PREFACE, 

neighbourhood,  where  the  author  lived 
and  wrote. 

To  render  this  fort    of  knowledge 
genera]   and   corrplete,  it   is    necefTary 
that  every  gentleman  refiding   in    the 
country,     and     practifing     agriculture, 
fhould  write  and  publifh  an  account  of 
fo  much   as  falls  within   the   fphere  of 
his    obfervation :    The    experience    of 
centuries  has  {hewn  us  how  much  this 
may  be  expected.     Were  it  done,  fuch 
journies    as  I  have  regiftered  and  pub- 
lifhed,  would  have  been  perfectly  un- 
nt-cefTary.     A   man  who  has  attended 
fome   years  to  hufbandry  in  one  place, 
would   have  it   in  his  power  to  gain  a 
far  better  and  more  particular   account 
of  every  circumftance  than  it  is  pofli- 
ble  a  traveller  fhould  procure. 

Thefe  accounts  however  having  no 
exigence,  fuch  as  I  have  more  than 
once  offered  to  the  public,  may  have 
their  ule:  what  fhould  chiefly  induce 
the   reader   to  think  {o^  is   their  being 

taken 


PREFACE.         ix 

taken  on  the  fpot,  from  the  mouths  of 
gentlemen  or  farmers  who  refuie  in  the 
diftri&s,    they   defcribe—  that   the    ac- 
counts are  however  perfect,  cannot  be 
expected — they  are  proportionally  fo  to 
the    fagacity,    information,  and  expe- 
rience of  the  perfonwho  fpeaks.  When 
my   intelligence   was  received    from  a 
company  of  gentlemen,  I  always  wait- 
ed for  their  fettling  among  tVemfelves. 
any  difference  of  opinion  before  I  en- 
tered the  minute;  and  if  they  did  not 
agree,  took  the  average  of  the  fums  or 
quantities  in  queftion. 

The  unbounded  hofpltality  of  a 
kingdom  in  which  every  country  gen- 
tleman is  by  neceffity  a  farmer,  left  me 
under  very  few  difficulties,  in  gaining 
intelligence  :  but  I  did  not  trull  entire- 
ly to  this  fource,  having  upon  mod  oe- 
cafions  common  farmers  fummoned  to 
afiift  at  the  confutations,  the  defign  of 
which  was  my  information.  Nor  did 
I  neglect  opportunities  of  making  en- 
quiries of  the  cottagers,  and  of  exa- 
mining 


x  PREFACE. 

mining  into  their  fituation  and  way  of 
livinp* — ihe  information  I  procured  in 
this  line,  I  apprehend  to  be  of  confe- 
quence :  in  England  we  know  pretty 
well  the  ftate  of  the  poor,  but  their  cir- 
cumftances  in  other  countries  ought  to 
be  one  of  the  firft  objects  of  a  travel- 
ler's attention,  iince  fr  m  their  eafe  or 
oppreffion,  a  multitude  of  conclufions 
may  be  drawn  relative  to  government, 
wealth,  and  national  profp.-rity. 

That  the  agriculture  of  both  thefe 
iflands  is  of  the  higheft  importance,  no 
one  will  deny,  and  perhaps,  when  the 
prefent  ftate  of  Europe  is  well  conflder- 
ed,  it  will  in  a  political  light  be  deemed 
more  fo  than  ever  it  was  at  any  former 
period.  It  is  true  we  are  at  prefent  in 
a  war  with  France,  but  I  muft  own,  the 
period  appears  to  me  faft  approaching, 
when  all  the  weftern  part  of  Europe 
will  find  an  abfolute  neceflity  of  unit- 
ing in  the  cl  *feft  bands.  If  the  fcene 
which  has  annihilated  Dantzick,  was 
now  acting  at  Hamburgh  and  Amster- 
dam, 


PREFACE.         xi 

dam,  I  do  net  fee  where  the  power  is 
to  be  found,  to  prevent  or  revenge  it. 
The  confequence  of  France  has  been 
long  declining,  and  the  transfer  of  her 
exertions  from  the  land  to  the  fea  fer- 
vice,  may  be  fatal  to  the  liberties  of 
Europe.  If  ever  the  fatal  day  comes, 
when  that  exertion  is  to  be  made,  all 
her  neighbours  would  feel  it  their  com- 
mon intereft  to  fecond  and  fupport  her. 
Much  would  it  then  be  regretted,  that 
the  ftrength  and  refources  of  thofe 
powers  fhould  have  been  fo  exhaufted 
by  wars  among  themfelves,  as  to  be  dis- 
abled in  the  moment  when  mod  fig- 
nally  wanted.  Then  it  would  appear, 
that  France  fhould  have  directed  ail  her 
attention  to  her  army,  and  Britain  to 
her  navy,  as  the  beft  united  means  of 
refilling  what  Lord  Chefterfield  very 
juftly  terms,  "  new  devils,"  arifing  in 
Europe.  But  from  whatever  quarter 
danger  may  arife  to  Great  Britain,  it 
much  behoves  her,  while  other  powers 
are  rifing  fo  incredibly  in  force,  to  t?.ke 
every  means  that  providence   permits, 

to 


xii        PREFACE. 

to  fcrengthen  herfelf ;  and  that  the  moft 
fecure  and  folid  way  of  doing  this,  is 
by  carrying  all  the  arts  of  cultivation 
in  both  iflands,  to  the  higheft  pitch  of 
perfection  that  is  practical,  no  body  will 
I  apprehend  deny. 

That  too  much  national  attention 
cannot  be  given  to  agriculture,  never 
appeared  ib  ftrong  as  it  does  in  the  pre- 
fent  period.  The  legiflature  of  this 
kingdom  has  for  a  century  bent  all  its 
endeavours  to  promote  the  commercial 
Jyjlem.  The  ilatute  book  is  crowded 
with  laws  for  the  encouragement  of  ma- 
nufactures, commerce,  and  colonies,  and 
in  fome  inftances  at  the  expenfe  of  the 
improvement  ol  the  national  foil.  Yet 
in  that  period  only  one  great  agricul- 
tural meafure  was  embraced,  the  boun- 
ty on  the  export  of  corn,  frittered  down 
to  the  prefent  fyftem,  which  turns  out 
with  or  without,  but  certainly  by  the 
connivance  of  law,  to  be  a  conftant  im- 
port Jckemcy  in  order  to  reduce  the  prices 
of  the  earth's  products,  in   favour  of 

thofe 


PREFACE.        xiii 

thofe  clafTes  whofe  monopolizing  fpirit 
has  had  the  direct  t.ndency  to  beggar 
and  ruin  the  kingdom.  Whoever  eon- 
fiders  atentively  t~e  commercial  con  Audi 
of  Great  Britain,  will  not  think  there 
is  any  thing  paradoxical  in  this  aflertion. 

The  entire  adminiftration  of  the  co- 
1  nies  has  been  commercial.  It  has 
been  made  a  trader's  project,  and  the 
fpirit  of  monopoly  pervaded  every  ftep 
of  our  progress  in  planting  and  rearing 
thofe  fettlements.  They  were  govern- 
ed by  the  narrow  fpirit  of  a  counting 
houfe,  which  in  the  plantation  of  coun- 
tries formed  to  be  the  relidence  of  great 
nations,  neither  faw  nor  permitted  any 
thing  better  than  a  monopolized  mar- 
ket. It  was  this  fpirit  that  fhackled 
thofe  countries  in  fuch  commercial  fet- 
ters as  to  render  them  incapable  of  con- 
tributing to  the  neceffities  of  the  gene- 
ral government  of  the  empire.  Had  a 
more  liberal  policy  been  embraced,  (uch 
contributions  would  have  been  early  in- 
troduced, with  a  capability  (from  a  free 

com- 


xiv        PREFACE. 

commerce)  of  fupporting  them.  The 
commercial  government  gave  up  the 
advantage  of  all  contribution  for  the 
greater  profit  of  monopoly  :  it  was  evi- 
dent that  loth  could  not  be  had,  till 
thofe  countries  became  too  great  and 
powerful  to  be  icrced  into  new  and  un- 
juft  habits.  Nothing  therefore  can  be 
more  idle  than  to  fay  that  this  fet  of 
men,  or  the  other  adminiftration,  or 
that  gveat  miniftcr,  occaiioned  the 
American  war.  It  was  not  the  ftamp 
act,  nor  the  repeal  of  the  ftamp  act ;  it 
was  neither  Lord  Rockingham  nor  Lord 
North,  but  it  was  that  baleful  monopo- 
lizing fpirit  of  commerce  that  wiilied 
to  govern  great  nations,  on  the  maxims 
of  the  counter.  That  did  govern  them 
fo  ;  and  in  the  cafe  of  Ireland  and  the 
Indies  does  ft  ill  govern  them  fo.  Had 
not  the  trader's  lyfteni  been  embraced, 
A  merica  would,  in  confequence  of  tax- 
ation, have  been  long  ago  united  with 
Britain  ;  but  our  traders  knew  very  well 
that  a  free  commerce  would  follow  a 
union. 

Nor 


PREFACE.        xv 

Nor  is  it  only  in  the  lofs  of  vaft  ter- 
ritories that  we  ieel  the  direful  effects 
of  the  monopolizing  fpirit,  1  he 
greater!  part  of  the  national  d^bt  is 
owing  to  the  two  laft  wars,  which  coft 
us  one  hundred  millions  fterling,  and 
arofe  from  mercantile  caufes :  that  of 
1740  was  a  war  for  the  protection  of 
Englilli  fmugglers:  and  that  of  1756, 
fprung  from  an  apprehenfion  that  the 
French  would  divide  the  American 
market  with  our  traders:  the  prefent, 
which  may  be  as  expenlive  before  it  is 
finifhed  as  either  of  the  former,  was 
owing  to  a  determination  to  fecure  the 
market  we  had  gained.  But  all  the 
wars  are  for  markets  or  fmnggling,  or 
trade  or  manufacture.-  That  vaft  debt 
which  debilitates  the  kingdom,  thole 
taxes  we  pay  for  having  loft  rhirteen 
provinces  and  the  hazard  we  now  run 
of  loiing  or  ruining  Ireland,  are  all 
owing  to  the  former  predilection  of  our 
government  for  the  trad;ng  fyftem. 

I  fhould  go  much  beyond  the  line  of 
truth  to  declare,  that  trade  and  manu- 

iacture 


*vi        PREFACE. 

facture   are   necefTariiy   ruinous.     The 
very  contiary  is  my  opinion  ;  extenfive 
manufactures,  and  a  flourifliing  com- 
merce, are  the  very  beft  friends  of  agri- 
culture, as  I  have  endeavoured  to  fhew 
more  at  large  in  my  Political  Arithme- 
tic.    What  I  would  urge  here  is,  that 
trade    is    an   admirable   thing;    but   a 
trading  government  a   moft  pernicious 
cne.     Protect  and  encourage  merchants 
and  manufacturers  in  every  exertion  of 
their  induftry;  but  lifiien  not  to   them 
in   the   legiflature.      They   never   yet 
were  the  fathers  of  a  fcheme  that  had 
not  monopoly  for  its  principle.     It  has 
been  the  fatality  of  our  government  to 
attend  to  them  on  every  occafion.     We 
are,  at  this  moment,  in  the  full   ma- 
turity of  the  evils  which  a  legflature, 
influenced  by  traders,  can  bring  upon 
a  country.      Nor  can   1   without  aflo- 
nifhment  view  the  commercial  jealoufy 
that  has  arfen  in  Europe  in  the  iaft  50 
years.     Other  nations   have  caught  of 
u;  the  commercial  fptit.     They  have 
attributed  the  effects  of  the  nobleft  and 

moft 


PREFACE.        xvii 

mofr,  perfect  fyflem  of  freedom  the 
world  has  ever  feen,  to  the  trade  of  the 
country.  Deluded  mortals!  Give  your 
fubje&s  the  liberty  which  Engiifhmen 
enjoy,  and  trade  will  fpring  up  one 
among  the  many  luxuriant  branches  of 
that  wide  extended  tree.  Liberty, 
not  trade,  has  been  the  caufe  of  Eng- 
land's sreatnefs.  Commerce  and  all 
its  confequences  have  been  the  efjeEt^ 
not  the  caufe  of  our  happinefs.  France 
has,  with  the  fame  fort  of  folly,  over- 
looked the  fimple  and  obvious  advan- 
tage of  improving  her  noble  territory 
for  the  more  precarious  profits  of  trade  : 
and  what  are  the  confequences  ?  She 
too  has  hazarded  thofe  wars  for  com- 
merce, which  have  exhausted  her  re- 
fources,  mortgaged  her  revenues,  and 
debilitated  every  principle  of  her  na- 
tional ftrength. 

When  the  orefent  monopoly  (the 
true  characterise  of  the  commercial 
fyitem)  has  halt  beggared  Europe  with 
the  thirft  of  weal  eh  ;  and  that  nations 
have  grown  wifer  by  experience,  they 

b  will. 


xviii        PREFACE. 

will,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  found  their 
greatnefs  in  the  full  cultivation  of  their 
territories ;  the  wealth  refulting  from 
that  exertion,  will  remain  at  home,  and 
be  fecure  ;  nothing  in  that  progrefs 
will  kindle  the  jealoufy  of  neighbours 
— no  vile  monopolies— no  reftriclions 
—no  regulating  duties  are  wanting: 
perpetual  wars,  heavy  debts,  and  ruin- 
ous taxes,  will  not  be  neceflary  to  ex- 
tend and  promote  agriculture,  infepa- 
rable  as  they  have  been  from  commerce. 

To  a  philofophical  eye  the  prefent 
conduct  of  commercial  Europe  is  an 
inexplicable  enigma.  The  mercantile 
fyftem  of  England  having  grafpedatand 
pofTeiTed  the  monopoly  of  the  North 
American  market,  France,  in  the  trans- 
actions which  preceded  the  war  of  1 756, 
manifefted  the  plaineft  jealoufy  of  our 
power  in  North  America  :  the  moll  ill 
founded  jealoufy,  as  experience  has 
{hewn,  that  could  actuate  a  nation. 
The  two  countries  engaged  in  the  war 
upon  a  fubjecl  merely  commercial;  and 
it  coftj  between  them,  above  an  hun- 
dred 


PREFACE.         xix 

dred  millions  fterRiig,  the  cne  to  be 
driven  out  of  Canada,  and  the  other  to 
lofe  America  by  rebellion.  Is  it  pofii- 
ble  that  the  rulers  of  ihefe  two  king- 
doms, if  they  had  an  inclination  to  a- 
mufe  themfelves  with  expending  iuch  a 
fum.  had  fo  poor  a  genius  that  they 
could  not  devife  the  means  of  doing  it 
at  home,  in  the  encouragement  of  agri- 
culture and  arts;  in  inclofures,  naviga- 
tions, roads,  harbours,  the  cultivation 
of  waftes,  draining  marines,  raifmg  pa- 
laces? &c. 

In  the  Duke  de  Choifeui's  miniftry 
we  were  on  the  point  of  another  com- 
mercial war,  we  had  a  greater  trade  to 
India  than  France,  and  in  order  to  ba- 
lance it  that  kingdom  was  ready  to  ex- 
pend fifty  millions  more.  Then  Spain 
takes  commercial  umbrage,  at  our  fet- 
tling with  commercial  views  on  a  rock, 
the  great  produces  ot  which  are  feals 
and  penguins  ;  the  affair  could  not  coil: 
lefs  than  five  millions;  but  that  is  a  tri- 
fle in  the  affairs  of  trade — For  fee,  we 
are  now  engaged  in  a  frefh  career  of 
b  2  com- 


xx  PREFACE. 
commerce  with  America,  and  the  whole 
houfe  of  Bour-  on.  Upon  a  moderate 
computation,  France,  Spain,  and  Bri- 
tain, will  each  of  them  fpend  enough  ia 
it  to  improve  three  or  four  provinces 
to  the  higheft  pitch  of  cultivation ;  which 
inftead  of  flaughtering  three  or  four 
hundred  thoufand  men,  and  leaving 
thrice  that  number  of  widows  and  01- 
phans,  would  render  a  greater  number 
of  families  happy  for  life,  and  leave  a 
rich  and  increafing  legacy  of  eafe  and 
plenty  to  their  pofterity :  and  all  the 
{laughter,  ruin,  poverty  and  deftrucrion, 
that  is  thus  brought  on  the  human  fpe- 
cies,  is  for  the  lake  of  commerce. 

It  was  the  commercial  iyftem  that 
founded  thofe  colonies — commercial 
profits  reared  them — commercial  avarice 
monopolized  them —  and  commercial 
ignorance  now  wars  to  recover  the  pof- 
feffion  of  what  isnotintrinfically  worth 
the  powder  and  ball  that  are  fliot  away 
in  the  quarrel.  The  fame  baneful  com- 
mercial genius  influences  France  and 
Spain  to  exhauft  their  revenues,,  ruin 

their 


PREFACE.  xxi 

their  fubje&s,  and  ftagnate  every  branch 
of  domeftic  induftry,  for  diftant,  ideal, 
and  precarious  commercial  advantages. 

But  to  return — The  manufactures, 
commerce,  and  fifheries  of  Ireland,  are 
objects  of  much  importance  to  Great 
Britain,  and  as  the  information  1  pro- 
cured concerning  them,  was  chiefly  gain- 
ed on  the  fpot,  and  given  me  without 
thofe  intentions  of  deceiving,  which  are 
too  common,  when  fuch  particulars  are 
introduced  politically  to  the  world,  I 
believe  the  reader  will  not  be  forry  at 
my  having  given  them  a  place. 

The  general  view  of  the  kingdom  I 
have  given  from  the  whole  of  the  m- 
telligence,  will  I  flatter  myfelf,  throw 
Ireland  into  that  juft  light,  in  which 
fhe  has  not  hitheito  appeared.  The 
many  erroneous  ideas  concerning  the 
rental,  wealth,  and  confequence  of  that 
ifland,  with  which  every  book  is  filled 
that  treats  of  it,  will  be  here  explained. 
The  reader  will  find  the  progrds  of  na- 
tional profperity,  its  prefent  ilate,  and 

the 


xxii  PREFACE. 
the  vaft  field  of  improvement  which 
Ireland  will  continue,  until  it  comes  to 
be  every  thing  to  Britain  which  the 
warmeft  patriot  could  wifh.  For  fo 
happy  a  ftate  to  arrive,  nothing  is  want- 
ing but  this  country  to  change  her  po- 
licy, and  cherifh  that  induftry  fhe  has 
hitherto  feemed  fo  anxious  to  fhackle. 

After  having  travelled  through  the 
greateft  part  of  the  kingdom,  I  found, 
upon  fitting  down  to  give  an  account 
ot  thofe  circumftances,  not  immediately 
ariilng  from  the  hufbandry  of  the  coun- 
try, that  I  was  in  want  of  many  public 
accounts  of  trade,  manufactures,  taxes, 
&c.  not  to  be  procured  upon  a  journey, 
I  was  for  fome  time  in  correfpondence 
with  fome  friends  in  Dublin  to  gam 
thefe,  but  after  palling  near  a  twelve- 
month in  expectation  I  found  it  would 
be  impoffible  to  procure  the  necelTary 
papers  without  going  thither  ;  I  accord- 
ingly went  and  refided  nine  weeks  in 
that  city,  very  buf-ly  employed  in  exa- 
mining and  tranfcribing  public  records 
and  accounts,  which  enabled  me  to  give 

fuch 


PREFACE.         xxiii 

fuch  a  detail  of  thofe  fubjects,  as  has  not 
hitherto  been  laid  before  the  public.    I 
may  without  exaggeration  afTert,  that  all 
thefe  objects   for  want  of  induftry   in 
thofe  who  have  written  concerning  Ire- 
land, have  bven  treated   in  the  way  of 
guefs,  conjecture,   and  declamation,  to 
anfwer   particular  purpofes,  inftead  of 
any  detail  of  facts.     Part  of  thefe  en- 
quiries   may   be   uninterefting  to  thofe 
who  do  not  refide  in  the  country,  but  I 
am  neverthelefs  fo   much  convinced  of 
their  importance  to  England,  as  well  as 
to  Ireland,  that  I  have  determined  to  ex- 
plain them  as  fully  as  I  was  able,  tedious 
as  they  may  appear  to  thofe,  who  read 
rather  for  amufement,  than  information. 
Perhaps  there  would  be  no  impropriety 
in  prefixing    to  all  the  productions  I 
venture  before  the  public,  this  caution : 
I  have  been  reproached  for  being  tedious, 
but  I  profefs,  to  treat  that  fubje£t  which 
I  think  (vainly  perhaps)  I  underftand, 
in  fo  detailed  a  manner,  that  if  my  pieces 
were  not  unentertaining,  they  would  ve- 
ry indifferently  anfwer   the  end,  to  ac- 
complifli  which,  i  have  travelled,  prac- 
tifed  and  written.  Hui- 


xxiv      PREFACE. 

Hufbandry  is  an  art  that  has  hitherto 
owed  lefs  to  reafoning  than  i  believe 
any  other.  I  know  not  of  any  difco- 
veries.  or  a  fingle  beneficial  practice  that 
lias  clearly  flowed  f.omthis  fource.  But 
every  one  is  well  acquainted  with  many 
that  have  been  the  refult  of  experiment 
and  regiilered  oblervation.  There  is 
no  people  exifting  fo  backward  but  have 
ibme  good  practices  to  copy,  as  well  as 
errors  to  avoid-  To  defcribe  both  is  to 
give  a  chain  of  connected  ta&s  that 
mull:,  in  the  end,  prove  ufeful  to  fuch 
as  will  read  and  digeft  them  with  at- 
tention and  reflection  :  but  I  am  ready 
to  admit  that  this  is  a  ftudy  very  far 
from  amufing*.  The  repfifters  of  fuch 
journies,  as  I  have  employed  a  great 
deal  of  time  and  expenfe  in  making, 
muft  necefTarily  be  exceedingly  dull  to 
thofe  who  read  for  pleafure:  fo  disa- 
greeable, that  they  will  certainly  throw 
down  the  volume  with  as  muft  difguft 
as  they  would  tables  of  arithmetic. 
The  flattering  circumftance  of  a  fuc- 
eefsful  publication  is  not  thus  to  be  ex- 
pected. The  prefent  age  is  much  too 
*  idle 


PREFACE.       xxv 

idle  to  buy  books  th?.t  will  n6t  banifh. 
Venuye  from  a  {ingle  hour.  Succefs  de- 
pends on  amufement.  The  historical 
performances  of  this  age  and  nation, 
which  have  proved  fo  honourable  to 
their  authors,  would  have  met  with  a 
lefs  brilliant  fuccefs,  had  not  the  charms 
of  flile  rendered  them  as  amufive  as  a 
romance.  Their  extreme  popularity  is 
perhaps  built  on  rivalling,  not  only  the 
authors  that  had  before  treated  the  lame 
iubjecls,  but  Sir  Charles  Grandiion  and 
Julia.  That  this  obiervatiom  however, 
when  applied  to  books  of  agriculture  is 
juft,  will  appear  from  the  very  ill  fucceis 
met  with  by  authors  of  capital  merit, 
and  the  great  fales  that  have  attended 
the  moil  miferable  performances.  The 
merit  of  Mr.  Lille's  huibandry  has,  in 
many  years,  carried  it  but  into  the  ie- 
cond  edition.  Mr  Hitt's  treat  fe  on 
huibandry  has  not  been  re-printed,  and 
is  very  little  known,  yet  there  are  par- 
ticulars in  it  of  more  merit  than  half  a 
fcore  volumes  that  have  been  fuccefs  ful. 
Even  the  elegant  eflays  on  huibandry  of 
my  old  and  much  regretted  friend  Mr. 

Harte, 


xxvi        PREFACE. 

Harte,  have  not  been  re-printed.  Proofs 
to  which  many  more  might  be  added, 
that  the  public  reception  does  not  al- 
ways mark  the  merit  of  a  book. 

Any  real  utility  that  may  refult  from 
this  work  out  of  Ireland,  can  only  be 
from  thofe  who  determine  fteadily  to 
become  acquainted  with  all  the  facts 
they  can  procure,  in  order  to  compare, 
combine,  and  draw  conclufions  from 
them.  To  men  thus  fcientific,  too  ma- 
ny facts  can  never  be  publifhed  ;  and 
with  fuch,  I  flatter  myfelf,  I  fh.aH  be 
readily  pardoned  for  having  added  fo 
many  to  the  number.  Indeed  I  fome- 
times  fmile  in  reading  performances,  the 
authors  of  which  think  me  of  import- 
ance enough  to  do  me  the  honour  of 
abufing  for  whole  pages  together,  at 
the  very  time  that  they  make  extremely 
free  with  information  they  never  might 
have  known,  had  my  labours  been 
wrought  like  their  own,  at  a  fire  fide. 
But  while  I  am  happy  in  the  good  opi- 
nion, and  inftruckd  in  the  correipon- 
dence  of  fome  of  the  fir  ft  characters  in 

Europe 


PREFACE.        xkvu 

Europe — while  my  writings  will  ftand 
the  teft  with  fuch  men  as  a  Harte,  a 
Haller,  and  an  Arbuthnot,  I  am  per- 
fectly indifferent  to  the  ideas  ot  the 
Moores,  Shirleys,  MSrfhals,  and  Wim- 
peys  of  the  age. 

There  is  one  part  of  thefe  papers 
which  particularly  demand  an  apology. 
I  have  ventured  to  recommend  to  the 
gentlemen  of  Ireland  feveral  courfes  of 
hufbandry,  as  improvements  upon  what 
I  found  them  practifing,  and  have  given 
directions  how  they  fhould  be  perform- 
ed. This  is  going  a  little  out  of  my 
way;  for  it  is  that  fpecies  of  writing 
which  I  am  apt  to  condemn.  Inftruc- 
tions  in  this  fubjecl:  fhould,  more  than 
in  any  other,,  be  gathered  limply  from 
the  regifter  of  experiments  and  repeat- 
ed obfervations  :  but  having  been  re- 
queued by  many  gentlemen  on  the 
journey  to  do  it,  I  have  lubmitted  to 
their  opinion,  rather  in  contradiction  to 
mv  own.  I  have  reflected  attentively 
on  the  circumftances  or  Ireland  before 
I  drew  up  thefe  recommendations ;  and 

I  believe,' 


xxviii      PREFACE 

I  believe,  that  thofe  who  are  befl:  ac- 
quainted with  the  kingdom,  will  not 
think  what  I  have  propofed  entirely  in- 
applicable. 

Having  given  fuch  explanations  of 
the  defign  of  this  work  as  appeared 
neceiTary,  there  only  remains  to  infcrt 
the  names  of  tho'e  who  were  pleafed  to 
favour  me  with  their  afliftance  in  exe- 
cuting it. 

To  the  following  perfons  only  I  was 
indebted  for  recommendations  Co  Ire- 
land : 

The  Earl  of  Shelburne.  John  Aibmhnor,  Eq; 

1  he  Dowager  Lady  Mid-  Governor  Pownal. 

cile^on.  1  .ord  Kenmare. 

Mrs.  Vefey.  John  Baker  Holroyd,  Efq; 

Edmund  Bnrke,  Efq^  Uavid  Barclay,  Efqj 
Samuel  Whitbread,   Efq; 

Such  were  the  fmall  number  of  per- 
fons  in  England,  who,  before  I  went, 
took  the  trouble  to  intereft  themfelves 
in  the  undertaking:.  As  to  the  o-reat 
body  of  abfentees,  knowing  that  there 
was  not  one  but  could  contribute  to  my 
being  well  informed,   by  cards  to  their 

ents, 


PREF  AC  E.  xxlx 
agents,  I  took  the  moft  effectual  means 
of  letting  them  know  my  intention;  but 
except  the  few  juft  named,  the  defign 
was  not  happy  enough  to  appear  in 
fuch  a  light,  as  to  induce  them  to  con- 
tribute to  it.  Indeed  there  are  too 
many  poiTelTors  of  great  eftates  in  Ire- 
land, who  wifh  to  know  nothing  more 
of  it  than  the  remittance  of  their  rents, 

The  circumftance  was  rather  dis- 
couraging, and  I  began  to  apprehend 
that  I  might  want  information  ;  but  the 
reception  I  met  at  Dublin  immediately 
removed  it;  and  the  following  lift  of 
thofe  who  were  fo  obliging  as  to  take 
every  means  of  having  me  perfectly 
well  informed,  will  fhew  that  I  was  not 
difappointed. 

The  Earl   of    Harcourt,  DukeofLeinfter,G?/?/?/o» 

Lord  Lieutenant Jones,  Elq-   Doi- 

Earlof  Chailemont,  Dub-         lefton 

Un  Rt.   Hon.  H.  L.  Rowley, 

Mr.  Machpnarland,  Lut-         Summer  Hill 

trell*s  Town  Earl  of  Mornington 

Rt.  Hon.ThomasConolly  Rt  lion. William  Burton, 
Clements,    Efq;         Slaine  Caftle 

ibbjl'jv. 

Earl 


Killado  n  Jcb,  Erq'.  Shiine 

Colonel  Marie]  ridgt     Mr.G&ud9Gib&/teton 


PREFACE. 


Earl  of  Bedttve,  Hear df art 
Lord  Longford,  Packen- 

ham 
Captain  Johnfton 
Rev.  Dean  Coote,  Sbaen 

Caflle 

Brown,  Efq; 

Mr.  Butler,  near  Carlow 
. —  Mercer,  Efq* 

Laughlin-bridcc 
Gervas  Parker  Bum,  Eftfc 

Kilfaine 
Colonel  Nun 
Earl  of  Courtovvn 
Lieut.  General  Cunning- 

hame,  Mount  Kennedy 
Baron    Hamilton,     Ball- 

hriggen 
Lord  Chief  Baron  Forfter, 

Cullen 
Lord  Gosfort,  Marht-hiU 
His  Grace  the  Lord  Pri- 
mate, Armagh 
Mr.    Writ    Macgcough, 

ditto 
Bifhop  of  Clonfcrt 
Maxwell  Clofe,  Efq; 

• Richard fon,  Efq; 

Lzft\&>E(q+Gfoflotigb 

Workman,  Efq-, 

Mabon 
Right  Hon.  Wm.  Brown- 

lovv,  Lurgan 
— Warren,    fVar- 

rcnftown 
Mr.  Clibborn,  ditto 
The   Bifhop    of    Down, 

Lijlmrne 
John  Alexander,  Efq;  Bel* 

fafi 


■ Portis,  Efq;  ditto 

Arthur  Buntin,  Efq;  ditto 
Mr.  Holmes,  ditto 
Dr.  Hailiday,  ditto 
Patrick  Savage,  Efq;  Por- 
ta Ferry 
— Ainfworth,  Efq; 

Sir  am  ford 
John  O'Neal,  Efq;  Shane 

Cajile 
James  Leflie,  Efq;  Lejlie 

Hill 
Rev.  Mr.  Leflie 
Right  Hon.  Richard  Jack- 

fon,  Coleraine 
Roberi   Alexander,  Efq; 

Deny 
Rev.  Mr.  Bernard 
Rev.  Mr.  Golding,  Clon- 

kigb 
Alexander  Montgomery, 

Efq;  Mount  Charles 
Thomas  Nefbit,  Efq; 
Sir  James  Caldwell,  Bart. 

Cajile  Caldwell 
TheEarlofRofs,  Belkifle 
Lord    Vifc.     Innilkilling, 

Florence  Court 
Earl  of  Earnham,/w«/wtf 
W.  G.  Newcomen,  Efq; 

Ballyclougb 
Thomas     Mahon,    Efq; 

Strokeflown 
The  Bifhop   of    Elphin, 

Elfhin 
Bifhop  of  Kilmore 
The  Hon.  Thomas  Fitz- 

maurice,  Bally  moat 
The  Right  Hon.  Jofhua 

Cooper,  Me  era 

Lewis 


PREFACE,     xxxi 


Lewis  Irvine,   Efq;  Tan~ 
revo 

Brown,  Efq;  Sort- 


land 
Rt.  Hon.  Thomas  King, 

Bally  n  a 
Bifliop  of  Killala,  #///*/* 

Hutchinfon,Efq;  do. 

The   Earl   of  Altamont, 

IVeftport 
Mr.  Lindfay,  Hollymount 
His  Grace  the  Arehbifhop 

of  Tuam,  Tuam 
Robert  French  Efq;  Mo- 
nro a 
Mr.  Andrew  Trench,  Gal- 

way 
Frederic    Trench,    Efq; 

Woodlawn 
Robert     Gregory,    Efq; 

Kiltartan 
Sir  Lucius  O'Brien,  Bart. 

Drummolavd 
Mr.  Robert  Fitzgerald 
Mr.  Singleton 
Mr.  Thomas  Marks,  Li- 
merick 
Richard  Aid  worth,  Efq; 

sinnfzrove 
Lord  Donneraile,  Donne- 

Taiie 
Denham    Jephfon,    Efq; 

Mallow 
Dunham    Jephfon,     jun. 

F.fq-,  ditto 
Robert     Gordon,     Efq; 

Newgrove 
St.    John  JefFeryes,  Efq; 

Blarney  Caftle 


Dominick    Trent,     Efq; 
Dunkettle 

The  Earl    of    Shannon, 
Cajlle  Martyr 

Robert   Longficld,    Efq; 
Caftle  Mary 

Earl   of  Inchiquin,   Eof- 
tcllan 

Rev.  the  Dean  of  Corke, 
Corke 

Rev.  Archdeacon  Oliver 

Sir  John  Croulthurft,  Bart, 

■ Herbert,  Efq;  Mu- 

crus 

Arthur  Blennerhaffet,  Efq; 
Arbella 

Earl  of  Glandore,  Ardfert 

Lord  Crofbie,  ditto 

Robert   Fitzgerald,  Efq; 
Woodford 

Edward  Leflie,  Efq;  Tar- 
bat 

Mrs.  Quin,  Adair 

Right  Hon.  Silver  Oliver, 
Caftle  Oliver 

Earl  of  Clanwilliarn 

• Macarthy,  jun. 

Efq;  Spring  Hoiife 

Mr.  Allen 

Lord  de  Montalt,  Dun- 
drum 

Right  Hon.  Sir  Wm.  Of- 
borne,  Bart.   Newtown 

Moore,  Efq;  Mark- 
field 

Earl  of  Tyrone,  Curragb- 
moor 

Cornelius    Bolton,    Efq; 
Ballycavern 

Cornelius 


xxxii     PREFACE. 

Cornel i us  Bolton,  jun.  Efq*      Peter  Holmes,  Etc\;  John/*- 

ditto  town 

Richard  Nevill,  Efq;  Fur-     Michael  Head,  Efq;  Berry 

nefs  Rev.  Mr.  Uoyd,  Cullen 

John  Lloyd,  Efq;   Chjicr     Lord  Vile.  Kngfborough, 

Mitcbelfiown 

Such  are  the  contributors  to  this 
work.  It  is  with  the  umoft  pleafure 
I  reflect  on  the  liberal,  polite  and 
friendly  manner  in  which  I  was  receiv- 
ed by  iuch  a  number  of  perrons,  among 
whom  are  many  of  the  mod  diftin- 
guifhed  characters  in  Ireland— -Charac- 
ters that  would  reflect  a  luftre  upon  any 
nation. 

The  mod  carelefs  eye  will  difcern  at 
once  the  great  advantages,  which  the 
uncommon,  but  polite  hofpitality  of 
the  nation,  united  with  an  eagernefs  to 
do  whatever  had  the  mod:  diftant  ap- 
pearance of  being  ierviceable  to  their 
country,  gave  me  in  defcribing  it.  If, 
with  all  thefe  advantages,  Ireland  is  not 
in  future  much  better  known  than  ever 
fhe  was  before,  the  fault  is  entirely 
mine,  and  I  have  little  to  plead  in  ex- 
tenuation of  it. 

A    TOUR, 


A 


TOUR,       &c. 


JUNE  19th,  1776,  arrived  at  Holyhead, 
after  an  inftruttive  journey  through  a 
part  of  England  aid  Wales  I  had  not  {cen. 
before.  Found  the  packet,  the  Claremont, 
captain  Taylor,  would  fail  very  foon.  After 
a  tedious  paffage  of  twenty-two  hours,  land- 
ed on  the  20th,  in  the  morning,  at  Dunleary, 
four  miles  from  Dublin,  a  city  which  much 
exceeded  my  expectation  j  the  public  build- 
ings are  magnificent,  very  many  of  the  ftreets 
regularly  laid  out,  and  exceedingly  well  built. 
The  front  of  the  parliament-houie  is  grand ; 
though  not  fo  light  as  a  more  open  finiih- 
ing  of  the  roof  would  have  made  it.  The 
apartments  are  fpacious,  elegant,  and  con- 
venient, much  beyond  that  heap  of  con- 
fufion  at  Weftminfter,  fo  inferior  to  the  mag- 
nificence to  be  looked  for  in  the  feat  of 
empire.  I  was  fo  fortunate  as  to  arrive  juft 
in  time  to  fee  Lord  Harcourt,  with  the  ufual 
Vol.  I.  B  ceremonies, 


ft  DUBLIN. 

ceremonies,  prorogue  the  parliament.  Tri- 
nity college  is  a  beautiful  building  and  a 
numerous  fociety  ;  the  library  is  a  very  fine 
room,  and  well  filled.  The  new  exchange 
will  be  another  edifice  to  do  honour  to  Ire- 
land ;  it  is  elegant,  cofl  40,000 1.  but  de- 
ferves  a  better  fituation.  From  every  thing 
I  faw,  I  was  ftruck  with  all  thofe  appear- 
ances of  wealth  which  the  capital  of  a  thriv- 
ing community  may  be  fuppofed  to  exhibit. 
Happy  if  I  find  through  the  country  in  dif- 
fufed  profperity  the  right  fource  of  this 
fplendor!  The  common  computation  of  in- 
habitants 200,000,  but  I  fliould  fuppofe  ex- 
aggerated. Others  guefTed  the  number  140, 
or  150,000. 

June  21ft,  introduced  by  Colonel  Burton 
to  the  Lord  Lieutenant,  who  was  pleafed  to 
enter  into  converfation  with  me  on  my  in- 
tended journey,  made  many  remarks  on  the 
agriculture  of  feveral  Irifh  counties,  and 
fhewed  himfelf  to  be  an  excellent  farmer, 
particularly  in  draining.  Viewed  the  Duke 
of  Leinfter's  houfe,  which  is  a  very  large 
ftone  edifice,  the  front  fimple  but  elegant, 
the  pediment  light,  there  are  feveral  good 
rooms ;  but  a  circumflance  unrivaled  is  the 
court,  which  is  fpacious  and  magnificent,  the 
opening  behind  the  houfe  is  alfo  beautiful. 
In  the  evening  to  the  Rotunda,  a  circular 
room,  90  feet  diameter,  an  imitation  of  Ra- 
nelagh,  provided  with  a  band  of  mufick. 

The 


D    U     B     L     I     N. 

The  barracks  are  a  vaft  building,  railed  in 
a  plain  ftile,  of  many  divifions,  the  prin- 
cipal front  is  of  an  immenfe  length.  They 
contain  every  convenience  for  ten  regi- 
ments. 

June  23d.  Lord  Charlemont's  houfe  in 
Dublin,  is  equally  elegant  and  convenient, 
the  apartments  large,  handfome,  and  well 
difpofed,  containing  fome  good  pictures,  par- 
ticularly one  by  Rembrandt,  of  Judas  throw- 
ing the  money  on  the  floor,  with  a  ftrong 
expreflion  of  guilt  and  remcrfe ;  the  whole 
group  fine.  In  the  lame  room  is  a  portrait: 
of  Caefar  Borgia  by  Titian.  The  library  is  a 
moil  elegant  apartment,  of  about  40  by  30, 
and  of  fuch  a  height,  as  to  form  a  pleating 
proportion,  the  light  is  well  managed,  com- 
ing in  from  the  cove  of  the  ceiling,  and  has 
an  exceeding  good  efFecl ;  at  one  end  is  a 
pretty  anti-room,  with  a  fine  copy  of  the 
Venus  de  Medicis,  and  at  the  other,  two 
fmall  rooms,  one  a  cabinet  of  pictures,  and 
antiquities,  the  other  medals.  In  the  col- 
lection alfo  of  Robert  Fitzgerald,  Efq;  in 
Merrion  Square,  are  feveral  pieces  which 
very  well  deferve  a  traveller's  attention. — It 
was  the  beft  I  law  in  Dublin.  Before  I  quit 
that  city,  I  obferve,  on  the  houfes  in  general, 
that  what  they  call  their  two-roomed  ones, 
are  good  and  convenient.  Mr.  Latouche's^ 
in  Stephen's-Green,  I  was  fhewh  as  a  model 
of  this  fort,  and  I  found  it  well  contrived, 
and  finilhed  elegantly.     Drove  to  Lord  C. 

B  2  lemont's 


4  DUBLIN. 

iemont's  villa  at  Marino,  near  the  city,  where 
his    Lordfhip    has    formed    a   pleafing   lawn, 
margined  in  the  higher  part  by  a  well-planted 
thriving  fhrubbery,  and  on  a  riling  ground  a 
banqueting    room,    which    ranks    very   high 
among  the  mod  beautiful  edifices  I  have  any 
where  feen;   it  has  much  elegance,  lightnefs, 
and  efTecl,   and  commands   a   fine  profpecl ; 
the   fifing  ground  on  which  it  ftands  Hopes 
off  to  an  agreeable  accompanyment  of  wood, 
beyond  which,  on   one  fide,    is  Dublin  har- 
-bour,   which   here   has   the  appearance  of  a 
noble   river  crowded    with  fhips   moving   to 
and  from   the   capital.     On  the  other  fide  is 
a  fhore    fpotted  w7ith    white    buildings,   and 
beyond   it   the  hills  of  Wicklow,  prefenting 
an    outline    extremely    various.      The    other 
part  of  the  view  (it  would  be  more  perfect 
if  the  city  was  planted  out)  is  varied,  in  fome 
places   nothing  but    wood,  in   others,  breaks 
of  profpect.     The  lawn,  which   is  extenfive, 
is   new  grafs,  and  appears   to  be  excellently 
laid  down,  the  herbage  a  fine  crop  of  white 
clover,   (trifolium   repens),    trefoile,    rib-grafs,  • 
(plantage  lanceolata),  and  other  good   plants. 
Returned  to  Dublin  and  made  inquiries  into 
other   points,   the    prices   of  provisions,   &c. 
(for  which  fee  the   tables  at  the  end  of  the 
book  .     The  expenfes  of  a  family  in  propor- 
tion to  thofe  of  London  are,  as  5  to  8. 

Having  the  vear  following  lived  more  than 
two  months  in  Dublin,  I  am  able  to  fpeak 
to  a  few  points,  which,  as  a  mere  traveller  I 

could 


DUBLIN.  5 

could  not   have    done.      The    information   I 
before  received  of  the  prices  of  living  is  cor- 
rect.    Fifh  and  poultry  are  plentiful  and  very 
-cheap.      Good    lodgings    almoft    as    dear    as 
they   are  in  London  ;  though  we  were  well 
accommodated  kdirt  excepted  i  for  two  guineas 
and  an  half  a  week.     All  the  lower  ranks  in 
this  city  have  no  idea  of  Englifh  cleanlinefs, 
either    in    apartments,    perfons,    or   cookery. 
There  is  a  very  good   fociety  in  Dublin  in  a 
parliament  winter — a  great  round  of  dinners, 
and   parties  -,   and    balls,    and   fuppers    every 
night  in  the  week,  fome   of  which   are  very 
elegant,    but  you  almolt    every  where   meet 
a  company  much  too  numerous  for  the  fize 
of  the   apartments.     They   have   two  afTem- 
blies  on    the    plan    of  thofc  of  London,    in 
Fifh.ambie-ft.reet,  and    at  the  Rotunda ;    and 
two  gentlemens  clubs,  Anthry's  and  Daly's, 
very  well  regulated;  I   heard  fome  anecdotes 
of  deep  play  at  the  latter,  though  never  to 
the    excefs   common    at    London.       An     ill- 
judged  and  unfuccefsful    attempt   was   made 
to  erlablifh  the  Italian  Opera,  which  exifted 
but  with  fcarcely  any  life  for  this  one  winter; 
of  courfe  they   could   rife   no  higher  than  a 
comic  one.     La  buona  Figliuola,  la  Frafca- 
tana,    and  il  Gelofo    in    Cimento,    were   re- 
peatedly performed,  or  rather  murdered,  ex- 
cept  the   parts  of  Seftini.     The   houfe    was 
generally  empty  and  miferably  cold.    So  much 
knowledge  of  the  ltate  of  a  country  is  gamed 
by  hearing  the  debates  cf  a   parliament,  that 
I  often   frequented  the  gallery  of  the  houfe 

of 


6  DUBLIN. 

of  commons.  Since  Mr.  Flood  has  been 
iilenced  with  the  vice-treafurerfhip  of  Ire- 
land, Mr.  Daly,  Mr.  Grattan,  Sir  William 
Ofborne,  and  the  prime  ferjeant  Burgh,  are 
reckoned  high  among  the  Irifh  orators.  I 
heard  many  very  eloquent  fpeeches,  but  I 
cannot  fay  they  fbuck  me  like  the  exertion 
of  the  abilities  of  Irifhmen  in  the  Englifh 
houfe  of  commons,  owing  perhaps  to  the 
reflection  both  on  the  fpeaker  and  auditor, 
that  the  attorney  general  of  England,  with 
a  dafh  of  his  pen,  can  reverfe,  alter,  or  en- 
tirely do  away  the  matured  refult  of  all  the 
eloquence,  and  all  the  abilities  of  this  whole 
affembly.  Before  I  conclude  with  Dublin  I 
fhall  only  remark,  that  walking  in  the  ftreets 
there,  from  the  narrow  nefs  and  populoufnefs 
of  the  principal  thoroughfares,  as  well  as 
from  the  dirt  and  wretchednefs  of  the  ca- 
naille, is  a  moft  uneafy  and  difgufting  ex- 
ercife. 

June  24th,  left  Dublin  and  paffed  through 
the  Phcenix-park,  a  very  pleating  ground,  at 
the  bottom  of  which,  to  the  left,  the  LifTey 
forms  a  variety  of  landfcapes :  this  is  the 
moft  beautiful  environ  of  Dublin.  Take  the 
road  to  Luttrell's  town  through  a  various 
fcenery  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  That 
domain  is  a  confiderable  one  in  extent,  be- 
ing above  400  acres  within  the  wall,  Irifh 
meafure;  in  the  front  of  the  houfe  is  a  fine 
lawn  bounded  by  rich  woods,  through  which 
are  many  ridings,  four  miles  in  extent.    From 

the 


DUBLIN.  7 

the  road  towards  the  houfe,  they  lead  through 
a  very  line  glen,  by  the  fide  of  a  ftream  fall- 
ing on  a  rocky  bed,  through  the  dark  woods, 
with  great  variety  on  the  fides  of  fteep  Hopes, 
at  the  bottom  of  which  the  LifFey  is  either 
heard  or  feen  indifiinctly  ;  thefe  woods  are  of 
great  extent,  and  fo  near  the  capital,  form  a 
retirement  exceedingly  beautiful.  Lord  Irn- 
ham  and  Colonel  Luttrel  have  brought  in 
the  aliiftance  of  agriculture  to  add  to  the 
beauties  of  the  place,  they  have  kept  a  part 
of  the  lands  in  cultivation  in  order  to  lay 
them  down  the  better  to  grafs  ;  1 50  acres 
have  been  done,  and  above  200  acres  mofl 
effectually  drained  in  the  covered  manner 
filled  with  Hones.  Thefe  works  are  well 
executed.  The  drains  are  alfo  made  under 
the  roads  in  all  wet  places,  with  lateral  fhort 
ones  to  take  off  the  water  inftead  of  leaving 
it,  as  is  common,  to  foak  againft  the  caufe- 
way,  which  is  an  excellent  method.  Great 
nfe  has  been  made  of  lime-ftone  gravel  in 
the  improvements,  the  efTecl  of  which  is  fo 
confiderable,  that  in  feveral  fpots  where  it 
was  laid  on  10  years  ago,  the  fuperiority  of 
the  grafs  is  now  fimilar  to  what  one  would 
expect  from  a  frefn  dunging. 

Mr.  Macfarian  the  Reward  has  at  fome 
di fiance  from  the  grounds  a  farm  which  he 
Is  bringing  into  high  order.  Kis  ditches  are 
large,  deep,  and  well  cut,  and  he  lias  made 
many  drains.  Lime  he  has  ufed  much,  and 
experimentally   againft    fpots    unlimed,    and 

fou  nd 


8  DUBLIN. 

found  the  benefit  very  great ;  the  foil,  a 
flrong,  wet,  ftoney  loam  or  lime  flone.  He 
lays  1 60  barrels  an  acre,  at  the  expenfe  of 
feven  pence  a  barrel,  and  finds  that  it  will 
laft  as  long  as  the  gravel.  For  meadow 
lands,  he  prefers  it  mixed  with  earth,  but 
on  tillage  gravel.  Soot  he  buys  at  Dublin 
for  fowing  over  the  wheat  in  April  to  kill 
the  red  worm,  for  which  it  anfwers,  and  alfo 
improves  the  crop.  Another  circumftance  in 
which  he  differs  from  the  farmers,  is  cutting 
ftraw  into  chaff,  and  alfo  in  beginning  to 
plough  his  fallows  in  autumn.  He  much 
prefers  ploughing  with  oxen  to  horfes.  The 
following  particulars  he  gave  me  of  the  ge- 
neral flate  of  hufbandry  in  the  county  of 
Dublin:  farms  about  100 1.  a  year,  more 
above  than  under,  fome  to  300 1.  a  year. 
The  foil  on  the  furface  a  ftoney  yellow  clay, 
18  inches  deep  on  lime-ftone  gravel,  with 
fome  exceptions  of  flate-ilone,  rents  about 
1 1.  us,  6d:  from  10s.  6d.  td  3I.  3s. 
courfes  moft  general, 

1.  Fallow. 

2.  Wheat.     Sow   1  barrel,  and  get  on   an 

average  8  barrels. 

3.  Oats.     Sow   2   barrels,  get  from    12  to 

20. 
Sometimes  1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats. 
4.  Clover.  5.  Wheat.  6.  Oats.  They  plough 
four  times  for  wheat,  on  clover  but  once, 
feed  their  clover  the  year  through.  No  fain- 
foine. 

Many 


DUBLIN.  0 

Many   potatoes    in    the   ridgeway    7  feet 
broad,  and  the  furrows  31.      Cut    generally 
18  to   24  inches  deep,  in  order  to  throw   up 
fome    lime- (tone    eravel  :    always    dung    for 
them  320  one  horfe  loads  to  an  acre  at  about 
5  or  6  to  a  ton,  are   fpread  over  the  7  feet. 
Lay  the  fets  upon  the  dung,  dig.  a  fpit  and 
fhovel  it  i  then  dig  another  fpit,  and  another 
{hovelling,  the  fetts  12  inches  afunder ;  from 
4  to    5    barrels    plant    an    acre.     Weed,  but 
no  hoeing;  take  them   up    with    the    fpade, 
and  the  crop  from   60  to  70  barrels  :  all  are 
planted  for  home-ufe,  but  they  give  their  pigs 
the  fmall  ones,  boiled ,  and  they    will  fatten 
them  to  be  fine  bacon,  but  give  fome  butter- 
milk,   and  a   week  or  two    before  they  are 
filled  fome  offal  corn.     For  fowls,  boil  them 
to  a  maih,  and  mix  with  butter-milk,  which 
fattens  them  exceedingly  well.     The  price  of 
potatoes   on    an  average   20  d.   per  cwt.  the 
moft  productive  forts  are   the  white  kidney, 
and  the   white  Munfter.     Lime-ftone  gravel 
the  general  manure  of  the  country  5  they  lay 
3   or  400,  one  horfe-cart  loads  per  acre ;  it 
will  laft  from   1  5  to   20   years,  and  is  of  the 
greater!  benefit ;  it  appears  immediately  :  the 
expenfe    ufually     1  I.     1  1  s.     6  d.    per    acre. 
Spread  it  on  the  fallow,  after  the  firft  plow- 
ing.    They  go  much  to  Dublin  for  fullage  of 
the  ftreets  to  lay  on  their  hay  grounds. 

Good  grafs-land  letts  at  40  s.  an  acre ;  five 
miles  round  Dublin  from  40  s.  to  10 1.  on  an 
average  about  3 1.  8  s.     Mow  moft  of  it  for 

hay; 


io  DUBLIN. 

hay  ;  a  good  crop  20  load  at  4cwt.  an  acre 
round  Dublin;  through  the  county  12  load 
an  acre.     Many  dairies  kept  for  letting  from 

5  1.  15s.  to  61.  c;  s.  per  cow;  the  dairyman 
iinds  labour,  but  has  horfes  enough  kept  him 
to  draw  the  milk  to  Dublin. 

On  an  average  a  cow  will  require,  for  her 
fummer  and  winter  food,  an  acre  and  an  half, 

but  not  of  the  beft  grafs. Of  that  an  acre 

would  do. The  breed  the  old  Irifh  ;  the 

Englifh  cows  do  not  give  fo  much  milk, 
from  4  to  6  lb.  of  butter  a  cow  the  produce 
per  week  :  the  butter -milk  fells  from   4  s.   to 

6  s.  per  barrel.  A  good  cow  fhould  give  8 
quarts  a  day,  if  lefs  the  cowman  rejects  her. 
The  winter  food  hay.  .Very few  fwine  kept, 
except  by  cottagers.  Sheep  they  buy  in  June 
or  July,  and  fell  them  from  September  until 
March  ;  buy  in  wethers  three  years  old,  at 
20  s.  and  fell  them  out  at  1 1.  115.  6d.  but 
give  them  hay.  Plough  with  oxen  four  in  a 
plough;  but  in  goring,  or  crofs --plowing,  fix, 
and  do  half  an  acre  a  day.  To  ieo  acres 
arable  there  muft  be  fix  bullocks  and  eight 
horfes. 

Plough  nine  inches  deep  at  goring  j  price 
of  ploughing,  fowing,  and  harrowing,  16  s. 
to  20  s.  an  acre.  Lav  their  fields  in  4  foot 
lands.  Keeping  horfes,  9 1.  a  year  each. 
No  cutting  of  ftraw  into  chaff  among  the 
common  farmers:  the  plough  oxen  they  work 
on  ftraw.     They  have  more  horfes  than  oxen  ; 

put 


DUBLIN.  ii 

put  them  to  work  at  three  years  old,  keep 
them  at  it  till  nine,  then  fatten  them.  They 
break  their  flubbles  in  May  or  June,  In 
hireing  and  flocking  firms,  they  will,  with 
80  1.  take  as  many  acres,  dividing  it  as  follow, 
on  80  acres. 


I     '•     ' 

£• 

/. 

J. 

6  Horfes  at 

3    3 

- 

18 

18 

0 

4  Oxen 

3    0 

- 

12 

0 

0 

4  Cows 

2  10 

- 

10 

0 

0 

2  Pigs 

18 

- 

1 

16 

0 

4  Irifh  cars 

1     7 

- 

t 

8 

0 

2  Ploughs 

- 

+ 

1 

1 

0 

2  Harrows 

- 

- 

0 

16 

0 

Harnefs 

- 

- 

4 

4 

0 

Sundries 

'■ 

- 

5 

0 

0 

Furniture 

. 

- 

s 

0 

0 

Houfe-keeping 

the  firft  year 

T 

6 

0 

0 

1  Man  4 1.  and  1  boy,  2 1.  wages 

6 

0 

0 

1  Maid 

- 

- 

1 

10 

0 

Seed  13  acres, 
Oats  13  acres 

wheat  20  s.-} 
-      16s.) 

- 

23 

8 

0 

£ 

IOI 

1 

0 

For 


12  DUBLIN. 

For  part  of  which  he  will  run  in  debt.  Land 
fells  in  general,  through  the  county,  at  22 
years  purchafe.  Till  within  three  years  it 
rofe  much,  from  1762  to  1772  -,  fince  that  it 
has  rather  fallen.  Tythes  none  taken  in  kind, 
compounded  by  the  acre.  Wheat  and  barley 
5s.  6d.  Oats  2s.  yd.  near  Dublin  5s.  or  6s. 
Moll  of  the  people  drink  tea,  and  confume 
plenty  of  whifky  and  tobacco.  Leafes  41  or 
61  years ;  many  on  lives,  and  alfo  renewable 
for  ever. 

Rent  of  cottages  26s.  to  30s.  with  a  pota- 
toe  garden.  No  emigrations.  The  religion 
in  general  catholic.  Labour  through  the  year 
iod.  a  day,  about  Dublin  is.  A  ditch  of  6 
feet  wide  5  feet  deep  perpendicular ,  and  2 1  at 
bottom  earth  all  on  one  fide  2s.  6d.  a  perch. 
Threfhing  and  cleaning  wheat  od.  per  barrel, 
barley  6di.     Oats  4di. 


Provisions. 

Bread  iolb.  of  14  oz.  for  i2d. 

Bacon  66. 

Butter-milk  id  1.    a  quart. 

New  milk  2d  a  quart.     Potatoes  is.  6d.  per  cwt. 

Candles  5c!  i.  per  lb.     Soap  6d.     Firing  all  ftolen. 


Build- 


DUBLIN.  13 

BUILDIN    G. 

Iriili  flate  15s.  per  1000.     Englifh  20s. 

Oak  timber  rather  fallen  in  price  in  10  years. 

Elm  is.  4<i.  Beech  is.  Soft  wood  8d. 
jFirs  at  60  years  growth,  1  ton  to  i\  of  tim- 
ber, and  worth  2L  28.  Walling  is.  a  perch, 
for  labour  of  7  feet  high  and  18  inch  thick. 
Building  a  cottage  3I.  ditto  a  farm-houfe,  and 
all  offices  for  80  acres,  20I. 

Leaving  Luttrel's  town,  I  went  to  St.  Wol- 
{tans,  which  Lord  Harcourt  had  been  fo  ob- 
liging as  to  deiire  I  would  make  my  quarters, 
from  whence  to  view  to  the  right  or  left. 

June  25th,  to  Mr.  Clements,  at  Killadoon, 
who  has  lately  built  an  excellent  houfe,  and 
planted  much  about  it,  with  the  fatisfaction 
of  finding  that  all  his  trees  thrive  well;  I  re- 
marked the  beech  and  larch  feemed  to  get  be- 
yond the  reft.  He  is  alfo  a  good  farmer. 
Cabbages  he  has  repeatedly  tried,  and  ufed 
them  generally  for  fattening  fheep,  and  finds 
them  much  better  for  the  purpole  than  tur- 
nips. 

Potatoes  he  cultivates  largely,  not  only  for 
family  ufe,  but  alfo  for  fattening  fwme  ; 
boils  them,  and  they  fat  exceedingly  well, 
without  any  mixture  of  meal,  both  porkers 
and  for  bacon,  giving  them  oats  for  three 
weeks  at  laft. 

He 


14  D    U     B    L     I     N. 

He  has  been  very  attentive  to  bring  his 
farm  into  neat  order  refpecling  fences,  throw- 
ing down  and  levelling  old  banks,  making 
new  ditches,  double  ones  fix  feet  wide  and 
five  deep,  w7ith  a  laige  bank  between  for 
planting,  more  effecluall-  than  ever  I  faw  in 
England :  alfo  in  hollow  drains  his  wet  lands. 

Remarking  in  one  of  his  fields  under  oats 
one  part,  about  ar  acre  incomparably  beyond 
the  reft  of  the  field,  I  enquired  into  the  caufe 
of  it,  and  found  it  fown  with  an  Englifh 
oat,  no  other  difference  in  the  circumftances. 

His  fyftem  of  fheep  is  to  buy  ewes,  in  Sep- 
tember, at  14s.  6d.  and  to  fatten  both  lamb 
and  ewe,  felling  the  firfl  at  9s.  and  the  latter 
at  1 8s.  The  wool  is  4s.  They  lamb  the  be- 
ginning of  March.  Obferving  the  legs  being 
long,  his  man  affured  me  that  the  longer  the 
legs,  the  better  the  fheep  fold  in  Smithfield. 
A  ridiculous  prepoffeffion !  not  peculiar  to 
Ireland  j  Wiltlhire  has  it. 

June  26th,  breakfafted  with  Colonel  Mar- 
lay,  at  Cellbridge,  found  he  had  practifed 
hufbandry  with  much  fuccefs,  and  given  great 
attention  to  it  from  the  peace  of  1763,  which 
put  a  period  to  a  gallant  fcene  of  fervice  in 
Germany ;  walked  through  his  grounds, 
which  I  found  in  general  very  well  cultivat- 
ed ;  his  fences  excellent,  his  ditches  5  by  6, 
and  7  by  6  ;  the  banks  well  made,  and  plant- 
ed with  quicks ;  the  borders  dug  away  covered 

with 


K    I     L     D     A    R    E.  15 

with  lime,  till  perfe&ly  flacked,  then  mixed 
with  dung,  and  carried  into  the  fields  :  a  prac- 
tice which  Mr.  Marlay  has  found  of  very  great 
benefit.  He  has  cultivated  the  large  Scotch 
cabbage  for  two  or  three  years,  which  came 
to  16  or  171b.  on  an  average,  applied  them  to 
fattening  oxen  that  had  been  fed  on  grafs ; 
began  to  give  them  in  November  -,  has  had 
2|  acres :  they  fattened  the  beafxs  very  well, 
full  as  well  as  turnips,  but  did  not  think 
they  anfwered  the  expenfe,  as  they  require  in 
order  to  have  them  of  a  great  fizc  an  immenfe 
quantity  of  dung. 

Turnips. 

He  has  fown  every  year  fince  1763,  always 
had  from  4  to  17  acres,  has  ufually  drilled 
them  in  rows,  the  diflances  various  ;  but  thofe 
which  anfwered  beft,  were  double  rows  at  12 
inches,  with  intervals  of  three  feet,  horfe 
hoed,  hand  hoed,  and  weeded  them.  Pre- 
pared for  them  by  lime  and  dung  ;  the  crops 
fine,  up  to  21  lb.  a  turnip,  but  on  an  average 
about  Sib.  Generally  fed  beafts  with  them 
that  had  the  fummer's  grafs,  but  with  both 
gave  fome  hay,  and  were  very  fat  in  four 
months.  Continued  them  in  the  fame  ground 
for  fix  or  feven  years  together,  manuring  for 
them  every  fecond  year.  It  is  rather  to  be 
regretted  that  he  did  not  every  year  change 
the  land. 

Potatoes. 


i6  K    I    L    D     A    R    E. 

Potatoes. 

Plants  them  with  the  plough,  drawing  fur- 
rows five  feet  afunder, .filled  with  dung,  the 
fets  on  the  dung,  and  then  covered  with  the 
plough,  and  horfe-hoed  them  backwards  and 
forwards,  the  crop  2$  barrels  per  acre  of  very 
large  ones. 

Clover. 

Mr.  Marlay  has  introduced  this  plant  {o 
generally,  that  he  fows  no  corn  without  it. 
The  profit  exceedingly  great,  more  than  that 
of  any  other  improvement. 

Lime. 

Ufed  much,  mixed  with  earth,  and  found 
great  fuccefs  from  it,  even  on  lime-fione 
land.  Burns  at  yd.  a  barrel;  always  leaves  it 
on  the  ditch-earth  to  (lack,  and  then  mixes  it 
before  dung  is  put  to  it. 

Draining. 

Has  drained  much  in  the  hollow  way,  fill- 
ing with  ftones,  and  found  the  benefit  ex- 
ceedingly great,  can  cart  on  the  wetteft  lands 
at  any  time,  two  years  have  paid  the  expenfe. 

Ploughing. 

Inftead  of  the  common  draught  of  the  coun- 
try, he  ufes  often  only  two  oxen  in  a  plough, 
for  he  has  many  forts  of  ploughs  from  Mr. 
Baker  and  from  England. 

Cows. 


K    I    L    D     A    R    E.  17 

Cows. 

From  three  Kerry  cows,  from  the  middle 
of  May  to  the  middle  of  September,  he  had 
241b.  of  butter  a  week. 

The  Colonel  favoured  me  with  the  follow- 
ing particulars  of  the  common  hufbandry  about 
Cellbridge.  Farms  generally  100  acres  j  the 
medium  of  the  county  from  20I.  to  iool. 
Soil  various ;  itoney  loams,  gravels  and  clays, 
and  on  lime-fione  quarries.  Rents  about 
il.  1  os  on  an  average.     Their  courfe, 

1.  Fallow. 

2.  Wheat,  fow  a  barrel  and  get  7. 

3.  Oats,  fow  two  barrels  and  get  14. 

4.  Oats. 

A  little  barley  is  cultivated. 

They  plough  three  or  four  times  for  wheat. 
Turnips  were  fown  in  fields  30  years  ago, 
but  left  off  on  account  of  the  poor  ftealing 
them.  Great  quantities  of  potatoes  planted 
in  the  trenching  way,  the  expenfe  3I.  in  la- 
bour only  to  put  in  if  done  by  hire,  and  40s. 
if  for  themfelves.  The  cottagers  pay  the  far- 
mers 81.  an  acre  for  the  land  ready  dunged, 
and  they  require  three  car  loads  to  every  fquare 
perch. — This  great  manuring  fwallows  up  not 
only  all  the  dung  of  the  farm,  but  nine  tenths 
of  that  of  the  kingdom.  They  begin  to 
plant  in  March,  and  continue  it  to  the  end  of 
May,  moft  of  them  weed,  the  crop  upon  an 
.  Vol.  1.  C  average 


i9  K    I     L    D     A    R    E. 

average  about  ioo  barrels,  at  5s.  each.  They 
are  obliged  to  clear  the  land  by  the  firft  of 
November,  when  the  farmer  ploughs  and  fows- 
wheat  and  gets  fine  crops.  The  apple  po- 
tatoe  is  liked  beft,  becaufe  they  laft  till  the 
new  ones  come  in. 

In  refpecl  to  manuring  they  ufe  but  little 
lime,  but  depend  principally  on  lime-ftone 
gravel,  300  carloads  to  an  acre;  if  taken  out 
of  the  ditch  as  on  the  fpot,  it  cofts  about  1  8 
or  19s.  an  acre.  It  will  laft  about  five  or  fix 
years  good. 

As  to  laying  lands  to  grafs  the  tenants  do  it 
very  often  ;  but  their  only  way  is  to  let  it  co- 
ver itfclf  with  fuch  vegetables  as  may  come, 
and  upon  fome  land  it  forms  very  good  grafs. 

But  few  cows  kept.  They  apply  their  grafs 
chiefly  to  fattening  cows ;  there  is  fome  good 
meadow  on  the  river,  and  in  grazing,  two 
acres  will  fatten  three  cows,  befides  fome  fheep 
and  winter  food.  Flocks  rife  to  3  or  400— 
buy  in  wethers  half  fat,  which  turn  into  af- 
ter-grafs  till  Chriitmas,  then  to  hay,  and  fell 
in  February  and  March;  buy  at  18  to  20,  fell 
at  30  to  35.  They  plough  with  both  horfes 
and  oxen,  the  draft  four  oxen  or  two  oxen 
and  two  horfes.  To  a  farm  of  117  acres,  ten 
horfes  and  two  oxen. 

They  plough  five  inches  deep,  and  do  one 
half,  or  three  fourths  of  an  acre  a  day.     Lay 

their 


K    I    L    D    A    R    E.  19 

their  lands  in  three  feet  ridges — No  cutting 
itraw  into  chaff.  The  draft  oxen  have  hay 
when  worked.  Hire  of  a  boy,  a  horfe  and 
car,  is.  6d.  a  day;  two  cars  and  one  man  is.  6d. 
In  hiring  and  itocking  farms — for  50  acres 

4  Horfes,  at  3I  35.  -               12  12     o 

3  Cows,  at  3I.  3s.  -          -           990 

2  Young  cattle,  at   i6s.  -         1    12     o 

2  Pigs  5s.                  -  -             o   10     O 

2  Cars  40s.                 -  -            400 

1  Plough                 -  -                    o    «6     o 

Harrows                  -  -                  050 
No  harnefs 

Sundries                  -  -                   I      o     o 

Furniture                 -  -               I     O     o 
Houfekeeping  is.  40*.  a  day  for  half  a 

year                 -  -              12     o     o 

Harveft,  labouring,  &c.  -              10     O     o 
Seed,  10  acres,  lobars,  wheat  1000 

10  Acres  oats,  20  ditto  600 

5  Ditto  bere,  5  ditto  3  o  o  19     o     o 

Produce. 

3  Cows  51b.  butter  a  week,  from  ifl 

May  to  end  of  Sept.  ioolb.  at  8(1.       368 

1  Pigs             -             -             -  140 

50  Barrels  of  wheat                  -  50     o     o 

10  Acres  wheat  ftraw                 -  1000 

IO oats,  100  barrels           -  30     o     O 

$             bere,  13  ditto         -  48   15     o 

£  143    5    8 
Ca  Ex- 


*o  K    I    L    D    A    R    E. 

Expenses. 

L  a  bo  u  r < £ .  i  c 

Rent   and    cefs 80  90 


A  farmer  that  has  a  plough,  a  harrow  three 
cars,  four  horfes  and  fix  cows  with  50I.  in  his 
pocket,  will  take  a  farm  of  100  acres.  Tythes 
for  wheat  7s.  for  oats  and  bere  3s.  for  mowing 
ground  5s.  Land  fells  at  22  years  purchafe, 
has  fallen  fince  1  772  one  or  two  years.  Coun- 
ty cefs  paid  by  tenant  for  roads  is.  an  acre. 
Leafes  ufual  three  lives  or  31  years,  fome  re- 
newable for  ever.  People  rather  increafed. 
Rent  of  a  cabbin  and  half  an  acre  of  land, 
40s.  All  Catholics.  Building  a  new  cottage 
1  ol.  which  with  one  half  an  acre  lets  at  40s. 
for  a  farm  of  50  acres,  40  to  50I.  Building  a 
wall  10  feet  high,  18  inches  thick,  and  21 
foot  long,  34s.  with  mortar  dafhed  8s.  lefs, 
Hating  a  guinea  a  fquare. 

Walked  through  Laughlinftown,  the  farm 
of  the  late  Mr.  John  Why n  Baker,  to  whom 
the  Dublin  Society,  with  a  liberality  that  does 
them  great  honour,  gave  for  feveral  years 
300I.  annually  in  order  to  make  experiments. 

I  had  had  the  pleafurc  of  correfponding 
with  him  feveral  years,  and  melancholy  it 
was  to  fee  the  land  of  a  man  of  fo  much  in- 
genuity no  longer  his,  and  more  fo,  to  hear 
with  all  his  exertions  he  was  not  able  to  an- 
fvver  the  expectations  raifed  of  him.     I  found 

what 


K    I     L    D    A  -R    E.  21 

what  I  had  fufpedtcd  from  reading  his  experi- 
ments, that  he  wanted  capital;  without  a 
fufnxient  one  it  is  impoflible  to  farm  well: — 
A  man  may  have  all  the  abilities  in  the  wTorld, 
write  like  a  genius,  talk  like  an  angel,  and 
realy  understand  the  buiinefs  in  all  its  depths, 
but  unlefs  he  has  a  proper  capital,  his  farm 
will  never  be  fit  for  exhibition  ; — and  then,  to 
condemn  him  for  not  being  a  good  farmer  in 
practice  as  well  as  theory,  is  juft  like  abufing 
the  inhabitants  oi  the  Irifh  cabbins  for  not 
becoming  excellent  managers.  No  idea  could 
be  more  ufeful,  than  that  of  encouraging 
fuch  a  man  as  Mr.  Baker,  but  a  capital 
fhould  have  been  furnifhed  him  for  bringing 
his  farm  into  order,  and  when  it  was  fo,  he 
fhould  have  been  directed  not  to  try  any  ex- 
periments ;  becaufe  thofe  trials  were  for  the 
acquifition  of  knowledge  in  disputable  points, 
and  the  fociety  wanted  no  fuch  difquili- 
tions,  but  the  exhibition  of  a  farm,  cultivat- 
ed in  a  manner  which  experience  has  rendered 
jndifputable  in  England  or  eliewhere, 

Viewed  Lucan,  the  feat  of  Agmondiiham 
Vefey,  Efq;  on  the  banks  of  the  LifFey  ;  the 
houfe  is  rebuilding,  but  the  wood  on  the  ri- 
ver, with  walks  through  it,  is  exceeding  beau- 
tiful. The  character  of  the  place  is  that  of 
a  fequeffered  (hade.  Diilnnt  views  are  every 
w7here  ihut  out,  and  the  objects  all  corres- 
pond perfectly  with  the  impreiiion  they  were 
dehVned  to  raife :  it  is  a  walk  on  the  banks 

c3 


12  K    I    L    D    A    R    E. 

of  the  river,  chiefly  under  a  variety  of  fine 
wood,  Which  rifes  on  varied  (lopes,  in  fome 
parts'  gentle,  in  others  fteep  -,  fpreading  here 
and  there  into  cool  meadows,  on  the  oppofite 
fhore,  rich  banks  of  wood  or  fhrubby  ground. 
The  walk  is  perfectly  fequeftered,  and  has 
that  melancholy  gloom  which  fhould  ever 
dwell  in  fuch  a  place.  The  river  is  of  a 
character  perfectly  fuited  to  the  reft  of  the 
fcenery,  in  fome  places  breaking  over  rocks ; 
in  others  filent,  under  the  thick  fhade  of 
fpreading  wood.  Leaving  Lucan,  the  next 
place  is  Leixlip,  a  fine  one,  on  the  river, 
with  a  fall,  which,  in  a  wet  feafon,  is  con- 
siderable. Then  St.  Wolrtans,  belonging  to 
the  dean  of  Derry,  a  beautiful  villa,  which 
is  alfo  on  the  river;  the  grounds  gay  and 
open,  though  not  without  the  advantage  of 
much  wood,  difpofed  with  judgment.  A 
winding  fhrobbery  quits  the  river,  and  is 
made  to  lead  through  fome  dreffed  ground 
that  is  pretty  and  chearful. 

Mr.  Conclly's,  aiCaftle-town,  to  which  all 
travellers  refbrt,  is  the  fineft  houfe  in  Ire- 
land, and  not  exceeded  by  many  in  England- 
it  is  a  large  handfome  edifice,  iituated  in  the 
middle  of  an  extenfive  lawn,  which  is  quite 
furrounded  with  fine  plantations  difpofed  lo 
the  be  ft  advantage:  to  the  north,  the  fe  unite 
into  very  large  woods,  through  which  many 
winding  walks  lead,  with  the  convenience  of 
feveral   ornamented    feats,    rooms,  &c.     On 

the 


K    X    L    D     A    R    E,  23 

the  other  fide  of  the  honfe,  upon  the  river, 
is  a  cottage,  with  a  fhrubbery,  prettily  laid 
,out  4  the  houfe  commands  an  extenfive  view, 
bounded  by  the  Wicklow  mountains.  It 
confifts  of  feveral  noble  aoartments.  On  the 
firft  floor  is  a  beautiful  gallery,  80  feet  long, 
elegantly  fitted  up. 

June  27th,  left  Lord  Harcourt's,  and  hav- 
ing received  an  invitation  from  the  Duke  of 
Leinfter,  paffed  through  Mr.Conolly's  grounds 
to  his  Grace's  feat  at  Cartown,  the  park  ranks 
among    the    fineft    in   Ireland.       It  is  a  vaft 
lawn,  which    waves   over   gentle   hills,    fur- 
rounded  by  plantations  of  great  extent,  and 
which  break  and  divide  in  places,  fo  as  to  give 
much  variety.     A  large  but  gentle  vale  winds 
through  the  whole,  in  the  bottom  of  which  a 
fmall   itream  has   been  enlarged  into  a  fine 
river,    which   throws  a  chearfulnefs  through 
niaft  of  the  fcenes :  over  it  a  handfome  ftone- 
bridge.     There  is  a  great  variety  on  the  banks 
of  this  vale;  part  of  it  confifts  of  mild  and 
gentle  Hopes,  part  fteep  banks  of  thick  wood; 
in  another  place  they  are  formed  into  a  large 
fhrubbery,  very  elegantly  laid  out,  and  dreff- 
ed  in  the  higheil;  order,  with  a  cottage,  the 
fcenery   about  which  is    uncommonly   pleaf- 
ing:  and  farther  on,  this  vale  takes  a  ftronger 
character,  having  a   rocky  ban!;  on  one  fide, 
and   fteep  flopes  fcattered    irregularly,    with 
wood  on  the  other.     On  one  of  *he  moil:  rif- 
ing  grounds  in  the  park  is  a  tower,  from  the 

top. 


21-  KILCOCK. 

top  of  which  the  whole  fcenery  is  beheld; 
the  park  fpreads  on  every  fide  in  fine  fheets 
of  lawn,  kept  in  the  higheft  order  by  nco 
fheep,  fcattered  over  with  rich  plantations, 
and  bounded  by  a  large  margin  of  wood, 
through  which  is  a  riding. 

From  this  building  his  Grace  has  another 
fort  of  view,  not  every  where  to  be  met  with  j 
he  looks  over  a  great  part  of  60,000  acres, 
which  lie  around  him  nearly  contiguous ; 
and  Ireland  is  obliged  to  him  for  fpending 
the  revenue  on  the  fpot  that  produces  it. 
At  a  fmall  diitance  from  the  park  is  a  new 
town.  Manooth,  which  the  duke  has  built ; 
it  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  confifts  of  good 
houfes.  His  Grace  gives  encouragement  to 
fettling  in  it,  confequently  it  increafes,  and 
he  meditates  feveral  improvements. 

Reached  Kilcock. 

June  28th,  brcakfafted  with  Mr.  Jones  of 
Dollefiown,  who  was  fo  obliging  as  to  an- 
fwer  my  enquiries  concerning  the  hufban- 
dry  of  his  neighbourhood.  He  informed  me, 
that  the  town  of  Kilcock  contained  fix  great 
diftilleries  for  making  whifky,  and  that  all 
the  wafh  and  grains  were  ufed  in  fattening 
either  hogs  or  beafts,  generally  the  latter, 
iibout  November  they  put  them  to  it,  and 
though  quite  lean,  they  will  be  completely 
fat  by  Eafter  :  thofe  who  are  more  attentive 

than 


K    I    L    C    O    C     K.  25 

than  common,  give  them  alfo  fome  bran  or 
hay.  Mr.  Fofter  of  Branchale,  at  fome  dif- 
tance  from  the  town,  has  a  more  complete 
diftillery,  and  fats  more  beafis  than  any  other 
perfcn. 

Farms  here  rife  from  20  to  100  acres,  at 
2 is.  an  acre,  except  about  the  town,  where 
they  are  higher  :  but  they  have  fallen  5s.  an 
acre  in  live  or  fix  years. 

The  courfe  moil  common  is, 

1.  Potatoes,  which  yield  60  barrels  an  acre. 
2     Bere  fown  in  November,  I  of  a  barrel 
per  acre,  the  crop  13  or  14. 

3.  Oats,  H  to  two  barrels  fown,  the  pro- 
duce 13. 

4.  Oats. 

5.  Summer  fallow. 

6.  Wheat,  fowl,  get  7, 

7.  Oats. 

8.  Oats. 

They  plant  fome  potatoes  on  lays  without 
dung  j  but  for  this  the  land  muft  be  very 
good,  or  the  lay  old :  it  is  not  efteemed  fo 
good  a  way  as  on  ftubble.  The  cottars  give 
5I.  5s.  to  61.  an  acre  dunged  for  planting  po- 
tatoes, and  their  expenfes  are  as  follow  5 


Rent 


a6  K    I    L    C    O    C    K. 

Rent  -  -  -  £•  5  i'j  -'* 

Digging  and  putting  in  -  3100 

10  barrels  of  feed,  at  5  s.  per  barrel;  2    10     O 

Flanting  and  fpreading  the  dung        -  o  10     o 

Digging  and  gathering         -  -  3   10 


o 


£•  15 


The  cutting  the  fetts  and  weeding  done  in, 
Broken  days. 

Sixty  barrels  at  5  s. — 15  L  Confequently 
the  prime  cofl  to  them  is  §  s.  a  barrel,  or  1  s. 
3d.  a  bufhel,  Bnglifh,  which  is  an  evident 
proof  that  this  is  the  worft  mode  of  planting 
in  the  world.  They  have  not  done  taking 
them  up  till  Chriitmas, 

Lkneftone  gravel  is  the  general  manure  06 
the  country  -,  it  is  found  at  twro  feet  depth, 
and  the  worfe  the  ground  is  the  better  the 
gravel  does  upon  it.  They  ufe  it  only  for 
ploughed  land.  A  good  dreffing  of  it  colts 
50  s.  an  acre,  and  it  lafts  feven  years.  But 
few  cattle  or  (heep  kept,  for  tillage  has  in- 
creafed  within  twenty  years  very  much, 
owing  to  the  culture  of  potatoes,  not  to  the 
bounty  on  the  inland  carriage  of  corn. 

They  plough  entirely  with  horfes,  ufe  four, 
in  a  plough,  and  do  three-fourths  of  an  acre 
a  day.  Inlaying  their  vvheat  and  bere  lands, 
they  are  very  attentive  to  do  it  well  -,  if  the 
foil  is  dry  on  broad  lands,  if  wet,  on  narrow  ; 
•  an<t 


K     1     L     C     O     C     K.  2~ 

and  after  it  is  fowri  and  harrowed,  they  go 
©nee  with  the  plough  in  every  furrow,  and 
fhovel  out  all  the  loofe  moulds :  a  practice 
which  cannot  be  praifed  too  much.  They 
are  lo  far  from  cutting  frraw  into  chaff,  that 
they  throw  away  that  of  their  crops.  They 
are,  upon  the  whole,  in  much  better  cir- 
cumitances  than  formerly,  have  fewer  holi- 
days, and  more  induftry.  Tythes  are  com- 
pounded. !V:cadow  3  s.  Wheat  5  s.  Bere  5  s. 
Oats  3  s.  Leafes  are  from  21  to  31  years. 
Rent  of  a  cabbin  and  fmall  garden  40  s. 
Building  one  5  1.  A  farm-houfe,  and  offices 
for  50  acres,  40 1.  I  remarked,  all  the  way 
I  came,  great  quantities  of  poultry  in  the 
cabbins  and  farms. 

Mr.  Jones,  in  an  attentive  practice  of  agri- 
culture, has  tried  fome  experiments  of  con- 
fequence.  Potatoes  he  has  cultivated  for  cat- 
tle ;  and  had,  at  onetime,  twelve  fiore  bullocks 
keeping  uprn  them — they  liked  them  much, 
and  eat  thrct  barrels  a  day.  They  weighed 
5  cwt.  each;  aid  had  they  been  kept  long 
enough  on  the  potatoes,  would  have  been 
fattened.  For  his  hor'fes,  he  boils  the  pota- 
toes, gives  them,  mixed  with  bran,  and  finds 
that  they  do'  very  vycll  on  tjiem,  without 
oats, 

Mr.  Armftrong,  of  Kiqg's-county,  had  80 
fheep  in  the  fnovy  Iaft  winter,  which  got  to 
his  potatoes,  and  eat  them  freely,  upon  which 
he  picked  40  of  them,  and  put  them  to  that 
food   regularly  ;    they    fattened    very   quick, 

much 


23       SUMMERHILL. 

much    fooner   than  40    others   at    hay,    and 
yielded  him  a  great  price  at  Smithfield. 

Mr.  Jones  has  improved  fome  poor  rough 
land  that  produced  nothing,  firft  by  hollow- 
draining  thoroughly,  and  then  manuring  it 
with  limeltone  gravel,  which  brought  up  a 
great  crop  of  white  and  red  clover,  and  tre- 
foile.  He  alio  fprends  this  manure  on  lays  he 
intends  breaking  up;  and  obferves.  that  the 
ufe  of  it  is  very  great,  for,  when  dug  out  of 
ditches,  you  gain  at  once  manure,  drains  and 
fences.  He  has  feen  fome  of  it  dropt  on  a 
bog  in  carting,  and  where-ever  it  falls,  is  furq 
to  bring  up  the  white  clover. 

From  hence  took  the  road  to  Summerhill, 
the  feat  of  the  Right  Hon.  H.  L.  Rowley, 
the  country  is  chearfuj  and  rich ;  and  if  tho 
Irifh  cabbins  continue  like  what  I  have  hither- 
to feen,  I  (hall  not  heiitate  to  pronounce  their 
inhabitants  as  well  off  as  moil  Englifh  Cot- 
tagers. They  are  built  of  mud  walls  18 
inches  or  2  feet  thick,  and  well  thatched, 
which  are  far  warmer  than  the  thin  clay  walls 
in  England.  Here  are  few  cottars  without  a 
cow,  and  fome  of  them  two.  A  belly  full 
invariably  of  potatoes,  and  generally  turf  for 
fuel  from  a  bog.  It  is  true  they  have  not" 
always  chimneys  to  their  cabbins,  the  door 
ferving  for  that  and  window  too:  if  their 
eyes  are  not  affecled  with  the  fmoke,  it  may 
be  an  advantage  in  warmth.  Every  cottage 
fwarms  with  poultry,  and  mod  of  them  have 

pigs. 


SUMMERHIL'L.       29 

pigs.  It  is  to  the  polite  attention  of  Mr. 
Rowley,  I  owe  the  following  information. 
About  Summerhill  the  foil  is  moftly  ftror.g 
ftony  land,  on  clay,  but  naturally  fertile.  He 
lets  it  at  about  20 s.  an  acre,  which  is  the 
average  rent  of  the  whole  county  of  iVltath 
to  the  occupier ;  but  if  the  tenures  of  middle 
men  are  included,  it  is  not  above  14s.  This 
intermediate  tenant,  between  landlord  and 
occupier,  is  very  common  here.  The  farmers 
are  very  much  improved  in  their  circumflances 
fince  about  the  year  1752.  At  a  rack-rent, 
the  land  fells  at  21  years  purchafe;  but 
according  to  circumiiances,  to  26  and  27. 
Whenever  a  number  of  years  purchafe  of  land 
is  mentioned  in  Ireland,  it  implies  a  neat  rent, 
without  any  deductions  whatever.  A  conrfe 
of  crops  very  common  here  is  from  the  lay. 

1.  "Wheat,  the  crop  6  barrels. 

2.  Wheat. 

3.  Oats,  the  crop  10  barrels. 

4.  Oats. 

5.  Clover. 

6.  Clover. 

Potatoes  are  much  planted,  the  bell:  land 
yields  100  to  120  barrels  per  acre,  but  a  mid- 
dling produce  80,  at  32  ftone  the  barrel. 
The  poor  pay  61.  or  61.  6  s.  an  acre  rent  for 
grafs  land  to  plant,  and  3  1.  or  4I.  for  a  fe- 
cond  crop.  They  are  every  where  ufed  for 
feeding  hogs  and  poultry.  Mr.  Rowley  has 
fattened  worked  oxen  of  five  years  old  in 
eight  weeks  on  them  parboiled,  with  hay  be- 

fides. 


3o  SUMMERHILL. 
fides.  Much  marie  is  ufed  here  on  the  lighter 
lands,  but  for  the  heavy  foils  lime-flone  gra- 
vel is  preferred.  In  hiring  farms,  the  lower 
tenants  will  take  them  of  $o  acres,  if  they 
have  a  few  cows  and  horfes,  without  a  (hil- 
ling in  their  pockets.  Mr.  Rowley  keeps  a 
very  considerable  domain  in  his  hands;  ad- 
joining to  it  is  a  black  turf  bog  of  admirable 
ufe  for  firing.  I  viewed  it  attentively,  and 
am  clear,  that  all  fuch  bogs  as  this  with  a 
fall  from  them  for  draining,  might  very  eafily 
be  improved  into  excellent  meadow.  The 
furface  is  covered  with  heath  about  a  foot 
high,  and  under  that  eight  or  nine  feet  deep 
of^ puffy  fluff,  which  when  burnt  yields  no 
afhes  ;  then  the  bog  turf  ten  feet  deep  cuts 
like  butter,  and  under  that  a  marley  lime- 
flone  gravel.  They  have  found  at  14  feet 
deep  evident  marks  of  the  plough  in  the  foil 
at  bottom,  alfo  remains  of  cabbins,  cribs  for 
cattle,  moofes  horns,  oaks,  yews,  and  fir, 
being  good  red  deal.  In  working  for  fuel, 
they  dig  out  the  black  bog  and  throw  the 
upper  ftratum  in  its  place, ,  through  which 
open  drains  being  kept,  the  turfs,  as  they  are 
du^  are  fpread  on  it  for  drying.  In  many 
fpots  I  remarked  the  vernal  grafs  (aTithoxan- 
thum  odoratum),  the  holcus  (lanatiis),  narrow 
leaved  plantain  (plantcgolanceolata),  docks  (ru- 
mex),  white  and  red  clover  -,  and  on  the  banks 
of  the  mafter  drains  a  full  crop  of  fern  (pteris 
aquilina).  Upon  cutting  fmall  furface  drains 
on  the  bog  the  heath  (erica)  doubles  its  growth. 
The  expenfe  of  cutting  drains  in  the  bog  fix 

feet 


S     L     A    I     N     E.  31 

feet  wide  at  top,  fix  deep,  and  one  wide  at 
bottom,  is  8d.  or  9  d.  a  perch  of  21  foot. 
The  plantations  and  ornamented  grounds  at 
Summerhill  are  exteniive,  and  form  a  very- 
fine  environ,  fpreading  over  the  hills,  and 
having  a  noble  appearance  from  the  high 
lands  above  the  bog.  The  houfe  is  large  and 
handfome,  with  an  elegant  hall,  a  cube  of 
30  feet,  and  many  very  good  and  convenient 
apartments. 

Went  in  the  evening  to  Lord  Mornington's 
at"  Dangan,  who  is  making  many  improve- 
ments which  he  fhewed  me  ;  his  plantations 
are  extenfive,  and  he  has  formed  a  large  wa- 
ter, having  five  or  fix  iflands  much  varied,  and 
promontories  of  high  land  fhoot  fo  far  into 
it  as  to  form  almofl  difiant  lakes,  the  effect 
pleafing.  There  are  above  ioo  acres  under 
water,  and  his  Lordfhip  has  planned  a  confi- 
derable  addition  to  it.  Returned  to  Summer- 
hill. 

June  29th,  left  it.  tnking  the  road  to  Slaine, 
the  country  very  pleafant  all  the  way;  much 
of  it  on  the  banks  of  the  Boyne,  variegated 
with  fome  woods,  planted  hedge-rows,  and 
gentle  hills :  the  cabbins  continue  much  the 
fame,  the  fame  plenty  of  poultry,  pi^s,  and 
cows.  The  cattle  in  the  road  have  their  fore 
legs  all  tied  together  with  ftraw  to  keep  them 
from  breaking  into  the  fields ;  even  fheep, 
and  pigs,  and  goats  are  all  in  the  fame  bon- 
dage,    I  had  the  pleafure  of  meeting  Colonel 

Burton 


U  S    L     A    I   -N    E. 


o 


Burton  at  the  caftle,  in  whom  I  was  io  for- 
tunate as  to  find,  on  repeated  occaiions,  the 
utmoft  aii'duity  to  procure  me  every  fpecies 
of  information,  entering  into  the  fpirit  of 
my  deiign  with  the  moit  liberal  ideas.  His 
partner  in  Slaine  Mills,  Mr.  Jebb,  gave  me 
the  following  particulars  of  the  common  huf- 
bandry,  which,  upon  reading  over  to  feveral 
intelligent  farmers,  they  found  very  little  oc- 
cafion  to  correct.  Farms  rife  from  ioo  to 
300  acres,  the  foil,  a  ftoney  loam  upon  a  rock, 
and  lets  on  an  average  at  25  s.  and  the  whole 
county  throughout  the  fame.  The  courfes  of 
crops, 

1.  Fallow  with  lime,   1 20  barrels  an  acre,  at 

7  d.  befides  carriage. 

2.  Wheat,  fow  a  barrel,  and  get  6  to  7, 

Tometimes  1 1. 

3.  Barley  or  oats,  if  barley,  fow  1 1,   and 

get   13- 

4.  Oats,  fow  two  barrels,  the  crop  16.   Alfo, 

1.  Fallow,  2.  wheat;  3.  barley,  4.  oats,   5. 
clover,   for 

Two  Years  6.  barley. 
Another,  1.  fallow,  2 Wheat,  3.  fpring  corn, 
4.  fpring  corn,  5.  fallow,  6.  wheat,  7.  barley, 
and  red  or  white  clover  or  trefoile  and  hay 
feeds.  Another,  1  fallow,  2.  wheat,  3.  clover, 
2  years,  4.  barley,  5.  oats.  A  common  prac- 
tice is,  for  the  farmers  to  hire  any  kind  of 
rough  wafte  land,  at  three  guineas,  or  three 
pound  an  acre  for  three  crops,  engaging  to 
lime  it  if  the  lime  is  found  them;  120  barrels 
per  acre,  which  comes  to  3!.    10 s.  from  9I. 

9  s. 


S    L    A    I    N    E.  33 

9  s.  leaves  fix  for  three  years.  They  cultivate 
it  in  the  common  courfe  of  I.  fallow,  2.  wheat, 
3.  barley,  and  4.  oats.  Turnips  not  generally 
come  in,  but  farmer  Macguire  lias  20  acres 
to  40  every  year,  but  does  not  hoe  them,  he 
feeds  fheep  on  the  land  and  then  fows  barley 
and  clover  Clover  would  be  more  general, 
was  it  not  for  the  expenfe  of  picking  the 
{tones  for  mowing,  which  coils  10s.  or  12s. 
an  acre.  Sometimes  mow  it  once,  and  feed 
afterwards ;  the  crops  exceedingly  great.  A 
few  tares  fown  for  the  horfes.  On  the  banks 
of  the  Nanny  water,  many  white  peafe  fown, 
iiiftead  of  a  fallow,  and  good  crops,  wheat 
fown  after  them.  They  alio  fow  beans  about 
Kilbrue.  Every  farmer  has  a  little  flax,  from 
a  rood  to  an  acre,  and  all  the  cottagers  a  fpot, 
if  they  have  any  land,  they  go  through  the 
whole  prccefs  themfelves,  and  fpin  and  weave 
it.  From  hence  to  Drogheda,  there  is  a  con- 
fiderable  manufacture  of  coarfe  cloth,  which 
is  exported  to  Liverpool,  about  1  s.  a  yard. 
At  Navan  there  is  a  fabrick  of  facking  for 
home  confumptionj  the  weavers  earn  is.  a 
day  at  thefe  works. 

Potatoes  are  a  great  article  of  culture  ±  the 
cottagers  take  land  of  the  farmers,  giving  them 
4I.  1  os.  an  acre,  dunged.  All  in  the  trench- 
ing way,  the  ridge  fix  feet,  the  furrow  two 
and  a  half  j  always  weed  them,  the  belt  fea- 
fon  for  planting  the  middle  of  April,  The 
crop  64  barrels  on  an  average,  and  the  price 
3s.  6d.  a  barrel.  They  have  got  much  inta 
the  apple  potatoe. 

Vol,  I.  D  Rent 


34 


S    L    A    I 

N 

E 

£• 

s. 

£ 

Rent 

- 

4 

II 

0 

Spreading  dung 

0 

2 

0 

Seven  barrels  of  feed  3s.  6d. 

1 

4 

6 

Cutting  and  laying 

- 

0 

6- 

6 

Trenching  and  earthing  up 

- 

4 

0 

0 

Taking  up  picking  id  £.  a  b: 

irrel, 

64 

0 

8 

0 

10 

1 2 

0 

From  whence  it  appears,  that  the  prime  coft 
of  the  potatoes  is  4s.  a  barrel.  Wheat  is 
fown  after  them,  and  fometimes  barley ;  the 
wheat  is  generally  a  bad  crop  and  bad  grain, 
but  the  barley  good.  For  fat  hogs  they  boil 
them,  and  at  laft  mix  fome  bran  or  oats  ;  a 
hog  of  2  cwt.  will  fatten  in  two  months,  on 
fix  barrels  and  one  barrel  of  oats.  Much 
poultry  is  alfo  reared  and  fed  in  all  the  cab- 
bins  by  means  of  potatoes. 

Wafte  lands  have  been  brought  in  and  cul- 
tivated at  Grange  Geath,  the  foil  ftony  and 
over-run  with  heath  (erica  vulgaris)  and  whins, 
(ukx  enropceus)  let  before  the  improvement  at 
4s.  but  lets  now  at  20s.  They  ploughed  up 
the  furface  and  fpontaneous  growth,  fummer 
fallowed  and  lined  at  150  barrels  an  acre, 
fowed  wheat,  and  purfued  the  courfe  above 
mentioned,  the  crops  of  oats  exceedingly  great, 
20  barrels  an  acre  j  of  this  land  there  were 
2500  acres.  The  great  manure  of  the  coun- 
try is- lime,  which   is  always  laid  on  fallow; 

they 


C     U    L     L     E    N.  35 

they  find  the  advantage  of  it  fo  clearly  as  to 
be  Teen  in  the  effect  to  an  inch  :  but  when 
land  is  got  much  out  of  heart,  then  the  lime 
will  not  do  ;  and  they  lay  it  down  to  clover 
for,  feveral  years  till  there  is  fomething  of  a 
turf,  after  which  it  will  anfvver  well.  Hollow 
draining  is  generally  ufed,  even  by  the  com- 
mon farmers,  who  have  found  by  experience 
that  their  lime  will  do  no  good  till  the  land  is 
drained.  The  fences  about  new  inclofed 
pieces,  and  thofe  made  in  general  by  gentle- 
men, are  ditches  fix  feet  deep,  feven  feet 
wide,  and  14  inches  at  bottom,  with  two 
rows  of  quick  in  the  bank,  furz  fown  on  the 
top,  or  a  dead  hedge  of  bru(h.  Good  grafs 
land  for  meadow  lets  for  3  or  4I.  an  acre; 
mow  it  all  and  get  three  ton  of  hay  an  acre  or 
fifteen  Infh  load.  Many  dairies  of  cows,  up 
to  50  and  60,  kept  here  for  butter.  Mr. 
Kelly,  near  the  obeliik,  Drogheda,  has  200 
cows  let  at  5I.  The  breed  is  half  Englifhand 
half  Irifh,  worth  5  to  7I.  each  ;  the  farmers 
let  theirs  to  dairy-men,  who  are  common  la- 
bourers, at  4I.  a  piece,  but  if  they  won't  give 
five  to  feven  quarts  at  a  meal  they  may  be  re- 
jected; a  good  one  will  give  ten  quarts  of 
milk  per  meal,  the  produce  about  5I.  confe- 
quently  there  is  20s.  a  head  profit.  As  but- 
ter-milk is  all  the  food  of  the  people,  the  num- 
ber of  fwme  kept  is  very  fmall :  it  is  carried 
to  Drogheda,  and  fold  at  fix  quarts  a  penny. 
The  cows  are  fed  in  winter  on  hay  alon?, ;  all 
are  kept  abroad  in  the  day,  but  houfed  at 
night.     They  rearalmoft  all  the  calves.,  wean- 

D  2  ing- 


36  C    II    L    L    6    N, 

ing  them  at  fix  weeks  or  two  months  old :  at 
a  fortnight  they  fell  at  3  or  4s.  Some,  but 
not  dairy-men,  give  them  in  rearing  hay-tea. 
They  fatten  many  cows,  having  much  grafs; 
an  acre  to  a  cow.  Swine  fatten  from  one  to 
two  cwt.  Many  are  kept  upon  potatoes  alone, 
and  fattened  intirely  upon  that  root,  which  is 
thought  to  be  a  very  profitable  ufe  ;  the  po- 
tatoe  fed  pork  much  firmer  than  that  on  pol- 
lard. There  is  a  great  demand  this  year, 
many  {hip  loads  alive  being  bought  up  for 
England ;  and  the  price  good,  encourages  the 
breed  incredibly.  Many  fheep  are  kept, 
bought  in  every  year  in  autumn,  moftly  ewes, 
but  fome  wethers,  at  12  to  15s.  Sell  the 
lambs  fat  in  Mayor  June  at  10s.  cut  four  or 
five  pound  of  wool,  worth  5s.  and  fat  the  ewe 
to  19  or  20s.  profit  il.  is.  a  head.  Buy  we- 
thers at  20  to  25s.  fell  at  30  to  42s.  with  a 
fleece  of  feven  pound ;  in  winter  they  have 
hay,  and  fome  fheaf  oats.  No  rot  here. 
Plough  all  with  horfes,  fix  to  a  plough,  and 
do  an  acre  a  day,  working  often  from  fix  in 
the  morning  to  eight  at  night,  and  ftirring 
eight  or  nine  inches  deep.  They  keep  10  or 
12  horfes  to  100  acres  in  tillage,  and  breed 
them  all  themfelves.  The  price  of  plough- 
ing 8s.  an  acre.  The  whole  preparation  of  a 
fallow  worth  25s.  an  acre  ;  and  for  barley  1 2s. 
The  form  of  lands  narrow  ridges  three  or  four 
feet  wide;  the  year's  expenfe  to  a  farmer  5I. 
each  horfe ;  very  feldom  give  them  any  oats. 
They  cut  no  flraw  into  chaff;  and  as  all  their 
corn  is  winnowed  in  the  road,  the  chaff  of  it 

is 


S    L     A     I    N    E.  37 

is  loft.  They  never  break  their  ftubbles  till 
about  Chriftmas ;  the  plough  generally  ufed, 
is  an  imperfect  fwing  one.  In  hiring  and 
flocking  farms,  they  will  take  ioo  acres  or 
more  with  fcarce  any  money  j  but  then  they 
jnuft  have  to  the  value  of 


8  Horfes  at  5I. 
51. 


10s. 


I2S 


103.  a  horfe 


4  Cows 

2  Sows 

6  Cars         3I. 

2  Plougls 

2  Harrows 

No  rollers  ufed 

Harnefs 

Sundries 

Houfhold  furniture 

1  Sack  of  oat-meal 
Labour  fupplied  by  letting  land  to  others  for 
potatoes;  no  feed,  as  he  pays  the  preceding 
tenant  the  eighth  (heaf  or  the  winter  corn, 
and  the  fourth  of  the  fpring,  in  lieu  or  the 
feed  and  fowing. 


£ 

40 

20 
1 

18 
1 


P 

3 

JO 

5 
1 


s. 
o 
o 
o 
o 
4 

*3 


d. 
o 
o 
p 
o 
o 
o 

o 
o 
o 
Q 


ioo  17     o 


A  very  intelligent  labourer,  ferit  for  byMi\ 
Burton,  gave  me  the  following  account  for 
40  acres,  10  of  them  grafs 

£   f.   * 

4  Horfes  -  -  18     4    o 

4  Cows  -  -  20     o     o 


~S     4    o 

Brought 


38 


S     L     A     I     N     E 

Brought  over  £. 

3S 

4 

0 

io  Sheep             -             - 

7 

0 

0 

I    Sow 

0 

15 

0 

I   Plough  and  harnefs 

2 

5 

6 

2  Hi  trows 

i 

2  _ 

9 

io  Sacks             - 

1 

0 

0 

Winnowing  fheet 

0 

10 

0 

Furniture 

10 

0 

0 

i  5   Acres  oats  feed,  to  barrels  and  a 

half  an  acre, 

18 

10 

0 

6  Acres  barley  oneanda  half,  9  bar- 

rels 123. 

5 

8 

0 

Labourers 

20 

16 

0 

2  Boys  and  a  maid  fervant 

3 

8 

3 

Provifion  8  cwt.  of  oatmeal 

3 

4 

0 

4  Barrels  meflin  at  16s. 

3 

4 

0 

Wear  and  tear 

2 

5 

6 

4  Cars 

9 

2 

0 

Poultry 

0 

*3 

3 

127     8     3 


With  this  expenditure  they  fare  no  better  than 
common  labourers,  and  do  not  improve  in 
their  circumftances.  Land  fells  at  rack  rent 
22  and  23  years  purchafe,  as  well  now  as  in 
1768  ;  the  bankruptcies  in  1772  did  not  af- 
fect the  purchafe  of  land.  Lounty  c».fs  S'd. 
to  is.  an  acre-,  tythes  for  wheat  7s.  barley  5s. 
cats  3  to  45.  mowing  ground  3s.  cd.  nothing 
for  land  fed,  and  no  (mall  tythes ;  no  tea  drank 
among;  the  cottagers.  Leafes  in  general  31 
years  to  catholics ;  to  proteftants  three  lives  or 

31  years. 


5  L     A    I    N    E.  39 

31  years.  Rent  of  cabbins  40s.  with  a  po- 
tatoe  garden  5  if  a  cow  is  kept  40s.  more.  No 
emigrations.  The  catholic  religion  general 
among  the  lower  piaffes. 

Labour. 

Ditching  6  feet  by  5,  2od.  a  perch 
4         by  5,   is.  2d. 

6  by  7,  2s.  6d. 
Threfhing  wheat  is.  a  barrel 

Barley  8d. 
Oats  5d. 
No  feryants  hired  at  ail. 
Women  a  day  in  harvefl  8d, 
Rife  in  the  price  of  labour   in  ten  years, 
from  §d.  and  7d.  to  8d.   and    lod.  but  they 
work  harder  and  better. 

Pro  visions. 

Bacon  c;d.  bread  id.  potatoes  2  id.  a  ftone, 
new  milk  id.  a  quart,  ducks  3d.  candles  6  id. 
foap  6  \ d.  firing  of  the  poor  furz  and  coals  to 
a  trifling  amount.  The  farmers  burn  their 
ftraw,  for  which  they  dcjerve  to  be  hanged. 

Building. 

Slate  12s.  per  1000. 

Elm  2I.  1  os.  to  3I.  a  ton. 

Fir  3I. 

Dry  walls  danhed  2s. 

Building  a  cabin  5I. 

Ditto  a  farm  houfe  and  offices  for  100  acres 

,oi. 

Hire 


40  S     L     A     I     N     E. 

Hire  of  four  cars,  one  man  and  a  boy  4s.  a. 
day:  23  miles  from  Dublin  it  takes  the  whole 
week  to  go  twice.  The  price  to  go  there  10s. 
a  week,  4s.  of  it  expenfes  on  the  road.  The 
load  fix  cwt.  each  car.  But  Mr.  Jebb  has  fent 
i8cwt.  to  Dublin  with  one  horfe,  and  not  an 
extraordinary  one,   15  or  16  cwt.  often. 

In  the  improvements  making  about  the  caf- 
tle,  it  was  necefTary  to  move  a  large  hill  of 
lime  ftone,  and  as  the  readieft  way,  Colonel 
Burton  is  burning  it  to  lime.  The  kiln,  like 
mod  I  have  feen  in  Ireland,  is  a  very  good 
one.  It  is  in  the  fhape  of  an  egg,  19  feet 
deep,  and  9  diameter  in  the  fwell  -}  when  new 
it  burnt  400  barrels  in  a  week,  each  three 
bufhels  ;  but  as  the  lining  is  worn,  it  is  now 
from  350  to  400.  A  ton  of  culm,  which  cofts 
at  Drogheda  13s.  and  2s.  freight  from  thence, 
burns  50  barrels  of  lime.  Quarrying  and 
burning  the  ftone  is  1  ^d.  a  barrel,  expenfes  in 
all  5  ^d.  and  it  fells  at  the  kiln  for  yd.  The 
ftone  is  laid  in  layers  eight  or  nine  inches 
thick,  and  is  always  kept  fupplving  at  top 
and  emptying  at  bottom.  The  kiln  coft  35I. 
building,  and  it  employs  three  hands. 

Lord  Conyn gharri's  feat,  Slaine  Cafilc,  on 
the  Eoyne,  is  one  of  the  raoft  beautiful  places 
I  have  feen  •  the  grounds  are  very  bold  and 
various,  riling  around  the  caftle  in  noble  hills 
or  beautiful  inequalities  of  furface,  with  an 
outline  of  flouriihing  plantations.  Under 
the  caftle  flows  the  Boyne,  in  a  reach  broken 


S    L    A     I     N     E.  41 

by  iflands,  with  a  very  fine  fhore  of  rock  on 
one  fide,  and  wood  on  the  other.  Through 
the  lower  plantations  are  ridings,  which  look 
upon  feveral  beautiful  fcenes,  formed  by  the 
river,  and  take  in  the  diffant  country,  exhi- 
biting the  nobleft  views  of  waving  Cultinald 
Hills,  with  the  caftle  finely  fituated  in  the 
midft  of  the  planted  domain,  through  which 
the  Boyne  winds  its  beautiful  courfe. 

Under  Mr  Lambert's  houfe,  on  the  fame 
river,  is  a  moil  romantic  and  beautiful  fpot  j 
rocks  on  one  fide,  rifing  in  peculiar  forms 
very  boldly;  the  other  ileep  wood,  the  river 
bending  fhort  between  them  like  a  land-locked 
bafon. 

Lord  Conyngham's  keeping  up  Slaine  Caf- 
tle, and  fpending  great  fums,  though  he  rarely 
refides  there,  is  an  inftance  of  magnificence 
not  often  met  with  -,  while  it  is  io  common 
for  abfentees  to  drain  the  kingdom  of  every 
{hilling  they  can;  fo  contrary  a  conduct  ought 
to  be  held  in  the  efhmation  which  it  juftly 
deferves. 

June  30th,  rode  out  to  view  the  country 
and  fome  improvements  in  the  neighbour- 
hood :  the  principal  of  which  are  thofe  of 
lord  chief  baron  Fofter,  which  I  faw  from 
Glaiton-IIill,  in  the  road  from  Slaine  to  Dun- 
dalk.  Adjoining  to  it  is  an  extenfive  im- 
provement of  Mr.  Fortefcue's;  ten  years  ago 
the  land  was  let  at  3  s.  6d.  now  it  is  a  guinea, 

which 


42  S    L     A     I     N     E. 

which  great  work  was  done  by  the  tenants, 
and  lime  and  fallon  the  means  purfued.  Thefe 
ana  other  improvements,  with  the  general 
iiicreafe  of  profperity,  has  had  fuch  an  effect 
in  employing  the  people,  that  Colonel  Bur- 
ton allured  me,  that  20  years  ago,  if  he  gave 
notce  at  the  rhafs  houfes,  that  he  wanted 
labourers,  in  two  days  he  could  have  2  or 
300  -,  now  it  is  not  fo  eafy  to  get  20,  from  the 
quantity  of  regular  employment  being  fq 
much  increafed.  I  obferved  weavers  looms  in 
moil  of  the  cabbins,  went  into  one,  ?nd  the 
man  informed  me  that  he  could  weave  a  web 
65  or  66  yards  long,  and  26  inches  wide,  at 
8d.  a  yard  price,  in  a  week.  34  to  36  lb. 
of  yarn  makes  it,  which  coils  1 5  d.  per  lb. 
he  and  his  journeyman  could  earn  7  or  8  s.  a 
week  by  it.  He  paid  4I.  4  s.  for  the  grazing 
of  a  cow,  a  rood  of  potatoe  garden,  and  the 
cibbin.  They  were  burning  itraw,  which  I 
forgot  to  remark  I  have  found  very  common 
where  there  is  no  turf:  a  moll  pernicious 
cuftora,  it  is  in  fad  what  1  have  often  heard 
literally  reported,  that  they  burn  their  dung^ 
hills  in  Ireland. 

PaiTed  through  feveral  farms  much  im- 
proved, and  found  great  attention  given  to 
fences,  the  ditches  very  large,  and  the  banks 
well  planted. 

Lord  Boyne's  eflate  appears  to  be  very  rich, 
and  the  tenants  beyond  the  common  run. 

The 


S     L     A     I     N    E.  43 

The  country  is  well  wooded,  and  has  an 
appearance  of  fome  of  the  befl  parts  of  Eng- 
land. 

Walked  into  Mr.  Maurice's  fields  ;  he  is  a 
confiderable  farmer,  buys  his  fattening  cows 
in  May  from  3I.  to  6  1.  6  s.  fells  fat  from  Au- 
guit  to  Chriftmas,  with  30s.  profit:  he  has 
laid  down  a  meadow  to  grafs  with  fo  much 
care  that  the  expenfe  was  10 1.  an  acre.  In 
one  of  his  fields  he  fowed  red  clover,  with 
the  third  crop  of  corn,  it  failed,  but  an 
amazing  fheet  of  white  clover  came,  which  1 1 
law,  and  was  indeed  furprifed  at  fuch  a  proof 
of  tlie  excellency  of  the  foil,  even  under  fuch 
exceeding  bad  management;  but  not  a  human 
being  that  I  have  met  with  has  any  notion  of 
fowing  clover  with  the  fir  ft  crop. 

Returning  to  Slaine,  dined  with  Mr.  Jebb, 
and  viewed  the  mill,  which  is  a  very  large 
edifice,  excellently  built ;  it  was  begun  in 
1763,  andfinifhed  in  1766.  The  water  from 
Boyne  is  conducted  to  it  by  a  wear  of 
650  feet  Ion?;,  24  feet  bafe,  and  8  feet  high, 
of  folid  mafbnry  :  the  water  let  into  it  by  very 
complete  flood  gates. 

The  canal  is  8co  feci  long,  all  faced  with 
itone,  and  64  feet  wide;  on  one  fide  is  a 
wharf  completely  formed  and  walled  againft 
the  river,  whereon  are  offices  of  feveral  kinds, 
and  a  dry  dock  for  building  lighters.  The 
mill  is  138  feet  long,  the  breadth  54,  and  the 

height 


44  S    L    A    I    N    E. 

height  to  the  cornice  42,  being  a  very  large 
and  handfome  edifice,  fuch  as  no  mill  I  have 
feen  in  England  can  be  compared  with.  The 
corn  upon  being  unloaded,  is  hoifted  through 
doors  in  the  floors  to  the  upper  ftory  of  the 
building,  by  a  very  fimple  contrivance,  being 
worked  by  the  water-wheel,  and  difcharged 
into  fpacious  granaries  which  hold  5000  bar- 
rels. From  thence  it  is  conveyed,  during 
feven  months  in  the  year,  to  the  kiln  for 
drying,  the  mill  containing  two,  which  will 
dry  So  barrels  in  24  hours.  From  the  kiln  it 
is  hoifted  again  to  the  upper  ftory,  from 
thence  to  a  fanning  machine  for  re-drefTing, 
to  get  out  dirt,  foil,  &c.  And  from  thence, 
by  a  fmall  lifting  machine,  into  the  hoppers, 
to  be  ground,  and  is  again  hoifted  into  the 
bolting  mills,  to  be  drefled  into  flour,  dif- 
ferent forts  of  pollard  and  bran.  In  all  which 
progrefs,  the  machinery  is  contrived  to  do  the 
bufinefs  with  the  leaft  labour  pofiible:  it  will 
grind  with  great  eafe  1 20  barrels,  of  20  ftone 
each,  every  day.  Beginning  in  1763,  for  a 
few  years,  about  1 3000  barrels  per  ann.  were 
ground,  of  late  years  up  to  17000  barrels. 
It  may  be  obferved,  that  this  mill  is  very  dif- 
ferent from  the  Engliih  ones,  they  not  being 
under  the  neceflity  of  kiln  drying  or  drefling. 
The  expenfe,  per  barrel,  of  the  drying  in 
coals  and  labour  is  3d.  and  the  wafte  is  i-20th 
in  the  weight ;  but  the  contrivance  reduces 
the  expenfe  of  dreirlng  to  a  trifle.  The 
whole  charge  of  manufacturing  the  wheat 
into  flour  in   mere  labour,   is  9d.  a   barrel, 

and 


S    L     A     I    N    E.  45 

and  the  3  d.  drying  makes  I  s.  The  barrel 
weighs  20  flone,  141b.  to  the  ftone,  of 
which 


Flour  -  14ft.  81b. 
Bran  1     a 

Pollard      J4"' 

;e  of 
rear 


Dirt,    wafte,  grinding?    ^  ,^  Con  average 
and  dreffing       -       3  {      the  yea 


20ft. 


The  wafte,  in  re-drelTing  the  corn,  (which  is 
what  the  farmers  ought  to  do)  is  about  3  lb.  a 
barrel. 

The  pollard  Mr.  Jebb  tried,  for  fix  years, 
in  giving  to  pigs.  Bought  in  Jlores  in  Sep- 
tember, at  7  s.  to  20  s.  each,  and  put  them  to 
pollard  given  wet,  about  the  thicknefs  of 
gruel ;  it  could  have  been  fold  for  2  s.  a  barrel 
of  6  ffcone,  and  in  feeding,  it  did  not  produce 
more  than  10  d.  a  barrel  ;  pork  from  18  s.  to 
20s.  per  cwt.  Thinks  it  would  not  more 
than  pay  the  2  s.  a  barrel  if  pok  was  40  s. 
per  cwt.  Tried  alfo  breeding  fows,  bought 
Berkihire  fows  fed  upon  the  pollard,  but  it 
did  not  anfwer  better  than  the  other  method. 
The  pork  fed  upon  it  was  foft,  and  not  near 
fo  good  as  potatoe  fed.  Mr.  Jebb  thinks, 
however,  that  if  he  had  had  plenty  of  llraw 
litter,  as  the  ftone-yard  foundered  them  and 
clover  for  the  fummer  food,  that  it  would 
have  paid  the  2  s.  a  barrel,  but  not  more,  the 

dung 


46        MONKNEWTON. 

dung  being  then  the   profit.     The   fows  did 
exceedingly  well,  and  the  pigs  alfo   in  rear- 


in; 


The  corn  is  brought  to  the  mill  from  all 
the  country  round  to  the  diftance  of  10  miles. 
The  farmers  fend  it  in,  and  leave  the  price  to 
be  fixed.  The  raifmg  the  mill  and  offices, 
complete,  cofl  20,000 1.  and  has  eftabliihed, 
in  a  fine  corn  country,  a  conftant  market; 
and  has  preferved  the  tillage  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, which  would  have  declined  from  the 
premium  on  diftant  carriage. 

The  flour  is  fent  to  Dublin,  and  the  ma- 
nufacturing country  to  the  North  about  New- 
ry,  &c. 

It  employs  conflantly  from  10  to  12  hands; 
the  common  ones,  6s.  6d.  a  week. 

They  fow  much  earlier,  and  the  corn  is 
drier  of  late  years  than  at  firft. 

The  carriage  of  all  the  flour  that  is  not  fent 
by  the  navigation  is  by  one  horfe  cars,  which 
carry  6  cwt.  of  flour  twice  a  week  to  Dublin. 

The  parifh  of  Monknewton,  in  the  county 
of  Meath,  lying  between  Drogheda  and  Slaine, 
nearly  midway,  formerly  belonging  to  the  rich 
abbey  of  Melifont  (whofe  beautiful  gothic 
ruins  are  in  the  neighbourhood',  confifts  of 
very  fine  corn  land,  and  moftly   belongs  to 

John 


MONKNEWTON.        47 

John  Baker  Holroyd,  Efq*  of  Sheffield  place, 
in  the  county  of  SufTex :  a  gentleman^  who 
having  favoured  me  before  with  excellent  in- 
telligence in  that  country,  took  pleafure  in 
repeating  it  on  occasion  of  my  Irifli  tour. 

Towards  Mattock  bridge,  the  foil  is  a  light 
rich  loam,  but  the   North  Weilern  part  is  a 
ftrona;  fertile  clay.      The  whole   eftate    had 
beenlet  out  to  two  or  three  coniiderable  peo- 
ple for  61    years,  and  they  under-let    in  the 
ufual  ftyle  of  the  country.     The  leafes  ex- 
pired in'  1762,  when  Mr.  H.  vifited  the  eftate, 
and  found  it  as  ill  ufed  as  it  poiiibly  could  be. 
However,  great  rents  were  offered.     He  de- 
clined the    propofals   of  feveral,  confiderable 
men,  to  take  the  whole  to  under-let  at  rack 
rents  as  before,  knowing  that  the  fame  wretch- 
ed hufbandry  and  poverty  muft  continue,  if 
he  did,  although   it   would   fecure    his  rents 
moft  effe&ually.     He  was  very  well  fatisfied 
with  the  rents  offered  by  per  ions  who  would 
'  reiide  on  the  eftate,  (dividing  with  them  the 
profits  of  the   middle  man),  and  voluntarily 
engaged  to  pay  for  the  mafonry  and  principal 
timber  of  farm-houfes,  barns,  ftables,  &c.     He 
made  large  ditches,  planting  them  with  quick, 
round  each  farm.     He  allowed  half  the  ex- 
penfe  of  inner  fences.     He  provided  an  excel- 
lent lime-ftone  quarry  in  the  neighbourhood, 
befides  lime  kilns  on    different   farms.      He 
built  about  the  centre  of  the  eftate  a  very 
large  double   kiln,  calculated  to   burn    1000 
barrels  per  week.     He  allows  30s.  for  every 

acre 


48       MONKNEWTON. 

acre  on  which  ioo  barrels  of  unilacked  iime 
fhall  be  hid,  within  a  certain  number  of 
years,  and  on  condition  that  the  land  hath  a 
winter  and  fummer  fallow  at  the  fame  time. 
In  fome  in  fiances  he  allows  40s.  per  acre, 
which  is  nearly  the  whole  expenfe  of  liming; 
and  in  fome  instances,  when  iool.  is  laid  out 
on  an  houfe,  he  allows  50  or  60I.  but  as  yet, 
no  great  advantage  is  taken  of  his  encourage- 
ment to  build.  He  endeavoured  to  prevent 
the  fcattered  flyle  of  building;  to  have  the 
barns,  {tables,  &c.  built  round  a  farm  yard, 
and  that  the  houfe  fhould  have  a  itory  or 
floor  above.  Some  objected,  that  a  floor  raifed 
an  houfe  too  high,  and  expofed  it  too  much  : 
the  eftate  is  rather  low  as  to  fituation,  and 
fheltered  by  hills  on  every  fide,  but  I  under- 
ftand  fome  considerable  houfes  are  to  be  built 
next  year.  The  common  farmers,  however, 
prefer  living  on  the  ground,  furrounded  by- 
mud  walls,  have  no  idea  of  the  chearfulnefs 
of  large  windows,  but  let  in  barely  light 
enough  to  do  their  bufinefs  through  apertures 
not  much  better  than  loop  holes ,  neither  has 
the  encouragement  to  lime  been  taken  advan- 
tage of  in  the  degree  it  might  be  expe&ed. 
Mr.  H.  is  an  hearty  well-wifher  to  Ireland, 
and  ready  to  embrace  any  fcheme  of  improve- 
ment for  its  advantage.  He  wifhed  to  make 
fome  return  to  the  country  for  fpending  the 
income  of  the  eftate  out  of  it.  He  was  rea- 
dy to  allow  almoft  the  whole  of  every  expenfe 
that  could  be  laid  on  the  lands,  knowing  the 

poverty 


MONKNEWTON.        49 

poverty  of  the  common  Irifh  refiding  tenan- 
try, and  their  characters  to  be  fuch,  that 
they  could  not  improve  them  as  they  fhould 
bGj  yet  I  underftand  they  are  not  much  bet- 
ter fatisfied  than  other  tenants:  and  the  rent 
feems  high.  The  farms  were  moflly  let  at 
a  time  when  the  fpirit  of  taking  land  W'as 
greater  than  at  prefent,  but  it  is  far  from  an 
high  rent  for  land  fo  circumftanced  and  fitu- 
ated,  built  and  improved  at  the  cxpenfe  of 
the  landlord.  Th^re  is  much  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, efpecially  towards  Drogheda,  let 
at  two  guineas,  and  three  pounds  and  up- 
wards, per  acre.  He  is  a  great  friend  to  agri- 
culture, has  coniidered  the  fubjecl:  much,  and 
was  very  anxious  to  introduce  fomething 
like  the  bell:  Englifh  husbandry  on  his  Irifh 
eftate,  but  that  is  ftill  at  a  great  diflance.  He 
endeavoured  to  break  through  the  barbarous 
cuftom  of  having  the  whole  farm  laid  wafte 
at  the  end  of  a  leafe,  and  every  inch  plough- 
ed up,  but  could  not  carry  his  point  fur- 
ther, than  by  giving  great  prefent  advantages 
to  the  tenants,  to  induce  them  to  agree,  that 
the  third  part  of  the  farms  ihould  not  be 
ploughed  the  laft  four  or  five  years  of  the 
leafe.  The  foil  is  fo  good,  that  if  ufed  ever 
fo  ill  in  that  time,  it  will  recover,  and  there 
will  be  a  very  good  fward.  According  to 
the  common  method  of  leafing  lands  in  many 
parts  of  Ireland,  the  country  is  nearly  waiie 
and  unprofitable,  to  the  great  prejudice  of 
the  public,  during  feven  or  eight  years  in 
Vol.  I.  E  every 


50       MONKNEWTON. 

every  31  years,  the  ufual  leafe.  For  the  te- 
nant, not  retrained  by  proper  claufes,  nor 
obliged  to  any  particular  management,  or  to 
manure,  ploughs  up  every  thing,  and  for 
fome  time  before  the  expiration  of  his  term, 
purfues  the  molt  ruinous  fyftem  for  the  land, 
difpofed  even  to  lofe  fome  advantage  himfelf, 
rather  than  his  fuccelTor  fhould  have  any  be- 
nefit -,  confequently,  the  three  or  four  lall 
years  the  crops  hardly  pay  expenfes,  and 
three  or  four  years  more  are  loft  before  it 
can  be  brought  into  any  condition.  Good 
and  ftraight  roads  are  made  through  and  acrofs 
the  eftate,  and  bridges  built  where  neceifa- 
ry.  Such  a  difpoiltion  in  the  landlord  to  im- 
prove, muft  do  much  for  the  country. 

Notwithftanding  the  attention  that  has 
been  paid  to  the  efhte,  the  young  white 
thorn  hedges,  (of  which  a  s;reat  quantity  had 
been  planted,  and  which  grew  moft  luxuri- 
antly) ferve  as  fpring  food  for  fheep  and 
other  cattle.  The  eftate  is  now  divided  into 
farms,  from  70  to  150  acres,  and  let  in  ge- 
neral for  31  years,  at  40s.  and  35s.  per  acre, 
fome  part  at  30s.  and  a  fmall  part  at  26s. 
The  lands  are  tythe-free,  and  there  are  no 
taxes  of  any  kind  paid  by  the  tenants,  except 
aiTeifments  for  making  and  repairing  the  roads 
of  the  barony,  which  fome  years  amounted 
to  iod.  per  acre,  and  is  laid  on  by  the  grand 
jury  at  the  aiiizes. 

July 


MONKNEWTON.        51 

July  1  ft,  left  Slaine,  taking  the  road  to- 
wards Kells.  Galled  at  Gibbs  town,  where 
Mr.  Gerard  has  one  of  the  moil  considerable 
farms  in  the  country.  He  very  kindly  (hew- 
ed me  it,  and  explained  the  management  His 
bullocks  he  buys  in  October  at  iol.  each,  and 
fells  them  in  fummer  with  4I.  piofit:  the 
cows  in  May,  at  5I.  10  s.  and  fells  them 
before  winter  from  30s.  to  40s.  profit.  He 
mows  100  acres  of  hay  for  the  fheep  and  bul- 
locks, and  keeps  good  after-grafs  befides. 
The  bullocks  in  winter  have  nothing  but  hay 
and  grafs,  and  are  always  in  the  fields,  there 
being  no  fuch  thing  in  this  country  as  fod- 
dering yards  for  winter  feeding.  Two  bul- 
locks require  three  acres.  The  fields  being 
generally  large,  a  proportion  of  ftack  is 
thrown  to  each,  which  are  left  to  fat  j  but  if 
any  do  not  feem  to  thrive  well,  they  are 
drawn  from  them  and  put  into  better  food. 

The  fheep  Mr.  Gerard  buys  in  October, 
three  year  old  wethers,  at  25s.  he  begins  to 
fell  in  April,  and  by  Auguft  they  are  gene- 
rally gone  at  about  35s.  on  an  average.  Fat- 
ting, in  this  manner,  he  thinks  more  advan- 
tageous than  ewes  and  lambs.  The  winter 
fheep  have  hay  in  bad  weather. 

The  beft  cattle  come  from  Galway,  Mayo, 

and  Rofcommon.     Mr.  Gerard  thinks  the  crofs 

of  the   Englim   breeds    in  Ireland  has    done 

good,  except  in   the   hides,  which   are  much 

E  2  thinner 


52       MONKNEWTON. 

thinner  from  them.     A  g;ood  hide  is  worth  3I. 
or  4I.  but  in  common  from  30s.  to  40s. 

The  foil  of  this  neighbourhood  is,  much  of 
it,  a  dry  ftoney  loam,  which  wants  no  drain- 
ing ;  and  whenever  red  clover  is  fown  and 
left,  the  white  comes  in  perfecl  fheets,  but 
the  bottoms  are  ftrong  land,  wet'  and  had. 
All  the  dry  lands  would  do  perfectly  well  for 
turnips;  Mr.  Gerard  tried  them,  and  got  fine 
crops :  but  the  poor  ftole  them  in  car  loads, 
which  made  him  leave  off  the  practice. 

Under  the  boggy  bottoms  there  is  a  very 
fine  white  marleT  of  a  fort  I  have  not  feen  in 
England;  it  is  under  four  feet  of  black  bog, 
and  lies  in  a  flratum,  14.  feet  thick,  on  blue 
gravel ;  it  is  always  found  under  the  black, 
not  the  red  bog;  it  cuts  with  turf  fpades, 
quite  like  white  butter,  but  in  the  air  falls 
into  a  fandy  powder  to  appearance :  it  is  un- 
commonly light  in  the  hand,  and  has  a  very 
great  efTervefcence  with  acids,  as  I  tried.  Mr. 
G.  has  marled  109  acres,  and  found  the  bene- 
fit immenfe.  Lays  2  or  300  barrels  an  acre, 
and  always  on  tillage. 

He  has  made  many  covered  drains  with 
ftones,  the  efFeit  of  which  is  great ;  and  he 
has  his  fields  fenced  in  the  molt  perfecl  man- 
ner by  deep  ditches,  high  banks,  and  well 
planted  hedges. 

One 


GIBBSTOWN.         53 

One  third  of  the  county  of  Meath,  he 
thinks,  islet  to  fub-tenants ;  a  farm  of  noo 
acrto  near  him  is  fo,  and  does  not  produce  a 
tytheof  what  it ''ought  to  do.  For  flocking, 
&c  a  grazing  farm  of  iooo  acres,  2000L  does; 
3000I.  would  do  it  well. 

Corn-acres  are  common  here,  which  is  to  let 
the  land  for  3I.  1  5s.  to  4I.  an  acre  to  the  poor 
for  three  or  four  crops;  who  generally  fow 
oats,  but  fometimes  wheat. 

Reached  Lord  Beclive's  in  the  evening, 
through  a  very  fine  country,  particularly  that 
part  of  it  from  which  is  a  profpeel  of  his  ex* 
tenfive  woods.  No  perfon  could  wTith  more 
readinefs  give  me  every  fort  of  information 
than  his  iordihip. 

The  improvements  at  Headfort  muft  be  af- 
tonifhing  to  ihofewho  knew  the  place  feven- 
teen  years  ago  ;  for  then  there  w7ere  neither 
building,  walling,  fcojr  plantations:  at  prefent 
almoit  every  thing  is  created  neceilary  to  form 
a  corifiderable  residence.  The  houfe  and  offi- 
ces are  intirtly  new  built  ;  it  is  a  large  plain 
ftone  edifice.  The  body  of  the  houfe  145 
feet  long,  and  the  wings  each  180.  The  hall 
is  31  I  by  24,  and  17  high.  The  faloon  is  of 
the  fame  diraenfions,  on  the  left  of  which  is 
a  dining  room,  48  by  24,  and  24 high:  on  the 
right,  a  drawing  room  24  fquare  by  17  high, 
and,  within  that,  Lady  Beclive's  dreifing-room, 

2$b 


54        H    E     A    D    F    O    R    T. 

23  by  18.  There  are  alfo,  on  this  floor,  a 
breakfaiWoom,  23  by  18,  and  a  room  for 
Lord  B.  of  the  Tame  fize.  The  firft  floor  con- 
firms of  fix  apartments,  one3H  by  24,  two  24 
fquare  ;  a  fourth  23  by  19? ;  a  fifth  20  by  18; 
a  fixth  23  by  ig,  all  15  high,  befides  two 
drefTmg  rooms.  From  the  thicknefs  of  the 
walls,  I  fuppofe  it  is  the  cuftom  to  build  very 
fubftantially  here.  The  grounds  fall  agreea- 
bly in  front  of  the  houfe,  to  a  winding  nar- 
row vale,  which  is  filled  with  wood,  where 
alfo  is  a  river,  which  Lord  Be&ive  intends 
to  enlarge ;  and,  on  the  other  fide,  the  lawn 
fpreads  over  a  large  extent,  and  is  every 
where  bounded  by  very  fine  plantations.  To 
the  right,  the  town  of  Kells  is  piclurefquely 
fituated,  among  groups  of  trees,  with  a  fine 
waving  country  and  diftant  mountains  j  to 
the  left,  a  rich  trad  of  cultivation.  The 
plantations  are  very  numerous,  more  thriv- 
ing I  have  no  where  feen ;  the  larch,  fpruce, 
and  beech,  in  particular,  running  beyond  the 
reft,  but  the  bark  of  all  is  clear,  and  there 
cannot  be  a  better  fkn  of  a  tree's  health  and 
vigour. 

His  Lordfhip  tranfplants  oaks  20  feet  high 
without  any  danger,  and  they  appear  to  thrive 
perfectly  well,  but  he  takes  a  large  ball  of 
earth  up  with  the  roots.  He  confirmed  what 
had  been  mentioned  to  me  before,  that  the 
way  to  make  our  own  firs  equal  to  foreign, 
was  to  cut  them  in  June,  and  directly  to  lay 
them  in  water  for  three  or  four  months.  This 

was 


HEADFORT.        55 

was  done  by  his  father  35  years  ago,  and  the 
buildings  raifed  of  them  are  now  fully  equal 
to  thofe  built  of  Norway  fir. 

Befides  thefe  numerous  plantations,  con- 
fiderable  manfion,  and  an  incredible  quantity 
of  walling,  his  lordfhip  has  walled  in  26  acres 
for  a  garden  and  nurfery,  and  built  fix  or 
feven  very  large  pineries,  90  feet  long  each. 
He  has  built  alfo  a  farm-yard  280  feet  fquare, 
totally  furrounded  with  offices  of  various 
kinds. 

His  Lordfhip's  idea  is  not  that  of  farming, 
but  improving  the  lands  about  the  houfe  for 
beauty ;  for  if  let,  they  would  be  deftroyed 
and  ploughed,  and  alfo  for  preferving  the 
plantations.  Other  lands  he  keeps  only  to 
bring  them  into  order  for  re-letting.  He  ap- 
plies his  grafs  befides  horfes,  to  fattening 
cows,  which  he  buys  in  in  May,  from  3I,  15s. 
to  4I.  1  os.  and  in  five  or  fix  months  fells 
them,  with  35s.  to  40s.  profit.  His  mules  are 
16  or  17  hands  high,  and  he  finds  them  of 
incomparable  ufe:  they  are  in  their  prime  at 
20  years  old,  and  good  even  at  35  ;  he  has  had 
them  16  years,  and  in  that  time,  with  the 
work  they  have  done,  would  have  worn  out 
three  fets  of  horfes,  befides  being  kept  upon 
lefs  food.  Of  hay  he  gets  17  or  1 8  load  an 
acre  of  4  cwt. 

In  the  breed  of  his  cattle,  Lord  Beclive  is 
very  attentive;    he  fcnt   into  Craven   for  a 

prime 


S6       HEADFORT. 

prime  bull,  and  got  one,  which  coll  him  36 
guineas  at  a  year  old,  and  he  is  indeed  a  very 
fine  beaft.  This  is  the  breed,  which  from 
much  experience  he  prefers,  as  well  for  milk- 
ing as  for  fattening.  The  Holdernefs  he  has 
tried,  having  a  very  fine  bull,  but  is  deter- 
mined to  have  nothing  more  to  do  with  them: 
the  flefh  is  black  and  coarfe ;  and  though  they 
give  more  milk  than  the  others,  yet  it  will 
not  make  a  quantity  of  butter  proportioned. 
The  common  cow  of  the  country  is  as  good  as 
any  for  mere  milking. 

All  Lord  Bective's  gates  are  iron,  which 
coft  him  5I.  5s.  and  as  wooden  ones  come  to 
3I.  3s.  he  finds  them  the  greateft  improvement, 
laving  the  expenfe  verv  foon.  In  his  tillage 
he  purfues  the  pra&ice  of  the  country,  which 
is,  1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats, 
but  does  not  take  the  laft  crop  of  oats.  He 
limes  160  barrels  an  acre  on  his  fallow,  but 
the  common  quantity  only  80,  by  means  of 
which,  and  better  hufbandry,  he  has  10  bar- 
rels an  acre  of  wheat,  and  20  of  oats ;  while 
the  common  crops  are  7  of  the  one,  and  12  of 
the  other.  Marie  he  has  found  an  excellent 
manure  for  dry  foils. 

The  general  rent  of  the  neighbourhood  20s. 
Of  the  whole  county  18  s.  6  d.  Land  fells  at 
21  years  purchafe  at  rack  rent. 

The  cottars  plant  great  quantities  of  pota- 
toes, giving  for  rent  4I.  10s.  the  crop  from  70 
to  100  barrels.     This  culture  has  increafed  20 

fold 


DRUESTOWN.        57 

fold  within   20  years.     All  the  hogs   in  the 
country  are  fattened  on  them  half  boiled. 

In  July,  Auguft,  and  September,  they  have 
great  numbers  of  Connaught  labourers;  they 
are  called  Jpalpeens  :  fpal,  in  Irifh,  is  a  fcythe, 
and  peen  a  penny;  that  is,  a  mower  for  a 
penny  a  day,  but  that  is  80  years  ago. 

Lord  Bedive's  father  was  one  of  the  greateft 
improvers  I  have  heard  of.  He  bought  io,oco 
acres  of  bog  and  rough  land  in  the  county  of 
Cavan,  much  at  the  rent  of  only  2od.  an  acre  : 
he  drained  and  improved  the  bog,  though  a 
red  one,  divided  it,  and  brought  it  to  be'fuch 
good  land,  that  it  is  now  15s.  an  acre;  part 
of  it  was  dry  rocky  land,  which  he  divided  by- 
walls. 

July  3d,  took  my  leave  of  Lord  Bedive, 
and  went  to  Drueftown,  the  feat  of  Barry 
Barry,  Efq;  but  as  I  was  not  fortunate  enough 
to  find  him  at  home,  I  could  only  obferve  in 
general,  that  he  had  a  large  lawn  very  well 
laid  down  to  grafs,  and  had  made  a  very  pretty 
lake  with  a  fhrubbery  on  the  banks  of  it. 
About  this  neighbourhood  all  the  good  land 
is  applied  to  grazing,  and  lets  from  2$  to  35s. 
an  acre,  the  reft  20s.  But  towards  Fore  I 
palled  by  much  that  was  greatly  inferior,  for 
when  laid  down,  (that  is  left  to  itfelf)  no 
white  clover,  or  very  little  came,  and  it  feem- 
ed  quite  uninclofed ;  yet  this  I  found  was  at 
14  or  15s.  I  obferved  here  that  the  cottars 
were  not  fo  well  cloathed  as  hitherto. 

Reached 


58       PA.CKENHAM. 

Reached  Packenham-hall,  pleafantly  fitu- 
ated,  with  much  old  wood  about  it,  where 
Lord  Longford  received  me  with  the  moil: 
friendly  attention,  and  gave  me  very  valuable 
information.  For  the  following  particulars  of 
the  neighbouring  hufbandry  I  am  obliged  to 
him.  Farms  rife  from  20  to  iool.  a  year,  in 
general  60  or  Sol.  but  few  larger.  The  foil 
heavy,  loam  eight  or  nine  inches  deep  upon 
from  12  to  18  inches  of  yellow  til/,  under 
which,  lime-ftone  gravel  10  feet  deep  on 
rock,  alfo  dry  found  gravel,  lets  from  1 5  to 
20s.  Average  rent  of  the  county  of  Weft- 
meath,  exclufive  of  walie,  9s.  including  it 
*7S.     The  courfes  of  crops  moll:  common  : 


1.  Potatoes 

1.  Potatoes 

2.  Bere 

2.  Flax 

3.  Oats 

3.  Oats 

4.  Oats 

4.  Oats 

5.  Oats 

5.  Oats 

and  oats  longer  if  the  land  will  bear  it,  even 
till  they  do  not  get  three  barrels  an  acre,  and 
then  leave  it  to  cover  itfelf.  x\mong  the  bet- 
ter farmers ; 

1.  Fallow  manured  with  lime-ftone  gravel. 

2.  Wheat  or  bere. 
9.  Oats. 

4.  Oats. 

They  fow  one  barrel  of  wheat,  and  get 
feven  per  acre"  ;  fow  one  and  a  half  of  bere, 
and  get.  15  or  16;  of  oats  one  and  a  half,  the 
crop  10  or   11  at  firft,   and  decreafes  every 

year 


PACKENHAM.       59 

year  till  nothing  but  weeds.  The  cotters  all 
ibw  flax  on  bits  of  land,  and  drefs  and  fpin  it, 
and  it  is  woven  in  the  country  for  their  own 
ufe,  befides  felling  fome  yarn.  The  little  far- 
mers keep  no  Iheep. 

The  chief  improvements  of  waftes  are  the 
bottoms  adjoining  to  the  bogs,  which  they 
drain  and  cover  with  gravel  or  earth,  that 
produce  good  potatoes. 

No  other  way  of  laying  land  to  grafs,  than 
fowing  red  clover,  or  oftener  nothing,  and 
leaving  it. 

Meadows  for  the  year  let  from  3  to  4I.  an 
acre,  merely  for  the  hay,  upon  which  they  get 
10  load  an  acre.  Grafs  is  mofily  applied  to 
fattening  cows  which  they  buy  in  in  May  at 
4I.  and  fell  in  November  at  61.  one  acre  of 
good  land  will  do  for  them,  but  if  not  good 
one  and  a  half. 

The  cows  give  two  to  three  gallons  of  milk 
a  day,  and  yield  40s.  produce  per  year  by 
butter  and  calf.  Feed  them  in  winter  with 
oat-ftraw,  and  hay.  An  ox  hide,  if  it  weighs 
100  lb.  three  pence  per  lb.  if  not  two-pence 
halfpenny.  A  ccw  hide  two-pence  halfpenny 
if  above  60  lb.  if  lefs  two-pence.  Dearer  than 
they  were. 

The  tillage  is  all  done  with  horfes,  ufe  four 
in  a  plough,  and  do  better  than  half  an  acre 
a   day.     The  price  with  harrowing  10s.  an 

acre. 


60       PACKENHAM. 

acre.  The  depth  fix  inches  for  winter  corn ; 
they  lay  the  lands  in  round  ridges  four  or  five 
feet  broad.  Keeping  a  horfe  the  fummer  at 
grafs  il.  i os.  No. cutting  chaff,  but  throw 
their  own  away  in  the  winnowing.  The  hire 
of  a  car,  and  horfe,  and  driver,  ten-pence 
a  day.  In  hiring  and  flocking  farms,  they 
will  take  one  of  50  acres,  without  any  thing 
but  four  horfes  and  fix  cows,  depending  for 
food  upon  what  they  bring;  for  labour  upon 
themfelves  and  the  cotters  that  come  with 
them  $  and  make  none  or  fcarce  any  profit. 

Land  fells  at  21  years  purchafe  rack  rent, 
rents  have  fallen  25  per  cent  fince  1770.  In 
1768,  1769,  and  1770,  they  were  much  above 
their  value.  Tythes  are  compounded  for, 
wheat,  bere,  and  barley  7s.  oats  5s.  meadow  2s. 
fheep  3d.    No  tea  drank. 

Leafes  common  are,  31  years  to  catholicks, 
and  three  lives  to  proteftants.  Great  part  of 
the  country  let  to  middle  men,  who  re-let  it 
to  fub-tenants,  generally  with  a  profit  greater 
than  they  pay  the  landlord.  Carry  their  corn 
to  the  mill  of  Carrick  five  miles  off.  Rents  of 
cabbins  20  to  25s.  with  a  rood  of  ground,  if 
land  with  it,  which  is  generally  the  cafe,  they 
pay  30s.  an  acre.  For  grazing  a  cow  2£s. 
and  for  a  horfe  30s.  No  emigrations.  Twen- 
ty to  one  of  the  lower  people  Roman  Ca- 
tholics. 

Expenfe  of  building  a  cabbin  40s.  and  for 
a  farm  of  50  acres  5I.  They  will  hire  farms 
and  take  all  the  buildings  upon  themfelves. 

Both 


PACKENHAM.  61 
Both  cotters  and  little  farmers  are  in  a  worfe 
fituation  that  they  were  20  years  ago.  All  of 
them  have  turf  for  firing,  and  one  week's  la- 
bour in  a  year  will  fupply  a  cabbin. 

Cutting  turf  3d.  a  kifh  or  cubical  yard 

A  ditch  fix  feet  wide,  and  five  deep  2od. 

In  burning  lime,  a  kifh  of  turf  burns  2  bar- 
rels of  lime. 

Sells  at  the  kiln  at  6d.  a  barrel. 

Among  Lord  Longford's  farms  in  this  country 
are  the  following : 

276  acres  75  rent  1736  worth  now  250 

410 

240 

600 

140 
100 
270 
100 

334 
40 

300 

700 


410 

112 

ditto 

242 
I50DO 

g}7° 

ditto 

600 
400 

|n8 

ditto 

150 

49 

ditto 

122 

4i 

ditto 

270 

95 

ditto 

33° 

100 

ditto 

377 

334 

*773 

60 

16 

*739 

383 

150 

1749 

655 
150000 

§H 

ditto 

303 

121 

1750 

325 

236 

ditto 

457 

186 

1756 

1928  4504 

From  which  table  may  be  feen  the  compara- 
tive value  of  lands  in  40  years  ;  it  has  more 
than  doubled  in  go.  Grafs 


62      PACKENHAM. 

Grafs  land,  gravelled,  will  let  to  the  poor 
at  5I.  for  potatoes.  Very  good  old  grafs, 
without  any  manure,  4I.  4s.  and  as  much 
more  for  the  fecond  year  for  flax  :  after  that, 
would  give  jl.  for  oats,  and  they  will  give  5I. 
for  dunged  ftubble  for  potatoes. 


The  expenfes  per  acre, 

of 

a  crop 

; 

£-   '- 

d. 

Rent 

5   0 

0 

4  Barrels  of  feed 

1    0 

0 

Planting 

3  ° 

0 

Taking  up 

1  10 

0 

10  10 

0 

The  crop  80  barrels.     Prime  coft  2s.  6d. 

Lord  Longford  has  fome  black  bottom  land, 
as  it  is  called  here;  that  is,  black  red  bog  par- 
tially drained  ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  fome 
of  it  tolerably  dry  :  other  parts  fo  wet,  that  a 
beaft  can  fcarcely  venture  on  it  with  fafety. 
One  pait  is  a  reddifh  bog,  three  feet  deep, 
which  1 2  years  ago,  was  burnt  a  foot  deep  ; 
and  at  the  fame  time  open  drains  made  10 
feet  wide  at  top,  and  7  deep,  the  bog  being 
formed  by  the  drains  into  beds  40  feet  wide. 
The  fpontaneous  rubbifh,  heath  chiefly  is 
now  coming  fafc  again,  but  it  never  has  been 
cultivated;  where  the  fires  were  made  are 
fpots  of  fine  white  clover.  This  land,  at  pre- 
fent,  would  let  for  nothing,  but  it  is  highly 
improveable. 

His 


PACKENHAM.      63 

His  Lordfhip  has  had  two  acres  and  an  half 
of  turnips  on  juft  fuch,  and  the  crop  was  ex- 
ceedingly good:  he  has  always  remarked  in 
burning,  that  wherever  there  w7ere  many 
afhes,  there  are  furc  to  be  good  turnips.  The 
two  acres  and  an  half  kept  feven  bullocks, 
each  8  cwt.  and  fixty  fheep,  three  months. 
On  four  acres  of  the  fame  fort,  he  has  now  a 
crop  of  turnips  fown:  it  was  drained  10  years 
ago.  This  fummer  he  dug  it  over,  levelled 
it,  and  burnt  the  fpit  in  great  heaps  :  this 
digging  coft  3I.  10s.  an  acre.  The  burning  il. 
It  was  harrowed  with  bullocks,  which,  with 
feed,  &c.  he  reckons  10s.  in  all  5I.  an  acre, 
wrhich  expenfe  he  knows  by  experience  is  re- 
paid by  the  crop  of  turnips.  In  harrowing, 
if  a  bullock  in  a  foft  place  finks  in,  they  flip 
the  harnefs  off  him,  and  fet  the  others  to  drag 
him  out  by  the  horns,  fixing  the  rope  round 
the  horns  as  in  hoifting  an  ox  into  a  fhip. 

I  remarked,  uponthisl)oggy  bottom,  a  fmall 
plantation  of  Scotch  firs,  which  did  very  well, 
and  larch  flill  better.  Willows  will  not 
thrive.  A  gentleman  inclofed  and  drained  4 
acres,  which  he  planted  with  them,  and  they 
fhot  away  for  four  years,  but  then  all  died. 
They  do,  however,  very  well  in  the  turf  it- 
felf,  if  the  upper  furface  of  fpunge  is  cleared 
away.  In  improving  any  bogs,  Lord  Long- 
ford thinks  the  tillage  fhould  be  renewed  alter- 
nately with  grafs  every  fix  or  feven  years,  or 
it  will  cover  again  with  heath  (erica)  burning  it 
the  beft  way. 

Hi* 


64       PACKENHAM. 

His  lordfhip  has  tried  cabbages  feveral  times, 
and  he  finds  that  while  they  laft  they  are  bet- 
ter than  turnips,  but  prefers  the  latter  on  ac- 
count of  the  fhort  duration  of  the  former. 

Limeftone  gravel  he  has  tried  on  a  large 
^fcale,  lays  1000  loads  an  acre,  at  il.  ios.  ex- 
penfe,  if  it  is  in  the  field.  The  efFed  prodi- 
gious wherever  it  is  laid,  On  a  bare  rocky 
fpot  in  the  front  of  the  houfe,  where  the 
earth  had  been  cleared  away,  and  there  was 
no  vegetation  but  of  weeds,  fome  gravel  was 
fpead,  and  it  brought  up  an  exceeding  thick 
coat  of  white  and  red  clover.  It  is  alfo  infal- 
lible in  deftroying  mofs. 

July  4th,  Lord  Longford  carried  me  to  a 
Mr.  Marly's,  an  improver  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, who  has  done  great  things,  and  with- 
out the  benefit  of  fuch  leafes  as  proteftants  in 
Ireland  commonly  have.  He  rents  ioooacres* 
at  firft  it  was  at  2od.  an  acre,  in  the  next 
term  5s.  or  250I.  a  year,  and  he  now  pays  850L 
a  year  for  it.t  Alrnoft  the  whole  farm  is 
mountain-land ;  the  fpontaneous  growth  heath, 
&c.  he  has  improved  500  acres.  His  method 
has  been  to  grub  up  the  rubbifh,  and  then  to 
fummer  fallow  it,  and  to  manure  it  with  lime- 
ftone gravel  1400  load  an  acre,  at  the  expenfe 
of  2I.  2s.  Upon  this  he  fows  wheat  or  bere, 
gets  9  barrels  an  acre  of  wheat,  and  19  of 
bere,  then  oats  12  to  ^barrels.  After  which 
he   fallows  again,  and  finifhes  the  fecond  or 

third 


PACKENHAM.        65 

third  courfe  with  red  clover,  fown  with  bar- 
ley or  oats  after  wheat.  If  this  takes  very 
well,  he  leaves  it  to  turf  itfelf.  White  clo- 
ver comes  as  faft  as  the  red  wears  out  ^  for  the 
firft  four  or  five  years  it  fupports  only  fheep, 
but  as  it  improves,  which  it  does  very  faft,  he 
grazes  it  with  black  cattle. 

Lime  he  has  tried  inftead  of  gravel,  160 
barrels  an  acre  at  is.  but  it  did  not  better  than 
gravel  at  one-fourth  the  expenfe.  In  gravel- 
ling, the  beginning  of  the  pit  he  has  found 
good  for  nothing ;  and  the  deeper  it  is  dug,  it 
is  fo  much  the  better.  It  will  not  do  twice, 
but  will  laft  8  crops,  with  2  fallows. 

Juft  fuch  an  account  would  be  given  of 
marie  in  Norfolk,  if  they  pra&ifed  fo  bad  a 
courfe  of  crops.  Any  manuring  with  fo  pow- 
erful an  alcaly  as  marie  leaves  the  ground,  af- 
ter an  exhaufting  courfe  of  crops,  in  much 
worfe  order  than  it  found  it.  Would  but  the 
Irifh  farmers  purfue  the  Norfolk  fyftem,  of 
never  letting  two  crops  of  white  corn  come 
together,  they  would  not  then  find  their  gra- 
vel exhaufted  in  8  crops  :  it  would  probably 
laft  20,  and  in  that  management  they  might 
gravel  again  and  again. 

He  has  the  white  light  marie  under  boggy 
bottoms,  and  has  ufed  much  of  it,  but  does 
not  find  it  anfwer  fo  well  as  gravel. 

Vol.  I.  F  He 


66        PACKENHAM. 

He  applies  his  grafs  to  fattening  cows,  &c. 
in  the  fyftem  I  have  mentioned  more  than  once ; 
fheep  he  both  buys  in  to  fat,  and  keeps  his  own 
breeding  ftock. 

He  is  very  attentive  in  fattening  his  we- 
thers ;  he  buys  in  October  at  30s.  or  32s.  each, 
begins  at  Chriftmas  to  feed  them  with  bran 
and  oats,  one  quart  of  each  per  diem,  and  con- 
tinues it  for  three  months:  has  fold  at  3I.  5s. 
but  on  an  average  at  40s.  This  he  thinks 
better  and  cheaper  than  turnips,  which  he  has 
tried,  but  finds  too  dear  in  the  expenfe  of 
drawing,  and  if  fed  in  the  field,  thinks  half 
of  them  loft  -,  the  oats  at  5s.  6d.  a  barrel,  the 
bran  at  is. 

£•   *    * 

90  Days  oats  il.  fay  3  bufhels,  at  5s.  6d.  a 

barrel  - 

90  Ditto  bran  - 


0 

4 

1 

0 

0 

9 

0 

4 

10 

It  was  with  regret  I  heard  that  the  rent  of  a 
man  who  had  been  fo  ipirited  an  improver, 
fhould  be  raifed  fo  exceedingly.  He  merited 
for  his  life  the  returns  of  his  induftry.  But 
the  cruel  laws  againft  the  Roman  Catholics  of 
this  country,  remain  the  marks  of  illiberal 
barbarifm.  Why  fhould  not  the  induftrious 
man  have  a  fpur  to  his  induflry  whatever  be 
his  religion ;  and  what  induftry  is  to  be  ex- 
pected from  them  in  a  country  where  leafes 
for  lives  are  univerfal,  if  they  are  fecluded 
from  terms  common  to  every  one  elfe?  What 
mifchief  could  flow  from  letting  them   have 

ieafes 


PACKENHAM.        67 

leafes  for  life  ?  None ;  but  much  good  in  ani- 
mating their  induftry.  It  is  impoffible  thai 
the  profperity  of  a  nation  fbould  have  its  na- 
tural progrefs,  where  four  fifths  of  the  people 
are  cut  off  from  thofe  advantages  which  are 
heaped  upon  the  domineering  ariftocracy  of 
the  fmall  remainder. 

In  converfation  with  Lord  Longford  Tmade 
many  enquiries   concerning  the  ftate  of  the 
lower  claffes,  and  found  that  in  fome  refpe&s 
they  were  in  good  circumftances,  in  others  in- 
different ;  they  have,  generally  fpeaking,  fuch 
plenty  of  potatoes,  as  always  to  command  a 
bellyful;  they  have  flax  enough  for  ail   their 
linen,  moft  of  them  have   a  cow   and  fome 
two,  and  fpin  wool  enough  for  their  cloaths  ; 
all  a  pig,  and  numbers  of  poultry,  and  in  ge- 
neral   the  complete  family  of   cows,    calves, 
hogs,  poultry,  and  children,  pig   together   in 
the  cabbin  ;  fuel  they  have  in  the  utmoft  plen- 
ty; great  numbers  of  families  are   alfo   fup- 
ported  by  the  neighbouring  lakes  which  abound 
prodigioufly  with    fifh  ;  a  child  with  a  pack- 
thread and    a  crooked  pin,  will   catch  perch 
enough  in  an  hour  for  the  family   to  live  on 
the  whole  day,  and  his  Lordfhip  has  feen  500 
children  fifhing  at  the  fame  time,  there  being 
no  tenacioufnefs  in  the  proprietors  of  the  lands 
about  a  right  to  the  fifh  ;  befides  perch,  there 
is    pike   upwards    of  five  feet  long,   bream, 
tench,  trout  of  iolb.  and  as  red  as  a  falmon, 
and  fine  eels  ;  all  thefe  are  favourable  circum- 
ftances,  and  are  very  confpicuous   in  the  nu- 
merous and  healthy  families  among  them. 

F  2  Reverfe 


68        PACKENHAM. 

Revcrfe  the  medal :  they   are    ill   cloathed, 
and  make  a   wretched  appearance,  and  what 
is  worfe,  are  much  oppfeffed    by    many  who 
make  them  pay  too  dear  for   keeping  a  cow, 
horfe,  &c.      They    have    a    practice    alio  of 
keeping  accounts  with  the  labourers,  contriv- 
ing by  that  means,  to   let.  the   poor  wretches 
have   very  little  cafh  for   their   year's  work. 
This  is  a  great  oppreffion,  farmers   and  gen- 
tlemen keeping  accounts  with  the  poor   is  a 
cruel  abufe:  fo  many  days  work  for  a  cabbin 
— fo  many  for  a  potatoe  garden — fo  many  for 
keeping  a  horfe — and  fo  many  for  a  cow,  are 
clear  accounts  whieh  a  poor  man  can  under- 
ftand  well,  but  farther  it  ought  never  to  go ; 
and  when  he  has  worked  out  what  he  has  of 
this  fort,  the  reft  of  his  work  ought  punctu- 
ally to  be  paid  him  every  Saturday  nighu  An- 
other circumftance  mentioned  was  the  excef- 
five   practice  they    have  in  general  of  pilfer- 
ing.    They  fteal  every  thing  they  can  lay  their 
hands  on— and  I   fhould    remark,  that  this  is 
an  account   which   has    been    very    generally 
^iven  mc:    all    forts  of  iron  hinges,   chains, 
locks,  keys,  &c—  gates  will  be  cut  in  pieces, 
and  conveyed  away  in  many  places  as  faft  as 
built;  trees  as  big  as  a  man's  body,  and  that 
would  require   ten  men   to  move,  gone  in  a 
night.      Lord    Longford    has  had  the    new 
wheels  of  a  car  ftolen  as  foon  as  made.  Good 
ftones  out  of  a  wall  will  be  taken  for  a  fire- 
hearth,  &c.  though  a  breach  is  made  to  get  at 
them.     In  fhort,  every  thing,  and  even  fuch 
as  are  apparently  of  no  ufe  to  them — nor  is  it 
cafy  to  catch  them,  for  they  never  carry  their 

ftolen 


BELVIDERE.  69 

ftolen  goods  home,  but  to  fome  bog-hole. 
Turnips  are  ftolen  by  car  loads  j  and  two 
acres  of  wheat  pluckt  off  in  anight.  In  fhort, 
their  pilfering  and  ftealing  is  a  perfect  nui- 
fance  !  How  far  it  is  owing  to  the  opprefiion 
of  laws  aimed  folely  at  the  religion  of  thefe 
people,  how  far  to  the  conduct  of  the  gentle- 
men and  farmers,  and  how  far  to  the  mifchie- 
vous  difpofition  of  the  people  themfelves,  it 
is  impoflible  for  a  palling  traveller  to  afcertain. 
I  am  apt  to  believe  that  a  better  fyftem  of  law 
and  management  would  have  good  effects. 
They  are  much  worfe  treated  than  the  poor 
in  England,  are  talked  to  in  more  opprobrious 
terms,  and  otherwife  very  much  oppreffed. 

Left  Packenham-haU. 

Two  or  three  miles  from  Lord  Longford's, 
in  the  way  to  Mullingar,  the  road  leads  up  a 
mountain,  and  commands  an  exceeding  fine 
view  of  Loch  Derrevaragh,  a  noble  water 
eight  miles  long,  and  from  two  miles  to  half  a 
mile  over;  a  vait.  reach  of  it,  like  a  magnifi- 
cent river,  opens  as  you  rife  the  hill.  After- 
wards I  paffed  under  the  principal  mountain, 
which  rifes  abruptly  from  the  lake  into  the 
bolder!  outline  imaginable  ;  the  water  there 
is  very  beautiful,  filling  up  the  fleep  valts 
formed  by  this  and  the  oppofite  hills. 

Reached  Mullingar. 

It  was  one  of  the  fair  days.  I  faw  many  cows 
and  beafts,  and  more  horfes,  with  fome  wool : 
the  cattle  were  of  the  fame  breed  that  I  had  ge- 
nerally feen  in  coming  through  the  country. 

July 


7o        BELVIDERE. 

July  5th,  left  Mullingar,  which  is  a  dirty 
ugly  town,  and    taking   the   road  to  Tulla- 
more,  Hopped  at  Lord  Belvidere's,  with  which 
place  I  was  as  much  flruck  as  with  any  I  had 
ever  feen.      The   houfe   is    perched  on  the 
crown  of  a  very  beautiful  little  hill,  half  fur- 
rounded  with  others,  variegated  and  melting 
into  one  another.     It  is  one  of  the  molt  lin- 
gular places  that  is  any  where  to  be  feen,  and 
Spreading  to  the  eye  a  beautiful  lawn  of  un- 
dulating ground  margined  with  wood.     Single 
trees  are  Scattered  in  fome  places,  and  clumps 
in  others ;  the  general  effecT:  fo  pleafing,  that 
were  there  nothing  further,  the  place  would 
be   beautiful,    but   the  canvafs   is  admirably 
filled.     Lake  Ennel,   many  miles   in   length, 
and  two  or   three   broad,  flows  beneath  the 
windows.     It  is  fpotted   with  iflets,   a  pro- 
montory  of  rock   fringed  with   trees   fhoots 
into  it,  and  the  whole  is  bounded  by  diftant 
hills.     Greater  and  more  magnificent  fcenes 
are  often   met  with,   but  no  where  a  more 
beautiful  or  a  more  lingular  one. 

From  Mullingar  to  Tullefpace,  I  found 
rents  in  general  at  20s.  an  acre,  with  much 
re-let  at  30s.  yet  all  the  crops,  except  bere, 
were  very  bad,  and  full  of  w7eeds.  About  the 
latter  named  placea  the  farms  are  generally 
from  100  to  300  acres,  and  their  courfe,  1. 
Fallow.  2.  Bere.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats.  5.  Oats. 
Great  quantities  of  potatoes  all  the  way,  crops 
from  40  to  80  barrels. 

The 


CHARLEVILLE.      71 

The  road  before  it  comes  to  Tullamore 
leads  through  a  part  of  the  bog  of  Allen, 
which  feems  here  extenfive,  and  would  make 
a  noble  trad  of  meadow.  The  way  the  road 
was  made  over  it  was  fimply  to  cut  a  drain  on 
each  fide,  and  then  lay  on  gravel,  which,  as 
fail  as  it  was  laid  and  fpread,  bore  the  cars: 
along  the  edges  is  fine  white  clover. 

Part  of  Tullamore  is  well  built.  I  paifed 
through  it  to  Captain  Johnfton's  at  Charleville, 
to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  the  following  ac- 
count of  the  hufbandry  of  the  neighbourhood. 

Farms  around  Tullamore,  are  commonly 
100  to  300  acres,  but  fome  fmaller,  and  fome 
of  5  or  600.  The  foil  is  generally  a  dry 
found  gravelly  loam,  lets  from  12s.  to  18s. 
average  16s.  five  miles  every  way  around. 
Average  of  land  let  in  the  whole  county  15s. 
exclufive  of  bog.  He  thinks  that  one-feventh 
of  the  county  is  bog  or  mountain;  but  the 
latter  pays  from  is.  6d.  to  3s.  The  courfe  of 
crops : 

1.  Oats  on  lay,  fow  one  barrel  and  an  half, 

get  1  o  to  15. 

2.  Fallow. 

3.  Wheat,  fow  three-fourths   to    1    barrel, 

get  4  to  7  barrels. 

4.  Oats. 

1.  Oats. 

2.  Fallow. 

3.  Wheat. 

4.  Oats. 

5.  Peafe. 

1.  Potatoes 


?2     CHARLEVILLE. 
i.  Potatoes  on  grafs  with  dung,  or  burn- 
bating. 

2.  Bere,  fow  three-fourths  of  a  barrel,  get 

1 2  to  20  barrels. 

3.  Wheat. 

4.  Oats, 

5.  Fallow. 

Some  1.  Pare,  and  burn  for  turnips. 

2.  Potatoes  at  61.  an  acre  rent. 

3.  Bere. 

4.  Wheat. 
>  5.  Oats. 

6.  Fallow. 

They  are  exceedingly  late  in  fowing,  not 
fmifhing  their  wheat  and  bere  till  after  Chrift- 
mas.  They  fow  rape  on  low  grounds  by  the 
edge  of  bogs,  upon  paring  and  burning  for 
feed ;  they  get  1 2  to  1 5  barrels  an  acre,  worth 
from  12s.  to  20s.  a  barrel.  They  fow  it  on 
the  ground  without  covering  after  ploughing, 
and  the  rougher  the  land  the  better.  Sow 
rye  after  it,  and  then  oats,  getting  good  crops; 
and  lay  it  down  with  grafs  feeds  from  lofts,  or 
ray  grafs,  or  clover  and  trefoile.  For  turnips 
on  fallow,  plough  fometimes  thrice,  oftener 
twice,  lay  on  no  manure  for  them,  nor  hoe 
them,  get  very  bad  crops.  If  pare  and  burn 
they  plough  twice;  but  a  penalty  is  laid  of 
5I.  an  acre  for  doing  it.  They  eat  them  with 
fheep  both  drawn  and  on  the  land.  Very 
little  clover  fown.  Flax  is  fown  very  gene- 
rally, from  patches  up  to  three  or  four  acres, 
they  do  the  whole  of  it  themfelves,  fpinning 

and 


CHARLEVILLE.     73 

and  weaving.  About  Good  Friday  is  the 
time  of  fowing;  but  later  fown  is  bad.  The 
fky  farmers,  (and  often  the  better  fort)  that  is 
the  petty  ones,  let  potatoe  ground  for  it,  at 
61.  an  acre  to  cotters. 

Great  quantities  of  potatoes  in  the  trench- 
ing way,  and  all  the  dung   is  ufed  for  them. 
A  common  way  is,  for  the  farmers  to  let  them 
have  land  for  nothing,  upon  condition  of  their 
dunging  it,  which  all  do  that  have  not  land 
of  their  own:   if  not,  they  pay  from  4I.  to 
61.  dunged,  or  turnip   land  fed  with  fheep, 
which   they   prefer,  the  potatoes  being  drier 
and   better.     The  apple  potatoe  is  moft  ef- 
teemed,  becaufe   they   are  great  bearers,  laft 
through   the   fummer,    and  have   been    kept 
two  years.     Not  much  lime  ufed,  having  been 
tried,  but  has  not  anfwered ;  limeftone  gravel 
on  lay  to  be  broken  up,  has  a  very  great  effect. 
The  expenfe  10s.  or  1  5s.    The  grafs  is  chiefly 
applied  to  heifers,  or  ftore  bullocks  5  the  firft 
fold  in  fmall  parcels  at  home,  the  latter  at  Bal- 
Iynafloe  or  Bannagher.     They  buy  them  in  at 
a  year  or  two  years  old;  the  firft  30s.  to  50s. 
the  latter  from   55s.   to  57s.     Keep  them  a 
year  and  four  or  five  months,  or  only  a  year: 
in  a  year  they  will  make,  by  the  firft,  25s.  to 
30s.  and  from  30s.  to  40s.  by  the  others. 

Wherever  the  land  is  good  enough,  a  few 
cows  bought  in  for  fattening,  in  May,  at  il. 
15s.  to  5I.  and  fold  with  40s.  a  head  profit. 
The  poor  people  all  rear  calves. 

f  Many 


74     CHARLEVILLE. 

Many  fheep  bred;  the  beft  farmers  breed 
and  fell  them  fat  at  three  years  old,  wethers 
at  Michaelmas,  from  18s.  to  24s.  if  in  fpring, 
from  24s.  to  44s.  Clip  from  5  to  7  lb.  of 
wool. 

The  tillage  is  done  by  oxen,  four  in  a 
plough,  not  half  an  acre  a  day,  the  fky  far- 
mers fometimes  will  put  one  horfe  and  a  cow 
in.  Oxen  are  reckoned  beft.  They  cut  no 
chaff,  but  winnow  in  the  field. 

Hire  of  a  boy,  horfe  and  ear  is.  id. 

The  fky  farmer  will  take  40  or  50  acres, 
with  three  or  four  cows  and  a  horfe  or  two, 
and  5I.  5s.  in  their  pockets.  Tythes  are  com- 
pounded, 5s.  for  winter  corn,  3s.  for  fpring 
corn,  25s.  1000  fneep.    Mowing  ground,  5s. 

Land  fells  for  20  years  purchafe,  rack  rent 
has  fallen  two  years  purchafe  in  feven  years, 
and  the  rent  has  fallen  from  5s.  to  3s.  in  the 
fame  time.  No  tea.  County  cefs  6d.  Very 
few  middle  men  left.  Cottages  with  half  an 
acre,  let  for  20s.  with  two  acres,  which  is 
common,  40s.  No  emigrations.  Religion, 
lower  claries  all  Roman.  Not  one  cotter  in 
fix  has  a  cow  about  towns ;  but  in  the  coun- 
try, about  half  of  them  have.  Molt  of  them 
have  a  pig,  and  much  poultry.  They  are  not 
more  thieving  than  for  a  few  turnips  and  cab- 
bages for  their  own  ufe,  nor  that  to  any  ex- 
cels.    Many  of  the  poor  have  reclaimed  much 


CHARLEVILLE.      75 

bog,  the  premiums  of  the  Dublin  Society  have 
induced  them  to  do  it :  which  are  now  50s,  an 
acre :  by  gradual  draining,  either  from  cutting 
turf,  or  making  bounds,  or  from  drainings 
purpofely  done,  they  get  to  peat,  and  burn 
it  4  to  6  inches  deep,  at  20s.  an  acre,  and  fow 
bere,  rye,  or  potatoes;  the  bere  does  beft, 
and  next  year  another  crop  of  corn  •  and  then 
another  burning,  and  two  more  crops,  the 
potatoes  are  wet,  but  will  do  for  feed,  and 
they  will  efcape  the  froft  in  a  bog,  when 
they  are  killed  in  the  high  lands.  They  pay 
nothing  for  the  bog,  having  land  adjoining. 

They  lay  the  bits  down  to  grafs,  fowing 
feeds,  but  the  crop  is  generally  very  thin  and 
poor,  and  after  a  year  or  two,  burn  it  again ; 
fometimes  put  out  a  little  dung  or  gravel  on 
the  grafs,  and  plant  it  with  potatoes.  Some 
have  put  potatoes  in  upon  a  red  bog,  with  no 
other  preparation,  than  laying  a  poor,  fharp, 
fandy  gravel  on  it,  and  got  tolerable  crops. 

Mr.  Johnfton  has  cultivated  cabbages  for 
feveral  years.  In  1772  he  had  one  acre,  in 
1 773  21, and  ilnce  that,  between  1  and  2  acres 
every  year.  The  great  Scotch  fort  which  he 
fows  in  February,  and  plants  out  in  4  feet 
rows,  and  18  inches,  from  plant  to  plant,  the 
beginning  of  June.  If  the  plants  are  not  in 
the  ground  then,  the  crop  will  not  be  good. 
Ploughs  for  them  twice,  and  dungs  richly  in 
the  furrows.  Horfe  hoes  twice  or  thrice,  and 
hand  weeds  them ;  they  come  from  5-  to  1  £  lb. 

but 


76  R    A    T    H    A    N. 

but  have  always  began  to  burft  in  September. 
Has  ufed  them  for  fattening  fheep,  that  would 
not  fatten  on  giafs;  alfo  for  bullocks,  which 
throve  perfectly  well,  like  wife  the  leaves  with 
great  care  in  picking)  to  milch  cows,  but  the 
butter  tafted.  Finds  that  the  principal  ufe  of 
them  is  for  bringing  on  cattle  that  will  not 
finifh  at  grafs,  and  to  be  ufed  all  before 
Chriftmas.  Barley  that  has  been  fown  upon 
cabbage  land  which  fucceeded  potatoes,  a  vaft 
crop,  24  barrels  an  acre.  Turnips  Mr.  John- 
lion  has  had  for  thefe  ten  years,  from  1  to  4 
acres,  and, has  always  applied  them  to  fatten- 
ing fheep,  for  which  purpose  he  finds  them 
excellent-  and  beft  to  feed  in  the  field,  be- 
caufe  faft  in  the  ground  for  the  fheep  to  bite 
at,  provided  there  is  fome  grafs  for  them  to 
lie  on. 

Has  deviated  from  the  common  late  fowing 
of  wheat,  putting  his  inthe  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember, and  finds  his  harveft  fo  much  earlier, 
than  his  is  in  the  haggard  (reek  yard)  when 
others  are  cutting. 

His  tillage  he  performs  with  only  2  horfes. 
Mr.  Johnfton  is  a  great  friend  to  the  Irifh 
cars:  He  carries  10  to  I2cwt.  of  turf,  3  ffa- 
tute  kifhes  of  hard  ftone  turf,  each  horfe  10 
turns  a  day,  or  20  miles,  and  all  done  on 
grafs  alone. 

July  6th  went  to  Rathan,  where  Lord  Shel- 
burne  has  placed  a  Norfolk  bailiff,  Mr.  Van- 
cover, 


R     A    T    H    A    N.  77 

cover,  for  the  management  of  a  farm  he  took 
into  his  own  hands,  who  brought  with  him  a 
ploughman,  plough,  harrow  and  tackle.  The 
defiVn  does  honour  to  the  nobleman  who 
formed  it;  and  Mr.  Vancover  is  not  likely  to 
difappoint  him;  he  is  a  fenfible,  intelligent 
active  man,  who  wTent  through  all  the  manual 
part  of  farming  in  a  feven  years  apprenticefhip 
to  a  great  farmer  in  Norfolk.  I  found  him 
juft  what  I  could  wifh,  difgufted  neither  with 
the  country  nor  the  people,  pleafed  and  ani- 
mated with  the  profpect  of  improvement  be- 
fore him,  and  had  no  doubt  of  fuccefs.  He 
was  going  on  perfectly  well ;  ploughing  off 
the  turf  of  a  boggy  bottom,  adjoining  to  a 
great  bog  ;  burning  it  into  fmall  heaps,  and 
intending  immediately  to  plough  and  fow 
turnips,  of  which,  he  will  have  1 2  acres  this 
year,  and  purpofes  having  many  more  the  year 
after ;  he  has  cut  fome  very  long  drains  into 
the  bog,  defigns  attacking  it,  and  expects  to 
make  it  excellent  land,  though  initead  of 
ploughing  it  firft  for  burning,  he  muft  dig  it ; 
I  am  clear  he  will  not  be  difappointed  :  he  has 
a  fine  field  to  work  upon,  for  Lord  Shelburne 
has  4000  acres  of  bog  here.  The  high  parts 
of  the  farm,  are  a  rough  lime  ftone  land,  but 
very  dry  and  found,  he  defigns  in  winter, 
grubbing  the  rubbiih,  burning  all  the  ftone 
into  lime,  and  ploughing  it  for  turnips  the 
following  year.  Let  me  obferve,  that  this  is 
the  right  conduct  of  rough  land,  which  fhould 
always  be  brought  into  turnips  firft,  and  not 
fallowed  for  wheat,  as  all  the  Irifh  improvers 

do, 


78       SHAEN    CASTLE. 

do,  who  follow  their  wheat  with  fo  many 
crops  of  fpnngcorr ,  that  their  foil  is  prefent- 
ly  exhausted.  If  turnips  are  had,  dung  is 
gained,  and  the  land  in  order,  which  paves  the 
way  to  every  thing  elfe.  Too  much  cannot 
be  faid  in  praife  of  this  undertaking  of  Lord 
Shelbnrne's.  An  opening  is  made  by  it,  to  a 
new  field  in  hufbandry,  which  1  forefee  may 
prove  of  infinite  confequence  to  the  kingdom 
in  general.  Mr.  Vancover  being  acquainted 
with  feveral  modes  of  improvement  in  Eng- 
land, and  perfectly  verfed  in  the  Norfolk  huf- 
bandry, is  placed  with  great  judgment  where 
he  can  exert  both.  Perhaps  I  was  the  better 
pleafed  with  this  improvement  from  being  in- 
ftrumental  hi  procuring  his  lordfhip  the  perfon 
who  is  executing  it.  Near  this  place  is  a  farm 
of  1 50  acres,  and  1 500  bog,  to  be  let  on  a 
leafe  for  ever,  at  130I.  a  yeatv 

Went  from  Rathan  to  the  Glebe,  a  lodge 
belonging  to  Dean  Coote,  and  from  thence  to 
Shaen  cattle,  near  Mount-mellick,  his  refi- 
dence  ;  patted  near  large  tracts  of  mountain, 
wafte  and  bog  j  and  not  far  from  a  great  range 
of  the  bog  of  Allen,  Saw  but  little  good 
corn  j  they  were  burning  fome  boggy  bottoms 
in  order  to  fallow  for  bere ;  but  it  fhould  be 
for  turnips. 

For  the  following  particulars  I  am  indebted 
to  the  o!  Hging  attention  of  the  dean.  About 
Shaen  eaftle  farr^.s  of  40  or  50  acres  are  very 
common,  fome  few  rife  to  3  or  400.     The  foil 

is 


I 


SHAEN    CASTLE.       79 

is    either   lime-ftone,    lime-ftone    gravel,    or 
moor  j  lets  at  1 3s.  an  acre  on  a  medium. 

The  Course. 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  low  1  barrel,  pro- 
duce i;i.     3  Peas,  fow  I  barrel,  and  get  5  to  ioi 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats,  fow  2  bar- 
rels, get  8  to  15. 

Alfo,  1.  They  burn  moors  for  turnips  :  no 
hoeing,  draw  them  for  fheep.  2.  Barley  or 
bere,  fow  1  barrel  of  bere,  get  8  to  18.  Sow 
of  barley  1  barrel,  get  as  much  barley  as  bere. 
3.  Oats.  4.  Oats ;  after  which  they  leave  it 
to  graze  itfelf.  Alfo  on  moory  lands,  rape  or 
rye  inftead  of,  or  after  turnips. 

Flax  is  fown  by  all  poor  people  and  little 
farmers  for  their  own  ufe. 

Potatoes  are  fo  much  planted  that  all  the 
dung  of  the  country  is  applied  to  them ;  fome 
few  plant  them  with  the  plough,  but  it  does 
not  well,  unlefs  the  land  is  fummer  fallowed : 
the  chief  culture  is  in  the  gardens  of  the  cab- 
bins,  for  they  hire  no  land  of  the  farmers  for 
potatoes.  No  fheep  folding.  Lime-Hone  gra- 
vel is  much  ufed  for  tillage  land,  and  the  be- 
nefit found  great  for  fix  or  feven  crops. 

The  grafs  is  applied  to  fattening,  dairying, 
and  fheep.  Dairies  from  33  to  40  cows  are 
common  here  ;  they  keep  them  in  their  own 
hands.  An  acre  and  a  half  of  middling  grafs 
for  a  cow.     Some  make  butter,  but   none,  if 

the 


8o       SHAEN    CASTLE. 

the  cheefe  is  good,  ii  cwt.  of  cheefe  is  a 
good  produce  per  cow,  price  from  25  to  30s. 
per  cwt.  with  il.  is.  for  the  calf,  at  5  or  6 
weeks  old  :  rear  very  few. 

The  fattening  fyftem  is  to  buy  in  at  3I.  to 
61.  in  April,  May,  and  June,  and  fell  out 
with  30s.  or  42s.  profit,  quite  to  Chriftmas. 
Flocks  of  fheep  rife  to  5  or  600  -7  the  profit 
lamb  at  5s.  to  9s.  and  the  ewe's  wool  41b. 
In  the  winter  they  are  on  the  walks,  unlefs  irr 
froft  and  fnow,  when  they  get  fome  hay  or 
turnips.  Wool  1  5s.  to  17s.  a  ltone,  but  with- 
in 15  years  was  10s.  6d.  It  is  bought  up  by- 
combers,  who  keep  fpmners  in  the  country 
to  fpin  it  into  yarn,  which  is  fold  fo  factors 
for  foreign  markets.  They  are  much  trou- 
bled with  the  rot  upon  the  moors,  and  a  wet 
feafon  will  rot  them  even  on  lime-ftone  land. 
Plough  moilly  with  horfes,  uiing  4,  often  for 
the  fecond  time  of  fallowing  6  :  they  do  I  of 
an  acre;  4  bullocks,  which  gentlemen  and 
good  farmers  ufe,  will  do  f ,  price  7s.  an  acre. 
For  winter  corn  they  throw  the  lands  narrow, 
and  arched  up:  no  (hovelling  furrows,  but 
ftrikethem  with  the  plough.  Keeping  a  horfe 
3I.  3s.  a  year,  and  a  working  bullock  40s. 
Break  their  fallows  from  November  to  Fe- 
bruary. Hire  of  a  horfe,  boy,  and  car  from 
is.  id.  to  is.  4d. 

In  hiring  and  Hocking  farms  3I.  an  acre  they 
reckon  necelTary. 

Land 


S  H  A  EN  CASTLE.  81 
Land  fells  at  20  years  purchafe;  has  fallen 
in  5  or  6  years  2s.  to  6s.  an  acre,  in  general  5s. 
Tythes  are  compounded  for,  wheat  7s.  bere  6s. 
barley  5s.  oats  3s.  6d.  mowing  ground  3s. 
peafe  2s.  6d.  No  tea  in  the  cabbins,  nor  yet 
a  bellyfull  of  potatoes.  They  have  an  acre 
of  land  and  a  cottage  for  il.  is.  to  il.  ios.  and 
about  ~  of  that  in  potatoes,  they  buy  w\ 
they  have  not  of  their  own,  both  oats,  m 
or  potatoes :  a  barrel  of  potatoes  will  laft  a 
man,  his  wife,  and  four  children  a  weekj 
one  barrel  of  oats  will  yield  1  cwt.  of  oatmeal, 
which  fells  at  8s.  6d.  to  ios.  and  will  in  Jlir- 
about  laft  them  a  week,  that  is  the  fame  time 
as  a  barrel  of  potatoes.  They  in  general  keep 
a  cow  at  il.  is.  to  il.  ios.  but  they  mull  buy 
12s.  to  14s.  of  hay  for  her.  They  alfo  keep  a 
pig  on  offal. 

Stealing  is  very  common,  they  take  every 
thing  they  can  lay  their  hands  on,  yet  are  not 
fo  poor  here  as  in  Clare  and  Tipperary.  Corn 
all  carried  to  Dublin  for  the  premium,  that  on 
the  malt  and  flour  pays  all  the  expenfes,  but 
not  the  wheat.  Population  evidently  increafes. 
No  emigrations.  Religion  of  the  lower  claiTes 
all  catholick.  A  poor  man's  firing  14s.  or  1 5s. 

Expenfe  of  building  a  cabbin  3I.  3s.  of  fione 
and  flate  20L  all  to  a  farm  of  50  acres,  of  ftone 
and  flate  300I. 

In  converfation  upon  the  fubjed:  of  a  union 

with  Great  Britain,  1  was  informed  that  no- 

Vol.  I.  G  thing 


82       SHAEN     CASTLE, 
thing  was  fo  unpopular  in  Ireland  as  fuch  an 
idea;  and  that  the  great  objection  to  it  was    \ 
increafmg  the  number  of  abfentees.     When  it 
was  in  agitation,  20  peers  and  60  commoners 
were  talked  of  to  fit  in  the  Britifh  parliament, 
which  would  be  the  refident  of  80  of  the  bell 
eftates  in  Ireland.     Going  every  year  to  Eng- 
land would,  by  degrees,  make  them  reh'dents; 
they  would  educate  their  children  there,  and 
in  time  become  mere  abfentees.  becoming  fo 
they   would   be   unpopular,  others  would  be 
ele&ed,  who,  treading  in  the  fame  fteps,  would 
yield  the  place  (till  to  others;  and  thus,  by 
degrees,  a   vafc  portion  of  the  kingdom  now 
reiident    would    be    made    abfentees;    which 
would,    they   think,    be   fo   great    a  drain  to 
Ireland,  that  a  free  trade  would  not  repay  it. 

I  think  the  idea  is  erroneous,  were  it  only 
for  one  circumftance,  the  kingdom  would  lofe, 
according  to  this  reafoning,  an  idle  race  of 
country  gentlemen,  and  in  exchange  their 
ports  would  fill  with  fhips  and  commerce,  and 
all  the  confequences  of  commerce;  an  ex- 
change that  never  yet  proved  difadvantageous 
to  any  country. 

The  Dean's  improvements  of  bog  ground 
are  cxtenfive;  lie  drained  very  completely, 
and  then  ploughed  or  dug  it  for  burning, 
upon  which  fowed  meilin,  which  fucceeded 
very  well,  yielding.  13  barrels  an  acre.  Then 
oats  ploughed  for,  and  got  10  barrels;  and 
fowed  hay  feeds,  ray  grafs  (colium  peremie)  and 

clover 


SHAEN'CASTLE.  83 
clover  (trifolium  prate  rife : )  before  the  improve- 
ment began,  it  was  not  worth  is.  6d.  an  acre, 
but  made  it  14s. 

Another  part  of  the  bog  was  leveled  and 
burnt,  the  afhes  fpread,  and  turnip  feed  har- 
rowed in,  did  very  well,  fed  fheep  with  them ; 
after  which,  rubbifh,  clay,  and  lime-ftone  gra- 
vel fpread  on  it,  1000  load  an  acre,  or  40s. 
an  acre,  and  grafs  feeds  fovvn,  which  made  it 
worth  il.  is.  an  acre.  Turnips,  Dean  Coote 
has  had  thefe  20  years,  both  in  the  drill  and 
broad-caft,  and  found  the  drill  method  much 
the  beft,  but  owing,  I  apprehend,  to  the  hoe- 
ing of  the  broad-caft  not  being  well  perform- 
ed. Had  them  always  for  feeding  fheep,  and 
found  the  eating  equal  to  a  coat  of  dung. 

He  folded  his  flieep  for  two  years,  but  could 
not  bring  his  people  to  continue  it  without  too 
much  trouble. 

Lime  he  has  tried  much  on  the  lime-ftone 
ground,  but  did  not  find  it  anfwer  at  all. 

Would  recommend  in  the  improvement  of 
bogs,  to  begin  with  one  great  drain  round  the 
intended  improvement,  12  feet  wide  at  top, 
cut  to  the  gravel,  and  4  feet  wide  at  bottom  ; 
then  to  cut  crofs  drains  into  that,  which  alfo 
ought  to  go  down  to  the  gravel :  leave  it  for 
a  year,  if  it  is  bad  •  then  turn  it  up  with 
the  fpade  or  plough,  burn  it,  and  fow  turnips 
or  rape,  and  do  it  again  the  fame  next  year, 
G  2  with 


84  A    T    H    Y. 

with  a  fecond  burning,  after  which  oats  may 
be  had,  and  laid  down  to  grafs,  which  will 
be  good,  but  much  better  if  gravelled.  Dean 
Coote  has  received  from  the  Dublin  fociety 
feveral  gold  medals  for  the  improvement  of 
bog,  culture  of  turnips,  &c. 

July  8th,  left  Shaen  Caftle,  and  took  the 
road  towards  Athy;  breakfafted  with  Dean 
Wallh,  at  General  Walfh's,  in  that  gentle- 
man's abfence. 

The  General  is  a  confiderable  farmer,  and 
a  yet  greater  improver;  he  has  built  12  new 
farm  houfes,  alio  30  cabbins  that  have  90 
cows,  and  each  2  to  4  acres,  at  20s.  an  acre. 

He  has  tried  potatoes  with  the  plough,  in- 
ftead  of  the  trenching  way,  he  manured  2 
acres  of  Hong  land  with  400  load  of  dung, 
which  he  ploughed  in,  and  then  dibbled  the 
fets  in,  15  inches  fquare,  he  hand-hoed  them 
twice,  and  got  176  barrels  per  acre.  The 
common  crops  do  not  exceed  90  barrels. 

He  has  generally  7  or  8  acres  of  turnips, 
and  2  or  3  of  cabbages,  with  which  he  feeds 
both  cattle  and  llieep,  and  with  great  fuccefs. 
He  practices  tillage  principally  to  bring  his 
land  into  order,  and  throws  it  into  the  fol- 
lowing courfe. 

1 .  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Clover  or  tre- 
foile,  2  years. 

When 


A     T     H     Y.  85 

When  he  fows  barley  on  potatoe  land,  he 
gets  20  barrels  an  acre.  One  article  in  the 
management  of  his  eftate  cannot  be  too  much 
praifed  :  wherever  he  lets  a  farm  that  has  only 
a  common  ordinary  cabbin  on  it,  he  obliges 
the  new  tenant  to  build  a  good  houfe  of  flone 
and  flate,  allowing  him  confiderably  towards 
the  expenfe.  The  common  courfe  of  crops 
here  is, 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  yielding  from  7  to  9 
barrels.  3.  Barley,  1  5  barrels.  4.  Oats,  1 5  to 
20.     5.  Left  for  Grafs. 

The  poor  here  have  all  of  them  potatoes, 
as  far  as  their  dung  will  go:  when  they  hire 
g'rafs  land  to  plant  them  on,  the  account  of 
an  acre  is  as  follows : 


10  barrels  of  feed,  at  3s.  41I. 

Planting,  cutting,  &c. 

Second  trenching 

Weeding         - 

Taking  up,  40  men  a  day  at  7d. 

Rent         - 


L 

/. 

d. 

1 

13 

4 

1 

10 

0 

0 

1$ 

0 

0 

2 

6 

1 

3 

4 

3 

10 

0 

I-    8  14    2 


The  average  crop  80  barrels,  which  is  2s.  2d. 
a  barrel  prime  coft. 

They  have  them  the  year  round  in  plenty ; 
they  are  cheaper  than  oatmeal,  and  they  like 
them  better.     They  fow  very  little  flax,  and 

fomc 


$6  A     T    H    Y. 

fome  none  at  ali.  Many  of  them  are  matter 
of  a  car  and  horfe,  with  which  they  work  for 
hire  ;  alfo  one  or  two  pigs,  and  much  poultry 
by  means  of  their  potatoes. 

Leaving;  General  Walfh's,  palled  a  fine 
wood  on  the  right,  within  a  wall.  See  much 
good  wheat  and  bere  to  Athy.  Going  through 
that  town  the  road  leads  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  Barrow,  which  winds  through  the  vale 
to  the  right ;  the  verdure  beautiful,  and  the 
country  pleafant.  Pafs  over  much  light  dry 
fandy  gravelly  loam,  as  line  turnip  land  as  I 
ever  faw,  but  not  one  cultivated  in  the  coun- 
try. It  is  this  foil  all  the  way  from  Athy  to 
Carlow  ;  lets  from  16s,  to  20s.  an  acre.  The 
courfes  are: 

i.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  yielding  5  or  6  bar- 
rels. 

Alfo,  1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats,  and 
grafs  feeds,  or  left  to  turf  itfelf,  thev  ufe  lime 
with  fuccefs :  they  have  gravel,  but  that  does 
beftfor  ftrong  lands,  and  this  upon  land  form- 
ed for  20  barrels  a,n  acre  of  barley  after  tur- 
nips. Thefe  people  by  the  Norfolk  husban- 
dry would  make  a  crown  where  they  now  re- 
ceive fix-pence. 

Called  on  Mr.  Vicars  at  Ballynakill,  a  con- 
fiderable  grazier,  who  farms  near  2000  acres 
in  different  counties.  His  hufbindry  confifls 
chiefly  of  feeding  fheep  and  bullocks:  one 
fheep  fyftem  is  to  keep  ewes  for  breeding, 
the  fale  being  3  year  old  wethers,    fome  of 

the 


BROWNSHILL.  87 

the  oldeft  ewes  and  the  wool.  The  wethers 
fell  from  20  to  28s.  each,  and  the  quantity  of 
wool  21  to  a  ftone,  (the  ftone  of  wool  in  Ire- 
land 1 61b.)  Another  fyftem  is  to  buy  in  ewes 
in  autumn,  and  to  fell  the  lambs  fat,  and 
then  the  ewes.  Grazing,  in  this  country, 
confifts  in  buying  bullocks  in  Q&ober,  at  5I. 
or  6l.  each  ;  give  them  fome  hay  in  bad  wea- 
ther, and  fell  them  fat,  with  40s.  or  50s.  pro- 
fit. Cows  are  bought  in  in  May,  and  fold 
fat  from  harveft  to  autumn.  Many  dairies, 
not  let  to  labourers,  but  kept  for  making  but- 
ter; a  cow  will  make  1  cwt.  at  2I.  10s.  and 
the  calf  4s.  The  cabbins  let  here  at  20s.  each, 
and  30s.  they  pay  for  the  pafturage  of  a  cow, 
which  they  all  keep.  The  account  of  pota- 
toes is: 


Rent 

_ 

5 

s. 
0 

d. 

0 

8  Barrels  of  feed,  4s.  6d. 

- 

1 

16 

0 

Putting  in                  - 

2 

10 

0 

Taking  up              -              , 

- 

1 

10 

0 

10  16    o 

The  average  crop  60  barrels,  prime  coil  there- 
fore 3s.  6d.  Average  rent  of  the  whole  coun- 
ty of  Carlow,  i  5s. 

Palled  on  to  Mr.  Browne  at  Brownfhill, 
who  has  built  a  very  g;ood  and  convenient 
houfe,  in  an  open  fituation,  commanding  an 
extenlive  profpect  ;  gained  here  feveral  arti- 
cles of  information  relative  to  the  fame  neigh- 
bourhood as  Mr.  Vicar  is  in.  They  plough 
chiefly  with  oxen,  four  in  a  plough,  but  do 

not 


88  BROWNSHILL. 

not  half  an  acre  a  day,  which  is  a  quantity 
four  horfes  will  do  eafily. 

Tillage  is  very  much  increafed  here,  and 
almoft  intirely  owing  to  the  inland  premiums; 
the  people  alfo  increafe  much.  Tythes  are, 
"Wheat  5s.  Bere  4s.  Barley  3s.  Oats  2s  6d. 
Mowing  ground  3s.  and  of  fheep  in  kind. 

Throughout  the  county  of  Carlow  the  hiring 
tenant  is  in  general  the  occupier,  except  in 
fmall  pieces. 

In  front  of  Mr.  Browne's  houfe  is  a  moun- 
tain, which  I  remarked  was  cultivated  very 
high  up  the  fides;  and  upon  enquiry  found 
that  it  was  done  by  cotters,  who  pay  the  high 
rent  of  10s.  an  acre  in  order  to  improve:  they 
pare  it  with  a  plough,  and  burn  the  furrow, 
lime  and  fallow  it  for  wheat,  of  which  they 
get  fix  barrels  per  acre  ;  after  which  they  fow 
oats,  and  get  ten  barrels,  laying  down  with 
grafs  feeds.  Some  they  reclaim  with  potatoes. 
Much  of  the  mountain  is  wet,  fo  that  they 
are  forced  to  drain  it  with  open  cuts. 

Mr.  Browne  keeps  800  fheep,  which  confift 
of  200  ewes ;  100  ditto,  2  years  old;  100 
ditto,  3  years  old,  wethers  ;  200  ditto  1  year 
old,  ditto  hoggits ;  200  lambs.     And  he  fells 

ev.    y  year 

120  three  year  old  wethers,  at  25s.  £.  150     o     o 

80  culled  ewes,  at  16s.  -  64     o     o 

220  flone  of  wool,  at  i<5s.         -         17600 


390     o 

In  the  winter  they  eat,  of  hay,  25  ton. 


Heard 


BALLYBA'R.        89 

Heard  of  a  very  fpirited  farmer  at  Carlow, 
a  Mr.  Hamilton,  on  whom  I  fhould  have  call- 
ed, but  was  told  that  he  was  abfent.  He  has 
gone  fo  much  into  the  turnip  hufbandry  as  to 
have  100  acres  in  a  year,  and  8  or  10  acres  of 
cabbages ;  fows  them  much  on  pared  and 
burnt  land}  keeps  by  their  means  a  vaft  flock 
of  cattle  ;  flail  feeds  many  bullocks,  buying 
ilraw  for  litter  in  order  to  make  dung  ;  befides 
which  he  buys  all  the  dung  he  can,  and  burns 
much  lime,  taking  in  fhort  every  means  to 
keep  his  lands  clean  and  in  good  heart.  Such 
an  example  ought  to  be  powerful  in  creating 
imitators,  but  I  could  not  find  it  had  any  fuch 
effect  among  the  common  farmers. 

July  9th,  left  Brownfhill,  and  taking  the 
road  to  Laughlin-bridge,  called  on  Mr.  James 
Butler  at  Ballybar,  a  very  adive  and  intelli- 
gent farmer  upon  a  confiderahle  fcale.  H® 
has  generally  4  or  5  acres  of  cabbages,  which 
he  ufes  for  his  fat  wethers  of  four  years  old; 
the  produce  of  them  he  finds  greater,  and  the 
fheep  too  like  them  better  than  turnips.  He 
has  fometimes  20  acres  of  turnips,  and  hoes 
them  all.  This  year  none. — It  is  a  fign  the 
cultivation  is  not  well  understood  in  a  coun- 
try, when  a  man  has  one  year  20  acres,  and 
another  none.  A  principal  part  of  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  confumption  is  loft,  if  the  cat- 
tle fyftem  is  not  regularly  arranged  with  an 
eye  to  the  turnip  crop. 

Mr.  Butler  buys  every  year  40  year  old 
beafts,  at  from  30s.  to  40s.     Keeps  them  till 

three 


9o     LAUGHLIM-BRIDGE. 

three  years  and  an  half  old,  and  then  fells 
them  fat.  Alfo  20  bullocks,  at  5I.  which  he 
fells  fat  at  81.  His  cows  he  buys  in  May, 
from  3I.  to  3I.  1  os.  each.  The  profit  40s.  a 
head.  The  beft  grafs  he  has  will  carry  a  bul- 
lock an  acre.  His  fheep  fyftem  is  to  buy  three 
year  old  wethers  in  Oclober,  at  25s.  each, 
which  he  begins  to  fell  in  the  fpnng,  and 
through  the  fummer,  at  34s.  In  the  winter 
they  have  hay. 

His  improved  courfe  of  crops  is: 
1.  Turnips,  or  cabbages.     2.  Barley,  yield- 
ing 20  barrels  an  acre.     3.   Clover,  and   upon 
that  gralTes  afterwards  to  lay  down. 
The  courfes  general  are : 

1.  Fallow.  1.   Fotatoes. 

2.  Wheat  7$  barrels  an  acre.  2.  Wheat. 

3.  Barley.  3.  Barley,  14  barrels  an  acre. 

4.  Oats.  4.  Oats,    12  ditto. 

5.  Fallow,   and  then  as  above. 

Their  lands  let  at  30s.  an  acre,  being  a  very 
goodftony  loam.  Moft  in  this  neighbourhood 
were  grazing  ones, carrying  bullocks  and  fheep; 
but  ilnce  the  premiums  on  land-carriage  corn, 
they  have  been  broken  up,  and  are  now  as  1 
to  20.  The  number  of  fheep  particularly  is 
fo  much  lefTened.,  that  only  four  perfons,  Mr. 
Bun  bury,  the  two  Mr.  Bernards',  and  Mr. 
Keef,  had,  20  years  ago,  more  fheep  among 
them  than  there  are  now  in  the  whole  county. 

Having  taken  a  fhort  walk  with  Mr.  Butler, 
paiTed  on  to  Captain  Mercer's  mill  at  Laugh- 
lin-bridge.  I  had  been  told  that  this  was  one 
of  the  moll  confiderable  mills  in  Ireland;  and 

had 


LAUGHLIN  -BRIDGE.     91 

had  a  letter  of  recommendation  to  Mr.  Mer- 
cer, which  through  carelefTnefs  I  had  loll.  I 
did  not  care,  however,  to  pafs  without  feein? 
the  mill,  drove  down  to  it,  and  was  in  the 
aukward  fituation  of  explaining  myfelf  to  be 
a  traveller — what  I  wanted — fro .11  whence  I 
came — and  fo  forth  :  but  the  good-nature  and 
politenefs  of  Mr.  Mercer  prefently  diflipated 
the  difagreeablenefs  of  thole  firit  explanatory- 
moments.  He  {hewed  me  the  mill,  and  ex- 
plained every  thing  with  the  utmofl:  civility. 
It  is  a  very  large  and  convenient  one;  grinds 
1 5,000  barrels  a  year,  and  if  there  was  a 
briiker  demand  could  do  yet  more. 

I  found  the  fame  neceffity  of  kiln  drying 
here  as  at  Slaine  mill,  and  made  the  fame  ob- 
fervation  that  the  wheat  was  none  of  it  of  a 
fine  bright  colour,  like  what  is  common  in 
England. 

The  farmers  alfo  drefs  their  corn  in  fo  ilo- 
veniy  a  manner,  that  there  is  the  fame  necef- 
fity of  dreffing  it  over  again,  for  which  very 
powerful  machines  are  contrived.  The  whole 
is  very  well  calculated  for  fiving  labour  in 
every  operation,  and  only  eight  hands  are 
employed.  After  the  mill  was  built,  Mr. 
Mercer  made  many  alterations  of  his  own,  to 
render  it  more  fimple  and  effective,  which 
have  fully  anfwered  his  expectations.  The 
barrel  of  bran  here  is  4  ftgne,  and  fells  for  3d. 
Mr.  Mercer  has  tried  feeding  cattle  with  it, 
but  could  never  make  more  than  6d.  by  it : 

has 


92         K    I    L    F    A    I    N    E. 

has  alfo  fattened  hogs  with  it,  but  in  no  ufe 
will  it  pay  more  than  6d. 

Nothing  interefting  from  hence  to  Kilftine. 
I  faw  fome  very  good  crops  of  wheat,  but  the 
country  is  bleak,  and  v*ants  w:»od  much. 
Reached  Gervas  Parker  Bufhe's,  Efq;  at  that 
place  in  the  evening,  who  received  me  with 
a  politenefs  equalled  only  by  the  value  of  his 
intelligence. 

July  ioth,  accompanied  Mr.  Bufhe,  in  a 
ride  through  the  neighbourhood,  to  view  the 
country,  which  is  a  great  corn  one.  Called 
at  feveral  farms,  and  made  enquiries  into  the 
culture,  &c. 

Viewed  Mount  Juliet,  Lord  Carrick's  feat, 
which  is  beautifully  fituated  on  a  fine  declivity 
on  the  banks  of  the  Nore,  commanding  fome 
extenfive  plantations  that  fpread  over  the 
hills,  which  rife  in  a  various  manner  on  the 
other  fide  the  river :  a  knole  of  lawn  rifes 
among  them,  with  artificial  ruins  upon  it, 
but  the  fituation  is  not  in  unifon  with  the 
idea  of  a  ruin,  very  rarely  placed  to  effect, 
unlefs  in  retired  and  melancholy  fpots. 

The  river  is  a  very  fine  one,  and  has  a  good 
accompanyment  of  well  grown  wood.  From 
the  cottage  a  more  varied  fcene  is  viewed, 
chearful  and  pleafing  ^  and  from  the  tent,  in 
the  farther  plantation,  a  yet  gayer  one,  which 
looks  down  on  feveral  bends  of  the  riven 

It 


KILFAINE.         93 

It  was  impoffible  for  any  one  to  take  more 
pains,  that  I  fhould  be  well  informed  of  every 
particular  concerning  hufbandry,  than  Mr. 
Bufhe;  the  following  particulars  I  owe  to  his 
moft  amole  intelligence. 

About  Kilfaine,  farms  rife  generally  from 
ioo  to  200  acres,  among  many  very  fmall  ones, 
but  fcarcely  any  fo  high  as  400 ;  the  foil  a  dry 
found  gravelly  loam,  with  many  ftones,  much 
inclinable  to  land.  As  fine  turnip-land  as  any 
in  the  world ;  as  to  rent,  there  are  three-fifths 
of  it  good  land,  at  20s.  an  acre  -7  one-fifth 
worfe,  and  fit  for  pafture  15s.  and  another 
mountain  and  land  of  little  value:  the  firft, 
nothing  j  the  other  5s.  average  3s.  and  ge- 
neral average  16s. 

The  courfes  of  crops  are, 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  fow  1  barrel,  and 
get  on  an  average  6.  3.  Barley,  the  crop  10 
barrels.     4.  Oats,  the  crop  8  ditto,  or 

1.  Fallow.     1.  Fallow. 

2.  Wheat.     2.  Wheat,  which  furprized  me 

3.  Oats.  much,  for  it  is  very  co 

trary   to  the  fpirit    of  f- 
ceffive  crops. 

1.  Potatoes.  1.  Potatoes. 

2.  Wheat  2.  Bere  crop,  10  barrels. 

3.  Barley.  3.  Barley. 

4.  Oats.  4.  Oats. 

They  plough  three  or  four  times  for  wheat, 
fow  from  the  end  of  September  to  the  middle 
of  November.     The  firft  ploughing  is  not  till 

May 


94         K     I     L    F     A     I    N    E. 

May  or  June,  and  fometimes,  as  I  have  feen, 
not  till  July.  They  never  fow  Barley  till 
April,  and  often  May.  Peafe  they  only  fow 
on  land  which  they  think  is  not  in  heart  for 
oats,  and  the  crops  miferable,  as  may  be  fup- 
pofed.  They  fometimes  burn  low  rufhy  bot- 
toms, and  fow  rape  on  them,  but  not  often. 

No  fuch  thins  as  turnips  among  the  com- 
mon farmers,  though  they  have  an  excellent 
turnip-foil.  Mr.  Bufhe  has  tome  every  year, 
with  which  he  feeds  his  fheep. 

No  clover.  Mr.  Bufhe  has  had  it  for  fome 
time,  and  found  the  greateit  advantage  from 
it.  A  little  flax  for  their  own  ufe.  Potatoes 
very  generally  cultivated,  and  take  all  the 
dung  of  the  farm;  and  the  poor,  who  raife 
what  dung  they  can,  have  land  of  the  farmers 
gratis,  if  they  manure  it  well,  in  order  to 
plant  potatoes,  which  here  is  the  moft  general 
culture  of  that  root.     The  account, 


Dunging  2,10  lead 

-      £• 

1 

0 

0 

12  barrels  of  f<jed,  at  3s. 

- 

1 

16 

0 

Planting  with  a  plough 

- 

0 

16 

0 

Weeding 

- 

0 

4 

0 

Taking  up 

1 

8 

0 

5 

4 

0 

Plough  them  in,  and  then  trench  the  furrows. 
Crop  40  barrels.  The  befl  fort  are  the  yellow 
potatoe,  alfo  the  wife  for  produce.  The  Turk, 
which  is  the  Engliih  Howard,  they  plant  on 
poor  land,  and  never  beflow  any  dung  on  it, 

yet 


K     I     L     F     A     I     N     E.  95 

yet  get  great  crops;  but  it  is    a  very  bad  fort. 
They  are  beginning  to  cultivate  the  moun- 
tains ;  the  inclofures  creep  up  the  fides  gra- 
dually ;  they  pay  2s.  to  4s.  an   acre,  but  im- 
prove   to  be    worth    8  or   10s.     They   do  it 
with   lime-ftone  gravel,  or  begin  with  pota- 
toes, and  dung;  the  gravel  they  carry  2  miles 
to  3.     Lime  is   a  common  manure  j  they  lay 
80  barrels  an  acre  y  it  does  bed  on  light  land, 
and  gravel  on  ftony.    They  burn  it  themfelves. 
One  barrel  of  culm,  at  2s.  burns   5   barrels  of 
lime;  16  miles  from  the  coal-pits.     Quarrying 
and  burning  3d.  a  barrel.     Drawing  ftone  to 
the  kiln  id.  or  i±d.  ditto.     Lime-ftone  gravel 
is    a    very  general  manure,    and  the  benefit 
prodigious.     They  have  fome  they  call  lime- 
ftone  find,  which  is  a  fort  of  fand-ftone  that 
breaks  very    eafily.      They   lay    200   to    300 
loads,  6  or  7  cwt.  each,  an  acre.     Four  horfes 
will  draw  120  load  a  day,  each  load  if  barrel, 
and  the  diftanee  40  perch:  this  is  180  barrels, 
or  72obuihels,  which  is  24  loads,  at  30  bufheis 
each ;    which,  I    believe,    is   more  than    four 
horfes  ufually  perform   in  England,  and  is   a 
proof,  that  giving  every  horfe  his  own  work 
expedites  it.     Raifing  and  fcieening  the  fand 
from  large  ftones,   1  id.  a  car  load.     It  will  Lift 
in    ftrong   heart   feveral    years,   and    be  per- 
ceived 15.     As    to    laying  land  to  grafs,  they 
in  general   do  it  only  by   leaving  the  foil  to 
cover  itfelf  \\  ith  the  rubbiih  that  happens  to 
come. 

Grafs  land  for  meadow  is   very   valuable. 
About   the  town    of  Kilkenny,  3I.   to  5I.  an 

acre : 


96         K    I    L    F    A    I    N    E. 

acre ;  and  at  a  diftance  there  is  a  cuftom  of  the 
little  tillage- farmers  hiring  the  crop  of  hay  of 
a  gentleman  or  farmer,  and  giving  him,  mere- 
ly" for  the  hay,  3I.  to  51.  an  acre,  they  taking 
all  the  expenses  upon  themfelves,  and  not 
having  the  after-grafs.  Dairies  common  on 
the  hills  on  coarfe  grafs,  at  10s.  or  12s.  an 
acre.  A  good  cow  will  give  three  gallons  and 
an  half  of  milk  a  day.  As  they  fell  all  the 
butter-milk,  they  have  little  notion  of  keep- 
ing hogs,  on  account  of  dairies.  In  winter, 
the  cows  that  give  milk  have  hay;  the  others 
ftraw :  all  run  abroad.  Few  grazing  farms, 
but  in  the  barony  of  Cranagh  there  are  fome. 
Value  of  a  cow's  hide  15s.  to  1 8s.  per  cwt. 
Sheep  are  keptinfmall  parcels;  they  fellftore 
wethers  two  and  three  years  old,  at  16s.  to  20s. 
in  June  or  July.  Wool  about  3  to  a  Hone. 
The  price  of  wool  16s.  but  20  years  ago,  12s. 
No  fuch  thing  as  folding.  They  plough  ge- 
nerally with  4  horfes,  and  do  above  \  an  acre 
a  day,  laying  their  lands  on  6  foot  ridges. 
They  give  their  horfes  oats.  No  cutting  ftraw 
into  chaff,  and  lofe  all  that  of  the  crops.  Hire 
of  a  car,  a  horfe,  and  a  driver,  is.  4d.  In 
hiring  and  flocking  a  farm,  they  reckon  a 
year's  rent  necefTary;  if  they  have  lefs,  they 
never  know  whether  they  are  to  fink  or  fwim. 

Land  fells  at  21  years  purchafe  ;  not  quite 
fo  well  as  it  did  5  or  6  years  ago,  the  rents  fal- 
len fince  March  177$,  a  feventh.  County  cefs 
not  a  fhilling  an  acre.  Tythes  compounded 
generally,  wheat  8s.  bere  7s.  barley  7s.  oats  4s. 
mowing  ground  4s.  peafe  4s.  No  manufac- 
tory 


K     I    L     F    A     I     N    E.         97 

tory  of  confequence,  but  blankets  are  made 
at  Kilkenny.  The  leafcs  are  all  for  21  or  31 
years,  as  the  whole  country  is  Roman  Catho- 
lic. Much  land  is  in  the  occupation  of  un- 
der tenants,  who  hire  of  middle  men.  but 
generally  under  old  leafes ;  when  land  was  at 
its  heighth,  many  hired  alfo  on  fpeculation, 
but  the  fall  of  lands  has  put  a  great  Hop  to 
it.  A  cabbin  and  an  acre  lets  at  3I.  3s.  and  if 
more  land  40s.  or  42s.  an  acre,  the  cotters  have 
many  of  them  a  cow,  and  fome  two,  and  a 
pig  and  fome  poultry.  In  refped  to  their 
condition,  they  have  their  belly  full  of  pota- 
toes, and  their  children  eat  them  all  day 
long  i  all  cattle  lay  with  them  in  the  cabbins* 
Scarcity  of  fuel  is  the  worft  circumftance.  All 
the  lower  clalTes  are  Roman  Catholics,  No 
emigrations.  The  general  (late  of  the  poor 
will  appear  from  the  following  account  of  Mr. 
Bufhe's  hay-makers  -?  he  was  obliging  enough 
to  make  them  all  appear  in  array,  and  anfw7er 
to  the  queftions  I  put  to  them.  The  follow- 
ing are  the  particulars  they  gave  me. 


Vol.  I.  H  N©: 


,8 


K    I    L    F    A    I    N    E. 


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144     114 


23 


37 


Average     6* 


<s 


61  fouls 


K    I    L    F    A    I    N    E.         99 

6l  fouls  percabbin,  are  a  population  one  would 
not  imagine  could  be  refident  in  fuch  mean 
habitations,  but  they  fwarm  with  children  to 
the  eye  of  the  raoft  inattentive  obferver. 
They  have  a  practice  here  which  much  de- 
fervcs  attention :  three,  four,  five,  feven,  &c. 
little  farmers  will  take  a  large  farm  in  partner- 
fhip.  They  muft  be  equal  in  horfes,  cows, 
and  fheep,  and  tolerably  fo  in  other  circum- 
ftances;  they  divide  every  field  among  them- 
felves  equally,  and  do  all  the  labour  of  it  up- 
on their  feparate  accounts  5  affifting  each  other 
mutually:  they  never  throw  the  whole  into 
one  ftock  and  divide  the  profit,  from  fufpici- 
ons,  I  fuppofe,  they  have  of  one  another. 

Implements. 
A  car  il.  10s.  a  boarded  one  zi  2s.  A  plough 
il.  5s.  A  pair  of  harrows  15s.  Building  a 
labourer's  cabbin  in  the  common  manner  5I. 
Ditto,  of  ftane  and  llate,  30I.  For  a  farm 
complete  of  50  acres,  of  ftone  and  flate  iool. 
to  add  50  acres  more  30I.  more.  Poors  firing 
il.  10s.  but  hedges  much  broken. 

Mr.  Bufhe  is  very  attentive  in  the  culture 
of  his  domain;  he  puts  his  potatoes  in  with 
the  plough,  and  finds  they  anfwer  much  bet- 
ter than  the  common  manner,  making  them 
and  turnips  the  preparation  for  barley,  with 
which  he  fows  clover,  and  upon  that  wheat : 
this  is  the  Norfolk  hufbandry,  and  there  can- 
not be  better.  It  fhould  be  extended  over  all 
the  arable  land  wherever  it  is  practiced.  He 
H  2  has 


ioo         WOODSTOCK. 

has  this  year  a  very  fine  crop  of  wheat  fbwn 
upon  one  earth  on  an  old  lay,  and  no  damage 
from  the  red-worm.  In  the  fpring  he  con- 
fines his  cattle  to  the  farm  yard  for  making 
dung,  and  mixes  it  in  comports  with  fand  and 
lime.  He  has  an  ceconomical  praclice  which 
deferves  attention.  It  is  the  ftew  hole  in  his 
kitchen  being  a  perpetual  lime-kiln.  It  is  a 
fire  kept  night  and  day  at  lefsthan  no  expenfe, 
for  the  lime  more  than  pays  the  culm.  It  is 
not  at  all  unwholefome,  and  the  fire  for  cu- 
linary purpofes  is  excellent. 

July  ii,  left  Kilfaine:  Mr.  Bufhe  accom- 
panied me  to  Woodftock,  the  feat  of  Sir  W. 
Fownes.  From  Thomaftown  hither  is  the 
fined  ride  I  have  yet  had  in  Ireland.  The 
road  leaving  Thomaftown  leads  on  the  eaft 
fide  of  the  river,  through  fome  beautiful  copfe 
woods,  which  before  they  were  cut  muft  have, 
had  a  moft  noble  effect,  with  the  river  Nore, 
winding  at  the  bottom,  the  country  then  opens 
fomewhat,  and  you  pafs  moil:  of  the  way  for 
6  or  7  miles  to  Innifteague,  on  a  declivity 
(helving  down  to  the  river,  which  takes  a  va- 
ried winding  courfe,  fometimes  lively,  break- 
ing over  a  rocky  bottom,  at  others  frill  and 
deep  under  the  gloom  of  fome  fine  woods, 
which  hang  down  the  fides  of  fteep  hills. 
Narrow  flips  of  meadow  of  a  beautiful  ver- 
dure in  fome  places  form  the  fhore,  and  unite 
with  cultivated  fields  that  fpread  over  the  ad- 
joining hills,  reaching  almoft  the  mountain 
tops:  thefe  are  large  and  bold,  and  give  in 

general 


R      O       S      S.  ioi 

general  to  the  fcenes  features  of  great  magni- 
ficence. PafTed  Sir  John  Hafler's,  on  the  op- 
pofite  fide  of  the  river,  finely  fituated,  and 
Mr.  Nicholfon's  farm  on  this  fide,  who  has 
very  extenfive  copfes,  which  line  the  river. 
Coming  in  fight  of  Sir  W.  Fownes's,  the  fce- 
nery  is  ftriking,  the  road  mounts  the  fide  of 
the  hill,  and  commands  the  river  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  declivity,  with  groups  of  trees 
prettily  fcattered  about,  and  the  little  borough 
of  Innifteague  in  a  moil  picturefque  fituati- 
on,  the  whole  bounded  by  mountains.  Crofs 
the  bridge,  and  going  through  the  town,  take 
a  path  that  leads  to  a  fmall  building  in  the 
woods,  called  Mount  Sandford ;  it  is  at  the 
top  of  a  rocky  declivity  almoft  perpendicular, 
but  with  brufh  wood  growing  from  the  rocks. 
At  the  bottom  is  the  river,  which  comes  from 
the  right  from  behind  a  very  bold  hanging 
wood,  that  feems  to  unite  with  the  hill  on 
the  oppofite  fhore:  at  this  pafs  the  river  fills 
the  vale,  but  it  widens  by  degrees,  and  pre- 
fents  various  reaches,  intermixed  with  little 
tufts  of  trees,  the  bridge  we  paffed  over  is 
half  hid.  Innifteague  is  mixed  with  them, 
and  its  buildings  backed  by  a  larger  wood, 
give  variety  to  the  fcene.  Oppofite  to  the 
point  of  view  there  are  fome  pretty  inclofures, 
fringed  with  wood,  and  a  line  of  cultivated 
mountain  fides,  with  their  bare  tops  limit  the 
whole. 

Taking  my  leave  of  Mr.  Bufhe,  I  followed 
the   road   to   Rofs.      PafTed   Woodilock,    of 

which 


to2  W  H  I  T  E    B  O  Y  S. 

which  there  is  a  very  fine  view  from  the  top 
of  one  of  the  hills,  the  houfe  in  the  centre  of 
a  (loping  wood  of  sooEnglifh  acres,  and  hang- 
ing in  one  noble  fhade  to  the  river,  which 
flows  at  the  bottom  of  a  winding  glen.  From 
the  fame  hill  in  front  it  is  feen  in  a  winding 
courfe  for  many  miles  through  a  great  extent 
of  inclofures,  bounded  by  mountains.  As  I 
advanced,  the  views  of  the  river  Nore  were 
very  fine,  till  I  came  to  Rofs,  where  from  the 
hill,  before  you  go  down  to  the  ferry,  is  a  no- 
ble fcene  of  the  Barrow,  a  vail  river  flowing 
thro'  bold  fhores,  in  fomc  places  trees  on  the 
bank  half  obfeure  it,  in  others  it  opens  in 
large  reaches,  the  effect  equally  grand  and 
beautiful.  Ships  failing  up  to  the  town, 
which  is  built  on  the  fide  of  a  hill  to  the 
water's  edge,  enliven  the  fcene  not  a  little. 
The  water  is  very  deep  and  the  navigation 
fecure,  fo  that  fhips  of  700  tons  may  come  up 
to  the  town;  but  thefe  noble  harbours,  on 
the  coail  of  Ireland,  are  only  melancholy  ca- 
pabilities of  commerce :  it  is  languid  and  tri- 
lling. There  are  only  four  or  five  brigs  and 
sfloops  that  belong  to  the  place. 

Having  now  pafTed  through  a  considerable 
extent  of  county,  in  which  the  white  boys 
were  very  common,  and  committed  many  out- 
rages, I  rhall  here  review  the  intelligence  I 
received  concerning  them  throughout  the 
county  of  Kilkenny.  I  made  many  enquiries 
into  the  origin  of  thofe  difiurbances,  and  found 
that  no  fuch  thing  as  a  leveller,  or  white  boy, 

was 


WHITE    BOYS.  103 

was  heard  of  till  1760,  which  was  long  after 
the  landing  of  Thurot,  or  the  intended  ex- 
pedition of  M.  Conflans.  That  no  foreign 
coin  was  ever  feen  among  them,  though  re- 
ports to  the  contrary  were  circulated ;  and  in 
all  the  evidence  that  was  taken  during  ten  or 
twelve  years,  in  which  time  there  appeared  a 
variety  of  informers,  none  was  ever  taken, 
whofe  tefhmony  could  be  relied  on,  that  ever 
proved  any  foreign  interpofition.  Thofe  very 
few,  who  attempted  to  favour  it,  were  of  the 
inofl:  infamous  and  perjured  characters.  All 
the  reft,  whofe  intereft  it  was  to  make  the 
difcovery,  if  they  had  known  it,  and  who 
concealed  nothing  elfe,  pretended  to  no  fuch 
knowledge.  No  foreign  money  appeared ; 
no  arms  of  foreign  conftruclion  ;  no  preemp- 
tive proof  whatever  of  fuch  a  connection. 
They  began  in  Tipperary,  and  were  owing 
to  fome  inclofures  of  commons,  which  they 
threw  down,  levelling  the  ditches  ;  and  were 
firft  known  by  the  name  of  levellers.  After 
that,  they  be^un  with  the  tythe-proctors, 
(who  are  men  that  hire  tythes  of  the  rectors) 
and  thefe  pro&ors  either  fcrewed  the  cotters 
up  to  the  utmoft  milling,  or  re-let  the  tythe-: 
to  fuch  as  did  it.  It  was  a  common  practice 
with  them  to  go  in  parties  about  the  country, 
fwearing  many  to  be  true  to  them,  and  for- 
cing them  to  join,  by  menaces,  which  they 
very  often  carried  into  execution.  At  laii 
they  fet  up  to  be  general  redrelTcrs  of  grievan- 
ces—  punifhcd  all  obnoxious  perfons  who  ad 
vanced  the  value  of  lands,  or  hind  farms  pi  1  1 

their 


104  WHITE    BOYS. 

their  heads,  and  having  taken  the  adminiftra- 
tion  of  juftice  into  their  own  hands,  were  not 
very  exa&  in  the  diflribution  of  it.     Forced 
mailers   to   releafe  their   apprentices,  carried 
off  the   daughters  of  rich   farmers,   ravifhed 
them  into  marriages,  of  which  four  inftances 
happened  in  a  fortnight.     They  levied  fums 
of  money  on  the  middling  and  lower  farmers, 
in  o  der  to  fupport  their  caufe,  by  paying  at- 
tornies,  &c.  in  defending  profecutions  againft 
them;  and  many  of  them  fubfifted  for  fome 
years  without  work,  fupported  by  thefe  con- 
tributions.    Sometimes  they  committed  feve- 
ral  considerable  robberies,  breaking  into  houfes 
and  taking  the  money,  under  pretence  of  re- 
dn.  fling  grievances.     In  the  courfe  of  thefe 
outrages,  they  burnt  feveral  houfes,  and  de- 
fircyed  the  w  hole  fubfiance  of  men  obnoxious 
to    them.      The    barbarities   they   committed 
were   (hocking.     One  of  their  ufual  punifh- 
ments  (and   by  no  means   the   moil  fevere) 
wras  taking  people  out  of  their  beds,  carrying 
them  naked   in   winter,    on   horfe-back,    for 
fome  diftancc,  and  burying  them  up  to  their 
ohm  in  a  holt-  filled  with  briars,  not  forget- 
ting to  cut    off  cue   of  their  ears.     In  this- 
manner  the  evil  exiiied  for  eight  or  ten  years, 
during  which  time  the  gentlemen  of  the  coun- 
try took  fome  meafures  to  quell  them.     Many 
pf  the  magiftrates  were  aclive  in  apprehending 
them;  but  the  want   of  evidence   prevented 
punifhoients  For  many  of  thofe  who  even  fuf- 
fered  by  them,  had   not    fpirit  to  profecute. 
The  gentlemen  of  the  country  had  frequent 

expedition^ 


W  H  I  T  E     B  O  Y  S.  105 

expeditions  to  difcover   them   in   arms.;    but 
their  intelligence   was  fo   uncommonly  good 
by  their  influence  over   the  common  people, 
that  not  one  party  that  ever  went  in  queft  of 
them  was    fuccefsful.     'Government    offered 
large  rewards  for  informations,  which  brought 
a  few  every  year  to  the  gallows,  without  any 
radical  cure  for  the  evil.     The  reafon  why  it 
was  not  more  effe&ive  was,  the  neceflky  of 
any  perfon  that  gave  evidence  againft  them, 
quitting  their  houfes  and  country,  or  remain- 
ing expofed  to  their  refentment.     At  laft  their 
violence  arofe  to  a  heighth  which  brought  on 
their  fuppreflion.     The  popifh  inhabitants  of 
Ballyragget,  fix    miles   from   Kilkenny,  were 
the  firft  of  the  lower  people  who  dared  openly 
to  affociate  againft  them  •,  theythreatened  de- 
finition to  the  town,  gave  notice  that  they 
would  attack  it,  were  as  good  as  their  word, 
came  200  ftrong,  drew  up  before  a  houfe  in 
which  were    15  armed  men,  and  fired    in   at 
the  windows :  the  1  5  men  handled  their  arms 
fo  well,  that  in  a  few  rounds  they  killed  40 
or  qo.     They  fled  immediately,  and  ever  after 
left  Ballyragget  in  peace  — indeed  they  have 
never   been  refifted  at  all,  without  (hewing  a 
great  want  of  both    fpirit  and  difcipline.     It 
fhould,  however,  be  obferved,  that  they  had 
but  very  few  arms,  thofe   in   bad  order,  and 
no  cartridges.     Soon  after  this  they  attacked 
the  houfe"  of  Mr.  Power,  in  Tipperary,  the 
hiftory  of  which  is  well  known.     His  murder 
fpirited  up  the  gentlemen  to  exert  themfelves 
in   fuppreffing  the  evil,  efpecially  in  raifing 

fubferiptions 


io6  WHITE    BOYS. 

fubfcriptions  to  give  private  rewards  to  who- 
ever would  give  evidence  or  information  con- 
cerning them.  The  private  diftribution  had 
much  more  effect  than  larger  fums  which  re- 
quired a  public  declaration  j  and  government 
giving  rewards  to  thofe  who  reiiited  them, 
without  having  previoufly  'promife^L  it,  had 
likewife  fome  effect.  Laws  were  paffed  for 
punifhing  all  who  affembled,  and  (what  may- 
have  a  great  effect)  for  recompensing,  at  the 
expenfe  of  the  county  or  barony,  all  perfons 
who  fuffered  by  their  outrages.  In  confe- 
quence  of  thvs  general  exertion,  above  twenty 
were  capitally  convicted,  and  moft  of  them 
executed^  and  the  gaols  of  this  and  the  three 
neighbouring  counties,  Carlow,  Tipperary, 
and  Oueen's-county,  have  many  in  them, 
whofe  trials  are  put  off  till  next  affizes,  and 
againft  whom  fufficient  evidence  for  convicti- 
on, it  is  fuppofed,  will  appear.  Since  this  all 
has  been  quiet,  and  no  outrages  have  been 
committed  :  but  before  I  quit  the  fubject,  it 
is  proper  to  remark  that  what  coincided  very 
much  to  abate  the  evil,  was  the  fall  in  the 
price  of  lands,  which  has  taken  place  lately. 
This  is  confiderable,  and  has  much  leffened 
the  evil  of  hiring  farms  over  the  heads  of  one 
another ;  perhaps  alfo  the  tythe-proctors  have 
not  been  quite  fo  fevere  in  their  extortions : 
but  this  obfervation  is  by  no  means  general ; 
for  in  many  places  tythes  yet  continue  to  be 
levied,  with  all  thofe  circumfiances  which  ori- 
ginally raifed  the  evil. 

From 


WEXFORD.         107 
From  Rofs  took  the  road  towards  Wexford, 
and  found  upon  enquiry   that  I  was  got  into 
quite  a  different  country  from  what  I  had  left, 
the  foil  not  near  fo  high  let,  for  feveral  miles 
it  is  from  5s.  to  1  5s.  and  is  in  general  dry  found 
land.     This  foil,  fo    excellent  in  the   turnip- 
culture,  never  lets  at  its  real  value  in  unim- 
proved  countries:    it  is  the  introduction   of 
turnips  alone  that  afcertains  that  value.     In 
8  or  9  miles  I  found  fome  rifing  to  20s.    The 
courfe:   1.  Fallow.     2.  Wheat.     3.  Oats.     4. 
Bailey,     5.  Oats.    6- Barley.     7.  Oats.     With 
fuch  management,  no  wonder  the  foil  is  low 
rented.     There   is  a  great  quantity  of  rough 
land    overrun    with    furze    (uleoc   europoeas.) 
They  burn  them  here,  and   I   remarked   un- 
common quantities  of  bog-wood  at  the  doors 
of  the  cabbins  :  yet  their  turf-grounds  are  ra- 
ther boggy  bottoms  than  bogs. 

Laid  at  Taghmon,  at  as  good  an  inn  as  the 
appearance  of  the  place  could  allow  of,  though 
I  was  told  it  was  very  good.  There  was  a  bed 
on  which  I  refted  in  my  cloaths,  but  the  liable 
had  neither  rack  nor  manger-  I  fhould  have 
gone  on  to  Wexford,  but  found  that  Mr. 
Neville,  member  for  that  town,  to  whom  I 
had  a  letter  of  recommendation  in  order  to 
procure  intelligence  concerning  the  baronies 
of  Bargie  and  Forth,  was  in  England;  I  there- 
fore determined  to  turn  off  here,  and  make  a 
circuit  through  them  to  get  to  Wexford.  The 
landlord  feemed  to  know  fomething  of  the 
country.     I  afked  him  what  gentlemen  were 

in 


108      BARGIE  AND  FORTH. 

in  it  that  took  any  plsafure  in  hufbandry:  he 
named  feveral,  and  from  his  accounts  I  deter- 
mined a  call  on  Mr.  Nun,  at  St.  Margaret's. 

July  1 2th,  fallied  from  my  inn,  which  would 
have  made  a  very  paiTable  caffle  of  enchant- 
ment in  the  eyes  of  Don  Quixote,  in  fearch  of 
adventures  in  thefe  noted  baronies,  of  which 
I  had  heard  Co  much.  They  were  completely 
peopled  by  Strongbow  ;  and  from  having  re- 
tained a  fort  of  Saxon  language  peculiar  to 
themfe Ives,  without  any  of  them  undemand- 
ing the  Irifh,  in  all  probability  the  country 
was  at  that  time  uninhabited  or  defolated.  I 
had  been  told  that  they  were  infinitely  more 
induftrious  and  better  farmers  than  in  any 
other  part  of  Ireland,  and  this  account  was 
confirmed  to  me  by  feveral  common  Irifh  far- 
mers I  met  with  upon  the  road. — It  was  not 
long  before  I  was  in  the  barony  of  Bargie, 
and  I  was  much  furprifed  to  fee  no  great  ap- 
pearance of  any  thing  better  than  common.  In 
one  refpect,  I  remarked  the  vileft  hufbandry, 
wThich  was  exhaufting  the  land  by  fuccefTive 
corn  crops,  and  then  leaving  it  to  cover  itfelf 
with  weeds,  and  grafs  by  degrees :  for  it  is  to 
be  obferved,  that  I  have  not  feen,  in  Wex- 
ford, anv  of  that  fine  land  I  have  mentioned  fo 
often,  which,  if  thrown  by  in  this  manner,  is 
almof!  immediately  covered  with  white  clover. 
Land,  I  found,  let  five  or  fix  miles  from  Tagh- 
mon,  from  ios.  to  20s.  an  acre;  they  have  no 
fallow,  but  fow  oats  and  barley,  and  beans 
and  peafe,  (which  they  call  black  corn]  in  fuc- 

cefTioa 


BARGIE   AND  FORTH.     109 

ceffion  for  many  years,  and  without  any  fuch 
practice  as  hoeing.  And  though  the  land  is 
light,  dry  and  found,  not  a  turnip  is  fown; 
fo  that,  in  21  miles,  I  faw  not  a  fingle  fallow 
for  them.  Sowing  beans  and  peafe  is,  howe- 
ver, common,  and  they  have  farther  a  notion 
that  doing  fo  refrefhes  the  land.  I  faw  no 
beans  in  Ireland  till  I  came  here.  They  told 
me  their  crops  were :  Barley  and  oats  6  to  12 
barrels.  Beans  8  to  10  barrels.  They  ufe 
both  marie  and  lime;  of  the  former  they  lay 
400  car  loads  per  acre,  and  it  lails  1 2  crops. 
Much  of  their  wheat  is  fown  on  lays,  marled 
and  dunged,  and  the  crops  were  very  good. 
Potatoes  not  the  food  of  the  people  the  year 
through,  as  in  other  parts  of  Ireland  ;  they 
live  on  them  only  in  the  winter,  and  have  oat- 
meal the  reft  of  the  year.  Barley  is  the  crop 
that  fucceeds  them. 

Advancing  farther  I  had  frefh  accounts.— 
Wheat  they  fow  on  lays,  with  only  one  plough- 
ing, and  get  from  7  to  10  barrels  an  acre ;  and 
of  oats  and  barley  on  good  land  fometimes  fo 
high  as  15  to  17  barrels.  They  lime  much, 
and  ufually  take  but  four  or  five  crops  of  corn 
running,  upon  which  they  feemed  to  pride 
themfelves  much,  as  being  good  farmers. 
Farms  in  Bargie  generally  from  40  to  100 
acres.  Here  I  underftood  there  was  a  part  of 
the  barony  of  Shclmal  inhabited  by  quakers, 
rich  men  and  good  farmers.  A  farmer  I  talked 
to  faid  of  them : — the  quakers  be  very  cunning, 
and  the  devil  a  bad  acre  of  land  will  they  hire. 

From 


no     BARG1E  AND  FORTH. 

From  this  account  I  wifhed  for  a  recommenda- 
tion to  one  of  thefe  fagacious  friends.  I  ob- 
ferved  all  the  way  I  went,  that  the  cabbins 
were  generally  much  better  than  any  I  had  feen 
in  Ireland :  lar^e  ones,  with  two  or  three 
rooms,  in  good  order  and  repair,  all  with  win- 
dows and  chimnics  and  little  fries,  for  their 
pigs  and  cattle.  As  well  built  as  common  in 
England. 

Entering  Forth  I  did  not  perceive  any  differ- 
ence, but  the  foil  is  a  reddifh  good  loam  with- 
out (tones.  I  went  to  St.  Margaret's,  and  in- 
troduced myfelf  to  Colonel  Nun,  who  gave  me 
the  following  particulars,  with  the  alfiftarce 
of  a  neighbouring  farmer.  Barony  of  Forth 
and  Bargie  farms  generally  20  to  80  acres  ; 
but  many  of  them  hired  in  partnerfhip,  and 
when  the  children  marry  are  fubdivided  into 
fmaller  portions.  Rent  of  the  two  baronies 
on  an  average  a  guinea.     The  courfes  : 

1.  Potatoes.  p.  Summer  fallow. -,  1 .  Beans  on  lay. 

2.  Flax  or  barley.      \2.  Barley.  /  2.  Barley. 

3.  Leave  it    for    a  ^3.  Beans.  k.  3.  Oats. 
ibd,  but  mod  fow  1 4.  Oats.  I  4.  Barley, 
clover  and  graffes.  ^5.  Graffes.             J  5.  Clover  or  tre- 

foile,  for  2,  3,  or 
4  years, 

i.  Fallow  and  marie.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Bar- 
ley.    4.  Oats.     5.  Barley.     6,  Clover,  &c. 

For  wheat  they  plough  but  once  on  the  lay, 
harrow  in  the  feed  and  fhovel  the  furrows  ; 
fow  in  October  one-half  to  three-fourths  of  a 
barrel :  fome  ufe  fpring  wheat  fown  in  March. 
The  crop  generally  is    10  to  20  barrels.     For 

barley, 


BARGIE  AND  FORTH.       in 

barley,  which  is  their  principal  crop,  they 
plough  twice ;  fow  one  barrel  and  an  half,  get 
10  to  15  barrels  an  acre.  For  oats  they  plough 
but  once,  fow  one  barrel  and  an  half,  and  get 
10  or  12  barrels  an  acre.  For  peafe  or  beans 
they  plough  but  once,  fow  many  beans  on  a 
lay  on  one  ploughing,  one  barrel  and  an  half 
per  acre-,  chopping  anddreffing  the  clods  fine, 
get  5  to  20  barrels  an  acre,  and  fow  barley  af- 
ter it.  No  turnips  among  the  common  far- 
mers, though  much  of  their  land  is  fine  dry 
and  found,  but  fome  is  very  wet. 

Flax  enough  for  their  own  ufe.  Potatoes 
they  have  of  late  began  to  put  in  with  the 
plough,  but  in  common  they  are  in  the  trench- 
ing way.  Their  crops  are  very  good.  Marie 
is  very  much  ufed :  it  is  a  blue  fort.  They 
lay  large  quantities  on  the  fod,  let  it  lie  a  year 
or  two  before  they  plough  it  up,  which  they 
find  better  than  ploughing  it  directly.  They 
marie  the  fame  land  often :  they  drain  only 
with  open  cuts,  no  hollow  ones  done. 

Cattle  very  little  attended  to :  only  a  cow 
or  two  for  the  ufe  of  their  families,  and  a  few 
fheep ;  but  they  keep  a  great  many  pigs.  All 
that  live  near  the  fea,  turn  their  pigs  to  the 
fhore  for  fifh,  fea- weed,  &c.  Manure  with 
fea- weed,  which  they  lay  on  for  barley;  fome 
frefh  from  the  fea,  others  lay  it  in  heaps  to 
rot,  and  many  reckon  it  belt  frefh.  Plough- 
ing all  with  horfes,  four  in  a  plough  -,  lay 
their  lands  round  to  (hoot  off  the  water.     In 

ploughing 


its    BARGIE   AND  FORTH. 

ploughing  grafs  for  corn,  they  leave  one-third 
of  every  ridge  unploughed  in  the  middle,  but 
covered  up  with  the  furrows,  in  order  for  til- 
ling the  year  following,  and  think  they  get 
the  beft  crops  there.     Execrable  ! 

Land  fells  from  22  to  25  years  purchafe  ; 
nor  have  rents  fallen  at  all,  rather  the  con- 
trary. County  cefs  8d.  an  acre.  Tythes  ei- 
ther gathered  or  appraifed  every  year.  Leafes 
generally  three  lives,  or  31  years.  Carry 
their  corn  to  Wexford.  The  people  increafe 
prodigioufly.  Rent  of  a  cabbin  and  an  acre 
3I.  generally  have  a  cow  and  pigs,  and  plenty 
of  poultry.  Religion  generally  Catholic. 
Many  lads  go  to  Newfoundland  in  May,  and 
come  home  in  October,  and  bring  from  15I. 
to  24I.  pay  3I.  paffage  out,  and  il.  10s.  home. 
Poors'  firing  fod,  furze,  and  fern,  coals  very 
fcarce.  Building  a  cottage  5I.  to  7I.  to  a  farm 
of  50  acres  150I. 

The  people  are  uncommonly  induftrious, 
and  a  moit.  quiet  race  —  in  15  or  20  years 
there  is  no  fuch  thing  as  a  robbery.  The  lit- 
tle farmers  live  very  comfortably  and  happily, 
and  many  of  them  worth  feveral  hundred 
pounds.  They  are  exceedingly  attentive  in 
getting  mould  out  of  the  ditches  and  banks, 
to  mix  a  little  dung  with  it,  and  fpread  it  on 
their  land. 


Particulars 


BARGIE  AND   FORTH.      113 

Particulars  of  a  farm  : 

70  acres.  16  cows,  4  to  each  partner.  20 
horfes,  each  5.  So  fheep.  60  fwine. 
Stock  worth  300I.  4  families. 

And  this  farm  by  old  accounts  has  had  00 
crops  of  corn  without  a  fallow  or  grafs,  in 
fucceflion,  but  they  manure  with  fea-weed 
and  fea-fand  every  year.  They  are  always  on 
the  watch  for  fea-weed ;  and  when  the  tide 
comes  in,  if  it  is  in  the  middle  of  the  night, 
they  go  out  with  their  cars,  and  get  all  they 
can.  Some  of  the  fields  are  fo  covered  with 
great  ftone  rocks,  that  one  would  think  it 
impoflible  to  plough  them,  but  they  manage 
it  by  attention. 

They  all  fpeak  a  broken  Saxon  language, 
and  not  one  in  an  hundred  knows  any  thing 
of  Irifh.  They  are  evidently  a  diftinct  peo- 
ple ;  and  I  could  not  but  remark,  their  fea- 
tures and  caft  of  countenance  varied  very 
much  from  the  common  native  Irifh.  The 
girls  and  women  are  handfomer,  having  much 
better  features  and  complexions.  Indeed  the 
women,  among  the  lower  claffes  in  general  in 
Ireland,  are  as  ugly  as  the  women  of  fafhion 
are  handfome.  Their  induftry,  as  I  have 
mentioned  in  feveral  particulars,  is  fuperior 
to  their  neighbours  j  and  their  better  living 
and  habitations  are  alfo  diftinctions  not  to  be 
forgotten.  The  poor  have  all  barley-bread 
and  pork,  herrings,  &c.  and  potatoes.  On 
the  coaft   a  confiderable  fifhery  of  herrings  : 

Vol.  I.  I  every 


ii4  G    O    W    R    Y. 

every  creek  has  four  or  five  boats — none  bar- 
reled by  the  people,  but  the  merchants  of 
Wexford  barrel  them  for  the  Weft  Indies. 

From  St.  Margaret's,  I  took  the  road  to 
Wexford,  the  whole  way  through  the  barony 
of  Forth.  I  faw  nothing  but  ftraw  hats  for 
men  as  well  as  women,  and  found  afterwards 
that  they  were  worn  through  the  whole  coun- 
ty, and  they  give  a  comic  appearance  to  every 
group  one  meets.  Laid  at  the  King's  Arms 
at  Wexford,  a  very  clean  and  good  inn.  There 
are  14  or  15  fmall  (hips  belonging  to  this  port, 
but  a  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbour  pre- 
vents large  ones  coming  in. 

July  13th,  CrolTed  the  harbour  in  a  ferry- 
boat, in  order  to  take  the  lower  road  to 
Gowry.  PafTed  over  much  fandy  land  by  the 
fea  fide,  covered  with  fern  ;  large  tracts  of  it, 
and  divided  into  inclofures,  as  if  it  had  been 
cultivated.  Near  the  town  I  obferved  fome 
heaps  of  fea- weed  rotting  for  manure.  At 
the  60th  mile  ftone  large  fandy  trads,  covered 
with  furze  and  fern.  As  profitable  land  for 
improvement  as  any  I  have  feen ;  lets  for  6s. 
or  7s.  an  acre,  but  there  is  much  other  land 
at  15s. 

Their  courfe  here  is:  1.  Oats,  7  or  8  bar- 
rels. 2.  Barley,  6  ditto.  3.  Oats.  4.  Bar- 
ley. 5.  Clover  and  rye-grafs  3  to  6  years. 
Towards  Wells,  and  from  thence  to  Gowry, 
land  is  higher,  much  of  it  at  20  s.  and  fome 
higher  ftill. 

Got 


C   O   U  R   T   O   W   N.         115 

Got  to  Lord  Courtown's,  who  with  an  at- 
tention highly  flattering,  took  every  means  to 
have  me  well  informed.  His  feat  at  Cour- 
town  is  a  very  agreeable  place,  and  in  fome 
refpecis  a  very  lingular  one ;  for  the  houfe  is 
within  600  yards  of  the  fea,  and  yet  it  is  al- 
mofl  buried  in  fine  woods,  which  from  their 
growth  and  foliage,  fhew  no  averfion  to  their 
neighbour,  who  is  fo  often  pernicious  to  all 
their  brethren.  His  views  of  the  fea  are  fine, 
every  where  broken  by  wood,  or  hilly  varied 
ground.  All  his  environs  coniifl  of  undulat- 
ing lands,  which  give  a  pleating  variety  to  the 
fcene  :  a  river  enters  his  garden,  and  purfu- 
ing  for  fome  diftance  a  fequeftered  courfe, 
fhaded  on  one  fide  by  a  rocky  bank  well 
wooded,  and  on  the  other  by  lofty  trees,  with 
a  very  agreeable  walk  under  them,  pours  it- 
felf  into  the  fea  at  a  fmall  diftance  from  the 
houfe. 

Lord  Courtown  is  a  very  good  farmer.  The 
firft  field  of  turnips  I  [aw  in  Ireland  was  here, 
and  he  was  thinning  and  weeding  them  with 
boys,  in  order  to  hoe  them  with  the  more  ef- 
fect, the  land  in  order,  well  dunged,  and  the 
plants  forward  and  flouriiTiing.  He  generally 
has  7  or  8  acres,  feeds  his  cattle  with  them  in 
a  farm-yard,  well  littered  with  fern  and  ftraw, 
and  fows  barley  after,  getting  very  fine  crops. 
His  fandy  lands  by  the  coaft  he  marles  richly, 
and  with  fuch  effect  that  his  crops  are  very 
great.  The  fineft  wheat  I  have  feen  yet  in 
Ireland  was  on  this  fand.  Some  of  his  Lord- 
fliip's  fields  are  wet  from  a  ftratum  of  clay ; 

I  4  thefe 


n6        COURTOWN. 

thefe  he  throws  into  lands  gently  arched,  lays 
them  down  fo,  and  finds  them  found  enough 
for  winter  feeding  without  poaching,  whereas 
when  flat,  they  are  quite  kneaded  if  any  cat- 
tle go  into  them.  On  this  clay  foil  he  finds 
the  beft  manure  is  fea-fand  and  ihingle  from 
the  beach. 

July  14,  furtday — to  church,  and  was  fur- 
prifed  to  find  a  large  congregation  :  this  is  not 
often  the  cafe  in  Ireland  out  of  a  mafs  houfe. 
— Gallop  on  the  ftrand;  it  is  a  fine  firm  beau- 
tiful fand  for  miles.  The  paddies  were  fwim- 
ming  their  horfes  in  the  fea  to  cure  the  mange, 
or  keep  them  in  health. 

The  following  particulars  of  the  hufbandry 
of  the  neighbourhood  his  Lordfhip's  brother 
gave  me. 

At  Courtown,  and  around  Gowry,  farms  in 
general  fmall:  but  from  40  or  50  to  2  or  3000 
acres,  yet  200  acres  are  a  large  one,  but  very 
many  fmall  of  30  to  50.  The  foil  is  a  fkirt- 
ing  of  fand  againft  the  fea,  the  reft  is  gravel 
and  gravelly  loam  :  alfo  a  thin  ftratum  of  loam 
on  a  yellow  very  miferable  clay,  12  inches 
thick,  and  under  it  univerfally  a  fine  blue 
marie  of  great  depth.  Rents  rife  from  jos.  to 
30s.  average  1 5s.  to  20s.  and  of  the  whole 
county  1  5s.  A  good  deal  of  mountain,  which 
in  its  wild  ftate  does  not  let  for  more  than  3s. 
The  little  farmers  improve  it  much  by  fallow 
and  lime,  which  they  bring  from  Carlow,  25 
miles.     When  improved,  it  is  worth  16s.  an 

acre, 


COURTOWN.         117 

acre,  and  they  pay  that  for  it  at  the  expiration 
of  the  leafe. 

Their  courfes  are  :  1.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley, 
yielding  10  or  12  barrels.  3.  Oats,  the  pro- 
duce 10  or  12:  and  then  more  crops  of  oats, 
or  barley  and  oats,  till  the  foil  is  exhaufted, 
when  they  leave  it  to  turf  itfelf,  which  it  will 
not  do  under  10  or  15  years.  Alio,  1.  Sum- 
mer fallow.  2.  Wheat,  7  barrels ;  and  then 
fpring-corn  crops,  till  the  land  is  exhaufred. 
No  peafe  or  beans  fown.  Not  a  turnip  in  the 
country  among  common  farmers,  though  the 
fineft  fands  and  grounds  imaginable  for  them : 
nor  clover.  A  little  flax  is  fown,  generally 
after  potatoes,  and  the  culture  of  it  increafes 
gradually. 

Potatoes  in  general  put  in  in  the  common 
manner  ±  but  I  heard  of  one  or  two  farmers, 
who  on  dry  ground  plant  them  with  the 
plough  :  always  dung  or  pare  and  burn ,  no 
hiring  of  land  for  them,  only  in  their  own 
gardens  and  little  fields  -,  they  do  not  often 
raife  more  than  enough  for  half  a  year,  buying 
for  the  other  half.  It  is  not  a  fheep  country, 
and  no  fuch  thing  as  folding  known. 

Lime  is  not  ufed,  except  in  the  mountains, 
from  Carlow:  but  marie  is  very  general,  a 
good  blue  fort,  which  they  fpread  amply  on 
the  fod,  and  plough  it  for  wheat.  The  good 
farmers' take  three  crops  upon  it,  but  the  little 
ones  will  take  8  or  10  as  long  as  the  land  will 
yield  any  thing.     The  deeper  they  dig  the 

marie, 


ug        C   O   U   R   T    O   W   N. 

marie,  the  better  it  is.  They  dairy  much 
here,  fome  having  20  cows  for  butter  chiefly. 
It  has  been  a  common  idea,  that  one  good 
cow  will  make  1  cwt.  of  butter  at  42s.  and 
Icwt.  of  cheefe  25s.  and  rear  her  calf.  They 
all  keep  many  pigs,  and  the  more  upon  ac- 
count of  their  dairies.  Some  calves  are  fat- 
tened for  Dublin  market,  one  will  fuck  two 
cows,  and  be  worth  4I  at  3  months  old.  No 
large  flocks  of  fheep,  but  moft  of  the  farmers 
have  a  few;  generally  wethers  bought  in  and 
fold  out  every  year.  Give  them  hay  in  bad 
weather.  3  fleeces  to  a  flone  of  wool,  the 
prefent  price  16s.  Between  30  and  40  years 
ago  3s.  a  ftone;  and  20  years  ago  10s.  to  us. 
Tillage  is  performed  all  with  horfes,  4  in  a 
plough,  and  do  half  an  acre  a  day.  All  their 
chaff  is  loft  in  winnowing  their  corn  in  the 
fields.  Hire  of  a  car  is.  In  hiring  and  flock- 
ing farms,  they  will  take  them  with  fcarce 
any  thing  but  a  few  cows  and  horfes,  yet 
they  pay  their  rents  very  well,  and  few  of  them 
fail.  Land  at  rack  rent,  fells  at  20  years  pur- 
chafe,  but  within  thefe  10  years  22  or  23. 
Rents  have  been  riling  for  1 5  years  :  they  have 
not  fallen  of  late  years  as  in  other  parts  of  Ire- 
land, though  in  fome  places  are  beginning. 

Tythes  are  valued  every  year,  and  the  10th 
taken  as  a  compofition,  wheat  at  18s.  a  bar- 
rel. Barley  8s.  Oats  6s.  The  10th  lamb 
2s.  6d.  No  tea  in  the  labourers  cabbins,  but 
in  thofe  of  little  farmers  they  have  it,  and  it 
increafes  much.  Leafes  generally  3  lives  to 
Proteflants,  and  3 1   years  to  Catholics.     The 

fyftem 


C  O   U   R   T   O   W   N.         u9 

fyftem  of  middle   men  going  out — none  in 
new  let  lands. 

Barley  carried  to  Wexford  for  exportation, 
and  wheat  to  Dublin  by  means  of  bounty  on 
inland  carriage.  The  people  increafe  confi- 
derably.  Rent  of  a  cabbin  with  ah  acre  40s. 
if  n:ore  added  20s.  an  acre.  All  keep  cows, 
and  generally  a  horfe  and  a  pig  or  two,  with 
plenty  of  poultry  reared  on  potatoes. — They 
live  on  oat-cakes  when  potatoes  are  not  in 
feafon;  the  little  farmers  that  have  40  or  50 
acres,  eat  a  good  deal  of  meat  •  fiih  is  a  great 
article  with  the  poor,  particularly  herrings  and 
cod.  In  general  much  improving,  and  more 
induflrious  than  formerly.  In  about  four 
years,  40  or  ^operfons  emigrated  to  America. 
They  are  beginning  to  improve  mountain  and 
bog,  which  from  being  worth  nothing  before, 
now  let  at  above  20s.  an  acre.  No  farms  hir- 
ed in  partnerfhip. 

The  white  boys  were  violent  for  about  three 
months  in  1775,  chiefly  from  Kilkenny  and 
Carlow,  but  fuppreffed  immediately  by  the 
fpirited  afTociations  of  the  gentlemen.  They 
were  heard  of  in  thefouth  under  other  names 
before  Thurot  or  Conflans.  Poors'  firing, 
turf  feven  miles  off;  20  kifh  at  is.'  6d.  a  good 
ftock;  in  common  it  may  be  reckoned  il.  is. 
Building  a  cabbin  61.  to  7I.  7s.  Of  flone  and 
flate  20I.  Ditto  for  a  farm  of  50  acres,  lione 
and  flate,  25I.  Crammed  fowls  with  potatoes 
and  oatmeal  and  milk  2s.  to  2s.  6d.  each.  Since 
thefe  particulars  were  taken  at  Courtown  his 

Lordfhip, 


120        C   O   U  R   T   O   W  N. 

Lordfhip,  by  letter,  has  favoured  me  with  the 
following,  from  an  intelligent  farmer. 

COURSE   OF   CROPS. 

1.  Wheat. 

Number  of  ploughings,  four  before  fowing. 
Firft  in  November.  Second  in  April,  by  crofs 
cutting.  In  June  harrow  it  down  well,  then 
put  on  your  manure.  Third  ploughing  in 
July  j  harrow  it  down  again.  Fourth  ditto 
in  Auguft,  which  will  leave  it  prepared  for 
fowing.  Seed  to  the  acre,  fourteen  ftone. 
Crop,  at  a  medium,  eight  barrels. 

2.  Barley. 

Two  ploughings.  Firft  in  November.  Se- 
cond at  the  time  you  fow,  having  firft  crofs 
harrowed.  Seed  to  the  acre,  fifteen  ftone. 
Crop,  nine  barrels. 

3.  Oats. 
Moft  farmers  plough  but  once.     Seed,  22 
ftone.     Crop,  9  barrels. 

For  Potatoes. 
Let  your  ground  lie  ploughed  all  winter;  to 
every  acre  put  500  load  of  dung.  Seed,  eight 
barrels.  Crop,  80  ditto.  Price,  per  barrel,  5s. 
Ufe  of  lime  very  profitable  on  dry  ground ; 
quantity,  per  acre,  from  40  to  50  barrels. 

Cows'  Produce. 
One  cow  will  give  ten  quarts  of  milk  a  day  -, 
will  produce  one  hundred  of  butter.     Profit, 
three  pound. 

Sheep. 


C   O  U   R   T   O   W  N.        121 

Sheep. 

£.    s.    d. 

Two  acres  will  fupport  one  collop,  or  eight  ewes. 

Each  fheep  a  lamb,  at  56.  each  2     o    » 

Wool  from  the  eight  fheep,  one  (lone,  at  0170 

2  17     o 
Two  acres,  at  20s.  per  acre        -        -        -         200 

Profit  on  eight  fheep,  at  an  average,  017     o 

Proportion  of  the  rife  of  labour  is  not  more  than  2d.  per  day. 

Particulars  of  a  Farm. 

Arable  20  acres,  10  of  barley,  4  of  wheat,  6 
of  oats.  Pafture  67  acres.  Meadow  1 3  ditto, 
> — Total  100  acres. — Stock,  24  Cows,  Shorfes. 
7  two-year  old  heifers,  4  year  old  ditto,  and 
four  calves. — Rent  iool.     Three  Labourers. 

Marle. 

Quantity,    per  acre,  on  ftifT  clay  ground, 

.  from  5  to  600  load,  of  about  600  weight ;  on 

dry  gravelly  ground,  from  800  to  1000  ditto, 

according  to  the  foil,  will  laft  40  years  with 

management. 

July  1 5th,  leaving  Courtown,  took  the  Ark- 
low  road ;  paffed  a  finely  wooded  park  of  Mr. 
Rams,  and  a  various  country  with  fome  good 
corn  in  it.  Flat  lands  by  the  coaft  let  very 
high,  and  mountain  at  6s.  or  7s.  an  acre,  and 
fome  at  8s.  or  10s.  Paffed  to  Wicklow,  pret- 
tily fituated  on  the  fea,  and  from  Newrybridge 
walked  to  fee  Mr.  Tye's,  which  is  a  neat 
farm  well  wooded,  with  a  river  running  through 
the  fields. 

Reached 


122    MOUNT    KENNEDY. 

Reached  in  the  evening  Mount  Kennedy, 
the  feat  of  Gen.  Cunninghame,  who  fortu- 
nately proved  to  me  an  inftru&or  as  affiduous 
as  he  is  able.  He  is  in  themidfl  of  a  country 
almoft  all  his  own,  for  he  has  10,000  Irifh  acres 
here.  His  domain,  and  the  grounds  about  it, 
are  very  beautiful,  not  a  level  can  be  feen; 
every  fpot  is  tolled  about  in  a  variety  of  hill 
and  dale.  In  the  middle  of  the  lawn  is  one  of 
the  greateft  natural  curiofities  in  the  king- 
dom; an  immenfe  arbutus  tree  unfortunate- 
ly blown  down,  but  yet  vegetating,  one 
branch,  which  parts  from  the  body  near  the 
ground,  and  afterwards  divides  into  many  large 
branches,  is  6  feet  2  inches  in  circumference. 
The  general  buried  part  of  the  ftem  as  it  laid, 
and  it  is  from  feveral  branches  throwing  out 
fine  young  {hoots :  it  is  a  moft  venerable  rem- 
nant. Killarney,  the  region  of  the  Arbutus, 
boafts  ofnofuch  tree  as  this. 

July  1 6th,  rode  in  the  morning  to  Drum; 
a  large  extent  of  mountains,  and  wood,  on 
the  general's  eftate.  It  is  a  very  noble 
fcenery ;  a  vaft  rocky  glen ;  one  fide  bare 
rocks  to  an  immenfe  height,  hanging  in  a 
thoufand  whimfical,  yet  frightful,  forms,  with 
vaft  fragments  tumbled  from  them,  and  lying 
in  romantic  confufion^  the  other  a  fine  moun- 
tain fide  covered  with  fhrubby  wood.  This 
wild  pafs  leads  to  the  bottom  of  an  amphi- 
theatre of  mountain,  which  exhibits  a  very 
noble  fcenery.  Te  the  right  is  an  immenfe 
fweep  of  mountain  completely  wooded,  taken 
as  a  lingle  object  it  is  a  moft  magnificent  one, 

but 


MOUNT    KENNEDY.     123 

but  its  forms  are  piclurefque  in  the  higheft 
degree ;  great  projections  of  hill,  with  glens 
behind  all  wooded,  have  a  noble  effect.  Every 
feature  of  the  whole  view  is  great,  and  unites  to 
form  a  fcene  of  natural  magnificence.  From 
hence  a  riding  is  cut  through  the  hanging 
wood,  which  rifes  to  a  central  fpot,  where 
the  general  has  cleared  away  the  rubbifh  from 
under  the  wood,  and  made  a  beautiful  waving 
lawn  with  many  oaks  and  hollies  fcattered 
about  it  -,  here  he  has  built  a  cottage,  a  pretty 
whimfical  oval  room,  from  the  windows  of 
which  are  three  views,  one  of  diftant  rich  lands 
opening  to  the  fea,  one  upon  a  great  moun- 
tain, and  a  third  upon  a  part  of  the  lawn. 
It  is  well  placed  and  forms  upon  the  whole 
a  moft  agreeable  retreat.  The  following  par- 
ticulars of  agriculture  I  had  from  General 
Cunninghame,  who  took  every  means  of  hav- 
ing me  well  informed. 

About  Mount  Kennedy  the  country  is  in- 
clofed  within  various  mountains  and  high 
lands;  farms  are  generally  very  fmall,  from 
20  acres  to  100,  except  in  mountainous  tracts, 
where  they  are  larger,  fome  from  300  to  60c 
acres.  The  foil  is  in  general  a  dry  found  gra- 
vel, hanging  to  the  fouth  eaft,  and  protected 
by  mountains  from  the  north  weft.  The  rent, 
on  an  average,  from  30s.  to  50s.  not  moun- 
tain, which  is  ufually  8s.  or  10s.  The  Ikirt 
of  the  whole  countv,  from  the  mountain  down 
to  the  fea,  is  from  30s.  to  50s.  an  acre,  being 
a  fixth  of  it.  One  third  of  it,  uncultivated 
and  uninhabited,  lets  for  not  more  than  6d. 

an 


124    MOUNT    KENNEDY. 

an  acre.  Another  third  lets  for  20s.  The 
remaining  fixth  at  9s. — Average  of  the  whole 
15s.  an  acre. 

The  courfes  of  crops  are  :  1 .  Potatoes ;  all 
the  dung  of  the  country  ufed  for  them.  2. 
Wheat  -,  fow  one  barrel,  and  get  on  an  aver- 
age 8   barrels. All  the  furrows  fhovelled. 

3.  Oats;  fow  near  2,  and  get  10  barrels.  4. 
Oats.  5.  Barley ;  fow  \  and  get  10,  and  then 
leave  it  for  lay  for  5  years,  never  fowing  any 
grafs  feeds.  It  produces  nothing  at  all  for 
three  years,  but  after  that  white  clover  comes 
ilowly. 

Barley  has  been  more  cultivated  upon  ac- 
count of  the  quantity  of  ale  and  beer  which 
is  brewed  here,  being  the  common  beverage 
through  the  county,  and  more  famous  for  it 
than  any  other.  The  barrel,  2-thirds  of  a 
hogfhead,  fells  at  40s.  Malt  malted  here  14s. 
a  barrel  j  the  barley  10s.  6d. 

Another  courfe :  1.  Marie,  or  lime-ftone 
gravel,  on  the  lay,  1600  loads  an  acre,  and 
fow  barley.     2.  Wheat.     3.  Oats  or    barley. 

4.  Oats  or  ditto,  till  left  to  lay  again.  Gra- 
velling they  generally  confider  as  a  right  to 
fix  or  eight  crops.  Their  wheat  after  pota- 
toes they  fow  fo  late  as  Chriftmas. 

Very  few  peafe,  and  no  beans,  nor  any 
rape;  and  not  a  turnip,  though  faw  great 
tracts  perfectly  adopted  to  that  crop.  They 
fow  alfo  very  little  of  flax,  having  no  fuch 

manufacture. 


MOUNT    KENNEDY.     125 

manufacture.  Their  potatoes  they  univerfal- 
ly  plant  on  an  old  lay-,  they  fpread  their 
dung  in  beds  for  the  trenching  way,  none 
under  the  plough.  Plant  8  to  10  barrels  on 
an  acre,  laid  at  6  inches  from  one  another. 
When  the  plants  are  about  an  inch  or  two 
high,  they  cover  them  a  fecond  time  from  the 
trenches.  They  hand  weed  them.  No  hir- 
ing land  of  farmers  for  it,  but  all  on  their  own 
account. 

There  are  many  copfes  on  the  fides  of 
mountains  of  birch,  oak,  afh,  and  holly, 
which  are  cut  generally  at  25  years  growth 
for  poles  for  building  cabbinsj  the  bark  for 
tan,  and  the  fmaller  branches  for  charcoal. 
They  are  worth  from  12I.  to  25I.  an  acre. 
Many  of  them  on  very  fteep  fides  of  moun- 
tains, and  to  a  great  height;  but  no  great 
oak  woods,  fince  the  Shillaly  woods  were  cut 
down  about  1 2  years  ago. 

There  are  confiderable  tra&s  of  mountain 
land  improved ;  if  dry  heath  land,  they  plough, 
crofs  plough,  burn,  and  then  fow  rye,  getting 
8  barrels,  after  which  they  have  oats,  and 
crop  it  as  long  as  it  will  produce.  Unim- 
proved mountain,  confifting  of  rock,  furze, 
(ulex  europoeus)  fern,  (pteris  aquilina)  &c.  but 
dry,  lets  at  8s.  an  acre,  at  which  rent  they 
have  it  for  31  years.  The  improvement  is 
reckoned  very  profitable.  No  folding  fheep: 
there  is  not  fuch  a  thing  as  a  hurdle  known. 
They  pare  and  burn  the  mountain  as  the  only 

way 


i26     MOUNT    KENNEDY. 

way  to  improve,  though  contrary  to  an  abfurd 
ad  of  parliament  againft  it. 

Lime  they  ufe  in  very  fmall  quantities,  and 
no  wonder,  for  it  is  the  Sutton  ftone  they 
bring  from  the  hill  of  Howth  to  Wicklow, 
where  it  is  burnt,  and  the  common  farmers 
bring  it  from  thence  at  the  expenfe  of  2s.  6d. 
the  ftatute  barrel  of  32  gallons.  They  lay 
from  20  to  60  on  an  acre,  chiefly  on  moun- 
tain ground.  Grey  marie,  with  lime-ftone 
gravel  in  ftrata,  abound  all  over  tie  country, 
with  other  ftrata  of  fand,  all  which  have  an 
efFervefcence  with  acids,  and  in  digging  they 
mix  together,  and  prove  of  infinite  benefit  to 
their  fields. 

Very  few  dairies,  fo  that  they  make  fcarce 
any  butter.  Their  cows  are  fubfervient  to 
their  lamb  fuckling,  and  leave  them  free  only 
in  fummer,  when  they  fat  calves  for  Dublin 
market.  Four  or  five  quarts  of  milk  at  a  meal 
is  the  common  quantity.  In  the  winter  they 
have  hay,  but  only  in  hard  weather.  No 
grazing  of  oxen.  As  to  fheep  their  fyftem  is 
particular  •  it  is  all  fuckling  lambs  for  Dublin 
market. 

General  Cunninghame  carried  me  to  a  far- 
mer who  is  reckoned  the  moll  able  in  that 
bufinefs  of  any  in  the  country,  and  the  fol- 
lowing is  the  account  he  gave  me  of  his  ma- 
nagement. He  breeds  his  own  lambs,  from  a 
ftock  partly  bought  in  every  year.  The  rams 
he  puts  to  the  ewes  the  middle  of  May,  in 

order 


MOUNT    KENNEDY.     127 

order  to  have  them  lamb  at  Michaelmas,  or  a 
little  after.     They  are  left  in  the  field  for  a 
week,  and  then  taken  into  the  houfe.     The 
ewes  are  brought  to  fuckle  them  twice  a  day 
in  general}    but   three  or    four  times,  while 
young  j  they  have  cows  milk  given  them  by 
women  from  their  mouths,  fquirted  down  the 
lambs  throats,  to  the  quantity  of  a  noggin  a 
day  at  firit,  and  rifes  to  \\  and  2.     A  noggin 
is  one-eighth    of  a  quart.     They  keep  them 
till  three  weeks  before  Chriftmas,  and  then 
begin  to  fell  them.     Their  ewes  are  kept  on 
grafs  only,  unlefs  in  bad  weather,  when  they 
have  hay.     He  fells  75  lambs  annually,  from 
a  ftock  of  80  rams  and  ewes,  at   33s.  on  an 
average-,  fome  up  to  40s.  for  thefe  lambs  he 
has  8  cows,  5  of  them  in  full  milk,  and  if  he 
has  not  cows  enough,  buys  in  for  the  purpofe. 
The  ewes  are  bought  in  at  9s.  each  in  July, 
and  fome  old  ones  are   fold  every  year  at  6s. 
14  acres  of  grafs  will  keep  80  fheep  until  the 
ftubbles  are  ready  for  them. 

In  this  fyftem  much  depends  on  having 
them  take  the  ram  in  proper  time  for  the 
Dublin  market.  In  order  to  accomplifh  this 
feemingly  difficult  bufmefs,  they  treat  the 
ladies  with  a  cup  of  generous  Wicklow  ale, 
and  drive  them  about  the  field,  in  order  to 
create  the  proper  ferment  between  their  blood 
and  the  ale,  and  then  at  the  critical  moment 
let  in  the  gentlemen.  Some  managers  more 
attentive  than  common,  treat  them  with  claret 
inftead  of  ale ;  perhaps  the  fwarms  of  children 

in 


128    MOUNT    KENNEDY. 

in  the  cabbins  are  owing  to  the  prolific  quality 
of  this  excellent  ale  of  Wicklow. 

The  wool  of  the  country  is  all  wrought  up 
by  the  inhabitants,  fpun,  combed,  and  wove 
into  flannel  and  frizes,  and  to  fuch  an  extent, 
that  the  mountain  farmers  pay  half  their  rents 
by  this  manufacture.  They  alfo  buy  much, 
not  having  enough  of  their  own :  it  is  all 
done  by  the  fmallefi:  farmers  going  through 
the  whole  manufacture  employing  cotters  in  it. 
By  fpinning,  a  woman  can  earn  3d.  a  day. 
Wool  now  14s.  to  17s.  the  ftone  of  i61b.  20 
years  ago  us.  no  rot  among  the  fheep.  On 
the  mountains  many  goats  are  kept  for  the 
milk,  which  is  drank  very  much  by  people 
from  Dublin,  who  take  lodgings  for  drinking 
goats  whey.     Kids  flcfh  reckoned  very  line. 

They  plough  with  bothhorfes  and  bullocks: 
two  horfes  and  two  bullocks,  and  one  bullock 
and  three  horfes^  and  do  from  one-half  to 
three-fourths  of  an  acre  a  day.  Stir  5  inches 
deep.  Very  few  or  no  oats  given  to  horfes. 
Chaff  all  thrown  away.  They  work  their 
draught  oxen  in  winter  on  ftraw.  Hire  of  a 
car,  a  horfe,  and  a  driver,  is.  6d.  a  day.  With 
4  cows,  2  horfes,  a  yearling,  and  20  fheep, 
General  Cunninghame  has  had  tenants  pro- 
fefTedly  take  50  acres  of  land. 

Land  fells  at  rack  rent  for  18  to  21  years 
purchafe  ;  5  or  6  years  ago  it  was  at  22.  Rents 
are  fallen  in  the  fame  time  4s.  in  the  pound. 
Tythes  are  paid   by  compofition ;  the  crops 

are 


MOUNT    KENNEDY.      129 

are  viewed,  and  they  agree  for  one  year.  An 
acre  of  wheat  1  os.  Barley  4s.  Oats  4s.  No 
tea  in  the  cabbins  on  the  mountains,  but  in 
the  towns  they  have  it.  Leafes  are  three  lives, 
or  31  years  j  a  vaft  proportion  re-let  3  or  4 
deep.  The  people  increafe  much.  Rent  of 
a  cabbin  in  a  village,  with  a  very  fmall  garden, 
2I.  2s.  to  3I.  if  not  in  a  village  it  is  lefs.  On  a 
mountain  50s.  to  3I.  for  a  cabbin  and  5  acres, 
but  generally  have  a  common  pafture  for  their 
cows,  &c.  Farms  much  taken  in  the  moun- 
tains by  partnership ;  3  or  4  will  take  100 
acres,  and  divide  among  themfelves  as  in  Kil- 
kenny. Lower  people  all  Roman  Catholics. 
No  emigrations.     No  white  boys. 

They  have  plenty  of  potatoes;  all. keep  a 
cow,  fome  more  ;  all  a  pig  or  more,  and  poul- 
try of  every  kind.  Their  fuel  is  turf  from 
the  mountains  ,  they  are  univerfal  pilferers  of 
every  thing  they  can  lay  their  hands  on  :  great 
lyars,  but  full  of  quicknefs  and  fagacity,  and 
grateful  to  excefs. 

Kifti  of  turf  iod.  delivered.  Oak  ribberies 
(fpars- for  cabbins  4s.  6d.  a  dozen.  Building 
a  cabbin  25  feet  long,  14  feet  wide,  with  a 
door  and  two  windows,  5I.  10s.  Ditto  ftone  and 
flate  20I.  Ditto  farm  houfe  and  offices  for  50 
acres,  of  ftone  and  fiate  200I. 

Expenfes  and  produce  of  General  Cunninghame's  farm. 
Rent  -  ',.   -'     -  £.  375     O     Q 

Labour  -  -     -  1 50     o     o 

Wear  and  tear  '  -  30     o     o 

L  $55     °     o 
Vol.  I.  K  4$  »cre« 


i3o    MOUNT    KENNEDY. 

48  acres  mown,  at  10  loads  an  acre,  at  10s.    £.  240     o  c? 

5  acres  of  wheat  1  o  barrels,  at  il.  is.  52   10  O 

10  — *  barley  14  ditto,  at  10s.  6d.  -             73   l0  ° 

17  — oats  13  ditto,  at  [09.              -  «           110   10  0 

2  —  peafe  9  ditto,  at  10s.             -  -           90a 

10  —  ("undries,  at  <)\.             *               -  50     o  o 

70  fheep  at  15*                -*             -  "          52   10  © 

Swine                 -            -             -  "               5     o-  • 

10  young  cattle  40s.             -               -  -     20     o  o 

16  horfes,  36  weeks,  at  2».  6d.             -  72     o  & 

5  oxen,  ditto  2S„  6d,                  ■»  22   10  O 

W  1  1  1 

£.  707  10    * 

In  two  acres  of  land  fummcr-fallowed  for 
wheat,  the  general  was  perfuaded  not  to  fovr 
it,  as  the  red-worm  would   infallibly  deftroy 
the  crop,  he  therefore  kept  it  for  barley,  but 
manured  it  with  lime,  90  barrels  an  acre  at 
2idi  each,  from  the  hill  of  Howth  in  Auguft  -, 
the  barley  was  eaten  notwithstanding  the  lime  ; 
it  was  a  very   poor  crop,  and  in   fome  places 
none  at  all.     Sowed  the  ftubble  with  peafe, 
-which  I  faw,  and  were  very  fine.     The  gene- 
ral tried  a  very  extraordinary  experiment  upon 
breaking  up  an  old  molTy  grafs  lay  in  an   or- 
chard, and  laying  it  down  again  without  hav- 
ing any  corn :  it  was  manured  with  plenty  of 
land,  then  ploughed  it  up  in  Auguft  ;  directly 
crofs- ploughed   it;   harrowed    it  thoroughly, 
$nd  threw  about  20  barrels  of  lime  an  acre ; 
burnt  the  roots,   weeds,  and  tufts   of  grafs, 
fprcad  the  afhes,  harrowed  it,  and  upon  that, 
about  the  beginning  of  September,  fowed  hay 
.feeds.     This  was  done  to  efcape  the  trouble  of 

a  courfe 


MOUNT    KENNEDY.     131 

a  courfe  of  tillage  among  trees.  The  fuccefs 
was  as  great  as  poffible  ;  I  favv  the  crop  of  hay- 
mown,  and  it  is  not  lefs  than  16  loads  an  acre. 
This  is  a  fyftem  which  in  many  cafes  would 
be  of  the  greateit  ute  in  reviving  old  hide- 
bound paftures  without  the  trouble  of  a  courfe 
of  tillage.  It  fhould,  however,  be  obferved, 
that  the  climate  of  Ireland  is  peculiarly  fa- 
vourable to  laying  land  to  grafs  at  that  feafon, 
for  it  grows  luxuriantly  quiie  till  Chriftmas. 

Another  inftance  of  this  natural  tendency 
of  the  foil  to  grafs,  is  a  trial  the  general  acci- 
dentally made.  He  had  a  fiiiall  field  under 
turnips,  which  he  heed  well,  and  were  a  fine 
crop  5  upon  being  drawn  to  feed  the  plough 
bullocks  with,  he  found  much  grafs  upon  the 
land,  fo  much,  that  it  induced  him  to  let  it 
ftand,  and  the  rather  as  it  was  laid  very  flat 
and  fmooth  with  the  turnips,  he  rolled  in  fome 
grai's  feeds,  and  it  turned  out  a  very  fine  mea- 
dow. He  was  the  firft  who  fowed  red  clover 
here,  and  is  not  yet  followed  by  the  farmers. 
He  encouraged  his  tenants  to  lime,  and  lends 
them  money  for  it.  Much  land  is  laid  to  grafs 
at  Mount  Kennedy,  and  all  of  it  done  in  a 
perfed  manner,  the  fu'rface  laid  completely 
fmooth,  without  the  leaft  fign  of  a  furrow, 
and  the  graffes  luxuriant ;  all  manured  richly 
with  gravel  and  marie. 

I  faw  two  large  compoft  dunghills  turning 
over  and  mixing,  a  fight  not  common  in  Ire- 
land.    It  pleafed  me  more  than  the  fight  of  a 
palace  would  have  done.     The  general  s  crops 
Ks  I  found 


i32     GLEN  OF  THE  DOWNS. 

I  found  all  exceedingly  fine,  one  field  of  oats 
the  beft  I  had  feen  in  Ireland. 

July  1 7th. — Took  my  leave  of  General  Cun- 
ninghame,  and  went  through  the  Glen  of  the 
downs  in  my  way  to  Powerfcourt.  The  Glen 
is  a  pafs  between  two  vaft  ridges  of  mountains 
covered  with  wood,  which  have  a  very  noble 
effect,  the  vale  is  no  wider  than  to  admit  the 
road,  a  fmall  gurgling  river  almoft  by  its  fide, 
and  narrow  flips  of  rocky  and  fhrubby'  ground 
which  parts  them  :  in  the  front  all  efcape  feems 
denied  by  an  immenfe  conical  mountain  which 
rifes  out  of  the  Glen,  and  feems  to  fill  it  up. 
The  fcenery  is  of  a  moft  magnificent  charac- 
ter. On  the  top  of  the  ridge  to  the  right  Mr. 
La  Touche  has  a  banqueting  room.  Paffing 
from  this  fublime  fcene,  the  road  leads  through 
chearful  grounds  all  under  corn,  fifing  and 
falling  to  the  eye,  and  then  to  a  vale  of  charm- 
ing verdure  broken  into  inclofures,  and  bound- 
ed by  two  rocky  mountains,  diftant  darker 
mountains  filling  up  the  fcene  in  front :  this 
whole  ride  is  interefiing,  for  within  a  mile  and 
an  half  of  Tinnyhinch  (the  inn  to  which  I 
was  directed)  you  come  to  a  delicious  view  on 
the  right,  a  fmall  vale  opening  to  the  fea, 
bounded  by  mountains,  whofe  dark  fhade 
forms  a -perfect  contraft  to  the  extreme  beauty 
and  lively  verdure  of  the  lower  fcene,  confirm- 
ing of  gently  fwelling  lawns  riling  from  each 
other,  with  groups  of  trees  betwTeen,  and  the 
whole  fo  prettily  fcattered  with  white  farms, 
as  to  add  every  idea  of  chearfulnefs.  Kept  on 
towards  Powerfcourt,  which  prefently  came 

i* 


POWERSCOURt      133 

in  view  from  the  edge  of  a  declivity.  You 
look  full  upon  the  houfe,  which  appears  to  be 
in  the  moft  beautiful  fituation  in  the  world, 
on  the  fide  of  a  mountain,  half  way  between 
its  bare  top,  and  an  irriguous  vale  at  its  foot. 
In  front,  and  fpreading  among  woods  on  either 
fide,  is  a  lawn  whofe  furface  is  beautifully 
varied  in  gentle  declivities,  hanging  to  a  wind- 
ing river. 

Lowering  the  hill  the  fcenery  is  yet  more 
agreeable,  the  near  inclofures  are  margined 
with  trees,  through  whofe  open  branches  are 
feen  whole  fields  of  the  molt  lively  verdure. 
The  trees  gather  into  groups,  and  the  lawn 
fwells  into  gentle  inequalities,  while  the  river 
winding  beneath  renders  the,  whole  truly  pleaf- 
ing. 

Breakfafted  at  the  inn  at  Tinnyhinch,  and 
then  drove  to  the  park  to  fee  the  water-fill. 
The  park  itfelf  is  fine  j  you  enter  it  between 
two  vaft  manes  of  mountain,  covered  with 
wood,  forming  a  vale  fcattered  with  trees, 
through  which  flows  a  river  on  a  broken  rocky 
channel:  you  follow  this  vale  till  it  is  loft  in 
a  moil  uncommon  manner,  the  ridges  of  moun- 
tain doling;,  form  one  great  amphitheatre  of 
wood,  from  the  top  of  which,  at  the  height 
of  many  hundred  feet,  burffs  the  water  from 
a  rock,  and  tumbling  down  the  fide  of  a  very 
large  one,  forms  a  fcene  fingularly  beautiful.. 
At  the  bottom  is  a  fpot  of  velvet  turf,  from 
wThich  rifes  a  clump  of  oaks,  and  through  their 
flems,  branches,  and  leaves,  the  falling  wat;r 

is 


i34     P  O  W  E  R  S  C  O  U  R  T. 

is  feen  as  a  back  ground  with  an  effect  more 
pidurefque  than  can  be  well  imagined;  thefe 
few  trees,  and  this  little  lawn,  give  the  finiili- 
ing  to  the  fcene.  The  water  falls  behind  fome 
large  fragments  of  rock,  and  turns  to  the  left, 
down  a  ftony  channel,  under  the  fhadc  of  a 
wood. 

Returning  to  Tinnyhinch,  I  went  to  fnnif- 
kerry,  and  gained  by  this  detour  in  my  return 
to  go  to  the  Dargle,  a  beautiful  view  which  I 
fhould  otberwjfe  have  loft;  the  road  runs  on 
the  edge  of  a  declivity,  from  whence  there  is 
a  moft  pleafing  profpecl:  of  the  river's  courfe 
through  the  vale,  and  the  wood  qf  Powers- 
court,  which  here  appear  in  large  malTes  of 
dark  ihade,  the  whole  bounded  by  mountains. 
Turn  to  the  left  into  the  private  road  that 
leads  to  the  Dargle,  and  prefently  gives  a  fpe- 
cimen  of  what  is  to  be  expecled  by  a  romantic 
glen  of  wood,  where  the  high  lands  almoft 
lock  into  each  other,  and  leave  fcarce  a  pafTage 
for  the  river  at  bottom,  which  rages,  as  if 
with  difficulty  forcing  its  way.  It  is  topped 
by  a  high  mountain,  and  in  front  you  catch 
a  beaufiful  plat  of  inclofures  bounded  by  the 
fea.  Enter  the  Dargle,  which  is  the  name  of 
a  Glen  near  a  mile  long.  Come  prefently  to 
one  of  the  fineft  ranges  of  wood  I  have  any 
where  feen  :  it  is  a  narrow  sjen  or  vale  form' 
ed  by  the  fides  of  two  oppoiite  mountains  ; 
the  whole  thickly  fpread  with  oak  wood,  at 
the  bottom  (and  the  depth  is  immenfe),  it  is 
narrowed  to  the  mere  channel  of  the  river, 
which  rather  tumbles  from  rock  to  rock  than 

runs. 


THEDARGLE.  i35 

runs.  The  extent  of  wood  that  hangs  to  the 
eye  in  every  direction  is  great,  the  depth  of 
die  precipice  on  which  you  ftand  immenfe, 
which  with  the  roar  of  the  water  at  bottom 
forms  a  fcene  truly  interefting.  In  lefs  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  the  road  pa  fling  through 
the  wood  leads  to  another  point  of  view  to 
the  right.  It  is  the  crown  of  a  vaft  projecting 
rock,  from  which  you  look  down  a  precipice 
abfolutely  perpendicular,  and  many  hundred 
feet  deep  upon  the  torrent  at  the  bottom, 
which  finds  its  noify  way  over  large  fragments 
of  rock.  The  point  of  view  is  a  great  pro- 
jection of  the  mountain  on  this  fide,  anfwer- 
.ed  by  a  concave  of  the  oppofite,  lb  that  you 
command  the  Glen  both  to  the  right  and  left : 
it  exhibits  on  both,  immenfe  fheets  of  foreft, 
which  have  a  moft  magnificent  appearance. 
Beyond  the  wood,  to  the  right,  are  fome  in- 
clofures  hanging  on  the  fide  of  a  hill,  crowned 
by  a  mountain.  I  know  not  how  to  leave  fo 
interesting;  a  fpot,  the  impreffions  raifed  by  it 
are  ftrong.  The  folemnity  of  fuch  an  extent 
of  wood  unbroken  by  any  intervening  objects, 
and  the  whole  hanging  over  declivities  is  alone 
great ;  but  to  this  the  addition  of  a  conltant 
roar  of  falling  water,  either  quite  hid,  or  fo 
far  below  as  to  \>e  feen  but  obfcu rely  united  to 
make  thofe  impreflions  ftronger.  No  contrar 
dictory  emotions  are  raifed  —  no  ill-judged 
temples  appear  to  enliven  a  fcene  that  is 
gloomy,  rather  than  gay.  Falling  or  moving 
water  is  a  lively  object j  but  this  being  ob- 
fcure,  the  noife  operates  differently.  Follow- 
ing the  road  a  little  further,  there  is  another 

bold 


136         T  H  E    D  A  R  G  L  E. 

bold  rocky  proje&ion   from  which  alfo,  there 
is   a  double  view  to  the   right  and  left.     In 
front  fo  immenfe  a   fweep  of  hanging  wood, 
that  a  nobler  fcene  can  hardly  be  imagined  : 
the  river9  as   before,    at  the   bottom   of  the 
precipice,  which  is  fo  fteep  and  the  depth  fo 
great,  as  to  be  quite  fearful  to  look  down. 
This  horrid  precipice,  the  pointed  bleak  moun- 
tains in  view,  with  the  roar  of  the  water,  all 
confpire   to    raife   one  great   emotion  of  the 
fublime.     You  advance  fcarccly  20  yards  be- 
fore a  pretty  fcene  opens  to  the  left,  a  diftant 
landfcape  of  inclofures,  with  a  river  winding 
between  the.  hills  to  the  fea.     Palling  to  the 
right,  freiTi  fcenes  of  wood  appear ;  half  way 
to  the  bottom,  one  different  from  the  preced- 
ing is  feeiij  you  are  almofl  inclofed  in  w7Ood, 
and  look  to  the  right  through  fome  low  oaks 
on  the  oppofite  bank  of  wood7  with  an  edg- 
ing of  trees  through  which   the  iky  is  feen, 
which  added  to  an  uncommon  elegance  in  the 
outline  of  the  hill,  has  a  moft  pleaiing  effect. 
Winding  down  to  a  thatched  bench  on  a  rocky 
point,  you  look  upon  an  uncommon   fcene, 
Immediately  beneath   is  a  vaft  chafm  in  the 
rock,    wThich  feems    torn  afunder,  to  let  the 
torrent  through  that  comes  tumbling  over  a 
rocky   bed  far  funk  in  a  channel  embofomed 
in  wood.     Above  is  a  range  of  gloomy  obfeure 
woods,  which  half  overfhadow  it,  and  rifing 
to  a  vaft  height,  exclude  every  object.     To 
the  left  the  water  rolls  away  over  broken  rocks : 
a  fcene  truly  romantic.     Followed  the  path  :  it 
led  me  to  the  water's  edee,  at  the  bottom  of  the 
Glen,  where  is  a  nev;  fcene,  in  which  not  a 

finale 


K    I     L     R     U    E.  137 

finale  circumftance  hurts  the  principal  cha- 
racter. In  a  hollow  formed  of  rock  and  wood 
(every  objeft excluded  but  thofe  and  water)  the 
torrent  breaks  forth  from  fragments  of  rock, 
and  tumbles  through  the  chafm,  rocks  bul- 
ging over  it,  as  if  ready  to  fall  into  the  chan- 
nel, and  flop  the  impetuous  water.  The 
fhade  is  fo  thick  as  to  exclude  the  heavens,  all 
is  retired  and  gloomy,  a  brown  horror  breath- 
ing over  the  whole.  It  is  a  fpot  for  melan- 
choly to  mufe  in. 

Return  to  the  carriage,  and  quit  the  Dargle, 
which  upon  the  whole  is  a  very  Angular  place, 
different  from  all  I  have  feen  in  England,  and, 
I  think,  preferable  to  moil.  Cro'fs  a  mur- 
muring ftream  clear  as  chryital,  and  riling  a 
hill,  look  back  on  a  pleafing  landfcape  of  in- 
clofures,  which  waving  over  hills,  end  in 
mountains  of  a  very  noble  character.  Reach 
Dublin. 

July  1 8th,  once  more  to  Lord  Harcourt's  at 
St.  Woolftan's,  where  I  was  fo  fortunate  as 
to  meet  Colonel  Burton :  he  gave  me  a  frefb 
packet  of  recommendations  into  the  north  of 
Ireland,  and   taking  my   leave  of  his  excel- 
lency, paffed  Manooth  to  Kilrue.     From  Cell- 
bridge  to  Manooth  is  a  line  of  very  fine  corn. 
Paffed  Dunboyne,  from  thence  to  Kilrue  ;  the 
foil   is  clay,  flat   and  ftrong,  and  I  obferved 
much  hollow  draining  going  on,  with  very 
fine  crops  of  wheat  and  oats.    The  land  about 
Mr.  Jones  is  very  fine  rich  ftrong  loam,  called 
here  clay. 

Mn 


138  K    I    L    R    U    E, 

Mr.  Lowther,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter,  not 
being  at  home,  I  was  forced  to  take  refuge  in 
a  cabbin,  called  an  inn,  at  Ratoath.  Prefervc 
me,  fates !  from  fuch  another. 

In   their  ftrong   lands  about   Kilrue  their 

courfes  are  : — j.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  yielding 
8  to  15  barrels  an  acre.  3.  Oats,  9  to  20 
barrels. 

1.  Potatoes  80  barrels.  1.  Potatoes. 

2.  Beans  7  to  15.  2.  Barley  9  to  14, 

3.  Oats.  3.  Oats. 

Limeftone  gravel  they  ufe  in  great  quanti- 
ties ;  lay  it  on  a  fallow,  and  it  lafts  7  years, 
the  expenfe  from  4I.  to  81.  Lime  they  alfo 
have,  but  find  that  it  will  not  laft  like  gravel. 
Hollow,  called  French  drains,  are  very  gene- 
ral, even  among  the  common  farmers :  fome 
done  with  flones,  but  much  with  fods,  laid 
an  edge  in  the  ground,  they  dig  them  2£  or  3 
feet  deep,  at  two  feet  and  an  half,  the  expenfe 
is  5d.  a  perch.  At  3  feet  it  is  8d.  Clover 
they  fow  pretty  much,  let  it  lie  two  years, 
and  then  break  it  up  for  oats  on  one  plough- 
ing. They  fow  it  on  both  winter  and  fpring 
corn.  The  poor  give  5I.  5s.  an  acre  for  lay  to 
plant  potatoes  on,  and  the  fame  for  ftubbled 
ground  dunged.  A  cabbin  and  half  an  acre 
of  land  30s.  rent,  and  30s.  more  for  a  cow's 
feed.  Farms  rife  to  300  acres,  and  rents  frqm 
1 8s.  to  25s.  an  acre. 

July  19th,  left  Ratoath,  parTing  Robert's- 
town,  found  much  of  the  land  a  ftrong  loam 

without 


H     A    M     P     T     O     N.         139 

without  {lones,  with  all  the  appearance  of 
being  a  very  fine  foil.  Got  to  Baron  Hamil- 
ton's at  Hampton,  near  Baibriggen,  by  break- 
falt.  His  houfe  is  new  built,  and  ftands  a- 
greeably  by  a  fine  fhore,  with  a  full  view  of 
the  mountains  of  Mourn,  at  1.6  leagues  dis- 
tance, and  the  ifles  of  Skerry  near  him,  much 
improving  his  view.  He  favoured  me  with 
the  following  account. 

About  Hampton,  the  foil  clay  or  (hong 
loam,  and  many  fiones  in  it  -,  lets  from  20s. 
to  30s.  Farms  rife  from  40  acres  to  100  and 
150.     No  taking  in  partnership.     Courfes: 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  7  barrrels.  3.  Barley, 
10  to  12.     4.  Oats,   10. 

I.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Barley.  4. 
White  peafe. 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Barley.  4.  Oats. 
5   Clover  for  2  years.     6.  Wheat  or  fallow. 

The  manures  lime,  fea-fand,  marie,  and 
lime-ftone  gravel  got  three  feet  (deep.  Lime 
6d.  to  8d  at  the  k  In  ;  tjiey  lay  from  100  to 
1  50  barrels,  which  laft  8  or  9  years ;  on  the 
dry  foils  beft.  On  clay  well  drained,  they 
fpread  of  lime-ftone  gravel,  that  has  a  ftrong 
fermentation,  300  to  400  loads,  generally  out 
of  drains,  ditches,  &c.  draining  their  lands  at 
the  fame  time  ;  lafts  long,  and  is  beft  on  ftrong 
land.  Sea  fand  on  poor  clay  excellent ;  lay 
300  barrels  an  acre,  which  is  a  good  dreffing ; 
lafts  many  years,  and  changes  it  from  fcutch 
(triticam  repens)  to  white  clover;  it  has  an 
efTervefcence  with  acids.     The  marie  white 

under 


140        HAMPTON. 

under  black  bottoms;  300  loads  an  acre.     On 
new  lays  the  Baron  has  found  a  very  fine  effect 
from  it.     Flax  chiefly  after  potatoes,  and  then 
barley.     Sow  enough  for  their  own  ufe,  not 
enough  for  manufactures  for  fale.     For  pota- 
toes 4I.  an   acre   for  dunged  land,  or  lay  on 
dung  and  have  it  for  nothing.     Much  French 
draining,  4  feet  deep,  and  5  inches  at  bottom; 
fill  with  ftones,  and  the  improvement  found 
very  great ;  the  common  farmers  do  much  of 
it.      Tillage   moftly  with    horfes.     In  hiring 
farms  they    will  take    100  acres   with    200I. 
Tythes  are  generally  compounded.   The  Baron 
has  800I.  a  year  in  tythes,  and  they  pay  upon 
an  average  2s.  an  acre.    If  diftinguilhed,  wheat 
is  Ss.  or  9s.     Barley  8s.     Oats  5s.     Peafe  4s, 
Meadow  4s.  6d.     Many  lands  are  hired  to  be 
relet.     Population  encreafes  very  faft,  and  the 
country  in  every  refpect  improves  amazingly. 
A  cottage  and  half  an  acre  40s.  to  3I.  for  a 
cow  30s.  generally  have  2  cows.     A  belly  full 
of  potatoes  and  oatmeal  tox  ft ir- about ;  keep  2 
or  3  pigs,  and  a  great  deal  of  poultry.     They 
are  univerfally  much  better  oif  in  every  re- 
fpe£i  than    20  years  ago.     More  indufirious, 
owing  perhaps  very  much  to  the  high  rents ; 
infbmuch  that  they  have  been  the  parent  of  all 
improvements.     All  the  manures  have  been 
found  out   within  20  years.     Lime  has  not 
been  uftd  more  than  10  years.     When  Baron 
Hamilton  built  the  pier  at  Balbriggen,  in  the 
year  1763,  there  was  only  one  floop  of  culm 
for  burning  lime  in   a   feafon,  but  now  from 
6©  to  100. 

Cattls 


H    A     M    P    T    O    N.        141 

Cattle  of  all  forts  a  very  inferior  object  here. 
This  place  is  in  Fingal,  which  is  a  territory 
from  near  Dublin,  extending  along  the  coaft, 
inhabited  by  a  people  they  call  Fingalians  -, 
an  English  colony  planted  here  many  years 
ago,  fpeaking  nearly  the  fame  language  as 
the  barony  of  Forth,  but  more  intermixed 
with  Irifh  in  language,  &c.  from  vicinity  to 
the  capital* 

A  horfe  and  car  and  driver  is.  two  cars  to  a 
driver.  The  rife  of  labour  great,  20  years, 
from  4d.  to  6d.  An  extraordinary  circum- 
ftance  is,  that  Ireland  has  been  very  profpe- 
rous  on  comparifon  with  former  times,  and  yet 
intereft  of  money  now  6  per  cent,  and  20  years 
ago  41  and  5.  Land  fells  at  under  20  years 
purchafe,  fallen  from  24  in  4  or  5  years,  ow- 
ing partly  to  the  rents  being  run  up  too  high. 

Baron  Hamilton  has  been  a  confiderable 
improver;  he  took  in  near  Hampton  150 
acres  mountain  land,  covered  with  fcutch 
grafs  (triticum  repem)  furz,  (ukx  suropoeus) 
and  a  little  heath  (erica  vulgaris} ;  flubbed  it 
up,  ploughed  it  4  times,  limed  it  140  to  150 
barrels  each  acre.  Sowed  rye,  fold  it  on  the 
land  7I.  1  os.  an  acre.  For  two  fucceflive  years 
let  it  at  4I.  ics.  an  acre  for  two  crops  of  oats, 
which  yielded  from  16  to  20  barrels  an  acre  ; 
then  two  years  more  at  3I.  1  ;s.  and  3I.  10s. 
the  crop  14  barrels.  Fallowed  it  to  deitroy 
fcutch  grafs  for  maflin,  and  then  a  crop  of 
fpring  corn  with  grafs  feed.  This  is  the  courfe 
in  which  tfee  rough  ground  has  been  generally 

improved- 


142        HAMPTON. 

improved.  This  foil  clay  without  much  ftonc. 
In  its  rough  ftate  worth  only  5s.  an  acre  to 
remain  fo,  but  the  Baron  paid  16s.  6d.  The 
ftrft  year's  expenfe  was,  crop  included,  iol. 
an  acre,  now  worth  20s.  to  28s,  an  acre. 

The  Baron  carried  me  to  Balbriggen,  a  little 
fea  port  of  his,  which  owes  its  being  to  his  care 
and  attention.  It  fubfifts  by  its  fiihing  boats, 
which  he  builds;  has  23  of  them,  each  carry- 
ing 7  men,  who  are  not  paid  wages,  but  di- 
vide the  produce  of  their  fifhery.  The  veffel 
takes  one  fhare,  and  the  hands  one  each,  which 
amounts  on  an  average  to  1 6s.  a  week.  A 
boat  cofts  from  130I.  to  200I.  fitted  out  ready 
for  the  fifhery:  they  make  their  own  nets. 
The  port  owes  its  exiftence  to  a  very  fiae  pier 
which  Baron  Hamilton  built,  within  which 
fhips  of  200  tons  can  lay  their  broad  fides, 
and  unload  in  the  quay.  Such  veffels  bring 
coals  and  culm  from  Wales,  &c.  The  bafe  of 
the  pier  is  1 8  feet  thick,  and  on  the  outfide  is 
a  confiderable  rampart  of  great  fragments  of 
rock,  funk  to  defend  the  pier  againft  the  waves. 
In  moving  thefe  huge  ftones,  fome  of  which 
wreigh  8  or  10  ton,  the  Baron  made  ufe  of  a 
contrivance  which  deferves  to  be  generally 
known.  They  are  fpread  along  the  fhore,  be- 
tween high  and  low  water  mark,  but  to  get 
them  to  the  place  where  wanted  was  a  very 
difficult  bufinefs.  He  laflied  puncheons  to 
them  at  low  water,  which  floated  them  when 
the  tide  came  in,  and  conveyed  them  over  the 
fpot  where  wanted;  but  in  difengaging  the 
calks  from  the  ftone  to  fink  the  latter,  he  often 

had 


BALLY-GARTH.      143 

had  them  broken,  and  found  many  difficulties. 
To  remedy  this,  he  had  a  contrivance  very 
fimple  and  ingenious,  which  anfwered  the 
purpofe  completely.  The  puncheons  were 
hooped  ftrongly  with  iron  near  each  end,  and 
between  thefe  irons  was  a  chain,  from  the 
centre  of  which  went  an  iron  tongue.  The 
Hones,  at  low  water,  were  lafhed  round  with 
a  chain  with  open  irons  that  correfponded  with 
thofe  tongues  in  the  cafk  chainsr  the  one  went 
into  the  other,  and  when  clofed  had  a  female 
fcrew  through  all  three-,  through  the  two  jaws 
of  the  one,  and  the  tongue  of  the  other,  a 
male  fcrew  at  the  end  of  a  bar^was  then  fcrew- 
ed  in  when  the  ftone  wTas  ready  to  move.  One 
of  8  tons  required  10  puncheons  upon  being- 
floated  over  the  fpot  where  wTanted ;  thefe  bars 
v/ere  unferewed,  and  the  ftone  and  cafks  dif- 
engaged  at  once  without  trouble,  the  one  fink- 
ing, and  the  cafes  floating  away  with  the  chain 
that  was  lafned  round  the  ftone. 

Left  Balbriggen  and  went  to  Bally-garth, 

the  feat  of Pepper,  Efq;  a  place  very  a- 

greeably  wooded  on  a  riling   ground  above  a 

river. 

Mr.  Pepper  keeps  a  confiderable  domain  in 
his  hands,  and  has  practiced  feveral  parts  of 
hufbandry  with  much  attention ;  he  has  laid 
down  large  tra&s  to  grafs,  which  he  has  made 
fo  good  that  he  could  let  it  readily  for  50s.  to 
3I.  an  acre.  His  courfe  of  crops  has  been 
fometimes,  I.  Turnips.  2.  Barley.  3.  Clover. 
4.  Wheat ;  and  has  cultivated  turnips  in  con- 
fiderable 


744  BALLY-GARTH, 
fiderable  quantities.  In  fevcral  particulars, 
which  I  faw  myfclf,  Mr.  Pepper  appears  an 
excellent  farmer.  His  quick  fences  were  in 
perfecl  order ;  his  wet  lands  hollow  drained, 
and  the  mouths  of  the  drains  well  faced  with 
ftone.  The  old  ditch  earth  on  the  borders  of 
his  fields  was  carting  away  to  form  compofts  ; 
he  did  it  by  contract,  the  men  digging  and 
leading  it  from  20  to  30  perches,  driving  and 
finding  horfes  and  cars  at  5d.  a  fcore  loads,  each 
a  barrel.  This  is  much  ogainft  the  Jrifh  cars, 
lor  4  horfes  carry  but  16  bufhels  of  earth, 
whereas  3  in  an  Englifli  cart  would  carry  dou- 
ble that.  Mr.  Pepper  is  much  a  friend  to  them 
for  fome  things,  but  in  others  thinks  that  two 
horfe  carts  are  preferable;  with  2  horfes  in  a 
well  made  cart,  he  fends  10  barrels  to  Dublin, 
whereas  2  horfes  in  2  cars  carry  but  5  or  6  bar- 
rels, which  is  a  great  inferiority  ;  but  he  likes 
the  little  one  horfe  cart  better  ftill,  which 
brings  him  3  barrels  of  coals,  lime,  &c.  A  cir- 
cumftance  in  the  fattening  of  cattle,  in  wThich 
he  is  peculiar,  is,  not  letting  his  bulls  go  among 
his  fattening  cows;  he  never  does  this,  and 
finds  that  they  fat  as  well  without  as  with  it. 
In  breeding  fheep  he  is  attentive,  finding  it  a 
profitable  branch  of  farming.  He  keeps  his 
lambs  till  they  are  2-year-old  wethers,  and  fells 
them  in  fpring  at  35s.  each  on  an  average  ;  but 
could  not  do  it  without  the  affiftance  of  turnips. 
His  ewes  clip  81b.  of  wool,  and  his  lambs  7 lb. 
20  acres  of  grafs  will  carry  100  through  the 
year,  except  the  turnip  feafon.  SeafandMr. 
Pepper  fpreads  on  his  clay  meadows,  and  finds 
the  benefit  of  it  very  great. 

In 


THE    BOYNE.  145 

In  convevfation  on  the  common  people,  Mr. 
Pepper  affured  me  he  never  found  them  more 
difhoneft  than  in  other  countries.  They  would 
thieve  flightly  till  they  found  him  refolute  m 
punifhin^  all  he  difcovered  •  even  his  turnips 
have  fuffered  very  little  depredation. 

July  20th,  to  Drogheda,  a  well  built  town, 
active  in  trade,  the  Bo,  ne  bringing  {hips  to  it. 
It  w  s  market  day,  and  I  found  the  quantity 
of  corn,  &c.  and  the  number  of  people  affem- 
bled  very  great  ±  few  country  markets  in  Eng- 
land more  thronged.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Nefbit, 
to  whom  recommended,  abfent,  which  was  a 
great  1  fs  to  me,  as  I  had  feveral  enquiries 
which  remained  unfatisfied. 

To  the  field  of  battle  on  the  Boy ne.-—  The 
view  of  the  fcene  from  a  rifing  ground  which 
looks  down  upon  it  is  exceedingly  beautiful, 
being  one  of  the  completed  la ndfeapes  I  have 
feen.  It  is  a  vale,  loofing  itfelf  in  front  be- 
tween bold  declivities,  above  which  are  fome 
thick  woods,  and  aidant  country.  Through 
the  vale  the  river  winds  and  forms  an  iiland, 
the  point  of  which  is  tufted  with  trees  in  the 
prettied  manner  imaginable  j  on  the  other  fide 
a  rich  fcencry  of  wood,  among  which  is  Doc- 
tor Norris's  houfe.-  To  the  right  on  a  rifing 
ground  on  the  barks  of  the  river  is  the  obelilk, 
backed  by  a  very  bold  declivity;  purfued  the 
road  till  near  it,  quitted  my  chaife,  and  walk- 
ed to  the  foot  of  it.  It  is  founded  on  a  rock 
which   rifes  boldly  from  the  river.     It  is  a  no- 

Vol.  I.  L  ble 


i46  C    U    L    L    E    N. 

ble  pillar,  and  admirably  placed.  I  feated  my- 
felf  on  the  oppofite  rock,  and  indulged  the 
emotions  which  with  a  melancholy  not  un- 
pleafing  filled  my  bofom,  while  I  reflected  on 
the  confequences  that  had  fprung  from  the 
victory  here  obtained.  Liberty  was  then  tri- 
umphant. May  the  virtues  of  our  pofterity 
fecure  that  prize  which  the  bravery  of  their 
anceftors  won !  Peace  to  the  memory  of  the 
Prince  to  whom,  whatever  might  be  his  fail- 
ings, we  owed  that  day  memorable  in  the  an- 
nals of  Europe ! 

Returned  part  of  the  way,  and  took  the  road 
toCullen,  where  the  Lord  Chief  Baron  For- 
mer received  me  in  the  molt  obliging  manner, 
and  gave  me  a  variety  of  information  uncom- 
monly valuable.  He  has  made  the  greateft 
improvements  I  have  any  where  met  with. 
The  whole  country  22  years  ago  was  a  wafte 
fheep  walk,  covered  chiefly  with  heath,  with 
fome  dwarf  furz  and  fern.  The  cabbins  and 
people  as  mi fer able  as  can  be  conceived;  not 
a  proteltant  in  the  country,  nor  a  road  pafTa- 
ble  for  a  carriage.  In  a  word,  perfectly  re- 
iemblirig  other  mountainous  tracts,  and  the 
whole  yielding  a  rent  of  not  more  than  from 
3s.  to  4s.  an  acre.  Mr.  Forfter  could  not  bear 
$0  barren  a  property,  and  determined  to  at- 
tempt the  improvement  of  an  eflate  of  5000 
acres  till  then  deemed  irreclaimable.  He  en- 
couraged the  tenants  by  every  fpecies  of  per- 
fuafion  and  expenfe,  but  they  had  fo  ill  an 
opinion  of  the  land  that  he  was  forced  to  be- 
gin 


C    U    L    L    E    N.  147 

gin  with  2  or  3000  acres  in  his  own  hands ; 
he  did  not,  however,  turn  out  the  people,  but 
kept  them  in  to  fee  the  effect  of  his  operations. 

Thefe  were  of  a  magnitude  I  have  never 
heard  before:  he  had  for  feveral  years  27  lime- 
kilns burning  ftone,  which  was  brought  four 
miles  with  culm  from  Milford  Haven.  He 
had  450  cars  employed  by  thefe  kilns,  and 
paid  700I.  a  year  for  culm  :  the  Hone  was 
quarried  by  from  60  to  80  men  regularly  at 
that  work ;  this  was  doing  the  bufinefs  with 
imcomparable  fpirit — yet  had  he  no  peculiar 
advantages,  but  many  circumftances  againfl 
him,  among  which  his  conftant  attendance  on 
the  courts,  which  enabled  him  to  fee  Cullen 
but  by  flarts,  was  not  the  leait.  The  works 
were  necefTarily  left  to  others  at  a  time  that 
he  could  have  wifhed  conftantly  to  have  at- 
tended them. 

While  this  vaft  bufinefs  of  liming  was  go- 
ing forwards,  roads  were  alfo  making,  and  the 
whole  tract  inclofed  in  fields  of  about  10  acres 
each,  with  ditches  7  feet  wide,  and  6  deep,  at 
is.  a  perch,  the  banks  planted  with  quick  and 
foreft  trees.  Of  thefe  fences  70,000  perches 
were  done. 

In  order  to  create-a  new  race  of  tenants,  he 
fixed  upon  the  moft  a&ive  and  induftrious  la- 
bourers, bought  them  cows,  &c.  and  advanced 
money  to  begin  with  little  farms,  leaving 
them  to  pay  it  as  they  could*  Thefe  men  he 
L  2  nmfed 


1 48  C    U    L    L    E    N. 

nurfed  up  in  proportion  to  their  induflry,  and 
fome  of  them  are  now  good  farmers,  with  4 
or  500I.  each  in  their  pockets.  He  dictated  to 
them  what  they  fhould  do  with  their  lands, 
promifing  to  pay  the  lofs,  if  any  fhould  hap- 
pen, while  all  the  advantage  would  be  their 
own.  They  obeyed  him  implicitly,  and  he 
never  had  a  demand  for  a  (hilling  lofs. 

He  fixed  a  colony  of  French  and  Bnglifh 
Proteftants  on  the  land,  which  have  flourifhed 
greatly.  In  Cullen  are  50  families  of  trades- 
men, among  whom  fobriety  and  induflry  are 
perfe&ly  eflablifhed. 

Many  of  thefe  lands  being  very  wet,  drain- 
ing was  a  coniiderable  operation:  this  he  did 
very  efTeclually,  burying  in  the  drains  feveral 
millions  of  loads  of  ilones. 

The  mode  in  which  the  chief  baron  carried 
on  the  improvement,  was  by  fallowing.  He 
flubbed  the  furze,  &c.  and  ploughed  it,  upon 
which  he  fpread  from  140  to  170  barrels  of 
lime  per  acre,  proportioning  the  quantity  to 
the  mould  or  clay  which  the  plough  turned  up. 
For  experiment  he  tried  as  far  as  300  barrels, 
and  always  found  that  the  greater  the  quanti- 
ty* the  greater  the  improvement.  The  lime 
coil  him  c)d.  a  barrel  on  the  land:  his  ufual 
quantity  160,  at  the  expenfe  of  61.  an  acre, 
and  the  total  of  that  expenfe  alone  thirty 
thoufand  pounds !  After  the  liming,  fallowed 
the  land  for  rye,  and  after  the  rye  took  two 

crops 


C     U    L    L    E    N.  i49 

crops  of  oats.  Throughout  the  improvement, 
the  lime  has  been  fo  exceedingly  beneficial 
that  he  attributes  his  fuccefs  principally  to  the 
life  of  it.  Without  it,  all  other  circumftances 
equal,  he  has  got  3  or  4  barrels  an  acre  of  oats, 
but  with  it  20  and  22  of  barley.  Has  compar- 
ed lime  and  white  marie  on  an  improved  moun- 
tain-foil for  flax,  that  on  the  lime  produce4 
1 000  lb.  well  fcutched,  the  other  300  lb. 

His  great  object  was  to  (hew  the  tenantry 
as  foon  as  he  could,  what  thefe  improvements 
would  do  in  corn,  in  order  to  fet  them  to  work 
themfelves.  He  fold  them  the  corn  crops  on 
the  ground  at  40s.  an  acre:  the  three  crops 
paid  him  therefore  the  expenfe  of  the  liming, 
at  the  fame  time  they  were  profitable  bargains 
to  the  tenants.  With  the  third  corn-crop  the 
land  was  laid  down  to  grafs.  Upon  this  ope-^ 
ration,  after  the  manuring,  ditching  and  drain- 
ing, the  old  tenants  very  readily  hired  them. 
Some  feeing  the  benefit  of  the  works,  execut- 
ed them  upon  their  own  lands  ;  but  their  land- 
lord advanced  all  the  money,  and  trufted  to 
their  fuccefs  and  honefly  for  the  payment. 
This  change  of  their  fentiments  induced  him 
to  build  new  farni-hou fes,  of  which  he  has 
erected  above  30,  all  of  lime  and  ftone,  at  the 
expenfe  of  above  40I.  a  houfe;  the  farms  are 
in  general  about  80  acres  each. 

After  fix  or  feven  years,  the  chief  baron  Iim« 
ed  much  of  it  a  fecond  time  on  the  fod,  anc? 
the  benefit  of  it  very  great.     It  is  all  let  now 

on 


i5o  C    U    L    L    E    N. 

on  an  average  at  20s.  an  acre.  Upon  the 
whole,  his  Lordfhip  is  clearly  of  opinion  that 
the  improvement  has  been  exceedingly  profita- 
ble to  him,  befides  the  pleafure  that  has  at- 
tended fo  uncommon  a  creation.  He  would 
recommend  a  ilmilar  undertaking  to  others 
who  poiTefs  waftes,  and  if  he  had  fuch  ano- 
ther eftate  he  would  undertake  it  himfelf. 

He  alfo  allotted  a  confiderable  tract  of  many 
acres  for  plantations,  which  are  well  placed 
and  flourishing.  Ridings  are  cut  in  them,  and 
they  form  a  very  agreeable  fcenery.  Mr. 
Forfter,  his  fon,  takes  much  pleafure  in  add- 
ing to  them,  and  has  introduced  1700  forts  of 
European  and  American  plants.  The  coun- 
try is  now  a  lheet  of  corn  :  a  greater  improve- 
ment I  have  not  heard  of,  or  one  which  did 
more  genuine  honour  to  the  perfon  that  un- 
dertook it. 

This  great  improver,  a  title  more  de- 
ferving  eftimation  than  that  of  a  great  general 
or  a  great  minifter,  lives  now  to  overlook  a 
country  flourishing  only  from  his  exertions. 
He  has  made  a  barren  wildernefs  fmile  with 
cultivation,  planted  it  with  people,  and  made 
thofe  people  happy.  Such  are  the  men  to 
whom  monarchs  Should  decree  their  honours, 
and  nations  erect  their  Statues. 

Some  other  circumftances  I  learnt  from  his 
Lordihip  were  :  more  than  half  the  county  of 
Louth,  which  is  one  of  the  belt  in  Ireland  for 

tillage, 


C    U    L    L    E    N.  151 

tillage,  is  every  year  tinder  corn,  25  years  ago, 
it  was  all  at  10s.  an  acre,  now  21s.  Corn-acre 
rents,  40  years  ago,  were  25s. — 25  years  ago 
30s. — now  3I.  1 2s.  Conjectures  one  family  to 
every  10  acres  in  the  county,  exclusive  of 
towns :  found  this  by  obferving  generally  four 
families  to  every  farm  of  40  acres. 

The  general  courfe  of  crops  in  Louth  is :  1. 
Fallow.  2.  Wheat,  the  produce  6  barrels.  3. 
Oats,  ditto  15  barrels.  4.  Barley,  ditto  15 
barrels.  5.  Oats.  6.  Grafs  feeds  fown,  or 
left  wafte  to  turf  itfelf. 

In  his  Lordfliip's  circuits  through  the  north 
of  Ireland  he  was,  upon  all  occalions,  atten- 
tive to  procure  information  relative  to  the 
linen  manufacture. 

It  has  been  his  general  obfervation,  that 
where  the  linen  manufacture  fpreads  the  tillage 
is  very  bad.  Thirty  years  ago  the  export  of 
linen  and  yarn  about  500,0001.  a  year;  now 
1,200,000!.  to  1,500,0001.  The  chief  baron 
has  taken  fome  pains  to  compare  the  linen  and 
woollen  manufactory  for  Ireland,  and  found 
from  the  clofeft  infpe&ion  that  the  people  em- 
ployed in  the  linen  earned  one-third  more 
than  thofe  in  the  woollen.  One  itone  of  wool 
is  the  produce  of  an  acre  of  grafs,  which  feeds 
two  and  an  half,  or  three  fheep.  Raw,  it  is 
equal  to  one-third  of  the  manufactured  value, 
and  at  10s.  is  only  il.  10s.  grofs  produce.  -An 
acre  of  flax  at  8cwt.  and  he  has  had  i2cwt. 

wrought 


152  C    U    L    L    E    N. 

wrought  into  the  worft  linens,  will  amount 
to  ten  times  the  value  of  the  acre  under  wool. 

Ref peeling  the  thieving  difpofition  of  the 
common  people,  which  I  had  heard  io  much 
of,  the  Chief  Baron  was  of  an  entire  different 
opinion — from  his  own  experience  he  judged 
them  to  be  remarkably  honeit.  In  working 
his  improvements,  he  has  lived  in  his  houie 
without  fhutters,  bolts  or  bars,  and  with  it 
half  full  of  fpalpeens,  yet  never  loft  the  leaft 
trifle — nor  has  he  met  with  any  depredations 
among  his  fences  or  plantations;. 

Railing  rents  he  confiders  as  one  of  the 
greafceft  caufes  of  the  improvement  of  Ireland; 
he  has  found  that  upon  his  own  efiates  it  has 
univerfally  quickened  their  induftry,  fet  them 
to  fearching  for  manures,  and  made  them  in 
every  refpecl  better  farmers.  But  this  holds 
only  to  a  certain  point ;  if  carried  too  far,  it 
deadens,  inftead  of  animating;;  induftry.  He 
has  always  preferred  his  old  tenants,  and  never 
let  a  farm  by  advertifement  to  receive  propo- 
fals.  That  the  fyftem  of  letting  farms  to  be 
re-let  to  lower  tenants,  was  going  out  very 
much  :  it  is  principally  upon  the  eftates  of  ab- 
fentees,  whofe  agents  think  only  of  the  moft 
rent  from  the  moft  folvent  tenant. 

In  converfation  upon  the  popery  laws,  I  ex- 
prefTed  my  furprife  at  their  feverity  :  he  faid 
J:hey  Were  fevere  in  the  letter,  but  were  never, 
executed.     It  is  rarely  or  never  (he  knew  no 

inftance) 


C     U    L    L    E    N.  153 

inftance)  that  a  proteitant  difcoverer  gets  a 
Jeafe  by  proving  the  lands  let  under  two-thirds 
of  their  value  to  a  papift.  There  are  fevere 
penalties  on  carrying  arms  or  reading  mafs ; 
but  the  firft  is  never  executed,  for  poaching 
(which  I  have  heard;,  and  as  to  the  other, 
mafs-houfes  are  to  be  feen  every  where :  there 
is  one  in  his  own  towrn.  His  Lordfhip  did 
jufticeto  the  merits  of  the  Roman  Catholics,  by 
obferving  that  they  were  in  general  a  very  fo- 
ber,  honeft,  and  induilrious  people.  This  ac- 
count of  the  laws  againft  them  brought  to  my 
mind  an  admirable  expreffion  of  Mr.  Burke's 
in  the  Englifh  houfe  of  commons,  Conni- 
vance IS  THE  RELAXATION  OF  SLAVERY, 
NOT   THE  DEFINITION   OF  LIBERTY. 

The  kingdom  more  improved  in  the  laft  20 
years  than  in  a  century  before.  The  great 
fpirit  began  in  174.9  and  1750. 

He  was  allured  that  the  emigrations,  which 
made  fo  much  noife  in  the  north  of  Ireland, 
were  principally  idle  people,  who,  far  from 
being  miffed,  left  the  country  the  better  by 
their  abfence.  They  were  generally  diffenters, 
yery  few  churchmen  or  catholics. 

It  is  found  in  that  manufacture,  that  it  never 
flourishes  when  oatmeal  is  cheap — the  greateft 
exports  of  linen  are  when  it  is  deareft 

July  2 1  ft,  took  my  leave  of  this  prince  of 
improvers,  who  gave  me  a  letter  to  Mr.  Forr- 

iter 


i54        DUNDALK. 

fter  of  Rofly  Park;  bent  my  courfe  thither, 
but  being  from  home,  went  on  to  Atherdee^ 
and  one  of  the  fineft  fheets  of  corn  I  ever  be- 
held is  from  the  hill  which  looks  down  on  that 
town.  It  is  a  glorious  profpec~t,  all  waving 
hills  of  wheat  as  far  as  the  eye  can  fee,  with 
the  town  of  Atherdee  in  a  wood  in  the 
vale. 

To  Dundalk,  the  view  down  on  this  town 
alfo  very  beautiful,  fwelling  hills  of  a  fine  ver- 
dure, with  many  rich  inclofures  backed  by  a 
bold  outline  of  mountain  that  is  remarkable. 
Laid  at  the  Clanbraffil  Arms,  and  found  it  a 
very  good  inn.  The  place,  like  moft  of  the 
Irifh  towns  I  have  been  in,  full  of  new  build- 
ings, with  every  mark  of  increafing  wealth 
and  profperity.  A  cambrick  manufacture  was 
eftablifhed  here  by  parliament,  but  failed ;  it 
was,  however,  the  origin  of  that  more  to  the 
north. 

July  22d,  left  Dundalk — Took  the  road 
through  Ravenfdale  to  Mr.  Fortefcue,  to 
whom  I  had  a  letter,  but  unfortunately  he 
was  in  the  fouth  of  Ireland.  Here  I  faw 
many  good  flone  and  flate  houfes,  and  fome 
bleach  greens;  and  I  was  much  pleafed  to  fee 
the  inclofures  creeping  high  up  the  fides  of 
the  mountains  ftoney  as  they  are.  Mr.  For- 
tefcue's  fituation  is  very  romantic  on  the  fide 
of  a  mountain,  with  fine  woods  hanging  on 
every  fide,  with  the  lawn  beautifully  fcatter- 
ed  with   trees  fpreading   into   them,    and   a 

pretty 


N    E    W    R    Y.  155 

pretty  river  winding  through  the  vale,  beau- 
tiful in  itfelf,  but  trebly  fo  on  information, 
that  before  he  fixed  there,  it  was  all  a  wild 
wafte.  Rents  in  Ravenfdaie  10s.  mountain 
land  as.  6d.  to  5s.  Alfo  large  tracls  rented 
by  villages,  the  cotters  dividing  it  among 
themfelves,  and  making  the  mountain  common 
for  their  cattle. 

Breakfafted  at  Newry,  the  Globe,  another 

s;ood  inn. This  town  appears  exceedingly 

§ourifhing,  and  is  very  well  built  ;  yet  40 
years  as;o,  I  was  told  there  were  nothing  but 
mud  cabbins  in  it:  this  great  rife  has  been 
much  owing  to  the  canal  to  Loch-Neagh.  I 
croiTed  it  twice — it  is  indeed  a  noble  work.  I 
was  amazed  to  fee  fhips  of  1  50  tons  and  more 
lying  in  it,  like  barges  in  an  Englifh  canal. 
Here  is  a  confiderable  trade. 

Take  the  road  to  Market-hill :  the  town 
parks  about  Newry  let  up  to  2I.  and  3I.  an 
acre,  which  is  here  Englifh  meafure.  They 
low  oats  chiefly  as  I  advanced,  with  a  little 
barley  —  no  fallows,  and  but  little  clover. 
Within  4  miles  of  Market-hill,  thecourfe: 

1.  Oats.  2.  Oats.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats.  5. 
Oats,  and  then  leave  it  to  the  rubbifh,  which 
comes  for  3  or  4  years :  fome  potatoes,  and 
after  it  flax.  I  am  now  got  into  the  linen 
country,  and  the  worft  hufbandry  I  have  met 
with  ;  my  Lord  Chief  Baron  is  right.  Rents 
los.  to   13s.  the  Englifh  acre  j  all  the  farms 

are 


156  N    E     W    R     Y, 

are  very  fmall,  let  to  weavers,  &c.  They 
meafure  by  the  boll  of  10  bufhels,  a  good  crop 
ot  oats  three  to  four  and  a  half. 

This  road  is  abominably  bad,  continually 
over  hills,  rough,  ftony,  and  cut  up.  It  is  a 
turnpike,  which  in  Ireland  is  a  fynonimous 
term  for  a  vile  road,  which  is  the  more  ex^ 
traordinary,  as  -the  bye  ones  are  the  fineft  in 
the  world.  It  is  the  effect  of  jobs  and  impo- 
sition which  difgrace  the  kingdom  j  the  pre- 
ferment roads  (hew  what  may  be  done,  and 
render  thefe  villainous  turnpikes  the  more 
difgufting. 

Called  at  Lord  Gosfort's,  to  whom  I  had 
been  introduced  by  Lord  Harcourt,  but  he 
was  not  yet  come  from  Dublin  •  his  fteward, 
however,  gave  me  the  few  following  particu- 
lars. About  Market-Hill  they  meafure  by  the 
Englifh  acre,  and  let  from  8s.  mountain  to  12s. 
and  1 4s.     The  courfes  are : 

1.  Oats.  2.  Oats.  3.  Oats,  4.  Oats.  5. 
Oats.  6.  Oats,  then  leave  it  to  itfelf  to  graze 
3  or  4  years,  this  on  good  ftrong  land ;  on 
worfe  3  or  4  of  oats,  and  3  or  4  of  grafs,  that 
is  weeds,  they  reckon-the  beft  management  to 
lime  it  on  the  fod,  then  3  crops  of  oats,  and  3 
years  left,  and  that  one  liming  will  laft  many 
years. 

Meafure  by  bolls,  each  10  bufhels ;  fow  6 
^ufliels  of  oats  to  an  acre  j  a  good  crop  is  60 

bufhels. 


N    E    W    R    Y.  157 

bufhels,  but  that  is  extraordinary,  4  or  5  bolls 
common ;  and  the  crops  will  hold  good  through 
the  whole  courfe,  the  firft  will  be  the  worft. 
Another  courfe : 

1.  Potatoes.     2.  Flax,   or  oats.     Alfo  after 
feveral   crops  of  oats,  plough  thrice  and  fow 
flax  feed,  2  bufhels  to  an  acre,  and  yield  12  to 
18  ftone  to  every  bufhel  of  feed.     Never  fow 
flax  twice  running.     Plant  16  to  18  bufhels  of 
potatoes  on  an  acre;  they  do  not  live  entirely 
on  them,  but  have  oatmeal,  oaten  bread,  and 
fometimes  flefh   meat,  once  or  twice  a  week. 
In  fpinning  a  woman  will  do   5  or  6  hanks  a 
week,  and  gets  30s.  for  it  by  hire,  as  wages 
for  half  a  year;  a  girl  of  12  years  old  three 
halfpence,  or  two-pence  a  day.     A  man  will 
earn,  by  weaving coarfe  linen  is.  2d.  and  is.  6d. 
by  fine  linen.     The  manufacturers  live  better 
than  the  labourers;  they  earn  3s.  6d.  a  week 
in  winter,  and  4s.  in  fummer.     Manufactur- 
ers have  all  from  6  to  1  5  acres  from  6s.  to  20s. 
an  acre,  and  the  houfe  into  the  bargain;  ge- 
nerally 2  or  3  cows,  and  a  bit  of  flax  enough 
for  half  a  bufhel  or  a  barrel  of  feed,  at  3  bufh- 
els to  an  acre.     The  country   labourers  have 
alfo  from  6  to   10  acres.     A   cabbin  without 
land  il.  is.  a  year.     Cloth  and  yarn  never  fo 
dear  as  at  prefent,  and  people  all  employed — 
none  idle.     A  cottage-building  5I.  ditto  ftone 
and  flate  Sol.     A  great  rife  of  both  labour  and 
provifions  ;  20  years  ago  beef  id.  and  1  ?d.  per 
lb.  and  labour  3d.  and  4d.  a  day. 

Religion 


isS  A    R    M    A    G    H. 

Religion  moftly  Roman,  but  fome  Prefby- 
terians  and  church  of  England. — Manufac- 
turers generally  Proteftants. 

The  manufacturers  wives  drink  tea  for 
breakfaft.  No  cattle  but  for  convenience 
among  the  fmall  farmers.  No  farms  above  ioo 
acres,  and  thofe  ftock  ones,  for  fattening  cows 
and  bullocks.  Very  few  fheep  in  the  country. 
Manures  are  lime,  of  which  so  to  60  barrels 
per  acre,  at  is.  6d.  will  laft  for  ever:  beft  for 
light  land — marie  grey  and  white,  beft  on  hea- 
thy ground.  Some  foapers  wafte  at  Armagh 
and  Newry,  but  not  much. 

Reached  Armagh  in  the  evening  •,  waited  on 
the  primate. 

July  23d,  his  Grace  rode  out  with  me  to  Ar- 
magh, and  {hewed  me  fome  of  the  noble  and 
fpirited  works  by  which  he  has  perfectly  chang- 
ed the  face  of  the  neighbourhood.  The  build- 
ings he  has  erected  in  7  years,  one  would  fup- 
pofe  without  previous  information,  to  be  the 
work  of  an  active  life.  A  lift  of  them  will 
juftify  this  obfervation. 

He  has  erected  a  very  elegant  palace,  90 
feet  by  60,  and  40  high,  in  which  an  unadorn- 
ed firnplicity  reigns.  It  is  light  and  pleafing, 
without  the  addition  of  wings  or  leffer  parts, 
which  too  frequently  wanting  a  fufficient  uni- 
formity with  the  body  of  the  edifice,  are  un- 
connected with  it  in  effect,  and  divide  the  at- 
tention. 


ARMAGH.  159 

tention.  Large  and  ample  offices  are  conve- 
niently placed  behind  a  plantation  at  a  fmall 
diitance  :  around  the  palace  is  a  large  lawn, 
which  fpreads  on  every  fide  over  the  hills,  and 
fkirted  by  young  plantations,  in  one  of  which 
is  a  terrace,  which  commands  a  moft  beautiful 
view  of  cultivated  hill  and  dale.  The  view 
from  the  palace  is  much  improved  by  the  bar- 
racks, the  fchool,  and  a  new  church  at  a  dis- 
tance, all  which  are  fo  placed  as  to  be  exceed- 
ingly ornamental  to  the  whole  country. 

The  barracks  were  ere&ed  under  his  Grace's 
directions,  and  form  a  large  and  handfome 
edifice.  The  fchool  is  a  building  of  confidera- 
ble  extent,  and  admirably  adapted  for  the  pur- 
pofe:  a  more  convenient  or  a  better  contrived 
one,  is  no  where  to  be  feen.  There  are  apart- 
ments for  a  matter,  a  fchool-room  56  feet  by 
28,  a  large  dining-room  andfpacious  airy  dor- 
mitories, with  every  other  neceffary,  and  a 
fpacious  pjay-ground  walled  in;  the  whole 
forming  a  handfome  front :  and  attention  be- 
ing paid  to  the  residence  of  the  matter  (the 
falary  is  400I.  a  year),  the  fchool  flourifhes, 
and  muft  prove  one  of  the  greateft  advantages 
to  the  country  of  any  thing  that  could  have 
been  eftablifhed.  This  edifice  entirely  at  the 
primate's  expenfe.  The  church  is  erecled  of 
white  ftone,  and  having  a  tall  fpire  makes  a 
very  agreeable  objed,  in  a  country  where 
churches  and  fpires  do  not  abound — at  leaft 
fuch  as  are  worth  looking  at.     Three  other 

churches 


160  ARMAGH. 

churches  the  primate  has  alio  built,  and  done 
confiderable  reparations  to  the  cathedral. 

He  has  been  the  means  alfo  of  erecting  a 
public  infirmary,  which  was  built  byfubferip- 
tion,  contributing  amply  to  it  himfelf. 

A  public  library  he  has  erected  at  his  own 
expenfe,  given  a  large  collection  of  books,  and 
endowed  it.  The  room  is  excellently  adapted, 
45  by  25,  and  20  high,  with  a  gallery,  and  a- 
partments  for  a  librarian. 

He  has  further  ornamented  the  city  with  a 
market-houfe  and  fhambles,  and  been  the  di- 
rect means,  by  giving  leafes  upon  that  condi- 
tion, of  almoft  new  building  the  whole  place. 
He  found  it  a  neft  of  mud  cabbins,  and  he  will 
leave  it  a  well  built  city  of  ftone  and  flate.  I 
heard  it  alTerted  in  common  converfation,  that 
his  Grace,  in  thefe  noble  undertakings,  had  not 
expended  lefs  than  30,0001.  betides  what  he 
had  been  the  means  of  doing,  though  not  di- 
rectly at  his  own  expenfe. 

When  it  is  confidered  that  all  this  has  been 
done  in  the  fhort  term  of  7  or  8  years,  I  fhould 
not  be  accufed  of  exaggeration,  if  I  faid  they 
were  noble  and  fpirited  works  undertaken  up- 
on a  man's  paternal  eftate,  how  much  more 
then  are  they  worthy  of  prai'e  when  execut- 
ed not  for  his  own  pofterity  but  for  the  public 
good  ?  Amidit  fuch  great  works  of  a  different 
nature,  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  his  Grace 

fhould 


ARMAGH.  161 

fhould  have  given  much  attention  to  agricul- 
ture ;  yet  has  he  not  neglected  it.  In  order 
to  improve  the  breed  of  cattle  in  the  country, 
he  brought  from  England  a  bull  and  feveral 
cows  of  the  true  Teefwater  breed,  of  a  vaft 
fize,  with  fhort  HoldernefTe  horns  j  they  give 
a  great  quantity  of  milk,  and  he  has  preferved 
the  breed  pure  and  to  their  fize,  by  feeding 
the  calves  with  much  attention:  they  have  a 
coniiderable  quantity  of  milk  given  tt;em  while 
at  grafs. 

In  the  hufbandry  of  the  neighbourhood  no 
other  corn  is  raifed  than  oats,  and  they  have 
a  notion  that  wheat  will  not  do  here  :  to  con- 
vince them  of  the  contrary,  the  primate  has 
fallowed  a  large  field,  manured  it  differently 
for  a  comparifon,  and  fowed  wheat.  The 
crop  I  viewed,  and  found  it  a  very  fine  and  a 
very  clean  one. 

In  order  that  I  might  be  well  informed 
about  the  linen  manufacture,  his  Grace  was 
fo  obliging  as  to  fend  for  one  of  the  moft  con- 
siderable merchants  in  the  city,  Mr.  Mac- 
geough,who  very  intelligently  gave  me  all  the 
particulars  I  wanted. 

The  following  circumftances  I  owe  to  his 
information.  About  Armagh  the  farms  are 
very  fmall-,  the  principal  people  occupy  from 
40  to  60  acres,  thefe  fow  fome  flax  as  well  as 
raife  corn,  but  in  general  they  are  from  5  to 
20  acres ;  the  only  object  the  linen  manufac- 

Vol.  I.  M  ture. 


i6i  A    R    M    A    G    H. 

ture.  This  is  the  cafe  all  the  way  to  Newry* 
alfo  to  Monaghan,  but  in  that  county  the 
farms  are  fomewhat  larger.  Towards  Lur- 
gan,  Dungannon,  and  Stewart' s-town,  much 
the  fame.  Rents  around  Armagh  are  from  7s. 
to  1 5s.  Much  mountain  let  in  grofs  by  town- 
lands  not  meafured  -,  average  10s.  The  whole 
county  much  lower.  To  Newry  10s.  To 
Dungannon  us.  To  Lurgan  10s.  The  ma- 
nufacturers, under-tenants  on  the  church- 
lands,  have  leafes  of  14  years;  on  other  lands 
3  lives,  which  make  a  vifible  difference  in 
culture.  A  manufacturer  who  has  10  acres 
will  keep  2  cows  and  a  horfe,  a  pig,  but  not 
much  poultry ;  he  will  fow  1 1  or  2  bolls  of 
oats  on  3  acres  —  a  bufhel,  or  1%  of  flax- feed 
on  a  rood  or  a  rood  and  a  half,  and  half  an 
acre  of  potatoes,  or  as  much  as  he  can  dung, 
His  courfe  is: 

r.  Potatoes.  2.  Flax.  3.  Oats,  and  let  it 
then  lay  for  pafture,  not  fowing  in  general  any 
graffes  — - fome  of  them  a  little  clover;  the 
benefit  of  which  is  very  great.  When  his  foil 
grows  up  and  marries,  he  univerfally  divides 
his  farm  with  him,  building  a  new  mud  cabbin  : 
thus  farms  are  conftantly  growing  lefs  and 
lefs.  This  is  found  very  hurtful,  by  reducing, 
them  fo  low  that  they  will  not  fupply  the 
people  with  neceffaries.  Scarce  any  of  them 
have  potatoes  and  oats  to  feed  their  families  > 
great  importations  from  Louth,  Meath,  Mo- 
naghan, Cavan,  and  Tyrone,  belides  what 
comes  occafionally  from  England  and  Scotland. 

Their 


ARMAGH.  163 

Their  food  principally  potatoes  arid  oatmeal, 
very  little  meat ;  the  better  fort,  however,  buy 
fome  beef  for  winter,  but  it  is  not  common. 
Many  of  them  live  very  poorly,  fometimes 
having  for  3  months  only  potatoes  and  fait 
and  water.  There  are  few  labouring  poor 
unconnected  with  the  manufacture,  but  when 
it  is  not  in  a  very  flourifhing  ftate,  they  live 
better  than  thofe  employed  by  linen.  No  flax 
farmers  j  fcarce  any  but  what  is  raifed  in 
patches  by  the  cotters.  Upon  light  or  moun- 
tain lands  they  prefer  the  American  flax- feed. 
Upon  heavy  or  clay  lands  they  fow  Riga 
Dutch,  or  Flanders  feed;  the  quantity  they 
get  is  more  and  better  in  quality  than  from  the 
American,  and  will  laft  20  years.  For  fine 
linens  they  never  fave  feed,  pulling  it  green : 
but  for  coarfe  linens  they  fave  as  much  as 
they  can. 

I  was  informed  that  the  produce  of  the  flax 
depended  on  the  oilinefs  of  it,  and  that  the 
goodnefs  of  the  linen  on  not  being  too  much 
bleached,  which  is  only  an  exhalation  of  the 
oil.  If  fo,  it  fhould  appear  that  perfecting 
the  feed  muft  injure  both  linen  and  flax  :  but 
Hill  the  contrary  is  the  opinion  here.  The 
quantity  of  feed  from  21  to  3  bufhels  per  acre : 
or  4  bufhels  of  their  own,  from  the  idea  that 
it  is  not  fo  well  faved. 

They  plough  their  potatoe-land  or  barley- 

ftubble  once  the  end  of  March  or  April,  and 

fow  it.     But  it  is   found  by  feveral  that  the 

M  2  beft 


1 64  A    R    M    A    G    H. 

beft  flax,  and  the  greateft  quantity,  is  by  Tow- 
ing their  pooreft  lands  that  have  been  ran  out 
by  oats,  upon  3  ploughings,  and  the  reafon 
they  do  it  not  more  is  for  want  of  ability  to 
give  the  3  ploughings.  They  weed  it  very 
carefully.  They  generally  pull  it  the  latter 
end  of  July  and  the  beginning  of  Auguft,  and 
immediately  ripple  it  to  get  the  feeds  off,  and 
then  lay  it  into  water  from  6  or  7  to  1 2  days, 
according  to  the  foftnefs  of  the  water,  trying 
it  before  they  take  it  out :  the  fofter  the  water 
the  fhorter  the  time,  generally  bogs  or  pools, 
the  bog  the  beft.  They  lay  it  fo  thick  as  to 
fill  the  pool.  When  they  take  it  out,  they 
fpread  it  on  meadow  ground  from  10  to  15 
days,  according  to  weather;  if  that  is  very 
bad,  much  of  it  is  loft.  Upon  taking  it  up, 
they  dry  by  laying  it  in  heaps  on  a  hurdle 
fixed  upon  pofts,  and  making  a  fire  of  turf 
under  it.  As  faft  as  it  dries,  they  beat  it  on 
ftones  with  a  beetle,  then  they  fcutch  it  to 
feparate  the  heart  or  the  Jhoves  from  the  reft. 
Mills  are  invented  for  this,  which  if  they  ufe, 
they  pay  is.  id.  a  ftone  for  it,  which  is  cheaper 
than  what  their  own  labour  amounts  to. 
They  next  fend  it  to  a  flax-hackler,  which  is 
a  fort  of  combing  it,  and  feparates  into  two 
or  three  forts  ;  here  generally  two,  tow  and 
flax.  In  this  ftate  it  is  faleable.  The  crop 
is  frdm  i3  to  48  ftones  per  acre  of  flax  rough 
after  fcutching.  The  medium  is  30  ftone, 
and  it  fells  from  6s.  8d.  to  9s.  Much  Dutch 
flax  is  imported,  alfo  from  Riga,  Koningfberg 
and  Petersburg,  which  generally  regulates  the 

price 


ARMAGH.  165 

price  of  their  own:  the  12  head  Peterfburg  is 
much  the  belt  of  the  common  fort,  1 2  head 
Narva  not  fo  good,  but  Marienburg  better 
than  Narva.  The  9  heads  to  a  bunch  coarfe. 
Dutch  blay  and  Dutch  white,  good  and  wirey; 
but  the  beftof  all  is  the  filver  blay  from  Brif- 
tol,  which  comes  down  the  Severn  :  it  is  fuller 
of  oil,  fofter  and  better  than  any  other  fort. 
The  average  price  of  their  own  2I.  8s.  to  2I. 
1 2s.  per  cwt.  or  7s.  to  7s.  6d.  a  ftone.  It  is  liked 
better  than  the  imported. 

Expenfe  of  an  acre  of  land  under  Jlax. 

£.    s.    eft 

Rent  [N.  3.  Their  ios.   an  acre,  abovemen- 

tioned,  includes  ditch,  &c]  -  O   14     O 

Seed  bought  frcm  ios.  to  13s.  a  bufhel.     Aver- 
age 12s.  3  bufhels  -  -  1    16     o 
One  ploughing               -                  -                 -070 
Carrying  off  the  clods  and  (tones  by  their  wives 

and  children,  6  women,  an  acre  a  day       -     o     2     2 
Weeding  10  women  an  acre  in  a  day,  4d,  034 

Pulling  by  women  and  children,  12  at  4<1.  -  040 
Rippling  by  men  and  women,  fay  4  men  at  iod.  034 
Laying  it  in  the  water  according  to  diftance,  fay  050 
Taking  it  out  and  iprending  -  -  -  o  5  ° 
Taking  up,  drying  and  beetling,  42  women  a 

day  at  4<Jf    .       .  .* 
Scutching  30  ftone  at  is.  id. 


30  ftone  at  4s.  2d. 


If 


1 66  A    R    M    A    G    H. 

If  let  to  a  man  who  fhould  farm  flax,  the  la- 
bour would  be  much  higher,  as  it  is  here  reck- 
oned only  at  the  earning,  which  they  could 
make  by  the  manufacture,  and  not  the  rate  at 
whichthey  work  for  others.  Kackling  is  is.  idk 
a  ftone. 

We  next  come  to  the  manufacture.  The 
ftone-rough  after  hackling  will  produce  81b. 
flax  for  coarfe  linen,  and  $i  lb.  of  tow.  The 
81b.  will  fpin  into  20  dozen  of  yarn,  or  20 
hanks  or  5  fpangles  fit  for  a  ten  hundred  cloth, 
which  is  the  common  fort  here  -9  and  the  earn- 
ings in  fpinning  will  be  from  5s.  to  6s.  8d.  the 
5  fpangles,  and  it  is  very  good  work  to  do  that 
in  20  days  by  one  woman  ;  in  common  25 
days,  consequently  they  earn  fomething  better 
than  3d.  a  day.  Seven  and  a  half  fpangles 
will  weave  into  a  piece  of  linen  (ten  hundred 
fort)  of  25  yards  long,  and  yard  wide.  Thus 
one  ftone  and  a  half  of  flax  at  7s.  a  flone, 
market-price,  will  make  that  piece.  But  the 
tow  remains  44  lb.  which  is  2s.  2d.  of  which 
they  make  a  coarfer  linen.  30  flone,  the  pro- 
duce of  an  acre,  make  therefore  20  fuch  pieces. 
The  price  of  this  cloth  is  from  ten-pence  half- 
penny to  eleven-pence  halfpenny  a  yard 
brown,  the  flate  in  which  they  fell  it.  Aver- 
age eleven-pence.  The  fixed  price  for  weav- 
ing it  is  two-pence  halfpenny  a  yard.  But 
this  is  when  the  poor  are  not  able  to  raife  it, 
and  work  for  hire  for  thofe  who  advance  them 
the  yarn.  A  great  deal  is  done  in  this  man- 
ner, as  well   as  by  thofe  who  raife  the  flax, 

and 


ARMAGH.  167 

and  go  through  the  whole  of  the  operation. 
When  the  weaver  has  made  his  piece  of  cloth, 
he  goes  into  the  market  of  Armagh,  which  is 
every  Tuefday,  and  fells  it  to  the  draper  as  he 
would  any  other  commodity,  always  receiving 
the  money  on  the  fpot,  as  there  is  no  credit. 
The  draper  names  the  price,  and  the  man 
takes  or  refufes  it.  There  are  many  drapers, 
fo  that  the  man  tries  whom  he  pleales :  there 
is  no  combination  againft  the  feller,  but  rather 
a  competition.  The  draper  generally  has  the 
bleach  greens  -,  and  the  expenfe  to  him  of 
bleaching  is  4I.  10s.  to  5I.  a  pack  of  30  pieces, 
or  3s.  to  3s.  2d.  a  piece.  Then  he  either  fends 
it  to  factors  in  London  or  Dublin,  or  fells  it  at 
the  linen-hall  in  Dublin.  Some  go  over  to 
Chefter  fair  themfelves,  and  difpofe  of  it  there. 
In  London  he  gives  7  months  credit:  in  Dub- 
lin 2  or  3  :  but  if  he  goes  himfelf  to  the  hall, 
he  gets  part  ready  money.  The  London  fac- 
tor has  6  per  cent,  for  felling  and  advancing 
the  money  as  foon  as  fold,  and  half  per  cent, 
for  warehoufe  room  and  infu ranee  from  fire. 
This  is  the  principal  part  of  the  trade  about 
Armagh. 

In  general  the  manufacture  was  at  the 
height  in  1770  and  1771.  In  1772  and  1773 
there  was  a  great  decline  both  in  price  and 
quantity.  In  1774  very  low,  till  May;  when 
a  fudden  rife  from  a  fpeculation  of  fending  to 
America,  and  for  the  demand  of  the  Spanifh 
flota,  which  was  detained  a  year  for  want  of 
coarfe  linens,  not  being  able  to  be  fupphed 

fj;oui 


i68  ARMAGH. 

from  Germany  as  ufual :  and  fince  May  1774, 
it  has  continued  very  flourifhing,  but  is  not 
yet  equal  to  what  it  was.  The  decline  in 
1772  and  1773,  owing  to  the  definition  of 
credit,  and  to  the  want  of  a  market,  but  let 
me  obferve  that  a  convulfion  in  credit  neceffa- 
rily  contracts  the  market.  Another  circum- 
fiance  was  the  price  of  bread  in  England, 
which  they  think,  was  fo  high,  that  the  Eng- 
lish could  not  afford  to  buy  much  of  thefe 
coarfe  linens,  of  which  they  are  the  great  con- 
fumers.  Germany  they  confider  as  the  great 
rival,  and  not  Scotland.  It  is  thought  that 
their  flax  is  well  cultivated,  and  admits  of  no 
great  improvement.  The  emigrations  were 
chiefly  in  1772  and  1773.  Many  weavers 
and  fpinners,  with  all  their  families,  went. 
Some  farmers,  who  fold  their  leafes,  went  off 
with  fums  from  iool.  to  300I.  and  carried  ma- 
ny with  them.  They  flopped  going  when  the 
war  broke  out.  In  1772  and  1773  many  turn- 
ed farming  labourers,  which  is  not  the  cafe 
when  the  trade  is  high. 

The  religion  generally  Roman,  fome  Pref- 
byterians:  Proteftants  emigrated  moll.  The 
oak  boys  and  fteel  boys  had  their  rife  in  the 
incrpafe  of  rents,  and  in  oppreflive  county 
cefies. 

July  24th,  took  my  leave  of  his  Grace,  and 

breakfafted  with  Maxwell  Clofe,  ECq-,  at , 

who  was  fo  kind  as  to.  mention  a  few  circum- 

fiances 


ARMAGH.  169 

fiances  in  addition,  and  fome   in  contradicti- 
on, to  what  I  had  learnt  at  Armagh. 

The   manufacture  at  its  greateft  height  at 
prefent  -,  the  price  greater,  and  the  quantity 
alfo.     The    emigrations    nothing  about    Ar- 
magh ;  but  Antrim,    and   Down  and  Deny, 
many,  chiefly  idle  fellows,  who  have  not  been 
the  leait.  miffed :  fome  went  with  money,  but 
the   fums    not  confiderable.     It  was  faid  that 
Lord  Donnegal's  high  rents  were  the  caufe, 
but  when  they  went  they  fold  their  leafes,  and 
got  20I.  30I.  or  40I.  for  many,  and  it  was  this 
money  chiefly  carried  them.     A  weaver  will 
earn  from  is.  to  is.  4d.  a  farming  labourer  8d. 

Co  urse  of  Crops. 
1.  Potatoes.  All  their  dung  for  them,  the 
produce  40  or  50  barrels-,  the  bell  forts  are 
the  London  lady,  French  white,  black  Spa- 
nifh.  2.  Bere.  3.  Flax,  the  produce  48  ftone, 
fcutched,  at  8s.     4.  Oats. 

Lime  ufed  much,  the  price  Tod.  to  is.6d.  a 
barrel.  Marie  under  the  bogs,  white  and 
light,  but  little  ufed.  Tythes,  oats  2s.  6d.  to 
3s.  6d.  Barley  5s.  Year's  purchafe  of  land 
fell  much  in  1772  and  1773.  There  are  ma- 
ny middle  men. 

The  oak  boys  began  at  Blewftone  upon  the 
county  cefs ;  but  in  a  moment  rofe  to  rents, 
tythes,  bogs,  and  every  thing  elfe :  idle  raf- 
cals  all  that  went  to  America. 

Mr. 


"17©  M    A    H    O    N. 

Mr.  Clofe  has  had  very  fine  turnips,  with 
which  he  fed  fat  wethers  from  autumn  for  the 
fpring  markets,  and  gained  thereby  i*d.  a  lb. 
difference  in  price. 

Took  a  ride  to  fee  the  neighbouring  country 
by  Killilean-hill,  Fellows-hall,  Woodpark- 
lodge,  Lifloony,  Tinan,  and Glaflough,  which 
indeed  is  a  round  that  fhews  the  country  to  ad- 
vantage ;  it  is  a  continued  picture  :  ftop  where 
you  pleafe,  you  are  in  the  midfr.  of  a  beauti- 
ful landfcape.  The  hills  are  waving  in  every 
variety  of  outline  that  can  be  imagined ;  there 
is  a  great  plenty  of  wood,  every  tree  of  which 
is  feen  to  advantage  from  the  inequality  of 
furface.  It  is  a  chearful,  beautiful  country, 
and  well  worth  a  traveller's  time  to  take  this 
ride,  in  order  to  fee  it.  Ireland,  notwith- 
,ftanding  her  general  nakednefs,  contains  fome 
fcenes  of  beauty  in  which  wood  bears  a  confrV 
derable  fhare. 

Called  in  our  ride  at  Mr.  Lefly's  at  Gaf- 
laugh,  viewed  fome  of  his  great  improvements : 
he  was  abfent,  but  Mrs.  Leily  was  fo  obliging 
as  to  walk  through  the  woods  with  us.  The 
lake  is  a  large  one,  containing  120  acres,  and 
the  wood  of  100  acres  fpreads  over  a  line  bold 
hill,  and  hangs  down  to  the  water  in  one 
deep  (hade,  the  effect  remarkably  beautiful : 
additional  plantations  are  made,  and  walks 
cut  through  the  whole.  In  the  evening  Mr. 
Lefly  came  to  Mr.  Clofe's,  and  I  then  had 
pleafure  of  learning  that  much  of  his  domain, 

from 


M    A    H    O    N.  171 

from  being  a  poor  wafte  trad  of  little  value, 
was  converted  to  what  I  had  feen,  that  is,  to 
very  fine  grafs  land.  The  foil  is  {tiff  cold 
clay,  the  fpontaneous  growth  rufhes,  &c. 
ploughed  moft  of  it  firft,  and  then  manured  it 
with  either  lime  or  marie:  of  lime  from  100 
to  120  barrels  per  acre,  at  7d.  a  barrel  on 
the  ground  from  Hone  and  turf  of  his  own. 
Then  took  a  crop  of  wheat,  which  proved 
very  fine  ;  after  the  wheat,  laid  it  down  with 
oats  and  hay- feed,  the  oats  very  good.  Sowed 
the  feeds  of  a  hay-loft  with  clover:  has  ufed 
much  compoft  made  of  ditch  fcowerings,  lime, 
marie,  &c.  and  fpread  it  in  the  fame  manner 
as  the  lime  j  fome,  after  the  land  was  laid  to 
grafs,  but  did  it  beft  on  the  fallow.  Much 
of  the  land  fo  wet,  that  hollow  drains  were 
necelTary,  and  made  fo  as  to  lay  the  lands  dry, 
the  cuts  very  numerous,  and  proved  effective. 
His  fences  are  excellent,  2  rows  of  quick,  and 
a  ditch  6  by  7,  a  dry  hedge  at  top,  and  the 
back  dreifed  and  planted  with  foreft  trees 
paled  in.  Mr.  Leily  has  found  the  bufinefs 
of  improvement  profitable,  fo  that  if  a  tenant 
had  the  money  necefTary,  he  would  find  it  to 
be  the  beft  work  he  could  engage  in  with  a 
view  to  profit  alone, 

July  25th,  returned  through  Armagh.  Paffed 
Sir  Capel  Molyneux's  domain,  which  fcems 
an  extenfive  and  very  fine  one.  Near  it  .1 
obferved  that  the  foil  was  one  of  the  fineft 
red  fandy  loams  I  have  any  where  feen,  and 
feveral  pieces  of  potatoes  were  planted  in  drills, 

which 


172  M    A    H    O    N. 

which  is  a  practice  I  had  not  yet  remarked. 
Dined  with  Mr.  Workman,  at  Mahon  ;  about 
that  place  the  fize  of  their  farms  are  from  10 
to  20  acres,  at  about  1  2s.  to  15s.  an  acre;  and 
fome  of  them  hiring  20  acres,  will  let  off  5 
or  6  at  1 8s.  to  20s.  an  acre.  They  are  in  ge- 
neral very  well  off  as  to  living  ;  their  food  is 
Jlir-about,  potatoes,  bread  of  mallin  or  wheat, 
and  fome  meat  once  a  fortnight.  They  are 
well  cloathed,  and  have  plenty  of  fuel ;  a  man 
with  20  acres  will  have  1 50  kifhes  of  turf  a 
year.  A  man  of  1 5  acres  will  have  between 
a  rood  and  half  an  acre  of  flax  -,  one  acre  of 
potatoes  5  2  to  4  acres  of  oats,  and  will  mow 
2  acres  ;  one  horfe,  2  or  3  cows,  one  young 
beaft,  and  a  pig,  but  not  much  poultry.  Pigs 
depend  on  potatoes. 

Their  courfe  :  1.  Potatoes.  2.  Flax.  3. 
Oats,  or  4.  Oats,  and  then  leave  it  to  grafs 
itfelf.  Scarce  any  fallow,  a  few  fow  clover, 
which  increafes,  to  mow  for  foiling  their  cows. 
The  weavers  univerfally  earn  much  more 
than  the  few  country  labourers  there  are. 
The  beft  flax  feed  for  clay  land  the  Dutch, 
and  for  light  land  the  American.  Scarce  any 
of  them  lave  their  own  feed,  confequently  no 
rippling;  it  muft  ftand  then  till  dead  ripe, 
which  they  think  leffens  the  quantity,  and 
makes  it  coarfer.  The  richer  the  land  the 
better.  Sow  generally  on  one  ploughing. 
They  weed  it  with  much  care.  In  watering, 
clay  water  reckoned  much  better  than  bogs, 
which  they  are  leaving  off.     In  general  they 

fcutch 


M    A    H    O    N.  173 

fcutch  it  tbemfelves,  and  it  is  cheaper  than 
the  mills.  Mr.  Workman  has  paid  is.  6d.  for 
it  bv  hand,  and  is.  id.  to  the  mills,  and  found 
the'former  cheaper;  more  flax  from  hand,  and 
much  cleaner.  Immediately  after  fcutching 
it  is  faleable  in  the  market.  Price  of  flax  6s. 
to  13s.  fcutched. 


Expenfes  per  acre. 

Rent        - 

I 

0 

13 

0 

Seed  24  bufhels,  at  10s. 

- 

1 

"> 

0 

One  ploughing  and  harrowing 

- 

0 

5 

0 

Weeding                   - 

0 

0 

10 

Pulling  by  women 

Laying  in  water             - 

0 

1 

0 

Taking  it  out  and  fpreading 

0 

0 

Taking  it  up,  drying,  and  beetling 

- 

0 

8 

0 

[Some  beetle  it  with  breaks,  which  is  to  the  full 
as  good  as  the  beetles,  and  is  done  for  a  third 
of  the  money.] 

Scutching  25  ftone,  at  is.  6d.        -        -        -      1   17     6 

Then  ready  for  market.  __. 

£■    4  13     4 

Hackling  -..«-_  150 


Value  before  hackling,  from  6s.  to  15s.    Ave- 
rage 8s.  -         -         -        -         -         100© 

The 


174  M    A    H    O    N. 

The  rough  ftone,  after  hackling,  will 
produce  81b.  flax  for  coarfe  linen ;  and  4lb.  of 
dreffed  tow,  and  fome  for  backens.  The  fpin- 
ners  earn  from  3d.  to  4d.  a  day.  The  weavers 
earn  iod.  to  is.  4d.  The  coarfe  cloths  and 
yarn  never  fo  high  as  at  prefent.  Weavers 
very  often  turn  labourers,  which  is  attributed 
to  fo  many  being,  contrary  to  law,  bound  ap- 
prentices for  2  years,  inftead  of  5,  by  which 
means  they  are  bad  hands,  and  can  only  do 
the  very  coarfeft  work.  As  to-  health,  from 
the  fedentary  life,  they  rarely  change  their 
profeffion  for  that.  They  take  exercife  of  a 
different  fort,  keeping  packs  of  hounds,  every 
man  one,  and  joining,  they  hunt  hares  :  a  pack 
of  hounds  is  never  heard,  but  all  the  weavers 
leave  their  looms,  and  away  they  go  after  them 
by  hundreds.  This  much  amazed  me,  but 
affured  it  was  very  common.  They  are  in 
general  apt  to  be  licentious  and  diforderly ; 
but  they  are  reckoned  to  be  rather  oppreffed 
by  the  county  cefTes  for  roads,  &c.  which  are 
not  of  general  ufe.  There  is  fome  wheat, 
and  about  Kilmore  a  good  deal ;  a  middling 
crop  5  barrels.  Oats  yield  here  6  barrels  on 
an  average.  Mr.  Workman,  9  years  ago,  in- 
troduced the  ufe  of  lime,  and  they  are  fince 
coming  faft  into  it :  the  effecl  is  very  great, 
though  the  foil  is  a  wet  loam  on  clay  without 
any  ftones.  No  draining.  They  are  in  ge- 
neral very  bad  farmers,  being  but  the  fecond 
attention,  and  it  has  a  bad  effecl  on  them, 
ftiffftning  their  fingers  and  hands,  fo  that  they 

do 


L    U    R    G    A    N.  175 

do  not  return  to  their  work  fo  well  as  they  left 
it 

In  the  evening  reached  Mr.  Brownlow's  at 
Lurgan,  to  whorn  I  am  indebted  for  fome  va- 
luable information.  This  gentleman  has  made 
very  great  improvements  in  his  domain:  he 
has  a  lake  at  the  bottom  of  a  flight  vale,  and 
around  are  three  walks,  at  a  diftance  from 
each  other;  the  centre  one  is  the  principal, 
and  extends  2  miles.  It  is  well  conducted  for 
leading  to  the  moft  agreeable  parts  of  the 
grounds,  and  for  commanding  views  of  Loch 
Neagh,  and  the  diftant  country ;  there  are  fe- 
veral  buildings,  a  temple,  green-houfe,  &c. 
The  moft  beautiful  fcene  is  from  a  bench  on  a 
.gently  fwelling  hill,  which  rifes  almoft  on 
every  fide  from  the  water.  The  wood,  the 
water,  and  the  green  dopes,  here  unite  to 
form  a  very  pleafing  landfcape.  Let  me  ob- 
ferve  one  thing  much  to  his  honour ;  he  ad- 
vances his  tenants  money  for  all  the  lime  they 
chufe,  and  takes  payment  in  8  years  with  rent. 

Upon  enquiring  concerning  the  emigrations, 
I  found  that  in  1772  and  1773,  they  were  at 
the  height ;  that  fome  went  from  this  neigh- 
bourhood with  property,  but  not  many.  They 
were  in  general  poor  and  unemployed.  They 
find  here,  that  when  provifions  are  very  cheap, 
the  poor  fpend  much  of  their  time  inwhiikey- 
houfes.  All  the  drapers  wifh  that  oatmeal 
was  never  under  id.  a  pound.  Though  farms 
are  exceedingly  divided,  yet  few  of  the  people 

raife 


i76  L    U    R    G    A    N. 

raife  oatmeal  enough  to  feed  themfelves ;  all 
go  to  market  for  fome,  The  weavers  earn  by 
coarfe  linens  is.  a  day,  by  fine  is.  4d.  and  it  is 
the  fame  with  the  fpinners,  the  finer  the  yarn 
the  more  they  earn ;  but  in  common  a  wo- 
man earns  about  3d.  For  coarfe  linens  they 
do  not  reckon  the  flax  hurt  by  Handing  for 
feed.  Their  own  flax  is  much  better  than  the 
imported. 

This  being  market  day  at  Lurgan,  Mr. 
Brownlow  walked  to  it  with  me,  that  I  might 
fee  the  way  in  which  the  linens  were  fold. 
The  cambricks  are  fold  early,  and  through  the 
whole  morning;  but  when  the  clock  ftrikes 
eleven,  the  drapers  jump  upon  {tone  {land- 
ings, and  the  weavers  inftantly  flock  about 
them  with  their  pieces :  the  bargains  are  not 
ftruck  at  a  word,  but  there  is  a  little  altercati- 
on whether  the  price  fhall  be  one-halfpenny  or 
a  penny  a  yard,  more  or  lefs,  which  appeared 
to  me  ufelefs.  The  drapers  clerk  flands  by 
him,  and  writes  his  matter's  name  on  the  pieces 
he  buys,  with  the  price;  and  giving  it  back 
to  the  feller,  he  goes  to  the  draper's  quarters, 
and  waits  his  coming.  At  twelve  it  ends  5  then 
there  is  an  hour  for  meafbring  the  pieces,  and 
paying  the  money,  for  nothing  but  ready  mo- 
ney is  taken;  and  this  is  the  way  the  bufinefs 
is  carried  on  at  all  the  markets.  Three  thou- 
fand  pieces  a  week  are  fold  here,  at  35s.  each 
on  an  average,  or  5,250!.  and  per  annum 
273,0001.  and  this  is  all  made  in  a  circumfer- 
ance  of  not  manv  miles. 

The 


WARRENSTOWN.    177 

The  town  parks  about  Lurgan  let  at  40s. 
an  acre,  but  the  country  in  general  at  14s. 
The  hufbandry  is  exceedingly  bad,  the  people 
minding  nothing  but  flax  and  potatoes. 

Leaving  Lurgan  I  went  to  Warrenftown, 
and  waiting  upon  Mr.  Waring  had  fome  con- 
verfation  with  him  upon  the  ftate  of  the  coun- 
try. He  was  of  opinion,  that  the  emigrati- 
ons had  not  thinned  the  population,  for  at 
prefent  they  are  crowded  with  people ;  but  he 
thinks  if  the  war  ends  in  favour  of  the  Ame- 
ricans, that  they  will  go  off  in  fhoals.  Very 
few  Roman  Catholics  emigrated.  The  rifing 
of  the  fteel  boys  was  owing,  as  they  faid,  to 
the  increafe  of  rents,  and  complaints  of  gene- 
ral oppreffion;  but  Mr.  Waring  remarked, 
that  the  pardons  which  were  granted  to  the 
oak  boys,  a  few  years  before,  were  principal- 
ly the  caufe  of  thofe  new  difturbances. 

Crofs  the  road  "to  Mr.  Clibborn's,  who  gave 
me  much  information  of  the  greateft  value 
concerning  the  linen  manufa&ure.  Firft,  in 
refped  to  the  flax :  the  following  is  the  ex- 
penfe  of  an  acre. 


Rent 

. 

£■   •■  * 

I       I      O 

Fourbufhels  of  feed  ios. 

- 

2      0O 

Two  days  work,  ploughing,  &c. 

- 

0  10  10 

Stoning,  one  woman,  4  days 

0      2      0 

Carried  over, 

£-  *  13  i* 

Vol'  L                            N 

Th£X 

i78       WARRfcNSTOWN. 

Brought  over         £•     3  13  *• 
Flax  fowri  on  a  lay  no  weeding  (the  other  12  days 

of  a  woman,  at  *d.) 
Pulling,  12  ditto  - 

Four  men  carrying  out  to  water,  and  2  days  of 

1  horfe  -  -  - 

Taking  out  and  fpreading,  1 6  women, 
Taking  up,  lifting,  4  women  a  day 
Beetling,  4  men  2  days  beetling,  and  4  women 

to  dry  it  -         -         ~ 

Twelve  kim  of  tuff  - 

Scutching         ------ 

Some  fold  then,  and  fome  not  till   hackled, 

which  for  40  ftone  the  acre,  is.  3d. 


I 

Value  after  fcutching',  7s.  6d.  a  (lone, 
Expenfes 

Profit        -        -        -      £.  1   16    3 
After  hackling  25.  6d. 

The  ftone  of  flax,  rough  after  hackling, 
will  produce  3?  or  3|lb.  of  flax  for  1800 
linen,  and  the  3I  will  fpin  into  60  hanks  fit 
for  an  1800  linen.  Spinners  are  generally 
hired  at  10s.  6d.  and  12s.  the  quarter,  befides 
board  and  lodging ;  and  for  that  they  fpin  4 
hanks  a  week  of  6  hank  yarn  for  1600  linen, 
and  3  a  week  of  8  and  9  hank  yarn  for  1700 
linen.  As  foon  as  the  yarn  is  fpun  it  is  boil- 
ed,    The  boiling  changes   it    1   hank  in   a 

pound  j 


0 

6 

9 

0 

6 

© 

0 

16 

0 

0 

3 

0 

0 

2 

0 

I 

O 

0 

0 

18 

0 

5 

Or 

• 

2 

10 

0 

14 

19 

K> 

15 

0 

O 

13 

3 

IO 

W  A  It  REN  S  TOWN.        179 

pound ;  6  hank  yarn  will  become  7.  If  flax 
is  given  out  to  be  fpun,  they  will  get  3d.  a 
hank  for  6  hank  yarn  for  fpinning  it,  and 
they  do  one  a  day.  The  linen  made  here  is 
from  8  hundred  to  245  of  coarfe  linen  10 
hundred,  the  common;  and  of  fine,  13,  14, 
and  15.     The  pieces  are  25  yards  long,  and 

yard  wide. 53  Hanks  for  a  web  of  1600, — 

63  for  1 800. 49  Hanks  will  make  a  piece 

(a  web)  of  1400,  which  fells  at  2od.  brown. 
The  weaver  is  paid  10s.  for  weaving  the  14 
hundred  web,  and  he  will  weave  it  in  9  days. 
For  cambricks  the  yarn  is  not  boiled,  and 
therefore  fo  much  finer ;  they  will  earn  more 
at  it  than  at  linen,  but  is  not  fo  faleable. 

Much  done  by  drapers  advancing  the  yarn, 
and  paying  for  the  weaving  at  fo  much  a  yard. 
For  8  hundred,  2id.  a  yard. — 10  ditto,  3id. — 
13  ditto,  3#d. — 16  ditto,  yd. — 18  ditto,  io|d. 
— 24  ditto,  i£.  7*d. — The  finer  the  linen  the 
more  they  earn,  In  fine  linen,  going  from  it 
to  the  plough  or  fpade,  &c.  hurts  their  hands 
fo  much,  that  they  do  not  recover  it  for  a 
week  j  but  not  common  for  them  to  do  it. 

1  Stone,  3ilb. — 60  hanks— 15   weeks— 1 
woman.     2  Stone  30.     3  Stone  45.     £  Stone 

7f.     3*  Stone  52. Weaving  63  hanks  into 

a  web  of  1 800,  he  has  20s.  for  it,  and  does  it 
in  1 2  days  j  but  all  preparations,  drefling,  &c. 
included,  it  will  be  three  weeks,  at  which  rate 
he  can  work  for  a  year. 

N  %  The 


iSo       WARRENSTOWN. 

The  prices  of  the  cloth  are  : 


Market  Low. 

Market  High. 

8  hundred 

8*d. 

Hid. 

10  ditto 

IS. 

IS.    2id. 

12  ditto 

is.  2d. 

is.  4id. 

15  ditto 

is.  7d. 

is.  9d. 

17  ditto 

28.  4*d. 

2s.  6d. 

20  ditto 

3s.  iod. 

3s.  iod. 

24  ditto 

7s-   . 

7s. 

Bleach  greens  fometimes  belonging  to  the 
drapers,  fometimes  not.  In  bleaching  it  is 
fteeped  in  cold  river  water,  or  fometimes  not 
at  all ;  then  to  the  wafh-mills  for  wafhing  j 
then  boiled  in  barilla  afhes,  (or  America  or 
RufTia  pot-afh)  imported  from  Alicant  to  Newry 
or  Belfaft ;  the  quantity  of  the  barilla  uncer- 
tain, about  half  a  bufhel  to  ico  pieces.  Boil- 
in?  6  hours.  Wafhed  thoroughly  after  this 
mid  fpread  on  grafs  for  4  days  j  lift  it  and  boil 
it  again  as  before-,  then  to  the  grafs  again, 
and  repeated  till  nearly  white  for  rubbing. 
Next  put  it  into  a  fcald  of  foap,  and  from 
thence  into  the  rub  boards ;  if  coarfe  cloth 
fcne  rub  fufRcient,  but  for  fine  three  or  four. 
After  rubbing,  wafhed,  and  put  to  fower  in 
vitriol  and  water,  24  hours  will  do,  but  1© 
days  no  injury ;  fine  cjoth  3  ferves,  one  after 
fcvery  rub,  but  for  coarfe  one  rub  is  fuflicient. 
This  fowering  merely  for  cleanfing  and  pur- 
ging.   After  lowering  it  has  a  fcald  of  foap, 

from 


WARRENSTOWN.        tfi 

from  which  well  wafhed,  wrung,  and  made 
ready  for  ftarch  and  blue  •,  then  dried  and 
beetled,  which  is  done  by  a  mill,  after  which 
done  up  with  a  fere  wing  machine  for  fale. 
The  expenfe  of  bleaching  3s.  a  piece,  for 
coarfe  4s.  middling  5s.  fine  6s.  Thefe  the 
particulars  commonly  known  among  bleachers ; 
there  are  fecrets  in  the  trade  which  they  of 
courfe  do  not  communicate,  but  not  fo  many 
I  apprehend  as  generally  fuppofed;  for  where 
there  are  few,  or  even  none,  but  with  an  ap- 
pearance of  them,  all  is  fuppofed  by  the  vul- 
gar to  be  myftery.  Upon  the  above  account 
1  have  only  to  remark,  that  the  rubbing  ap- 
pears to  me  an  operation  for  giving  the  cloth 
beauty  at  the  expenfe  of  ftrength.  It  is  a 
moft  fevere  operation,  being  drawn  between 
boards  full  of  teeth,  which  are  made  for  the 
profeiTed  purpofe  of  adding  to  the  fridion ; 
and  the  effect  is  fuch,  that  large  quantities  of 
knap  are  conftantly  taken  out  of  the  machine. 
This  is  a  very  fine  invention  for  wearing  out 
a  manufacture  as  foon  as  made. 

Mr.  Clibborn  was  ready  enough  to  confefs 
that  this  work  is  carried  too  far,  but  the  Lon- 
don drapers,  he  fays,  demand  thick  cloths, 
and  this  operation  contracting  the  breadth  of 
the  piece  gives  it  a  thick  appearance,  which 
they  are  fond  of.  The  beetling  does  not  ap- 
pear to  me  to  be  near  fo  fevere  an  operation. 
It  is  a  continued  fylTem  of  perpendicular 
ftrokes  upon  the  cloth  wound  round  a  cylinder, 
for  the  purpofe  of  fmoothing  it,  and  giving  it 

a  elofs. 


182       WARRENSTOWN. 

a  glofs.     It  is  fold  at  Dublin  •,  half  the  manu- 
facture to  London   from  Newry,  Belfaft,  or 
Dublin.     Cambrick  all  fold  in  Dublin:  it  en- 
creafes  much.    In  1771  more  goods  made  than 
at  prefent.     England  the  great  comfumption 
of  Irifh  linens.     Scotland  nor  Germany  inter- 
fere with  thofe  above  defcribed.     No  rivals  in 
the  Irifh  7-8ths  and  3-4-ths  yard  wide,  but  in 
the  dowlas  and  diaper  the  Germans;  and  in 
fheeting  the  Ruffians.     The  dowlas  and  {heat- 
ing are  made  in  King's  and  Queen's  County, 
and  Weftmeath.     Diapers  here,  in  which  the 
fame  yarn  as  above,  the  breadths  various,  and 
the  weavers  make  more  by  it  than  by  linen. 
The  trade   as  brifk   at   prefent   as  the   reft. 
Hands  are  plentiful  for  the  demand,  notwith- 
ftanding  the  emigrations  ;    but  the  men  do 
not  work  more  than  half  what  they  might  do, 
owing  to  the  cheapnefs  of  provifions  making 
them'idle,  as  they  think  of  nothing  more  than 
the  prefent  neceffity.     A  general  remark  of 
all  who  know  the  trade,  that  when  provifions 
are  dear  the   more  goods  come   to  market ; 
what  they  raife  themfelves  not  half  feeding 
them.     A  child  7  years  old  earns   id.  a  day 
fpinning.     There  are   as  many   employed  in, 
diaper   as   in    cambricks.      Manufacture   not 
doubled  in  15  years,  about  i-third  or  i-fourth 
increafe  in  that  time.     The  prefent  high  price 
of  linens  and  yarn  attributed  to  the  increafed 
demand  at  Manchefter  for  yarn  :  it  is  now  od. 
a  hank.     Alfo  to  the  Spanifh  market  for  linen 
being  almoft  a  new  trade.     Likewife   to  fo- 
reign linens  coming  dearer  to  market  than  for 

merly, 


WARRENSTOWN.        183 

merly.  The  weavers  and  fpinners  gene- 
rally live  upon  oatmeal  and  potatoes,  and  milk, 
with  meat  once  a  week,  and  have  their  belly 
full. 

A  farm  6  acres: — if  Hay.     1.  Rood  flax. 

1.  Acre  potatoes.  1.  Oats.  2.  Cows.  1. 
Horfe,     2.  Sheep.     Rent,  jl.  12s. 

1.  Potatoes  ufually  160  bufhels  to  the  acre. 

2.  Flax.     3.  Oats.     4.  Left  2  years. 

1.  Plough  3  or  4  times  for  flax.     2.  Wheat, 
or  barley.     3.  Oats.     4.  Oats.     5.  Left. 

Very  few  fave  their  feed;  but  this  more 
than  ufual,  owing  to  the  import  from  Ame- 
rica falling  off.  Much  damaged  by  flanding 
for  feed  from  firing,  and  a  great  chance  run 
of  lofing  the  crop ;  hut  if  the  weather  good 
not  the  worfe  for  coarfe  linen,  but  will  not 
do  at  all  for  fine.  Clay  land  does  beft  for  it. 
They  ufe  much  lime,  140  barrels  per  acre,  at 
is.  id.  at  kiln,  and  6d.  more  carriage ;  they 
lay  it  on  for  wheat  and  barley.  It  is  reckoned 
to  pay  fo  well,  that  all  ufe  it  who  are  able. 

Kent  of  a  cabbin  and  garden       *       £.  I   10    o 
Grafs  for  a  cow  •*  -  I   10    o 

Hay  for  ditto  -  -        -        1  1  o    o 


4  10    o 

Many 


184        HILLSBOROUGH. 

Many  weavers  families  have  tea  for  break- 
fail.  Rents  rather  lower  than  4  or  5  years 
ago. 

Leaving  Warrenftown,  reached  Hillfbo- 
fough  that  night;  patTed  thro'  Dromore,  a 
lniferable  neit  of  dirty  mnd  cabbins.  Lord 
Hillfborough  has  marked  the  approach  to  his 
town  by  many  fmall  plantations  on  the  tops 
t>f  the  hills,  through  which  the  road  leads. 
The  inn  of  his  building  is  a  noble  one  for 
Ireland. 

July  27th,  walked  to  the  church  built  at 
the  expenfe  of  Lord  Hillfborough ;  there  are 
few  fuch  in  Ireland.  It  is  a  very  handfbmc 
Hone  edifice,  properly  ornamented,  and  has 
a  lofty  fpire,  which  is  a  fine  object,  to  the 
whole  country.  The  form  of  the  church  is  a 
erofs,  the  body  of  it  160  feet  long,  and  the 
crofs-ifle  120.  The  ftep  to  the  communion 
table  is  of  one  ftone  out  of  his  lordihip's 
quarry,  21  feet  long,  and  2  broad.  To  the 
improvements  —  the  lake,  woods,  and  lawn 
are  pretty  j  but  a  well  built  and  flouriiriing 
town  in  the  hands  of  an  abfentee,  whofe  great 
aim  is  to  improve  and  adorn  it,  does  him  morq 
credit  than  twenty  domains. 

Reached  Lif^urn,  and  waited  on  the  bifhop 
of  Downe,  who  was  fo  obliging  as  to  fend 
for  an  intelligent  linen-draper,  to  give  me 
fuch  particulars  as  I  wanted  of  the  manufac- 
ture in  that  neighbourhood.     About  this  place 


L   I   S   B   U   R   N.  18; 

chiefly  fine  cloth,  from  14  to  21  hundred. 
The  fpinners  are  generally  hired  by  the  quar- 
ter, from  10s.  to  12s.  lodging  and  board,  and 
engaged  to  fpin  5  hanks  of  8  hank  yarn  in  a 
Week. 

To  the  14  hund.  linen  46  hanks 18 

ditto  58  hanks 28  ditto  66  hanks. 

In  weaving  it  is  common  for  one  man  to  have 
feveral  looms,  at  which  journeymen  weavers 
work,  who  are  paid  their  lodging  and  board, 
and  one-third  of  what  they  earn,  which  may 
tome  to  2s.  a  week  on  an  average. 

The  drapers  advance  the  yarn,  and  pay 
for  the  weaving  by  the  yard,  For  a 

15  hund.  4d. 18  ditto  o,d.    ■■ 

21  ditto  is.  lid. 

For  18  hund.  linen,  a  woman  fpins  6  hanks 
a  week,  which  6  hanks  weigh  about  a  pound, 
at  the  price  of  8d.  a  hank.  The  manufacture 
carried  on  in  the  country  very  much  by  little 
farmers,  who  have  from  5  to  10  acres,  and 
univerfally  it  is  found,  that  going  to  the 
plough  or  fpade  for  a  day  or  two  fpoils  them 
for  their  weaving  as  many  more.  Think  that 
flax  that  has  flood  till  feed  is  ripe,  will  not 
do  for  more  than  a  1600  web.  Rent  for  lowing 
flax  on  potatoe  Lnd  4d.  a  perch  long  of  21 
feet  and  10  broad.  The  crop  at  a  medium  10 
irone  from  a  bufhel  of  feed.  The  ftone  16IK 
A  ftone  of  good  flax,  rough,  will  produce  81b. 

after 


:S6  L   I   S   B   U  R   N. 

after  hackling,  and  fpin  into  it  as  many  hanks 
per  lb.  as  the  fort  is,  that  is,  6  hanks  of  6 
hank-yarn,  7  of  7.  The  weavers,  fpinners, 
&c.  live  in  general  on  potatoes  and  milk,  and 
oat-bread,  and  fome  of  them  meat  once  a 
week. — Will  work  only  for  fupport ;  meal  and 
cloth  never  cheap  together,  for  when  meal 
is  cheap,  they  will  not  work.  Rent  of  land 
from  1  os.  to  22s. 

Leaving  Lifburn,  took  the  road  to  Belfaft, 
repeating  my  enquiries  ;  in  a  few  miles  I 
found  the  average  rent  16s.  per  Cunningham 
acre.  Much  flax  fown,  three  bufhels  and  a 
half  of  feed  generally  fown  to  an  acre.  Eight 
ftone  of  flax,  from  half  a  bufhel  of  feed,  is 
reckoned  a  very  good  crop.  If  they  have  not 
land  of  their  own  for  fowing,  they  pay  12s. 
rent  for  what  half  a  bufhel  requires  :  this  is 
4I.  4s.  per  acre,  but  it  includes  ploughing, 
harrowing,  and  getting  ready  for  the  feed. 

Rent,  &:c.  -  *  -  4     4     O 

Weeding  -  -  -  ©     $     o 

Polling  1 2  women,  at  8  J.  a  day  -  ■ .  *  080 

Watering,  damming,  and  (lones,  6  men  a  day 

at  yd  -  -  -  046 

Taking  and  grafting,  6  women  a  day  -  040 

Taking,  lifting  and  drying,  generally  in  the  fun, 

6  women  1  day  -  -  -  04° 

None  rippled. 

Scutching  at  miHs,  is,  <jd.  a  ftone,  56  ftone  3  14     8 

1-942 

Produce. 


L    I    S    B    U    R    N. 

Produce. 

56  ftone,  at  9s.  4c!. 
Expenies         - 

187 

26    2    8 

9    4    2 

Profit £. 

16  18     6 

Hackling  is  is.  2d.  a  ftone,  and  half  the  weight 
is  loft ;  the  produce  will  be  41b.  flax  and  4lb. 
tow,  which  the  Scotch  generally  buy  at  3d. 
a  lb.  To  a  ftone  hackled  there  are  96  hanks  ; 
and  to  the  web  of  cloth  there  are  2$  hanks  for 
the  weft,  and  30  for  the  warp.  A  weaver  is 
three  weeks  doing  it,  and  is  paid  17s.  From 
Lifburn  to  Belfaft,  on  the  river  Leggon,  there 
are  12  or  13  bleach  greens.-  The  counties  of 
Down  and  Antrim  are  computed  fo  make  to 
the  amount  of  8oo,oool.  a  year,  and  near  one- 
third  of  it  in  this  vale. 

Pafled  Lord  Dungannon's  at  Bever,  whofe 
plantations  are  got  up  to  a  fine  {hade  by  means 
of  planting  very  thick;  went  to  Caftle-hill, 
Mr.  Townley  Blackwqod's.  Rents  there  are 
15s.  an  acre,  Cunningham-meafure.  Aver- 
rage  of  the  county  of  Down  10s.  Sowing 
clover  with  flax  is  practiced  here,  coming  in 
much,  and  found  to  be  very  beneficial. 

In  the  evening  to  Belfaft.  I  had  letters  to 
Mr.  Portis  and  Mr.  Holmes;  but  upon  calling 
at  their  houfes,  found  the  firft  in  England  and 
the  other  in  the  country:  fo  considerable  a 
place  as  Belfaft  demanded  a  better  account 
than  I  could  give  without  auiftance.  At  din- 
ner 


i88    NEWTOWN    STEWART. 

ner  at  Mr.  Blackwood's,  a  Doctor  Haliday  was 
mentioned  as  a  gentleman  of  general  know- 
ledge, and  at  the  fame  time  of  a  liberal  dif- 
pofition  :  it  was  the  only  name  I  knew  at  Bel- 
faft  after  my  two  letters  proved  ufelefs.  I  de- 
termined to  make  known  to  this  Doctor  Hali- 
day my  wants,  and  beg  his  affiftance  in  grati- 
fying them,  and  accordingly  wrote  a  note  and 
fent  it.  He  alfo  in  the  country.  Still  I  was 
unwilling  to  give  up  all  thoughts  of  Belfaft ; 
and  as  I  had  planned  going  to  Strangford,  and 
from  thence  toLifburn  in  my  way  north,  I  de- 
termined upon  returning  again  to  Belfait,  in 
order  for  a  farther  chance  of  meeting  with 
fomebody  that  could  anfwer  me  a  few  quefti- 
ons  about  the  progrefs  of  the  commerce  of  the 
place. 

July  28th,  took  the  road  to  Portaferry,  by 
Newtown,  wherelbreakfafted;  it  is  an  improv- 
ing place,  belonging  to  Mr.  Stewart,  who  has 
built  a  very  handfome  market-houfe,  and  laid 
out  a  fquare around  it,4which  he  dellgns  build- 
ing. I  was  informed  here  that  the  linen  ma- 
nufacture is  much  lefsconfiderablethan  it  was. 
Since  the  decline  of  1772  and  1773,  many 
weavers  they  told  me  had  turned  labourers, 
but  the  fpinning  bufinefs  continues  as  much 
as  ever. 

Leaving  the  town,  the  road  leads  at  once  to 
the  more  of  Strangford  Loch,  where  I  ob^ 
ferved  heaps  of  white  fhells,  and  upon  enqui- 
ry found  that  they  dig  them  at  low  water  in 

th* 


NEWTOWN    STEWART.    189 

the  Loch  in  any  quantities :  they  lay  them  on 
their  lands,  but  do  not  find  that  they  laft  fo 
long  as  lime.  Farms  rife  to  40  acres;  rents 
15s.  to  21s.  Cunningham-meafure.  Wheat 
yields  to  30  bufhels ;  oats  to  40. 

As  I  advanced,  making  farther  enquiries, 
ftill  I  was  told  that  the  weaving,  at  prefent, 
was  not  near  fo  good  as  feven  years  ago.  Flax, 
in  fome  parifhes,  pays  no  tythe;  in  others,  it 
is  taken  in  kind.  <  Two  bufhels  of  potatoes, 
on  a  ridge  feven  yards  long  and  two  wide,  is  a 
very  s;ood  crop.  Rents  from  10s.  to  21s.  A 
common  courfe. 

1.  Oats  on  lay.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats.  4. 
Barley.  5.  Oats.  6.  Barley.  7.  Oats.  8. 
Left  for  lay,  a  few  fow  clover  or  rye-grafs  for 
two  years. 

Pafs  Newtown  Stewart,  a  row  of  neat  ftonc 
and  flite  cabbins,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
fome  new  plantations  which  furround  an  im- 
proved lawn,  where  Mr.  Stewart  intends  build- 
ing. The  foil  is  in  general  light,  dry,  fandy 
or  gravelly.  Sea-wrack  is  collected  for  burn- 
ing into  kelp  all  along  the  coaft  of  the  Loch. 
There  are  many  lime-kilns  all  the  way  to  Por- 
taferry-,  I  was  told  35,  and  that  15  years  ago 
there  was  only  one,  fo  much  is  the  improve- 
ment of  land  increafing.  The  ftone  is  brought 
by  fea  from  Carlingford,  and  burnt  with  coals 
and  turf.  The  expenfe  reckoned  is.  id.  a 
barrel.     It  lafts  ten  years.     Shells  are  fome 

time 


i9o  PORT  A  FERRY. 

time  before  they  work,  but  they  laft  longer 
than  lime,  directly  contrary  to  what  I  was  told 
before,  from  whence  one  may  fuppofe  the 
point  difputable.  Rents  16s.  to  20s.  Re- 
marked feveral  great  rocks  on  the  fhore,  which 
feem  to  have  no  connection  with  the  coalt, 
which  is  not  rocky,  nor  at  all  in  unifon  with 
fuch  fragments. 

Reached  Portaferry,  the  town  and  feat  of 
Patrick  Savage,  Efq;  who  took  every  means  of 
procuring  me  information  concerning  that 
neighbourhood. 

July  29th,  collected  fome  concerning  the 
fifheries.  It  is  a  fummer  herring-fiihery  for 
the  home  confumption  of  the  country  ;  they 
are  now  taken  chiefly  off  the  peninfula  of 
Ards.  Formerly  the  great  take  was  in  the 
Loch,  till  within  thefe  4 years.  To  the  whole 
coaft  they  reckon  that  there  are  400  boats ; 
they  are  of  4  or  5  ton  burthen,  and  coft  1 5I. 
a  boat,  the  nets  coft  iol.  and  there  are  4  to 
each  b©at.  A  boat  will  catch  6  maze  of  her- 
rings in  a  night,  each  500 ;  and  they  fell  at 
8s.  8d.  a  maze  on  an  average  :  it  is,  however, 
a  precarious  flfhery.  Ini774itwas  very  good: 
in  1775  very  bad  ;  this  year  it  has  begun  fine- 
ly. It  begins  the  12th  of  July,  and  finifhes 
the  end  of  September.  It  is  in  general  carri- 
ed on  by  fhares ;  the  boat  and  nets  have  one 
half,  and  the  4  men  the  other  half.  They 
earn,  upon  an  average,  il,  is.  each  a  week  by 
it :  1 10  boats  belong  to  Portaferry.  .  The  men 

are 


ARDS.  191 

are  chiefly  from  the  country;  the  whole  baro- 
ny of  Ards  are  fifhermen,  failors,  and  farmers, 
by  turns.  This  little  port  has  a  tolerable  {hare 
of  trade:  they  have  12  lhips,  which  go  an- 
nually to  Loch  Swilly  herring-fifhery,  which 
is  a  winter  one  on  the  bounty  of  20s.  a  ton  -, 
they  have  15  fhips  belonging  to  the  place3 
from  30  to  1  50  tons,  at  6  men  each,  and  ma- 
ny others  trade  here.  Coals  are  brought  from 
Whitehaven ;  and  from  Gottenburgh  and 
Norway  timber  and  iron.  Trade  increafes, 
and  the  place  is  much  more  flourishing  than  it 
was. 

Rode  in  the  evening  to  Millen  Hill  on  the 
coaft  of  Ards,  to  fee  the  herring  fleet  go  out. 
It  is  in  the  town-land  of  Tara,  and  is  an  ex- 
cellent fpot  for  a  light-houfe,  which  is  much 
wanted  on  this  coaft,  for  it  is  exceedingly  rocky 
and  dangerous  from  St.  John's  point  to  Do- 
naghadee,  fo  that  no  winter  panes  without 
fhipwrecks,  and  in  fome  there  are  a  dozen. 
Under  the  hill  appeared  the  north  and  fouth 
rock,  with  foul  ground  all  around.  A  light- 
houfe  might  be  built  here  for  60I.  and  the 
annual  expenfe  would  not  exceed  1 50I. 

The  barony  of  Ards  is  in  general  a  wet, 
ftrong,  or  clay  foil,  with  a  good  deal  of  bog; 
lets  on  an  average  at  10s.  6d.  an  acre,  the 
whole  county  10s.  the  fize  of  the  farms  on  a 
medium  about  40  acres,  a  few  up  to  100,  and 
many  down  to  5  in  weavers  hands.  Courfe 
of  crops. 

X.  Potatoes 


192  A      R      D      S. 

i.  Potatoes  dnnged  for.  2.  Wheat,  yield* 
from  28  to  40  bufhels,  but  reckon  it  by  cwts. 
3.  Barley.  4.  Oats.  5.  Clover  for  3  years, 
or  clover  and  hay-feeds  in  cafe  defigned  to  lay 
longer,  6,  7,  and  8.  Oats.     Alfo, 

I.  Potatoes.     2.  Flax.     3.  Corn,  &c. 

A  great  deal  of  lime  ufed  from  Carlingford; 
the  ftone  is  brought  and  burnt  with  Milford 
or  Scotch  culm,  and  cofts  them,  when  burnt, 
about  1  id.  a  barrel.  It  has  been  found  very 
beneficial,  has  been  ufed  about  10  or  12 
years :  it  does  beft  on  middling  land  neither 
very  dry  nor  wet.  Sea-fand  is  much  ufed  for 
ftrong  clay,  and  brings  the  fineft  crops  that 
can  be.  White  marie  from  under  the  bogs 
they  prefer  to  lime;  it  improves  land  fo  much 
that  it  will  never  be  as  bad  again.  Wherever 
thev  can  get  fhell  fand,  they  do,  and  find  the 
benefit  very  great :  fea-weed  they  alfo  ufe  for 
their  barley  lands  what  they  get  in  winter, 
but  in  fummer  they  dry  and  burn  it  into 
kelp.  Cattle  very  trifling,  only  fmall  flocks 
for  convenience.  The  principal  religion  is 
prefbyterian. 

If  a  weaver  has,  as  moft  have,  a  crop  of 
flax,  the  wife  and  daughter  fpin  it  and  he 
weaves  it :  if  he  is  not  a  weaver,  but  em- 
ployed by  his  farm,  they  carry  the  yarn  to 
market.  The  diet  of  the  poor  is  oaten  bread, 
potatoes,  milk,  herrings,  &c.  The  little  far- 
mers generally  have   meat  once  a  week  in 

fummer, 


A      R      D      S.  193 

fummer,  and  falted  for  winter.  All  keep 
cows,  pay  for  fummer  grazing  il.  7s.  and  buy- 
hay  for  the  winter  to  the  value  of  il.  10s. 
They  all  keep  pigs,  not  much  poultry.  Their 
fuel  both  turf  and  coals j  coals  13s.  a  ton. 
Car,  horfe,  and  driver,  a  day,  is.  4d.  A  new 
car  40s.  to  3I.  A  plough  10s.  6d.  A  har- 
row 1  5s. 

A  weaver,  who  generally  fows  what  they 
call  half  a  peck  of  flax-feed,  which  is  a  com- 
mon peck,  gave  me  the  following  account  of 
the  expenfe. 

Seed  3  bufhels  to  1 5  acre,  Cunningham-meafure 

Ploughing  - 

Weeding  -  -  - 

Pulling  1 1  woman,  at  8d. 

Rippling  1  man,  2  days,  at  iod. 

Watering  1  man,  half  a  day 

Car  and  horfe  -  -  - 

Taking  out  \k  man,  a  day,  and  1  woman  ditto 

Beetling  1  man,  2  days 

Carrying  to  fcutch  mill  - 

Scutching,   is.  4d.  aftone,  3  (tone 

Carrying  back  -  - 

Hackling  is.  4d.  ditto  -. 

Rent  ------ 

No  tythe  of  flax. 


£ 

s. 

d. 

0 

2 

6 

0 

I 

0 

0 

O 

9 

0 

I 

0 

0 

I 

8 

0 

O 

5 

0 

O 

8 

0 

O 

9 

0 

I 

8 

0 

I 

0 

0 

4 

0 

0 

0 

6 

0 
0 

4 
2 

0 
0 

£ 


At  ik  pecks  to  a  rood  this  is,  per  Cunningham 

acre,  about         -  9 

Vol.  I,  O  Eight 


ig+  A    R    D    S. 

Eight  pound  of  flax,  and  three  of  tow,  worth 
6d.  or  flone,  rough  ;  make  30  hanks  of  yarn 
for  a  1400  linen:  one  woman  will  fpin  it  in 
30  days,  and  earn  4d.  a  day.     42  hanks  make 
a  web  of  25  yards,  which  is  wove  in  2  weeks, 
and  he  earns  5'd.   a  yard  or   4£d.  and  will  fell 
green  for  i-j?d.  or  i8d.  a  yard.     Not  a  bleach- 
ing green  in  all  Ards  for  want  of  water.     All 
along  the  coaft  of  Ards    and   in   Strangford 
Loch,  fea  wrack  is  collected  by  the  country 
people  with  great  diligence,  for  burning  into 
kelp ;  it  yields  at  prefent  from  40s.  to    50s.  a 
ton,  the  bleach  greens  have  much  of  it,  and 
the  reft  of  it  exported  to  England.     Some  gen- 
tlemen, who  keep  their  fhores  in  their  own 
hands,  pay  the  men  20s.  a  ton  for  collecting 
and  burning  :  at  other  times  they  pay  rent  for 
the  fhore.     In   Loch  Strangford  the   kelp  is 
better  than  on  the  open  fhore  :  an  inftance  of 
induftry  in  this  Loch  deferves  to  be  recorded. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  men  to  draw  ftones 
from  their  fields,  and  fpread  them  on  the  fhores 
in  order  to  make  the  wrack  (fucus)  grow ;  a 
good  crop  being  only  obtained  from  rocks  and 
ftones.     Upon  the  coaft  of  Ards,  they  have  in 
winter  much    tangle  wrack,  which  they  col- 
led very  carefully,  form  into  heaps,  and  when 
rotten  fpread  it  on  their  barley  lands,  and  get 
very  fine  crops,  but  it  is  not  lafting. 

The  plentifulnefs  of  the  country  about 
Portaferry,  Strangford,  &c.  is  very  great:  this 
will  appear  from  the  following  circumftances, 

as 


A    R    D     S.  195 

as  well  as  the  regifter  of  butchers  meat  and 
common  poultry  elfewhere  inferteci. 

Pigeons  2s.  a  dozen.  Rabbits  4d.  a  couple. 
The  fifh  are,  Turbot  4s.  Sole  rod.  a  pair;  Bret 
and  Haddock  id.  each  ;  Lobfters  5s.  a  dozen; 
Oyiters  19A  a  hundred;  John  Dory,  Gurnet  ; 
Whiting  4d.  a  dozen  ;  Mackarel,  Mullet,  Par- 
tridges, and  Quails  in  plenty.  Wild  Ducks 
iod.  to  is.  Widgeon  6d.  a  couple,  Barnacle 
iod.  each;  Teal  6d.  a  couple,  Plover  3d. 

This  country  is  in  general  beautiful,  but 
particularly  fo  about   the  {freights  that  lead 
into  Strangford  Loch.      From   Mr.   Savage's 
door  the  view  has  great  variety.     To  the  left 
are  tracts  of  hilly  grounds,  between  which  the 
fea  appears,  and  the  vaft  chain  of  mountains 
in  the  Ifle  of  Man  ditlinctly  feen.     In  front 
the   hills  rife    in  a  beautiful  outline,   and  a 
round    hill   projects  like  a  promontory    into 
the  {freights,  and  under  it   the  town  amidft 
groups  of  trees;  the  fcene  is  chearful  of  it- 
felf,  but  rendered  doubly  fo  by  the  lhips  and 
herring-boats  failing  in  and  out.    To  the  right 
the  view    is   crowned    by    the  mountains  of 
Mourne,  which,  whenever  feen,  are  of  a  cha- 
racter peculiarly  bold,  and  even  terrific.      I  he 
fhores  of  the  Loch  behind  Mr.  Savage's  are 
bold  ground,  abounding  with  numerous  plea- 
fing  landfcapes ;  the  oppofite  coaft,  confifting 
of  the  woods  and   improvements  of  Caftle- 
Ward,  is  a  fine  fcenery. 

O  2  July 


196  L    E    C     A    L    E. 

July  30th,  croiTed  the  fireights  in  Mr.  Sa- 
vage's boat,  and  breakfafted  with  Mr.  Ainf- 
woith,  collector  of  the  cuftoms ;  he  gave  me 
the  following  particulars  of  the  barony  of  Le- 
cale,  of  the  hufbandry  of  which  I  had  often 
heard  as  fomething  better  than  common.  The 
foil  varies  near  the  fea,  ftoney  loam,  dry  found 
good  land,  fome  without  ftone  between  the 
rocky  hillocks,  fome  very  Honey  ;  the  land  is 
light,  as  may  be  judged  from  two  horfes  being 
ufually  in  a  plough,  lets  on  an  average  from 
12s.  to  28s.  average  20s.  the  whole  county  10s. 
The  meafure  the  plantation  acre.  The  fouth 
coafl  is  the  richeft.  Farms  rife  from  5  to  30 
acres  ;  the  little  ones  are  all  manufacturers  : 
there  are  fome  of  30,  and  perhaps  40,  that  are 
not  weavers,  but  moft  of  them  employ  looms. 
The  divifion  of  farms  among  the  fons,  have 
brought  them  fo  low  that  they  have  been 
obliged  to  weave  for  fubfiflence.  In  the  richer 
parts  they  fummer  fallow,  and  the  eourfe 
then  is: 

1.  Fallow. 

2.  Wheat,  average  produce  1 8  cwt. 

3.  Bailey  ditto,  a  ton  per  acre. 

4.  Oats  ditto,  4hhds.  each,  12  bufhels. 

5.  Peafe. 

6.  Bailey. 

7.  Clover  (of  which  they  fow  much)  for  2 

years. 

8.  Barley. 

9.  Oats. 
10.  Wheat. 

1.  Potatoes 


L     E    C     A    L    E.  197 

1.  Potatoes  400  bufhels. 

2.  Barley,  one  ton  and  a  half. 

3.  Barley. 

4.  Clover  for  2  years,  much  of  it  foiled  in 

the  liable,  a  practice  which  increafes. 


Alfo, 

I. 

Plough-lay 

for  oats. 

2. 

Wheat. 

3- 

Barley. 

4- 

Clover  or  peafe. 

1. 

Potatoes. 

2. 

Flax. 

3- 
4- 

Barley. 
Barley. 

5- 

Clover  two 

years. 

Have  lately  got  into  the  way  of  eating  down 
a  3  year  old  lay,  and  plough  it  in  July,  and 
once  or  twice  more  for  wheat :  but  to  fow  fuch 
with  peafe  or  beans  on  one  earth,  and  then 
take  the  wheat,  would  be  much  better.    Peafe 
efteemed  a  refreshment,  and  enables  them  to 
have  one  or  two  crops  of  white  corn.     Great 
quantities  of  barley  fown,  being  their  princi- 
pal crop.     No    turnips.     Their  manures  are 
marie,   fhells,    fea-wrack.      Marie  has   been 
ufed  greatly  for  many  years,    it    is  faid   for 
above  60 :  it  is  white  marie  from  the  bottom 
of  bogs,  and  fome  of  it  immediately  under  the 
furface;  they  carry  it  on   horfeback  in  bags, 
which  hold  each  4  bufhels,  and  they  lay  about 
450  to  500  bags  per  acre.     When  the  farmer 
'  has 


i93  L    E    C    A    L    E. 

has  not  marie  on  his  own  ground,  he  pur- 
chafes  it  from  his  neighbour,  and  pays  from 
il.  is.  to  il.  i os.  for  liberty  to  raife  it,  and  if 
they  carry  it  a  mile,  or  a  mile  and  an  half,  it 
coOs  them  61.  an  acre.     They  are  reckoned 
very  much  to  have  exhaufted  their  land  -,  for 
upon  the  credit  of  marling  they  will  take  20 
corn-crops  running,  and  as  a  proof  of  this  I 
was  told,  that  the  Deanery  of  Down,  which 
confifts   cf  tythes  in   Lecale,  was   2,20ol.  a 
year,  35   years   ago,    whereas   it   is    now  no 
more  than  160SI.  owing  to  the  decline  of  the 
Lecale  crops ;  and  this  from  the  abufe  of  marie. 
Second  mariings  do  not  fucceed,  they  think, 
but  it  has  not  been  tried.     Lime  they  ufe  only 
on  dry  lands,  and  not  often.     They  have  the 
{tone  from  Carlingford,  and  they  burn  it  with 
coals ;  it  colls   them    1  id.  a  barrel,  lay  from 
80  to  150:  the  lighter  the  land,  the  lefs  they 
lay  on  it:  it  lafts  8  or  9  crops;  does  upon  old 
marled  lands  better   than  a  fecond  marling. 
Sea  fhelly  fand  and  gravel  they   have  upon 
their  ownihore;  lay  them  thick  on  ftifT  red- 
difh  clay  foils,  and  find  great  effect  from  them ; 
lay  greater  quantities   much   than   of  marie, 
about  800  one-horfe  loads,  the  belt  crops  in 
the  barony  are  gained  by  it.     Parts  by  fhelling 
advanced,   from   5s.   to   25s.  an  acre.      Very 
little  grafs  land,  and  fcarce  any  cattle  but  cows 
to  every  farm  for  convenience.     The  farmers 
are  generally  not   only  in   Lecale,    but   the 
whole  county  much  better  and  wealthier  than 
formerly. 

Tythes 


LEGALE.  i99 

Tythes  generally  compounded  2s.  2d.  an 
acre  for  all  under  crops.  The  price  of  provi- 
fions  has  rifen  in  general  one-third  in  20  years. 
And  a  cow  which  40  years  ago,  was  bought 
for  25s.  is  now  5I.  5s.  and  as  good  a  horfe,  25 
years  ago,  for  4  to  5I.  as  now  fold  for  iol  to 
12L 

There  are  fome  cotters  who  have  not  farms, 
only  a  potatoe  garden,  a  patch  of  flax,  grafs 
for  a  cow,  and  a  little  ftraw  for  the  winter,  for 
all  which  they  pay  2I.  2s.  a  year.  Rife  in  the 
price  of  labour  from  4d.  and  board  to  5d.  and 
6|d.  and  ditto  in  20  years.  The  fuel  gene- 
rally coals,  which  are  13s.  to  1 8s.  a  ton,  and 
they  fend  their  children  to  pick  up  dung  to 
burn  j  yet  this  is  the  country  that  \  have  heard 
commended  for  hufbandry.  Building  a  mud 
farm-houfe  81.     Ditto  ftone  and  flate  30I. 

The  linen  manufacture  is  carried  on  very 
generally  through  the  barony.  In  Downpa- 
trick  there  are  500  webs  fold  every  week,  at 
is.  id.  a  yard,  and  26s.  each,  being  from  800 
to  1400,  in  general  1200  linen  j  which  1200 
web  will  take  38  hanks  of  4  hank  yarn,  and 
a  woman  will  on  an  average  fpin  the  38  hanks 
in  as  many  days,  being  paid  4d.  a  hank  •  a  wea- 
ver will  make  it  in  a  fortnight,  and  has  10s. 
for  it. 

Upon  the  marling  coming  in,  there  was  a 
corn-coafting  trade  opened  from  Strangford, 
and  it  flourifhed  confiderably,  but  fell  off  pret- 

vr 


2oo  L    E    C    A    L    E. 

ty  much,  as  has  been  mentioned  with  refpect 
to  the  deanery  of  Down.  The  trade  has,  how- 
ever, been  upon  the  increafe  for  about  4  years ; 
from  the  nth  of  September,  1775,  to  Juty 
the  1  ft,  1776,  there  were  100  cargoes  of  wheat 
and  barley,  about  50  tons  each  on  an  aver- 
age, to  Liverpool,  Whitehaven,  Lifbon,  &c. 
and  to  Dublin.  Two-thirds  to  Dublin,  and 
one-third  foreign,  which  export  received  the 
bounty.  The  export  both  foreign  and  coaft- 
ing,  in  1774,  nearly  the  fame  as  1775.  In 
1773  about  75  cargoes:  in  1772,  60  to  70. 
The  trade  in  general  of  Strangford,  export, 
import,  fhips  and  feamen,  has  been  in  general 
Increaftng  for  10  years  laft  paft  j  but  the  year 
ending  the  25th  of  laft  March  higher  than 
ever  it  was  before,  having  every  year  been  in 
a  regular  gradation.  The  decline  of  1772 
and  1773,  in  the  linen  manufacture,  &c.  not 
felt  in    the  trade  of  this   place. 

To  the  port  of  Strangford,  which  includes 
Downpatrick,  Dundrum,  Killilea,  Killoch, 
Portaferry,  Comber,  and  Newtown,  there  be- 
long 30  vefels,  from  35  to  1  50  tons  burthen, 
befidesfifhing  vefTels,  of  which  27  fail  receiv- 
ed the  bounty  in  1775:  the  fame  number  in 
1774,  in  1772  twenty-three.  The  burthen 
of  the  veffels  in  1775  from  28  to  75  tons,  and 
the  bounty  about  700I.  All  up  the  channel, 
to  Strangford  and  Killilea,  and  into  the  Loch, 
there  is  30  feet  water,  and  on  the  bar  there  is 
as  much  in  the  loweft  fprings.  A  fhip  of  100 
guns  might  lie  within  15  yards  of  thei'hore. 

Called 


CASTLE  WARD.  20E 
Called  at  Lord  Bangor's  at  Caftle  Ward,  to 
deliver  a  letter  of  recommendation,  but  un- 
fortunately he  was  on  a  failing  party  to  Eng- 
land ;  walked  through  the  woods,  &c.  The 
houfe  was  built  by  the  prefent  Lord.  It  is  a 
very  hand  ome  edifice  with  two  principal 
fronts,  but  not  of  the  fame  architecture,  for  the 
one  is  Gothic,  and  the  other  Grecian.  From 
the  temple  is  a  fine  wooded  fcene ;  you  look 
down  on  a  glen  of  wood,  with  a  winding  hill 
quite  covered  with  it,  and  which  breaks  the 
view  of  a  large  bay:  over  it,  appears  the  pe- 
niniula  of  Strangford,  which  confifts  of  in- 
clofures  and  wood.  To  the  right,  the  bay  is 
bounded  by  a  fine  grove,  which  proie&s  into 
it.  A  (hip at  anchor  added  much.  The  houfe 
well  fituatcd  above  feveral  riling  woods,  the 
whole  fcene  a  fine  one.  I  remarked  in  Lord 
Bangor's  domains,  a  fine  field  of  turnips,  but 
uHhced.     There  were  fome  cabbages  alio. 

I  took  the  road  to  DownpatTick,  through  a 
various  country  i  Down  Bay  is  on  the  left, 
and  exhibits  an  amazing  variety  of  iflafids, 
creeks,  and  bays,  which  appear  among  culti- 
vated hills  in  a  moft  pi&urefque  manner. 
Here  I  faw  fheep  grazing  in  a  ditch,  confined 
by  a  line  fattened  by  two  pins,  and  drove  into 
the  ground,  and  palling  through  rings  which 
hung  from  a  ftrap  reund  their  necks,  fo  that 
they  could  move  only  from  one  end  to  the 
Other, 

To 


202        BELFAST. 

To  Redemon,  the  feat  of  Arthur  Johnfton, 
Efq;  got  there  late  in  the  evening,  but  being 
abfent,  I  defired  the  fervants  to  give  me  a  bed, 
dreading  being  caught  again  at  a  village  cab- 
bin. 

July  31ft,  to  Saintfield.  Rents  are  10s.  6d. 
an  acre.  Several  bogs  here ;  one  in  particular 
half  cultivated,  the  reft  unimproved  j  fine 
oats,  potatoes,  and  barley,  were  on  it.  One 
piece  of  oats  (hoots  directly  into  the  unculti- 
vated part,  and  fhews  plainly  what  might  be 
done  with  all  the  bogs  of  this  country. 

Reached  Belfaft  in  the  forenoon,  and  was 
then  fortunate  enough  to  meet  with  Mr. 
Holmes,  alfo  a  letter  from  Do&or  Haliday, 
who  being  abfent  himfelf  recommended  me  to 
feveral  other  gentlemen.  Gained  upon  the 
whole  the  information  I  willied  ;  it  conlifted  of 
the  following  particulars. 

The  imports  of  Belfaft  confift  in  rum,  bran- 
dy, geneva,  and  wines.  Till  within  thefe  two 
years  much  grain,  fince  that  none,  but  have 
on  the  contrary  exported  fome.  Coals  from 
Britain.  Iron,  timber,  hemp,  and  afhes,  from 
the  Baltic.  Barilla  from  Spain  for  the  bleach 
greens.  Tea,  raw  fugars,  hops,  and  porter 
the  principal  articles  from  Great  Britain.  From 
North  America,  wheat,  ftaves,  iiour,  and  flax- 
feed,  all  which  cut  off  at  prefent.  The  ex- 
ports ar^  beef,  butter,  pork,  to  the  Weft-In- 
dira and  France.      The   great    article   linen 

cloth 


BELFAST.  203 

cloth  to  London  -,  formerly  fome  to  America. 
The  balance  much  in  favour  of  the  place. 
Derry,  Newry,  and  Belfaft.  the  linen  export 
towns  j  two  thirds  from  Belfaft,  a  little  from 
Derry,  the  reft  from  Newry.  There  are  three 
fugar  houfes  here.  The  number  of  fhips  be- 
longing to  Belfaft  about  50  fail  from  20  to  300 
tons.  A  vefTel  of  200  tons,  half  loaded,  may 
come  to  the  Quay,  there  being  9  and  a  half  to 
10  feet  water;  larger  veffels  lay  2  miles  and  a 
half  down.  The  trade  of  Belfaft  was  at  its 
height  in  177O;  177 1,  1772,  and  1773,  were 
the  worft  years  ;  1774,  and  1775  it  has  been 
mending;  but  1774,  and  1775  not  equal  to 
1770,  and  1771,  by  one  third.  Jl  is  curious 
to  fee  from  hence  how  the  trade  of  this  place 
has  vibrated  with  the  linen  manufacture,  that 
being  juft  the  account  I  have  received  of  the 
progefs  of  that  fabrick.  Calculated  that  the 
trade  of  Belfaft  in  general  encreafed  one  third 
in  fifteen  years,  ending  in  1^70,  or  1771. 
The  number  of  people  fuppofed  to  amount  to 
from  1 2  to  t  5,000.  Belfaft  being  the  place  from 
whence  the  emigrations  were  the  greateft,  I 
made  many  enquiries  concerning  them,  and 
found  that  they  have  for  many  years  had  a  re- 
gular emigration  of  about  2000  annually,  but 
in  1772  the  decline  of  the  linen  manufacture 
encreafed  the  number-,  and  the  fame  caufe 
continuing  in  1773  they  were  at  the  higheft, 
when  4000  went.  In  1774  there  were  but 
few;  and  in  1775  there  were  none,  nor  any 
fince.  Some  that  went  had  property,  and  fo 
had  fome  of  thofe  that  always  went.  In  ge- 
neral 


204         BELFAST. 
neral  they  were  the  raoft   idle  and  worthlefs, 
and  not  reckoned  any  lofs  to  the  country.     In 
1 77 1  there  were  300  looms  in  Belfait,  but  in 
1774  there  were  only  180. 

There  is  a  confiderable  (laughter  at  this 
place.  In  1775  cured  6000  barrels  of  beef,  at 
40s.  a  barrel,  in  the  town  ;  and  $,500  of  pork 
at  50s.  The  principal  part  of  the  grazing 
land  the  lower  part  of  Antrim  from  Ballymena 
towards  Lame,  and  Ballymony*  fome  from 
Meath  and  even  from  Sligo.  The  hogs  from 
Armagh,  Down,  and  Antrim,  weigh  on  an 
average  2  cwt.  fattened  moftly  on  potatoes ; 
6  or  7  years  ago  they  exported  500  barrels  of 
pork.  In  1771;,  7000.  In  1776,  it  will  be 
10,000.  When  oatmeal  ab  we  id.  or  Ud.  a 
pound,  the  poor  live  entirely  upon  potatoes 
and  milk ;  no  meat ;  but  herrings  in  the  fea- 
fon.  Price  of  provifions,  &c.  at  Belfaft  are; 
potatoes  9d.  a  bufhel,  pigeons  6d.  a  couple, 
rabbits  ditto,  falmon  2d.  a  pound,  lobfters  6d. 
plaice  three  farthings  per  lb.  oyfters  is.  to  4Si 
per  hundred,  frefh  cod  id.  per  lb.  barnacle  is. 
widgeon  is.  a  pair,  oatmeal  three  farthings 
per  lb,  lime  is.  per  barrel,  coals  13s.  a  ton. 
Labour  the  year  round  is.  is.  in  the  town, 
8d.  in  the  country.  Seamen  30s.  a  month, 
and  fhip  provifions.  Spinners  earn  3d.  a 
-day.  Weavers  is.  id.  they  never  go  for  la- 
bourers. 


Grafs 


BELFAST.         205 

Grofs  cuftom  including  excife  upon  tobacco  and 
foreign  Jpirits. 

,763  -         -        £  32,900 

1764  -          -          -       35.70O 

,765  -              "              "       49.6oo 

1*60-  -          "              "        53>6oo 

,767  -             -              5°>Soo 


1768 
1769 
1770 
1771 

1772 


56,200 

5i>5°° 
63,600 

62,100 

58,700 


,773        "        "         "         -     59,9°° 

17  74      -        "        "        "        6°'10° 
l775  -  -        64,800 

In  the  year  ending  the  25th  of  March  1774, 
pieces  of  linen  exported  147,218 ;  yards 
3>7*3>822.  rieces> 

From  1  ft  Nov.  1771,  to  lft  May,  1772  85,402 

Next  half  year  -  "  9*>1™ 

177,1m 


Firfl  half  year  -  -  *         95>*2S 

Second  ditto         -  -  -  "     *7'°8? 

Total         -  l*Wl\ 

Belfaft  is  a  very  well  built  town  of  brick, 
they  having  no  ftone  quarry  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. ^The  ftrects  are  broad  and  itrait, 

and 


2o6         BELFAST. 

and  the  inhabitants,  amounting  to  about 
15,000,  make  it  appear  lively  and  bufy.  The 
public  buildings  are  not  numerous  or  very 
linking,  but  over  the  exchange  Lord  Don- 
negal  is  building  an  affembly  room,  60  feet 
long,  by  30  broad,  and  24  high  ^  a  very  ele- 
gant room.  A  card  room  adjoining,  30  by 
22,  and  22  high;  and  a  tea  room  of  the  fame 
lize.  His  Lordfhip  is  alfo  building  a  new 
church,  which  is  one  of  the  lightefl  and  moft 
pleafing  I  have  any  where  feen  :  it  is  74  by 
54,  and  30  high  to  the  cornice  ;  the  ifles  fe- 
parated  by  a  double  row  of  columns  -,  nothing 
can  be  lighter  or  more  pleafing.  The  town 
belongs  entirely  to  his  Lordfhip.  Rent  of  it 
2000I.  a  year.  His  eftate  extends  from  Drum- 
bridge,  near  Lifburn,  to  Lame,  20  miles  in 
a  right  line,  and  is  10  broad.  His  royalties 
are  great,  containing  the  whole  of  Loch. 
Neagh,  which  is  I  fuppofe  the  greateft  of  any 
fubject  in  Europe.  His  eel  fifhery  at  Tome, 
and  Port-New,  on  the  river  Ban,  lets  for 
<^ool.  a  year ;  and  all  the  fifheries  are  his  to 
the  leap  at  Colraine.  The  eflate  is  fuppofed 
to  be  31  ,ocol.  a  year,  the  greateft  at  prefent 
in  Ireland.  Innifhoen,  in  Donnegal,  is  his, 
and  is  n,oool.  of  it.  In  Antrim,  Lord  An- 
trim's is  the  moft  extenfive  property,  being  4 
baronies,  and  173,000  acres.  The  rent  8000I. 
a  year,  but  relet  for  64,0001.  a  year,  by  tenants 
that  have  perpetuities,  perhaps  the  crueleft 
jnftance  in  the  world  of  carelefTnefsfor  the  in- 
terefts  of  poflerity.  The  prefent  Lord's  father 
granted  thofe  leafes. 

Mr. 


BELFAST.  270 
Mr.  Portis  of  Belfaft,  laft  year  fowed  3  acres 
2  roods  of  flax  j  let  it  ftand  till  quite  ripe,  then 
ftacked  it  like  corn,  and  threfhed  it  in  March  ; 
produce  of  feed  8  hogiheads,  which  fold  at 
4I.  4s.  or  33I.  12s.  He  watered  it  then,  and 
went  through  the  whole  operation  as  common. 
By  being  kept  fo  long,  he  found  it  required 
lefs  watering  than  in  the  common  way.  This 
is  not  the  ufual  method  of  doing  it. 


Dr. 


3  A.  2  R.  at  15s. 

per  acre         -      2 

12 

6 

Ploughing  with  2 

horfes,  plowman 

and  boy,  at  4s. 
2d.   per  day,  4 
days           -          0 
Harrowing  -    and 

16 

8 

Towing,    5s.   4d. 
and  cleaning  the 

furrows,  4s.         0 

9 

8 

One  hogfhead    of 

feed      -                4 

0 

0 

Reaping         -          1 
Stacking,     thatch- 

6 

0 

ing  and  bringing 

home          -          0 

15 

0 

Expenfes  of  water- 

ing, drying,  tak- 
ing to  the  mill, 

and  cleaning,  at 

2d.  perlb. 8961b. 
a    large    allow- 

ance         -           7 

9 

4 

£.  17 

Net  profit         -     38 

9 
10 

10 

£  56 

0 

0 

Cr. 

By  8  hoccfheads  of 

clear    ieed    fold 

at    4I.    4s.    per 

hogfhead  33   12.     o 

By     896  lb.  clean 
'flax   fold  at  6d. 

a  lb.         -  22     8     o 

Would  have  fold  for  74. 
if  it  had  been  judicioufly  ma- 
naged, by  fuffering  it  to  lav 
a  day  or  two  longer  in  the 
water,  which  would  have 
made  the  (lax  finer. 


£■  56   o 


Note, 


2o8         BELFAST. 

Note,  be  ground  was  rather  inclined  to 
clay,  was  ploughed  from  lay,  but  received  no 
manure  for  two  years ;  ploughed  about  Chrift- 
rnas,  furrowed  and  fowed  the  latter  end  of 
March,  but  covered  with  a  fhovel  from  the 
furrows,  from  an  inch  to  an  inch  and  an  half 
thick. 


Some  of  the  expenfes  of  an  acre. 

of  common 

\  Jiax 

near  Belfqft. 

Rent              - 

L 

1 

0    0 

Tythe  by  modus 

- 

0 

1    0 

Seed,  hogfhead,  or  7  bufhels,  at  8s. 

- 

2 

16    0 

Sowing             - 

- 

0 

0    6 

Ploughing  and  harrowing 

- 

0 

8     8 

Stones  and  clods 

- 

0 

2     2 

Weeding,  8  women  1  day 

■ 

0 

4    4 

Pulling  20  women 

- 

0 

10  10 

"Watering             - 

0 

3    3 

Taking  out  and  grafs-carrying,  drying  and  beetling 

1 

1     0 

Scutching  all  at  mills  is.  4d.  a  ftone. 
Hackling,   is.  4d.  ditto. 

6 

7     9 

I  was  informed  that  Mr.  Ifaac,  near  Belfaft, 
had  4  acres,  Irifh  meafure,  of  ftrong  clay  land 
not  broken  up  for  many  years,  which  being 
amply  manured  with  lime  rubbiiTi,  and  fea 
fhells,  and  fallowed,  was  fown  with  wheat, 
and  yielded  87I.  9s.  at  9s.  to  12s.  per  cwt.  Alfo 

that 


L  E  S  L  Y    HILL.  "209 

itfelf.  In  the  progrefs  of  the  heaps,  fpread 
bog  earth  on  fome  of  the  layers,  to  make  it 
burn  quicker,  but  it  will  do  without.  The 
following  paper  contains  the  directions  by 
which  Mr.  Lefly  performed  the  work. 

"    A     CLAY     KILN. 

This  kiln  (See  the  annexed  plate)  is  20  feet  by 
12,  but  it  may  be  made  longer  or  fhorter,  ac- 
cording to  the  quantity  you  want ;  it  may  al- 
fo  be  of  any  breadth  that  will  allow  men  from 
each  fide  to  throw  clay  to  the  middle.     A.  A. 
are  the  air-pipes  in   the  middle  between  the 
fod    walls    made,  either   by    cutting   a   little 
trench  in  the  ground  fix  inches  deep,  and  fo 
many  broad,  covering  them  with  flat   ftones, 
Hates  or  bricks,  or  by  ftones  laid  on  the  ground 
at  the  fame  diftance,  and  covered  in  the  above 
manner  ;  the  ufe  of  thefe  being  to  give  air  to 
the  fire,  and  make  it  burn  better.     The  end 
muft  be   brought  a  foot  on  each  fide  without 
the  fod  walls,  and  carefully  kept  from  being 
choaked  up  with  the  allies  or  rubbifh.     B.  B. 
are  the  fod  walls,  about  10 or  1  2  inches  thick; 
they  muft  be  3  feet  diftance  from  each  other; 
the  ufe  of  them  is  to  keep  fuel  and  clay  tight, 
and  confine  the  heat.     Raife  all  the  fod  walls 
two  feet  and  an   half  high,  except  the  fides 
next  the  wind,  fill  the  fpaces  between  the  walls 
with  turf,   furze,   wood,  or    any   manner  of 
firing,  and  thereon  lay  dry  clay  6  or  8  inches 
thick,  very  clofe  and  even,  fet  fire  to  it  on 
the  windward  fide,  and   then   build  up  that 
Vol.  I.  *  F  fide 


sic*  LESLY    HILL. 

fide  alfo  to  the  level  of  the  other  fod  walls ; 
when  the  clay  begins  to  look  red,  throw  on 
more  by  degrees  •,  the  greateft  difficulty  is  to 
get  the  firft  clay  well  on  fire,  when  that  is  ac- 
complished after  the  firft  day,  it  wants  no 
other  attendance  than  to  throw  on  fome  frefh 
clay  morning  and  evening,  and  it  will  conti- 
nue burning  as  long  as  you  pleafe,  till  you 
can  throw  the  clay  no  higher.  The  clay  may 
be  ufed  juft  as  it  is  dug  out  of  the  pit.  The 
fod  walls  on  the  ends  and  fides  muft  from  time 
to  time  be  raifed  as  high  as  the  clay  to  keep  in 
the  heat;  if  the  fire  be  too  wTeak,  it  may  be 
helped  by  giving  it  vent  by  a  poker  from  the 
top,  or  if  it  goes  out,  it  may  be  renewed  by 
putting  in  fome  frefh  fuel  and  clay.  When 
you  fail  to  fupply  it  with  frefh  clay,  the  fire 
will  go  out  -,  the  clav  will  then,  appear  like  the 
t ubbiih  of  a  brick-kiln.  Lay  the  fame  quan- 
tity of  it  on  your  land  that  you  wTouldof  dung ; 
but  as  poor  and  light  land  requires  more  than 
firon^  ground,  experience  muft  determine  the 
exact  quantity.  The  froft  and  rainwili  diiTolve 
all  the  large  lumps.  It  will  exceedingly  en- 
rich your  land  either  for  corn,  flax,  or  grafsj 
it  kills  all  fprats,  (juncus)  and  produces  a  fine 
fweet  herbage,  that  lafts  many  years.  Chufe 
the  place  for  your,  kiln,  where  the  clay  is 
thick  and  moft  convenient  for  carriage  to  your 
fields  that  want  manure ;  it  will  be  well  worth 
your  pains  to  burn  any  clay  or  earth  in  this 
manner  (fand  and  gravel  only  excepted^ ;  it  is 
a  very  cheap  manure,  and  hardly  inferior  to 

the 


L  E  S  L  Y     HILL.  .2n 

the  marie,  fhells,  lime,  fand  or  fea  weed,  that 
have  enriched  all  the  farmers  of  this  kingdom, 
who  have  had  fenfe  and  induflry  enough  to 
make  ufe  of  them.  The  beft  kiln  16  feet 
wide." 

Mr.  Lefly  pra&ifed  the  drill  husbandry  fe- 
veral  years,  in  confequence  of  the  recom- 
mendations of  Mr.  Wynn  Baker.  He  bought 
of  him  a  complete  fet  of  tools  for  the  purpofe, 
a  drill  plough,  horfe-hoes,  &c.  and  fpared 
neither  attention  or  expenfe  to  give  it  a  fair 
trial,  but  found  that  it  would  not  anfwer  at 
all,  and  then  gave  it  up.  Lucerne  by  tran- 
fplantation  he  alfo  tried,  following  Mr.  Ba- 
ker's inftruclions  exactly ;  but  that  did  no 
better  than  the  other,  and  he  ploughed  it 
up. 

In  cattle,  Mr.  Lefly  has  been  equally  at- 
tentive ;  he  procured  one  of  Mr.  Bakewell's 
bulls  two  years  ago,  and  has  bred  many  calves 
,by  him,  but  they  are  not  yet  of  an  age  to  ' 
judge  of  the  merit  of  the  breed  :  the  bull  is 
a  very  fine  one.  In  draining  he  has  made 
confiderable  exertions,  principally  by  hollow 
ones.  Mr.  Lefly's.  granary  is  one  of  the  beft 
contrived  I  have  feen  in  Ireland;  it  is  raifed 
over  the  th  refiling  iioor  of  his  barn,  and  the 
floor  of  it  is  a  hair-cloth  for  the  air  to  pafs 
through  the  heap,  whieh  is  a  good  contri- 
vance. The  whole  building  is  well  executed 
and  very  convenient,  and  contains  two  large 
bullock  fheds. 

*  P  a  The 


212*        LESLY    HILL. 

The  common  hufbandry  around  Lefly  Hill 
is  like  that  of  the  reft  of  the  manufacturing 
part  of  Ireland.  The  country  is  in  very  fmali 
divifions,  of  from  5  to  30  acres,  and  the  cent 
upon  an  average  12s.  Rent  of  the  whole 
county  not  5s.     Londonderry  not  fo  much. 


I. 

2. 

3- 
4- 

5- 

Potatoes. 
Flax. 
Oats. 
Oats. 
Weeds  for 

2  years,  called  a 

lay. 

1. 

2. 

3- 
4. 
5- 

Potatoes. 
Barley. 
Oats. 
Oats. 
Weeds  for 

2  years. 

Rent 

An 

acre  of  potatoes. 

1 

fa 

O 

Three 

:  bolls  feed,  30s 

. 

1 

10 

O 

Dung, 

,  160  loads,  at 

3d. 

- 

2 

0 

0 

Spreac 

No  wi 
Takio 

ling,  planting, 

ceding  becaufe  1 
g  up,  &c. 

and  trenching 

lay  ground. 

—                   • 

P* 

I 

2 

5 

0 

7 

7 

0 

LOD 

UCE. 

LESLY    HILL.         *2i3 
Produce. 

320  Bufhels  at  is..  -  -  -1600 

Expenfes  -  -  -  770 

-* 
Profit        -         -        -      £.  8  13     o 

Prime  coft  5  id.  per  bufhel. 

A  man,  his  wife  and  4  children,  will  eat 
4  bufhels  a  week.  If  they  live  upon  oat- 
meal, they  will  eat  4olb.  or  2  bufhels  of  oats. 
Average  price  of  oatmeal  2s.  2d.  a  fcore 
pounds.  Of  barley  fovv  3  bufhels  and  get  70. 
Of  oats  they  fow  7  bufhels  and  get.^40  the 
firft  crop,  and  30  the  fecond,  and  if  they  run 
a  third  crop,  not  more  than  20.  A  little  lime 
ufed. 

Expenfe  of  an  acre  of  flax, 


Rent  3s.  for  10  perches  twice  ploughed  and  har- 

rowed            -               -             r    ' 

2 

12 

0 

Tythe 

0 

8 

0 

4  Bufhels  of  feed                                                  r 

2 

0 

0 

Taking  off  Hones  and  clods 

0 

2 

8 

Weeding                 - 

© 

8 

0 

Pulling                 - 

0 

4 

0 

Laying  in  water                              - 

0 

2 

8 

Taking  out  and  grading 

0 

8 

0 

Lifting  and  drying  with  fire 

0 

16 

4 

Beetling  and  fcutching,  16  {lone,  at  is.  4d. 

1 

1 

0 

packling  ditto 

1 

<I 

0 

£ 

9 

3 

8 

The 


£H*        LESLY    HILL. 

The  {lone  of  flax  will,  after  hackling,  be   51b.  and  31b. 
of  tow. 

Flax  per  acre,  8olb.  at  is.  id.              *-  468 

4S  Pound  of  tow,  6d.             -             -  -140 


£•     5   IO 


Expcnfes  -  93 

Produce 


This  account  fnrprized  me  fo  much,  that  I 
repeated  the  enquiry,  and  had  it  confirmed. 
The  flax  is,  however,  generally  fown  on 
their  own  land,  and  in  that  cafe  only  the 
common  rent  to  be  reckoned.  The  5Tb.  of 
flax  will  fpin  into  9  hank  yarn  45  hanks, 
and  a  woman  will  fpin  4  a  week,  the  price 
for  fpinning  6d.  a  hank.  If  they  are  hired, 
they  are  paid  3I.  a  year  and  board.  Of  thefe 
9  hank  yarn,  the  cloth  made  takes  50  hanks 
to  aweb  of  25  yards,  but  they  make  double 
webs  generally,  of  twice  that  length  :  of  7 
hank  yarn  a  web  of  48  yards,  32  inch  wide, 
will  take  88  hanks ;  a  man  weaves  it  in  15 
days,  is  paid  25s.  and  fells  it  for  3s.  a  yard 
green.  The  tow  is  fpun  into  2  hank  yarn, 
and  wove  into  coarfe  cloth. 


The 


A 


L  E  S  L  Y    HILL.         *2i$ 

The  food  of  the  poor  people  is  potatoes, 
oatmeal,  and  milk.  They  generally  keep 
cows  j  fome  ©f  them  will  have  a  quarter  or 
a  fide  of  beef  in  winter,  but  not  all.  Upon 
the  whole,  they  are  in  general  much  better 
off  than  they  were  20  years  ago,  and  drefs 
remarkably  well.  The  manufacture  is  at  pre- 
fent  very  flourifhing.  When  the  price  of 
cloth  is  low  or  bad,  numbers  of  weavers  turn 
labourers. 

The  emigrations  were  confiderable  in  1772 
and  1773,  anc*  carr^e<^  °ff  a  good  deal  of  mo- 
ney, but  it  was  chiefly  of  diilblute  and  idle 
people  :  they  were  not  milled  at  all.  There 
is  fome  land  yet  in  the  rundale  way,  but 
20  years  ago  much  more  ;  alfo  change-dale, 
which  is  every  man  changing  his  land  every 
year. 

Rents  have  fallen,  in  4  years,  3s.  an  acre,  and 
arc  but  juft  beginning  to  get  up  again.  Lanq 
fells  at  21  years  purchafe.  Labour  has  rifen, 
in  20  years,  from  $d.  to  yd.  No  rife  in  the 
price  of  proviiions  in  20  years,  or  very  little. 
The  religion  ten  to  one  Presbyterians. 

Auguft  4th,  accompanied  Mr.  Lefly  to  his 

brother's  at  — — ■ — ,  within  3  miles 

of  the  Giant's  Canfeway,  where  I  had  the 
pleafure  of  learning  fevcral  particulars  con- 
cerning the  country  upon  the  coall.  They 
mcafurc  by   the  Cinunughain-acre.  and  rents 

are 


2i6*        LESLY    HILL. 
are  on  an  average  12s.     Along  the  coaft  there 
is  a  tracl  of  clay  at  from  14s.  to  20s.     The 
courfes  of  crops ; 

1.  Potatoes. 

2.  Barley. 

3.  Oats. 

4.  Oats. 

1.  Potatoes. 

2.  Barley. 

3.  Flax. 

4.  Oats. 

5.  Oats,  and  then  lay  out  for  2  years. 

Much  of  the  country  is  in  the  rundale  and 
likewife  in  the  change-dale  fyflem.  The 
little  farmers  are  all  weavers,  who  weave  10 
or  I2CO  linen,  and  fpin  great  quantities  of 
yarn  for  the  Derry  market.  Oatmeal  and 
potatoes  are  the  general  food  of  the  lower 
people,  who  reckon  that  one  barrel  of  pota- 
toes, to  live  on,  is  eo^al  to  2  bufhels  of 
meal.  One  barrel  will  lafx  a  family  of  fix 
eight  days,  and  cofts  on  an  average  3s.  6cL 
or  4s.  Oatmeal  is.  2d.  to  3s.  6d.  the  2olb. 
but  iid.  per  lb.  on  an  average.  One  bunhel 
of  oats  yields  1 81b.  of  meal.  The  oats  are 
dried  at  home  with  turf  on  kilns,  which  coft 

from 


LESLY  HILL.  *2i7 
from  3I.  to  5I.  they  are  then  fent  to  a  mill 
to  be  fhelled,  in  which  operation  they  lofe 
half-  after  which  they  are  ground ;  the  land- 
lord appoints  the  mill,  and  they  pay  2 2d. 
for  it. 

The  average  crop  of  potatoesjs  300  bufhels 
on  the  Cunningham  acre,  which  is  259  to  the 
Englifh.     The  account  they  ftate  thus  : 


Rent 


015    o 


County  cefs             -                 -  -             006 

Seed,  30  bufhela,  -at  is.                 -  -         1   10     o 

300  Load  of  dung,  at  2d.             -  -           2   10     O 

Putting  in  40  men  a  day,  at  6d.  5            -         1     e    o 

Weeding                                  '   *  -            0-10    O 

Digging,  &c.  &c.                 t  -                 200 


L    8     5    6 


Produce. 

300  Bufhels,  at  is.  -  -  15     o    o 

Expenfes  «  -  856 


Profit  i,         £.    6  14    6 

Prime  coft,  per  bufhel,  63d. 

Thev 


2i8*    GI  ANTS  CAUSEWAY. 

They  are,  however,  fometimes  fo  low  that, 
inftead  of  profit,  the  account  is  a  lofing  one  ; 
laft  year  they  were  40*.  a  bufhel,  and  in  Cole- 
raine  3d.  Oats  are  now  is.  a  bufhel  ;  feve- 
ral  thoufand  bufhels  have  been  exported  from 
Coleraine  to  London  at  that  price. 

There  is  a  considerable  falmon  fifhery  on 
the  coaft;  the  fifh  are  cured  in  puncheons 
with  common  fait,  and  then  in  tierces  of  42 
gallons  each,  6  of  which  make  a  ton;  and 
it  fells  at  prefent  at  17I.  a  ton,  but  never  before 
more  than  1 61.  average  for  10  years  14I. 
This  rife  of  price  is  attributed  to  the  American 
fupply  of  the  Mediterranean  with  fifh  being 
cut  off. 

Rode  from  Mr.  Lefty's  to  view  the  Giant's 
Can fe way.  It  is  certainly  a  very  great  cu- 
riofity,  as  an  objecl  for  {peculation,  upon  the 
manner  of  its  formation;  whether  it  owes  its 
origin  to  fire,  and  is  i  fpecies  of  lava,  or  to 
chryflalization,  or  to  whatever  caufe,  is  a 
point  that  has  employed  the  attention  of  men 
much  more  able  to  decide  upon  it  than  I  am  ; 
and  has  been  fo  often  treated,  that  nothing 
1  could  fay  could  be  new.  When  two  bits 
of  thefe  bafaltes  are  rubbed  together  quick, 
they  emit  a  confiderable  fcent  like  burnt  lea- 
ther. The  fcenery  of  the  Caufeway,  nor  of 
the  adjacent  mountains,  is  very  magnificent, 
though  the  clifts  are  bold  ;  but  for  a  confi- 
derable diftance  there  is  a  ftrong  difpofition 

iq 


COLERAINE.  .219 
in  the  rocks  to  run  into  pentagonal  cylinders, 
and  even    at  Bridge,  by  Mr. 

Lefly's,  is  a  rock  in  which  the  fame  difpofi- 
tion  is  plainly  vifible.  I  believe  the  Caufeway 
would  have  ftruck  me  more  if  I  had  not  feen 
the  prints  of  StarFa. 

Returned  to  Lefty  Hill ;  and  Auguft  5th, 
departed  forColeraine.  There  the  right  hon. 
Mr.  Jackfon  affifted  me  with  the  greateft  po- 
litenefs  in  procuring  the  intelligence  I  wifhed 
about  the  falmpn  fishery,  which  is  the  greateft 
in  the  kingdom,  and  viewed  both  ftfheries 
above  and  below  the  town,  very  pleafantly 
fituated  on  the  river  Ban.  The  falmon  fpawn 
fh  all  the  rivers  that  run  into  the  Ban  about 
the  beginning  of  Auguft,  and  as  foon  as  they 
have  done,  fwim  to  the  fea,  where  they  Hay 
till  January,  when  they  begin  to  return  to  the 
frefh  water,  and  continue  doing  it  till  Auguft, 
in  which  voyage  they  are  taken ;  the  nets  are 
fet  the  middle  of  January,  but  by  act  of  par- 
liament no  nets  nor  weirs  can  be  kept  down 
after  the  12th  of  Auguft.  All  the  fifheries 
on  the  river  Ban  let  at  6000I.  a  year.  From 
the  fea  to  the  rock  above  Coleraine,  where 
the  weirs  are  built,  belongs  to  the  London 
companies  ;  the  greateft  part  of  the  reft  to 
Lord  Donnegal.  The  eel  fifheries  let  at 
ioooh  a  year,  and  the  falmon  fifheries  at  Cole- 
rain,  ioool.  The  eels  make  periodical  voy- 
ages, as  the  falmon,  but  inftead  of  fpawning 
in  the  frefh  water,  they  go  to  the  fea  to  fpawn, 

and 


22o*         C  O  L  E  R  A  I  N  E. 

and  the  young  fry  return  againft  the  rlrearn ; 
to  enable  them  to  do  which  with  greater  eafe 
at  the  leap,  ftraw  ropes  are  hung  in  the  water 
for  them  -,  when  they  return  to  fea,  they  are 
taken:  many  of  them  wreigh  9  or  iolb.     The 
young  falmon  are  called  growls,  and  grow  at 
a  rate  which  I  fhould  fuppofe  fcarce  any  filh 
commonly  known  cqunls  ;  for  within  the  year 
fome  of  them  will  come  to  16  and    i8lb.   but 
in  general  10  or   1  alb.  fuch  as  efcape  the  firft 
year's  fifhery  are  falmon  \  and  at   2  years  old 
will  generally  weigh  20  to  251b.     This  year's 
fifhery  has  proved  the  greater!:  that  ever  was 
known,  and  they  had  the  larger!  hawl,  tak- 
ing 1452  falmon  at  one  drag  of  one  net.     In 
the  year  1758,  they  had  882,  which  was  the 
next  greatefi  hawl.     I    had    the  pleafure   of 
feeing  370  drawn  in  atonce.     They  have  this 
year  taken  400  ton  of  fifh  ;   2CO  fold  frefh  at 
id.  and  ifd.  a  lb.  and  200  falted,  at  1 81.  and 
20I.  per  ton,  which  are  fent  to  London,  Spain, 
and  Italy.     The  fifhery  employs  80  men,  and 
the  expenfes  in  general  calculated  to  equal  the 
rent. 

The  linen  manufacture  is  very  general  about 
Coleraine,  coarfe  ten  hundred  linen.  It  is 
carried  to  Dublin  in  cars  1 10  miles,  at  5s.  per 
cwt.  in  fummer,  and  7s.  6d.  in  winter. 

Rents  in  Derry  10s.  6d.  the  Irifh  acre;  and 
farms  from  6  to  1 5  acres.  The  emigrations 
from  this  neighbourhood  were  in  general   of 

idle, 


NEWTOWN-LIMMAVADDY.  •aai 

idle,  loofe,  diforderly  people.  It  is  at  pre- 
fent,  I  was  informed,  too  populous;  and  if 
the  emigrations  are  not  renewed,  the  ill  ef- 
fects will  be  feverely  felt.  The  whole  county 
of  Derry  belongs  to  the  London  companies 
and  the  Bifhop,  except  fome  trifling  proper- 
ties. There  is  a  little  trade  at  Coleraine  in 
hides,  butter,  and  fillip  fome  meal  is  import- 
ed, which  founds  ftrange  after  hearing  that 
fo  many  oats  had  been  exported. 

Mr.  Jackfon  has  made  great  improvements 
to  his  houfe,  which  is  fituated  in  a  very  pret- 
ty domain  of  85  acres  on  the  banks  of  the  ri- 
ver, and  all  the  timber  he  has  ufed  is  out  of 
his  bog;  he  gets  very  large  oak  and  fir  trees: 
they  are  found  20  feet  deep,  and  all  lie  exact- 
ly eaft  and  weft. 

Auguft  6th,  to  Newtown-Limmavaddy; 
went  by  Magilligan,  for  the  fake  of  feeing 
the  new  houfe  building  on  the  fea  coaft,  by 
the  bifhop  of  Derry,  which  will  be  a  large  and 
convenient  edifice,  the  fhell  not  finifhed;  it 
{lands  on  a  bold  fhore,  but  in  a  country  where 
a  tree  is  a  rarity. 

At  Magilligan  is  a  rabbit  warren,  which 
yield  on  an  average  3000  dozen  per  ann.  1  a  it 
year  4000  and  5000  have  been  known.  The 
bodies  are  fold  at  2d.  a  couple;  but  the  fkins 
are  fent  to  Dublin  at  5s.  78.  to  6s.  a  dozen, 
felling  from    1500I.  to   1800I.  a  year.     The 

warren 


•  22*  NEWTOWN-LIMMAVADDY. 

warren  is  a  fandy  trad:  on  the  fhore,  and  be- 
longs to  the  bifhop.  I  was  informed,  that  at 
Hornhead  in  Donnegal,  Mr.  Stewart  has  a 
warren  of  fand  25  miles  long.  Mr.  Smith  of 
Newtown-Limmavaddy  gave  me  the  follow- 
ing particulars  of  that  neighbourhood.  Farms 
rife  fo  high  as  60  to  70  acres,  and  a  few  to 
200,  in  general  about  40  acres;  many  weav- 
ers patches  at  3  or  4,  but  the  farmers  them- 
felves  have  yarn  fpun  in  their  houfes,  which 
they  give  to  the  weavers  to  make  into  cloth : 
the  farmer  himfelf  attending  to  nothing  but 
the  management  of  his  land.  This  appears 
to  me  a  fign  that  I  fliall  foon  quit  the  linen 
country ;  for  thefe  are  more  of  farmers  than 
any  fet  I  have  met  with  for  fome  time. 
Rents  for  a  few  miles  about  the  town,  not 
including  the  town  parks  nor  mountain,  are 
at  5  s.  the  parks  30  s.  the  mountains  are 
in  great  quantities,  more  than  of  culti- 
vated land ;  and  all  they  do  is  to  raife  fome 
young  cattle  upon  them  and  feed  fome  fheep. 
The  5s.  are  old  rents,  but  new  are  10s. 
which  is  the  general  average,  Cunningham 
rneafure:  of  the  whole  countv  on  an  average 
not  more  than  4s.  including  bog  and  moun- 
tain. 

1.  Potatoes,  value  on  an  average  10I. 

2.  Barley,  3  boils,  at  12  bufhels. 

3.  Oats,  worth  50s. 

4.  Oats. 


NEWTOWN-LIMMAVADDY.  *22$ 

4.  Oats. 

5.  Flax. 

6.  Lay  2  or  3  years,  fome  fow  graiTes,  clo- 
ver, &c. 

7.  Oats. 

8.  Oats. 

Manures  are  {hells  from  the  Loch  fhore  and 
lime  ■,  lay  60  barrels  of  fhells  per  acre,  at  is. 
a  barrel  on  the  land,  will  laft  from  5  to  7 
years  ;  the  effect  very  great.  Prefer  it  to  lime 
for  light  land  •  but  for  deep  clay  ground  lime 
belt:  of  which  100  barrels,  at  is.  More  fhells 
ufed  than  lime.  Mountains  beginning  to  be 
improved;  they  pay  up  to  is.  6d.  an  acre; 
lime  at  120  barrels  an  acre;  fow  oats  in 
fucceffion  -,  as  long  as  the  land  will  bear 
them,  get  pretty  good  crops,  but  late:  the 
foil  is  very  wet,  "but  they  drain  it  with 
ditches. 

The  linen  manufacture  is  from  10  hundred 
to  16.  They  raife  their  own  flax  3  the  crops 
28  If  one  per  acre ;  after  fcntching  worth  5s.  qd. 
a  flone. 


Rent 


224    NEWTOWN. LIMMAVADDY. 


Rent  of  an  acre  twice  ploughed  and  harrowed 

2 

12 

c* 

Seed,  4  bufhels,  at  12s. 

2 

8 

0 

Clods  and  flones               -                 - 

0 

2 

0 

"Weeding                 k                   -                 - 

0 

2 

0 

Pulling,  10  women,  at  Sd. 

0 

6 

8 

Carrying  to  water 

0 

5 

0 

Taking  out  and  grafting 

0 

5 

0 

Lifting  and  carrying 

0 

4 

0 

Drying  10  kifhes  turf,  1  os.  labour  2s. 

0 

12 

0 

Beetling  at  home  16  women,  at  8d. 

0 

10 

8 

Scutching  is.  4d.  a  ftone 

1 

*5 

4 

Hackling  8d.  ditto                 • 

0 

17 

8 

& 

10 

0 

4 

The  yarn  from  two  to  ten  hanks  a  lb.  gene- 
rally four;  fpin  a  hank  a  day:  are  hired  for 
it  at  3I.  3s.  a  year ;  if  done  in  the  cabbin,  are 
paid  from  4d.  to  4id.  a  hank.  The  poor  live 
on  potatoes,  milk,  and  oatmeal,  with  many 
herrings  and  falmon ;  very  little  flefh.  In 
ten  or  fifteen  years,  their  circumftances  are 
improved ;  they  live  and  drefs  better,  and  have 
better  cabbins. 


The 


D-     E      R      R      Y.  22$ 

The  emigrations  were  very  great  from  hence 
of  both  idle  and  induftrious,  and  carried  large 
fums  with  them.  Not  too  populous  at  pre- 
fent.  They  have  a  great  fpirit  of  dividing 
their  farms,  however  fmall,  from  which  many 
inconveniencies  arife  5  the  farmers  will  do  the 
fame  with  their  farms.  Rents  have  fallen,  in 
5  years,  3s.  6d.  in  the  pound,  and  are  ftill  ra- 
ther upon  the  decline.  The  manufadure  flou- 
rifhes  moft  when  oatmeal  is  not  lower  than  id. 
a  lb,  A  bufhel  of  potatoes  is  reckoned  equal 
to  20  lb.  of  oatmeal. 

From  Limmavaddy  to  Deny  there  is  very 
little  uncultivated  land.  Within  4  miles  of 
the  latter,  rents  are  from  1 2s.  to  20s.  moun- 
tains paid  for  but  in  the  grofs.  Reached  Derry 
at  night,  and  waited  two  hours  in  the  dark 
before  the  ferry-boat  came  over  for  me. 

Auguft  7th,  in  the  morning  went  to  the 
Bifhop's  palace  to  leave  my  letters  of  recom- 
mendation; for  I  was  informed  of  my  misfor- 
tune in  his  being  out  of  the  kingdom.  He 
was  upon  a  voyage  to  Staffa,  and  had  fent 
home  fome  of  the  flones  of  which  it  confifts  ; 
they  appeared  perfectly  to  refemble  in  fhape, 
colour,  and  fmell,  thofe  of  the  Giant's  Caufe- 
way.  I  felt  at  once  the  extent  of  my  lofs  in 
the  abfence  of  his  lordfhip,  who  I  had  been 
repeatedly  told  was  one  of  the  men  in  all  Ire- 
land the  moft  able  to  give  me  a  variety  of  ule- 
ful  information,  with  at  the  fame  time  the 
moft  liberal  fpirit  of  communication. 

Vol.  I.  Q,  Waited 


2a6  D      E      R      R      Y. 

Waited  on  Mr.  Robert  Alexander,  one  of 
the  principal  merchants  of  Derry,  who  very 
obligingly  took  every  means  of  procuring  me 
fuch  information  as  I  wanted  ;  rode  with  me 
to  Loch  Swilly  for  viewing  the  fcene  of  the 
herring  fifhery,  and,  aflifted  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Barnard,  gave  me  the  following  particulars 
concerning  it. 

In  the  barony  of  Innifhoen,  the  courfes  are, 
I.  Barley  8  barrels ;    2.  oats  io;    3.   oats  65 

4.  lay  for  3  years. 

1.  Oats;  2.  oats;  3.  oats;  4  lay  3  years. 

1.  Potatoes  on  lay;  2.  barley;  3.  oats   10 
barrels;  4.  oats  6;   5.  oats  5  ;  6.  lay  3  years. 

I.  Potatoes  iol.  2.  barley;  3.  oats  ;  4.  oats; 

5.  flax  4  Cwt.     . 

Barley  the  principal  crop,  and  generally 
worth  5I.  to  61-  Rent  of  the  whole  peninfula 
to  lord  Donnegal  1  i,oool.  and  to  the  occupy- 
ing tenant  22,oool.  The  meafure  is  the  plan- 
tation acre.  The  bottoms  of  Innifhoen  20s.  an 
acre:  the  whole  county  of  Donnegal  not  is. 
The  linen  is  getting  in  but  verynowly,  but 
fpinning  very  general,  and  the  beft  yarn  in  all 
the  north:  they  fpin  all  their  own  flax,  and 
generally  into  3  hank  yarn ;  which  all  goes  to 
Derry,  and  from  thence  to  Manchefter.  The 
fpinners  fpin  a  hank  a  day :  a  pound  of  flax 
worth  6d.  fpins  into  3  hanks,  which  fell  at 

prefent 


LOCH    SWILLY.  227 

prefent  at  is.  9c!.  which  is  $d.  a  day  earning, 
but  in  common  only  4d.  Flax  yields  per  acre 
fcutched  37  Cwt.  at  6^,d.  per  pound,  fells  on 
foot  at  61.  to  81.  expenfes  per  acre,  fcutching 
included,  5I.  14s. 

The  ifle  of  Inch  belongs  to  Lord  Donnegal  -, 
300L  rent,  and  6000I.  fine,  and  the  occupying 
tenants  pay  1  ,iool.  a  year,  there  are  2000  acres. 
The  fize  of  farms  in  Inniflioen  are  from  10  to 
20  acres,  with  a  run  on  the  mountains  for 
cattle.  They  have  lime  ftone  in  many  parts 
of  the  country,  (hells  in  great  plenty  in  the 
lochs,  which  fell  at  3d.  a  barrel  for  burning 
into  lime;  other  rotten  (hells  in  whole  banks 
for  manure,  which  they  ufe  much,  laying  40 
barrels  per  acre.  The  foil  a  flaty  gravel  mixed 
with  clay,  with  fprings  :  the  effect  of  the 
fhells  not  great,  except  upon  mountain  land 
drained,  where  they  throw  up  white  clo- 
ver. There  is  a  fall  in  the  rent  of  lands  in  4 
or  5  years.  Religion  generally  roman  catholic. 
Sea  weed  much  ufed  for  potatoes  j  and  excel- 
lent for  garden  cabbages. 

Rowed  frow  Fawn  to  Inch  Ifland  acrofs  the 
loch,  the  fcenery  amazingly  fine,  the  lands 
every  where  high  and  bo'd,  with  one  of  the 
nobleft  outlines  any  where  to  be  feen.  Inch  is 
a  prodigioufly  fine  extenfive  ifland,  all  high 
lands,  with  cultivation  fpreading  over  it,  little 
clufters  of  cabbins  with  groups  of  wood:  the 
water  of  a  great  depth :  and  a  fafe  harbour  for 
any  number  of  fhips :  here  is  the  great  refort 
O   2  of 


a28  LOCH    S  WILLY. 

of  veflels  for  the  herring  fifhery  ;  it  begins  the 

middle  of  October,  and  ends  about  Chriftmas  $ 

it  has  been  5  years  rifing  to  what  it  is  at  pre- 

fent  •,  laft  year  500  boats  were  employed  in  it : 

the   farmers   and  coaft  inhabitants  build  and 

fend  them  out,  and  either  fifh  on  their  own 

account,   or  let  them;    but  the    latter  moil 

common.     Five  men  take  a  boat,  each  man 

half  a  fhare,  each  net  half  and   the  boat  a 

whole  one.     A  boat  cofts  iol.  on  an  average, 

each  has  6  ftand  of  nets  at  2I.     In  a  middling 

year  each  boat  will  take  6000  herrings  a  night, 

during  the  feafon,  6  times  a  week,  the  price 

on  an  average  4s.  2d.  a  1000  from  the  water, 

home   confumption  takes  the  moft,  and  the 

(hipping  which  lies  here  for  the  purpofe  the 

reft. 

The  (hips  on  the  flation  for  buying  are  from 
20  to  100  tons,  and  have  the  bounty  of  20s. 
a  ton. 

By  the  ad  they  are  to  be  built  fince  the  year 
1776,  each  has  one  or  two  boats  for  fifhing ; 
alfo  for  the  firft  20  tons  they  muft  have  8  men, 
and  2  to  every  8  ton  above  20.  The  mer- 
chants who  have  the  mips,  both  buy  of  the 
country  boats  and  fifh  themfelves  :  they  both 
cure  for  barrel  and  in  bulk  that  is  falted  in  the 
hold  of  a  fhip  ;  a  ton  of  fait  will  cure  10,000 
herrings,  500  herrings  in  a  barrel  of  thofe  of 
Loch-fwilly,  but  800  at  Killybegs.  They 
made  their  own  barrels  of  American  ftaves, 
but  now  of  fir  j    1000  ftaves,   Philadelphia, 

will 


D      E      R      R      Y.  229 

will  make  8  ton  or  64  barrels,  and  the  price 
61.  the  1000,  making  lid.  each  barrel,  20 
hoops  to  the  barrel,  at  6d. 

500  boats,  laft  year,  at  $  men  £.  2,500 

Men  on  more  faking  -  -  300 

In  gutting  a  little  boy,  10  or  12  years  old, 

at  a  halfpenny  a  100,  will  earn  iod.  a 

day. 
60  fhips,  at  10  men  -  600 

Twine  of  a  40s.  ftand  of  nets,  20s.  therefore 
20s.  for  labour  -,  271b.  of  flax,  fpun  into  16  or 
1 8  lb.  of  twine,  make  a  ftand. 

Mr.  Alexander  began  the  fifhery  in  1773, 
when  he  employed  two  iloops  only,  each  of  40 
tons.  In  1774,  he  employed  the  two  iloops 
and  a  brig  of  100  tons,  the  latter  of  which  he 
fent  to  Antigua  with  650  barrels,  befides  what 
he  fold  at  home,  and  loaded  the  iloops  in  bulk 
for  the  coaft  trade.  In  1775,  ne  na^  tne  fame 
brig  and  three  iloops,  and  loaded  all  four  in 
bulk  for  the  coaft  trade  -,  one  of  which  on  her 
voyage  was  put  afhore  at  Black  Sod,  in  the 
county  of  Mayoj  and  though  the  iloop  was 
not  the  Jeaft  injured,  the  country  came  down, 
obliged  the  crew  to  go  on  ihore,  threatening  to 
murder  them  if  they  did  not,  and  then  not 
only  robbed  the  veffel  of  her  cargo,  but  of 
every  portable  material.  The  cargo  was  40 
ton,  or  160,000  herrings.  Beiides  what  was 
fent  coaftwife  this  year,  he  exported  on  board 
his  fhip,  the  Alexander,  340  tons,  not  in  the 

herring 


£30  D      E      R      R      Y. 

herring  trade.    1750  barrels  to  the  Weft-Indies. 
Here  has  been  a  vaft  encreafe  of  the  fifhery  in 
the  hands  of  one  perfon,  which  fhews  clearly 
what  might  be  done  if  larger  capitals  were  em- 
ployed.    Mr.    Alexander   was   prevented  laft 
year  from  doing  fo  much  as   he  might  have 
done,  and  what  he  did  was  at  a  very  great  ex- 
penfe  for  want  of  proper   houfes,  which  are 
not  to  be  had  on  Loch  Swilly  -,  and  in  order  to 
remedy  this  inconvenience,  has  this  year,  1776. 
built  on  the  point  of  Inch  Ifland,  called  the 
Downing,  a  complete  falting-houfe,  confifting 
of  a  range  of  houfes  for  all  the  operations, 
divided  into  four  apartments,  one  of  20  feet 
by  1 8  a  ftore-room  for  coarfe  fait,  which  will 
hold  150  to  200  tons-  another  of  the  fame  di- 
menfions  for  fine  fait ;  a  third  for  receiving 
the  herrings  from  the  boats  and  gutting  them, 
of  the  fame  ilze ;  and  a  fourth  for  a  cooper's 
fhop.    Thefe  apartments  all  communicate  with 
a  fecond  range,  80  by  1 8,  which  is  filled  with 
vefTels  for  finking  the  herrings,  that  is,  put- 
ting them  for  fait  for  10  or  1 2  days ;  this  com- 
municates with  a  third  houfe,  80  by'  14,  in 
which  the  herrings,  being  taken  from  the  vef- 
fels  above  mentioned,  are  barrelled  and  finifh- 
ed  off  for  the  fhips.     Befides  thefe  there  is  a 
dwelling  houTe  for  the   clerks,  &c.  of  28  by 
14.     All  thefe  buildings  are  fubfhntially  erect- 
ed of  ftone,    and    covered   with   Hate.     The 
finifhing-houfe  contains  the  boats  when  not  in 
ufe,  and  above  it  is  a  light  loft  for  the  nets. 
Over  the  curing-houfe  is  a  large  loft  for  the 
£mpty  -barrels  3  and  over  the  cooper's  {hop  are 

apartments 


D      E      R      R      Y.  231 

apartments  for  the  workmen,  and  over  the 
gutting-houfe  is  a  hoop  ftorc.     But  the  falt- 
houfes  are  filled  to  the  roof.     All  thefe  build- 
ings   Mr.   Alexander  expects   to  finifh  com- 
pletely for  500I.     In  1775  there  were  about 
1 800  barrels  exported  befides  Mr.  Alexander's. 
There  were  that  year  fifh  enough  in  the  Loch 
for  all  the  boats  of  Europe.     They  fwarmed 
fo,  that  a  boat  which  went  out  at  7  in  the 
evening,  returned  at  1 1  full,  and  went  out  on 
a  fecond  trip.     The  fellows  faid  it  was  difficult 
to  row  through  them ;  and  every  winter  the 
plenty  has  been  great,  only  the  weather  not 
equally  good  for  taking,  which  cannot  go  on 
in  a  ftormy  night     In  the  buildings  above  de- 
fcribed  Mr.  Alexander   will  be  able  to  fave 
100,000  herrings  a  day,  which  will   take   10 
tons  of  fait,   17  or  18  boats,  and  90  men;  6 
men   to   carry  from     boats   to    the  gutting- 
houfe  ;  40  boys,  women,  and  girls  to  gut ;  4 
to  carry  from  gut-houfe  to  curing-houfe ;   10 
men  firft  faking  and  packing;  8  men  to  draw 
from  the  veffels,  and  carry  to  the  barreling- 
houfe;  and  10  packing  into  barrels,  which  10 
packers  will  keep  5  coopers  employed ;  6  men 
more  will  be  employed  in  ranging  the  barrels 
and  pickling  off;  8  men  more  carrying  to  the 
fhip's  boats.     If  100,000  herrings  come  in  re- 
gularly every  day,  this  would  be  the  courfe  of 
the  bufinefs.     The  buildings  are   in  fad,    a 
market  to  the  country  boats  to  refort  to  every 
day  to  fell  their  herrings,  as  far  as  the  quantity 
above  mentioned  extends. 

Ca/cu/atiou 


232  D      E      R      R      Y. 

Calculation  of  the  expenfes  of  this  bufinefs,  fup. 
pojing  1 00,000  herrings  cured  every  day. 

Buildings,  500I.  intereft  of  that  fum,    at  10 

per  cent.  -  -  -  -  -  50  00 
This  high  rare  of  intereft  is  reckoned  on 
account  of  the  precarioufnefs  of  all  herring- 
fimeries,  as  they  frequent  and  forfake  feas 
and  bays ;  and  if  they  were  to  quit  Loch' 
Swilly,  the  buildings  would  be  of  little  ufe 
but  to  let  for  a  trifle  as  cabbins. 

18  Boats,  atiol.       -      -       180     o     o 
90  Hands  of  nets,  at  40s.       180    o    o 


£-36° 


Intereft,   at  6  per  cent. 
Repairing  the  boats,    40s.  each 
Ditto  nets,  they  laft  but  two  feafons 
Wages  of  90  fifhermen,  at  is.  66.  a  day, 

8  weeks  -  324    o    o 


21 

12 

0 

36 

0 

0 

90 

0 

0 

£.  521   12    o 


N.  B.  At  this  expenfe  of  fifhing,  the 
prime  coft  of  the  herrings,  fuppole  6000 
taken  by  each  boat  a  night,  is  is.  per  1000  : 
but  it  muft  be  obvious  that  the  boats  cannot 
always  go  out,  neither  will  hired  men  fifti 
for  their  mafters,  as  they  will  for  themfelves. 
Hence  the  merchant  may  find  it  more  advan- 
tageous to  buy  at  4s.  2d.  than  to  depend  en- 
tirely on  his  own  boats, 


Wage* 


D      E      R      R      Y.  233 

£.  521  12    o 
Wages  of  52  men,   at  is.  id.  a  day, 

8  weeks  -  -  "  .  *35     4     ° 

18   boats,   108,000  herrings  a  day,  are 

5,184,000;  gutting  at  5d.  per  1000       io3     0     o 
Salt  10  tons  per  100,000,  or  518  tons, 

at2l.  ios.  for  the  curing  houie.  1295     O     O 

Salt  246  tons,  17  cwt.  at  fll  ios.  for 

the  barreling  houfe  ,617     3     6 

9,874  Barrels,  at  8  ton,  or  64  barrels 

to  the    1000   ftaves,    will   require 

154,000  ftaves,  at  7I.  1078  o  o 
164,000  hoops,  at  30s.  246  o  o 
Making  is.  2d.  per  barrel  575*9  8 
7    nails    to   every    band, 

which  is  allowing  one 

for  accidents,  58,000, 

at2s.  2d.  -  658     1906     S     4 

Prime  coft,  9s.  5d-  a  barrel.  ' 

4583     3  10 

Freight  of  9S74  barrels  to  Weft  Indies, 

at  3s.  id .        "  "- '    m  "  ,6*5  J3     4 

Duty  on  export,  with  gaugers  fees,  9d. 

a  barrel  -  -  3?o     5     <> 

6599    2    8 
Infurance  and  commiflion,  3  per  cent. 

onthatfum  -  -  200     1     5 

6799    4     r 
Intereft    on   that  fum  8  months,    at  6 

percent  -  -  _  2?4  ^     2 

7°73  l9     3 
The 


«34 


D      E      R      R      Y. 


The  price  in  the  Weft  Indies  rifes  from 

20s.  to  30s.  fterling  a  barrel. 
Average   25s. — 9,874  barrels  at   that 

rate  -  1234-2  10    © 

Dedud  expenfes        -  7°73  *9    3 

Profit  £•  520~8  10  9 


But  as  the  herrings  are  not  always  to  be 
taken  in  this  manner,  that  is,  6000  a  night 
by  the  merchants  boats ;  it  will  be  necef- 
fary  to  calculate  the  bufinefs  in  the  more 
common  way  of  carrying  it  on,  by  buy- 
ing them  of  the  country  boats,  at  4s.  2d. 
per  1000. 

Interefl:  as  before 

Purchafe  of  5,184,000,  at  4s.  2d.  per 
1000 

Labour  - 

Gutting  - 

Salt  - 

Barrels  - 

Prime  coft 

Freight  - 

Duty 

Infurance  and  commiflion 


50    o    o 


1080 

O 

0 

135 

4 

0 

108 

0 

0 

1912 

2 

6 

1976 

5 

4 

£-526r 

11 

10 

I645 

6 

8 

370 

5 

6 

7277     4     o 
218     6    o 


£.  7495  10    o 
Intercft 


D      E      R      R      Y.  23$ 

£.7495  10    o 
Intereft  on  that  fum,  at  6  per  cent,  for 

8  months  --  -  299   17     2 


7795     7     2 


Prime  cofl;  in  Weft  Indies    153.  9I&  a 

barrel. 
Sell  at  12342   10     O 

Expenfes  -  77So     7     2 


Profit  -  4547     2   10 

4546,  on  the  expenfes  of  7795,  is  58 

per  cent. — bounty  of  2s.  a  barrel  987     8     O 


£•5534  10  10 


Here  appears  a  very  noble  profit ;  but  fifh- 
ing  upon  paper  is  an  eafier  bufinefs  than  upon 
Loch  Swilly;  and  it  is  neceftary  to  obferve, 
that  the  merchant  who  engages  in  this  filhery, 
muft  provide,  if  he  fifties  himfelf,  boats,  nets, 
fait,  barrels,  and  ftores,  all  which  muft  be  rea- 
dy, though  not  a  herring  ftiould  come  into  the 
Loch,  or  though  ftorms  prevent  a  boat  going 
out.  He  muft  alfo  have  the  fum  ready  in  his 
counting- houfe  for  all  the  other  expenfes,  in 
cafe  the  fifnery  proves  fuccefsful,  which  upon 
the  whole  are  circumftances  that  make  great 
profits  neceffary,  or  the  bufinefs  would  not  be 
undertaken  at  all. 

The 


Men 

Ships 

Tons. 

90 

0 

0 

40 

0 

0 

52 

0 

0 

16 

1 

200 

SO 

3 

764 

120 

12 

J234 

368 

16 

2198 

236  C  L  O  N  L  E  I  G  H. 

The  inveftment  of  8000L  in  this  fifhery 
employs 


Fifhermen 

Gutters 

Sundries 

To  bring  the  flaves,  a  fhip  of 
200  tons,  feamen 

764  tons  of  fait,  3  (hips 

9,874  barrels  to  the  Weft  In- 
dies, 1234  tons,  12  (hips 


Befides  boat-building,  net  making  and  coop- 
ers. And  the  90  fifhermen  are  a  lure  nurfery 
of  feamen ;  much  of  this  great  fyftem  of  em- 
ployment is  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when  not 
demanded  for  other  purpofes. 

Auguft  8  th,  left  Derry,  and  took  the  road  by 
Raphoe,  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Golding's  at  Clon- 
leigh,  who  favoured  me  with  much  valuable 
information.  The  view  of  Derry,  at  the  dif- 
tance  of  a  mile  or  two,  is  the  moft  pitturefque 
of  any  place  I  have  feen  •>  it  feems  to  be  built 
on  an  iiland  of  bold  land  riling  from  the  river, 
which  fpreads  into  a  fine  bafon  at  the  foot  of 
the  town;  the  adjacent  country  hilly,  the 
fcene  wants  nothing  but  wood  to  make  it  a 
perfect  landfcape.  Palling  Raphoe,  found  the 
hufbandry  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Clonleigh 
as  follows.  The  foil  is  for  the  moll  part  light 
loamy  land,  with  fingle  large  Hones,  and  very 

wet 


C  L  O  N  L  E  I  G  H.  237 

wet  with  fprings,  with  confiderable  trads  of 
bog.     Rents  are  from   1 5s.   to  20s.  the  Cun- 
ningham acre,   and  fome   to   25s.  and  about 
towns  fome  up  to  30s.  and  40s.     Average  rent 
of  the  whole  county  not  more  than  is  .   Farms 
vary  from  5  to  40  acres,  in  general  2  5  or  30, 
very  many  from  7   to  10.     They  are  leffened 
by  the  farmers  dividing  them  among  their  chil- 
dren.    They  generally  fow  flax,  drefs  a  ~d  fpin 
it  in  their  families.     When  cloth  fells  well, 
they  get  it  wove  by  the  weavers,  who  are  alfo 
little  farmers.     At  other  times  they  fell  the 
flax  in  yarn  at  market,  many  of  them  never 
having  any  woven  at  all.     The  fpinners   in  a 
little  farm  are  the  daughters  and  a  couple  of 
maid  fervants,  that  are  paid  30s.  a  half  year, 
and  the  common  bargain  is,  to  do  a   hank  a 
day  of  3  or  4  hank  yarn.    Much  more  than  half 
the  flax  of  the  country  is  worked  into  cloth  -9 
a  great  deal  of  flax  is  imported  at  Derry,  this 
country  not  railing  near  enough  for  its  own 
manufacture ;  their  own  is   much  the  fineft. 
Their  tillage   is  exceeding  bad,  the   land  not 
half  ploughed,  and  they  like   to  have  much 
grafs  among  the  corn  for  improving  the  fod- 
der.    Their  courfe  is; 

1.  Potatoes  on  3  years  lay.  2.  Barley  10 
barrels.  3.  Oats  5  to  1 2  barrels.  4.  Oats.  5. 
Oats.     6.  Lay  for  weeds  3  years. 

I.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Flax  480  lb.  clean  fcutched,  or  30  (lone. 

They 


238  C  L  O  N  L  E  I  G  H. 

They  plant  14  meafures,  each  2  bnfliels  of 
potatoe-feed  an  acre,  the  crop  from  8  to  12 
fcore  meaiures.  The  flax  I  faw  was  nothing 
but  weeds  and  rubbifh  of  all  kinds,  yet  the 
crop  itfelf  had  an  appearance  of  being  good, 
as  if  the  land  was  not  to  blame.  As  to  ma- 
nuring, they  ufe  very  little  more  than  the  trifle 
they  make  in  their  ftable  and  cow-houfe.  A 
few  ufe  lime,  but  not  many;  the  price  is  iod. 
to  1 3d.  a  barrel :  a  .little  woollen  cloth  v/eaved, 
but  not  near  enough  to  cloath  themfelves. 
They  import  a  great  deal  from  Gal  way.  Land 
fells  at  24  and  26  year's  purchafe.  Rents  are 
very  much  railed ;  but  they  are  fallen  within 

4  or  5  years  >  in  40  years  conjecture  that  they 
are  doubled.  Tythes  are  compounded.  Oats 
pay  5s.     Barley  7s.     Potatoes,  flax,  and  hay, 

5  s.  In  fome  places  potatoes  free.  Leafes 
ufually  for  3  lives.  Lord  Abercorn  only  for 
twenty-one  years  and  no  lives,  yet  his  eftate  is 
w7ell  cultivated.  The  farmers  generally  re-let 
fome  of  their  lands  to  cottars  at  a  great  in- 
creafe  of  rent.  The  poor  people  live  upon 
oatmeal,  milk,  potatoes,  and  herrings;  but 
the  pooreft  eat  very  little  meat.  A  farmer  of 
iol.  a  year  will  have  a  good  meal  of  beef  or 
bacon  every  Sunday :  in  general  they  all  live 
much  better  than  they  did  formerly.  I  re- 
marked that  the  labourers  carried  with  them 
to  their  work  an  oat  cake  and  a  bottle  of  milk. 
All  their  milk  is  kept  till  fower,  till  which  they 
do  not  make  butter.  Scarce  any  fuch  thing 
as  wheeled  cars  in  the  country,  they  are  all 
Aiding  ones:  a  wheeled  one  35s.  a  Aiding  one 

2s.  6d. 


CLONLEIGH.  239 

2s.  6d.  A  plough  1  os.  6d.  A  harrow  of  wood 
is.  id.  The  fuel  all  turf,  and  much  of  it 
made  by  hand;  a  poor  man's  is  100  barrels  a 
year,  and  will  coft  him  35s.  The  common 
people  exceedingly  addicted  to  thieving. 

Building  a  cabbin  5I.  they  are  all  of  ftone, 
which  is  plentiful:  clay-mortar  inftead  of  lime. 
Almoft  all  the  farmers  have  a  man-fervant  at 
1,1.  1  os.  to  2L  the  half  year  entirely  employed 
in  the  farm.  A  farmer  of  Jol.  a  year  always 
one.  Very  little  cloth  made  farther  than 
Bally  maffey,  but  all  over  Donnegal  much  fpi li- 
ning. 

The  county  of  Tyrone  is  various ;  the  fineft 
parts  are  about  Dungannon,  Stewart's  Town, 
&c.  on  Lake  Neagh.  From  Strabane  to  Omagh 
much  good  •,  from  Omagh  to  Ardmagh  all  cul- 
tivated. From  Strabane  to  Dungannon  almoft 
all  mountains :  rent  of  the  whole  4s.  The  bi- 
fhop  of  Raphoe  is  a  confiderable  farmer,  and 
cultivates  and  hoes  turnips.  The  dean  has 
alfo  done  the  fame. 

Mr.  Golding  has  ufed  much  foapers  wafte, 
at  4d.  a  meafure  of  two  bulhels,  laid  them  on 
cold  moraffy  foils,  and  found  the  benefit  very 
great ;  it  brought  up  quantities  of  red  clover, 
and  deftroys  mofs  effectually.  Turnips  would 
do  excellently  here,  as  beef  rifes  from  one- 
penny  three  farthings  in  November,  to  three- 
pence halfpenny  and  four  pence  in  April.  Mr. 
Golding  has  ufed  Scotch  cabbages  for  bullocks  j 

gene- 


240  BALLYMAFFEY. 

generally  fats  2  bearls  every  year  on  them. 
Sows  the  feed  early  in  Auguft,  and  tranfplants 
them  in  April  and  May  for  fucceffion  ;  has  had 
them  in  full  perfection  in  February  and  March  • 
has  tried  fpring  fowings,  but  they  do  not  come 
to  more  than  5  or  6  lb.  whereas  the  Auguft  fown 
plants  rife  to  35  lb.  He  has  alfo  fed  fheep  upon 
potatoes,  buys  them  very  forward  in  o&ober, 
and  puts  them  to  his  after  grafs  to  keep  their 
flefh,  and  in  the  fevere  weather  gives  rhem  the 
potatoes  with  great  fuccefs.  He  took  the  hint 
from  feeing  the  fheep  walk  over  the  potatoe 
grounds,  and  fcratching  up  the  remaining  roots 
in  hard  weather.  The  only  evil  refulting  from 
the  emigrations  was,  the  money  they  carried  a- 
way  with  them,  which  was  confiderable. 

Auguft  9th,  to  Convoy,  where  I  was  fo  un- 
fortunate as  to  find  Mr.  Montgomery  from 
home;  paffing  on  to  BallymafFey,  I  met  that 
gentleman's  oxen,  drawing  fledge  cars  of  turf, 
fingle  with  collars,  and  worked  to  the  full  as 
well  as  the  horfes.  They  deferved  wheels 
however.  On  the  other  fide  of  BallymafFey, 
it  is  curious  to  obferve,  how,  as  you  advance 
towards  the  mountains,  cultivation  gradually 
declines,  it  is  chequered  with  heath,  till  at  laft 
the  heath  is  chequered  with  cultivation,  fpots 
of  green,  on  the  mountain  fides,  furrounded  by 
the  dreary  wildernefs  -,  but  there  are  no  inclo- 
fures.  The  wafte  is  exceedingly  improvable,  all 
the  tract  on  the  left  before  I  came  to  the  lake, 
and  alfo  beyond  it,  might  eafily  be  made  excel- 
lent j   it  is  bog,  with  a  great  fail  every  where, 

extends 


BALLY  MAFFE  Y.  24J 

extends  beyond  the  lake  to  the  mountain  foot, 
and  is  from  10  to  20  feet  deep;  rifes  in  perfect 
hills,  yet  all  bog.  Lime  is  to  be  had  here  from 
6d  to  8d  a  barrel  fix  miles  off.  I  had  two  ac- 
counts, one  of  6d,  and  the  other  of  8d,  but 
clayey  gravel  is  to  be  had  every  where  on  the 
fpot.  The  road  leads  acrofs  the  bog,  and  is 
made  of  it.  I  remarked  in  feveral  places,  little 
bogs,  forming  fpots  of  mofs  growing  on  the 
water,  and  in  fome  places  rotting,  with  other 
plants  growing  out  of  that.  Cars  may  go  three 
or  four  times  a  day  for  lime,  and  bring  three 
barrels  at  a  time.  I  was  the  more  attentive  to 
this  bog,  becaufe  it  appeared  to  me  to  be  one  of 
the  moll  improveable  I  had  icen,  and  the  fize 
of  it  makes  it  an  object  worth  the  attention  of 
fome  fpirited  improver  ;  it  is  not  every  where 
that  fo  decifive  a  fail  is  met  with  for  rendering 
the  drains  effective ;  the  diftance  from  lime  is 
advantageous.  Suppofe  a  car,  is.  a  day,  and 
to  bring  eight  barrels,  carriage  of  it  then  is  lid 
a  barrel,  and  fuppofe  the  lime  7^d,  in  all  o,d, 
J 60,  at  that  price,  comes  to  6  1.  at  which  rate 
I  am  clear  it  would  anfwer  to  lay  any  quantity 
on  to  fuch  bogs  as  thefe.  I  had  often  heard  of 
roads  being  made  over  fuch  quaking  bogs,  that 
they  move  under  a  carriage,  but  could  fcarcely 
credit  it  j  I  was,  however,  convinced  now,  for 
in  feveral  places,  every  ftep  the  horfe  fet,  mov- 
ed a  full  yard  of  the  ground  in  perfect  heaves. 
Got  to  a  miferable  cabin  on  the  road,  the  wi- 
dow Barclay's,  which  I  had  been  afTured  was 
an  exceeding  good  inn,  but  efcaped  without  a 
cold,  or  the  itch. 

Vol.  I.  R  Augnft 


i\z        MOUNT    CHARLES. 

Auguft  ioth,  got  to  Alexander  Montgome- 
ry's, Efq;  at  Mount  Charles,  Lord  Conyngham's 
agent,  by  breakfaft  •  found  he  was  fo  deeply 
engaged  in  the  fisheries,  on  this  coaft,  that  I 
could  not  have  got  into  better  hands ;  with  great 
civility  he  gave  me  every  intelligence  I  wifhed; 
as  an  introduction  to  it,  he  took  me  a  ride  to 
the  bays  on  the  coaft,  where  the  fifheries  are 
moft  carried  on,  particularly  Jnver  bay,  Mac- 
fwine's  bay,  and  Killibeg's  bay.  The  coaft  is 
perfectly  fawed  by  bays;  the  lands  are  high  and 
bold,  particularly  about  Killibegs,  where  the 
Icenery  is  exceedingly  romantic,  and  if  the  mul- 
tiplicity of  hills  upon  hills,  and  rocks,  were  plant- 
ed, would  be  one  of  the  moft  beautiful  fpots 
that  can  be  imagined.  The  ftate  of  the  fifhe- 
ries  may  be  judged  from  the  number  of  boats 
employed  in  the  feveral  ftations : 


"775- 

1 771S. 

Inver  bay 

5* 

72 

Killibegs  and  Fintia 

5o 

60 

Tilin  and  Tawney 

47 

47 

Brueklefs 

20 

25 

Boylagh  and  Roffes 

50 

5° 

Cloghanlee 

18 

18 

Dunfanachly 

20 

25 

Sheephaven 

30 

30 

287 

327 

For 


MOUNT    CHARLES.       243 

For  a  comparifon,  I  infer i  the  following  lift  offea* 
faring  men  in  Ireland,  1695. 


Seamen. 

Filhermen. 

Boatmen. 

Total. 

Papifts. 

Baltimore 

9 

188 

84 

28l 

268 

Belfaft   and  J 

Carickfer-  > 

194 

62 

12 

268 

2 

gus             J 

Coleraine 

48 

233 

169 

450 

209 

Cork 

58 

34 

91 

183 

III 

Donaghadee,} 

whereof        C 

283 

28 

2 

313 

O 

Matters,  35) 

Drogheda 

22 

56 

O 

78 

6l 

Dublin 

42 

271 

99 

412 

276 

Dundalk  and  7 
Carlingford  > 

2 

90 

0 

92 

51 

Gal  way 

42 

42 

88 

172 

140 

Killibegs 

5 

120 

4 

129 

7* 

Kinfale 

104 

19 

45 

225 

106 

Limerick 

13 

0 

137 

I50 

132 

Londonderry 

56 

46 

22 

124 

36 

Roffe 

20 

85 

77 

182 

148 

Sligo 

11 

68 

8 

87 

60 

Strangford 

69 

159 

12 

24O 

78 

Tralee  and  Kerry     2 

165 

0 

167 

163 

Waterford 

36 

83 

5° 

169 

i43 

Wexford 

80 

346 

0 

426 

399 

Wicklow 

22 

49 

5 

76 

58 

Youghall 

40 

114 

46 
95i 

20O 

i3S 

Total 

1158 

23«5 

4424 

2654 

Ra 


In 


2++  FISHERY. 

In  Inverbay  only  of  the  above,  there  is  a 
fummer  fiihery  for  herrings,  which  begins  the 
latter  end  of  July,  and  ends  the  beginning  of 
September.  All  the  other  places  are  winter  fish- 
eries, which  begin  in  O&ober,  and  end  early  in 
January,  Lifting  eight  weeks.  Every  boat  cofts 
1 8  1.  to  20  1.  and  has  fix  (hares  of  nets,  at  3  1. 
to  3  1.  3  s.  each  :  the  nets  all  made  of  hemp, 
from  the  Baltic,  which  coft,  drefTed,.  8d.  a 
pound,  fit  lor  fpinning  :  33  lb.  of  it  in  a  (hare 
of  nets  :  4  d.  a  pound  paid  for  fpinning  it,  or 
us.  a  (hare  :  weaving  the  nets  id.  a  yard  for 
one  flings  or  63  meihes  deep,  200  yards  run- 
ning meafure,  at  that  depth,  in  each  (hare. 
Six  hands  in  each  boat,  a  fkipper,  and  five  men. 
In  the  common  practice,  a  boat  is  divided  into 
feven  (hares,  the  boat  one ;  each  net,  half  a 
one  ;  and  each  man  half:  in  which  way  they 
divide  the  produce,  which  vibrates  between 
iol.  and  iool.  average  35I.  or  per  week  10s. 
a  man.  Thefe  boats  belong,  in  general,  to 
the  common  inhabitants  of  the  country,  far- 
mers, &c.  The  other  way  of  carrying  the  fiih- 
ery on  is,  that  thole  who  have  vellels  on  the 
bounty,  fit  them  out  at  their  own  expenfe,  and 
pay  the  flapper  il.  us.  6d.  a  month,  and  the 
common  men  20s.  a  month  ;  each  a  pair  of 
trowfers,  at  41s.  6d.  feed  them  with  as  much  po- 
tatoes, beef,  and  pork,  as  they  will  eat,  and 
plenty  of  whifkey,  which  all  together,  comes 
to  20s.  a  month.  The  repairs  of  the  boat  and 
tackling  are  large,  for  all  are  built  of  fir,  they 
come  to  3I.  per  annum  per  boat,  and  the  nets, 
Mr.  Montgomery  ufes  two  feafons,   and  then 

fells 


FISHERY.  245 

fells  them  for  half  price.      In  this  manner  of 
fifhing,  the  boats  catch  each,    on  an  average, 
100,000  herrings,    which   is  1600  herrings  a 
night,  but  the  common  boats  of  the  country, 
not  fo  well  fitted  up,  take  only  80,000.    They 
are  cured  in  bulk,  that  is  packed  into  the  holds 
of  the  velTels,  from  20  to  100  tons  each,  and  are 
fold  all  over  the  coaft  of  Ireland.     The  quan- 
tity of  fait  neceiTary  to  the  80,000  herrings, 
which  each  boat  catches,  is  7  tons,  at  the  price 
of  2I.  14s.  a  ton  5    this  is  the  price,  at  which 
Mr.  Montgomery  fells,  who  has  eftablifhed  con- 
fiderable  falt-works,  making  450  tons  annually, 
and  has    by  this  means  reduced  the  fait,  from 
3I.  1  os.  to  5 1,  down  to  2I.  14s.     The  veftels  em- 
ployed on  this  fifhery,  fox  the  bounty,  are  from 
30  to  100  tons.     A  vefTel  of  100  tons,  carries 
fa  bulk,  500,000  herrings,  or  the  produce  of  five 
boats ;  thefe  calculations  are  in  reference  only  to 
the  average  of  nights  andfeafons;  Mr  Nefbit's 
vefTel,  of  60  tons,  has  been  loaded  by  four  boats, 
in   three   nights,     and    Mr.  Montgomery   has 
taken    100,000    in  one  night,  with  two   nets, 
but  thefe  are  extraordinary  inftances.   The  par- 
liamentary bounty  is  20s.  a  ton,  but  there  muft 
be  four  men  for  the  rirfi  20  tons,  and  one  for 
every  8  tons  over,  the  owners  of  the  veifels  em- 
ploy no  more  boats,  than  to  enable  them,  by  the 
crews,   to  draw  the  bounty-,    and  what  thefe 
men  are  not  able  to  get,  they  buy  of  the  coun- 
try boats,  at  an  av, rage  of  5s.  a  1000,  which 
all  are  clear,  anfwers  much  better  than  having 
boats  of  their  own. 

Account 


246  FISHERY. 

Account  of  a  vejjel  of  100  tons. 

Building  2  boats,  at  19I.  jf.  38     p     o 

N.  B.  The  veflel  of  100  tons,  will  be  na- 
vigated by  7  men,  as  there  muft  be  14, 
by  the  aft,  to  draw  the  bounty  ;  7  men 
muft  be  fupplied  by  boats,  which  may 
be  called  2. 
Nets  -  -  -  38     o    o 

The  boats  are  19  to  21  feet  keel,  7  feet  4 


broad,  and  3  feet  4  in  depth.      The     76     O     O 
nets  are  120  fathom  long  at  the  rope, 
and  7  feet  deep. 

Building,  rigging,  and  fitting  out  a  veflel  of 
100  tons,  700I. 

Interefl  of  that  fum,  at  6  per  cent. 

Repairing  of  two  boats 

Ditto  nets  -  - 

Wages  of  12  men,  at  20s.  two  months 

Board  ditto  -  24     o 

Trowfers  -  -  2  12 

Skippers  extra         -  22 

Purchafe  of  300,000  herrings,  at  5s. 

N.  B.    The   two  boats   are  fuppofed   to 

catch,  each  100,000,  remain  therefore 

for  the  cargo,  300,000 
Forty  tons  of  fait,  at  54s.  -  108     o     o 

Packing,  falting,  &c.  4  men  at  is.  a  day,  48  days    9  12     2 

If  veflels  are  hired  to  carry  them  to  markets      260     6     o 
the  price  is  5d.  a  hundred  for  freight,  or 
4s.  2d.  a  iooo,  and  104I.  3s.  2d.  per 
cargo  for  1 00  tons  -  -  1 04    3     2 

364    9     2 
infurance, 


4   10 

0 

6    0 

0 

4  10 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0  —  52  14 

0 

75    ° 

0 

FISHERY.  247 

£-  364    9    2 
Infurance,  i\  per  cent,  on  300I.  -  4  10     o 

Supercargo  -  -  -  20     o     o 

388  19     2 
Intereft  on  that  fumfor  6  months,  at  6  per  cent.    11   15     o 

4OO    14      2 

At  the  ports  they  fell  from  10s.  to  35s.  per  ... 
1000,  on  an  average,  at  23s.  a  1000, 

500,000  at  that  price        -            -  575     o    o 

Expenfes                 -                 -  400  14     2 

Profit,  43!  per  cent.  -  -  174     5  10 

And  this  account  extends  only  fix  months 
from  the  firft  expenditure  of  the  money,  to  the 
receipt  from  the  cargo.  If  the  veffel  is  the  mer- 
chant's own,  then  the  account  will  be  as  fol- 
lows: 

Expenfes  as  above  £.  260     6     O 

A  veffel  of  100  tons*    700I.     Intereft  of 

which,  at  6  per  cent.  42     o     Q 

A  year's  pay  of  the  captain,  at 

4I.  a  month 
Six  men,  at  30s. 
Repairs  and  outfets,  ios.  a  ton 
Stores  for    7   men,    at   15s.  a 

month 

Per  annum 

Which  for  five  months  125   10     o 

Dedud  the  bounty  100    O  o 

Fees  and  charges  5    o  o-  95     °     °       3°  IO    ° 

Expenfes  -  t  *■  290  16     o 

Infuranc* 


4» 

0 

0 

99 

0 

0 

5° 

0 

0 

63 

0 

0 

302 

0 

0 

248  FISHER  Y. 

£.  290  16    o 
Infurance  cargo,  il 

per  cent.  4100 

Ditto  on  fhip  10  10  o 

-  -  15     o     o 


305   16     o 


Interefl  on  that  fum,  for  6  months,  at  6  per 

cent.  -  -  -  9     3° 


Produce 
Expenies 


Profit 


3<4 

*9 

0 

575 
3«4 

0 
T9 

0 
0 

260 

1 

0 

Here  appears  to  be  a  Iofs  of  28  per  cent,  by  ac- 
cepting the  bounty:  but  the  explanation  of  this 
lies  in  the  difficulty  of  being  fure  of  a  vefTel  on 
freight,  this  is  not  always  certain,  which  induces 
them  to  build,  though  freighting  thofe  of  other 
people  is  fo  evidently  cheaper.  Refpecling  the 
mode  of  taking  the  fi(h,  the  boats,  as  before  men- 
tioned, are  provided  with  all  the  accoutrements 
neceiTary ;  and  here  it  will  be  proper  to  men- 
tion an  improvement  of  Mr.  Montgomery's,  by 
which  he  has  faved  greatly:  in  common  the  nets 
are  tanned  with  bark,  but  he  mixes  tar  and  fifh 
oil,  5  parts  of  tar,  and  one  of  oil,  melted  toge- 
ther, to  incorporate  thoroughly,  and  while  quite 
hot,  puts  the  nets  into  a  tub,  and  pours  it  upon 
them,  in  quantity  fufncient  to  wet  them ;  draws 
it  off  by  a  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the  tub,  imme- 
diately, in  order  .that  too  much  of  it  may  not 
Hick,  and  make  them  clammy,  which  v\ouid  be 

the 


FISHERY.  249 

the  cafe,  if  it  cooled  on  them;  at  the  bottom  of 
the  tub,  fhould  be  an  open  falfe  bottom,  or  the 
nets  will  flop  the  hole,  and  the  mixture  will  not 
run  off  free  enough.  By  means  of  this  fimple 
operation,  the  nets  are  prevented  from  rotting 
and  the  fifhermen  are  faved  the  trouble  of  ever 
fpreading  and  drying  them,  which  in  common 
is  done  every  day,  and  is  a  great  flavery  in  the 
fhort  days ;  the  benefit  has  been  found  fo  great, 
that  almoff.  all  the  country  has  come  into  it,  and 
every  net  on  the  coaft  would,  this  year,  have 
been  done,  but  the  fcarcity  of  the  tar,  owing  to 
the  American  war,  prevented  it.  In  working  the 
nets  alfo,  Mr.  Montgomery  has  made  improve- 
ments ;  he  has  found  that  corki  ng  the  line  under 
the  (trapped  buoys  is  wrong,  as  it  keeps  it  in  an 
uneven  direction ;  he  has  a  vacancy  or  corks  for 
three  fathom  on  each  fide  the  buoy  lines,  but 
the  middle  fpaces  corked  thick,  which  he  finds 
to  anfwer  exceedingly  well.  He  remarks  that 
the  fifhery  fuffers  very  much,  for  want  of  an  ad- 
miral being  appointed,  as  in  Scotland,  to  hear 
and  determine  differences ;  there  is  no  order  or 
regularity  kept  up,  but  much  difturbance  and 
lofs  for  want  of  it.  In  the  file  of  the  herrings, 
the  merchant  fuffers  greatly,  by  the  competition 
of  the  Gotten  burg  and  Scotch  fifhery.  At  Cork, 
great  quantities  of  Gottcnburg  herrings  are  im- 
ported, which,  though  they  pay  a  duty  of  4s.  a 
barrel,  yet,  as  2s.  4d.  j  is  drawn  back  on  the  re- 
exportation, and  with  an  advantage  of  packing 
the  herrings,  of  20  Gottenbm-g  barrels,  into  25 
Iriih  ones,  and  confequently  having  the  draw- 
back on  25,  though  the  duty  is  only  paid  on  20, 

with 


250  FISHERY. 

with  all  thefe  circumftances,  great  quantities  of 
them  are  fent  to  the  Weft  Indies,  to  the  preju- 
dice of  the  Irifh  fifhery.  Another  mifchief  is, 
that  though  there  is  a  bountv  of  2s.  4d.  a  barrel 
exported,  yet  fuch  are  the  fees,  and  old  duty, 
that  the  merchant  receives  only  I  id.  h  and  that 
fo  clogged  and  perplexed  with  forms  and  delays, 
that  not  many  attempt  to  claim  it.  The  draw- 
back on  the  foreign  herrings  is  paid  immediate- 
ly on  the  merchant's  oath,  but  the  Irifh  bounty 
not  till  the  fhip  returns,  with  I  know  not  how 
many  affidavits  and  certificates  from  confuls  and 
merchants,  it  may  be  fuppofed  perplexing  when 
it  is  not  claimed.  The  Scotch  have  a  bounty 
per  barrel,  on  exportation,  which  they  draw  on 
fending  them  to  Ireland,  by  which  means  they 
are  enabled,  with  the  afliftance  of  a  higher 
bounty  on  their  veffels,  to  underfell  the  Irifh 
fifhery  in  their  own  markets,  while  the  Irifh 
merchant  is  precluded  from  exporting  to  either 
Scotland  or  England ;  this  is  a  very  hard  cafe, 
and  certainly  may  be  faid  to  be  one  of  the  op- 
preilions  on  the  trade  of  Ireland,  which  a  legifla- 
ture,  acting  on  liberal  and  enlarged  principles, 
ought  to  repeal.  The  trade  of  fmoaking  her- 
rings, which  is  confiderable  in  England,  might 
be  carried  on  here,  to  much  greater  advantage, 
if  there  was  wood  to  do  it  with.  In  the  Ifle  of 
Man  they  have  fmoak  houfes,  fupplied  with 
wood  from  Wales  ;  it  is  a  ftrange  neglect,  that 
the  landlords  do  not  plant  fome  of  the  mon- 
ftrous  waftes  in  this  country  with  quick  grow- 
ing copfe  wood,  which  would,  in  five  or  fix 
years,  enable  them  to  begin  the  trade.     The 

plenty 


WHALE    FISHERY.        251 

plenty  of  cod  on  this  coaft  is  very  great,  quite 
from  Hornhead  to  Mount  Charles,  in  winter, 
when  the  herrings  fet  in,  and  may  then  be  ta- 
ken in  any  quantities.  Some  wherries  come 
for  cod,  ling,  glalTen,  &a  all  which  are  plenti- 
ful; but  on  the  banks  they  are  to  be  taken  in 
fummer,  and  in  the  winter  they  follow  the 
herrings. 

In  all  the  bays  on  the  coaft,  in  March  and 
April,  there  are  many  whales,  the  bone  fort-, 
they  appear  on  the  coaft  in  February,  and  go 
off  to  the  northward  the  beginning  of  May  -y 
fometimes  they  are  in  great  plenty,  and  in  No- 
vember to  February,  there  are  many  fpermaceti 
whales  ;  this  is  what  induced  Thomas  Nefbit, 
Efq;  of  Kilmacredon,  to  enter  into  a  fcheme 
for  eftablifhing  a  fifhery  on  the  coaft,  and  in  ex- 
ecuting it,  was  the  inventor  of  the  gun  har- 
poon. Mr.  Nefbit  firft  ufed  the  gun  harpoon, 
for  killing  whales,  in  the  year  1759;  he  was 
induced  to  try  this,  from  great  difficulties  he 
met  with  among  the  harpooners,  who  he  had 
engaged  for  the  fiihery ;  in  this  year  he  began 
"  it,  with  firing  lances  at  them,  after  they  were 
ft  ruck  by  the  hand,  in  order  to  kill  them  the 
fooner.  From  this  he  palled,  in  176 1,  to  firing 
the  harpoon  itfelf  from  the  gun.  He  was  then 
engaged  with  a  company,  for  the  purpofe  ot 
carrying  on  the  fifhery,  with  feveral  perfons  in 
Ireland,  England,  and  the  Weft-Indies.  In  the 
year  1758,  he  went  to  London,  and  bought  a 
vefltl  of  140  tons,  and  engaged  perfons  to 
come  over  as  harpooners.     In  1759,  one  whale 

was 


252         WHALE    FISHERY. 

ivas  caught  by  the  hand  harpoon.     In  1760, 
the   Greenland    harpooners,    Dutch,    Englifh, 
Scotch,  and  Danes,  were  at  it,  and  not  one  fifh 
taken.     This  year  there  were  feveral  Greenland 
fhips  on  the  coaft,  not  one  of  whom  caught  a 
fifh.     In  1761,  with  the  gun  harpoon,  killed 
three  whales,  and  got  them  all;  after  which  he 
every  year  killed  fome,  except  one  year,  when 
he  killed  42  fun  fifh  in  one  week,  each  of  which 
yielded  from  half  a  ton,  to  a  ton  of  oil.     Mr. 
Nefbit  has  fince  given  it  up,  not  from  want  of 
fuccefs  in  the  mode  of  taking  the  whales,  but 
from  being  put,  by  his  partners,  for  Want  of 
knowledge  in  the  bufinefs,  to  ufelefs  expenfes. 
From  many  experiments,  he  brought  the  opera- 
tion to  fuch  perfection,  that,   for  fome  years, 
he  never  miffed  a  whale,  nor  failed  of  holding 
her  by  the  harpoon:  he  had  for  fome  time  ill 
fuccefs,    from  firing   when  too  near,   for  the 
harpoon  does  not  then  fly  true,  but  at  14  or  1 5 
yards  diitance,  which  is  what  he  would  chute, 
it  flies  ftrait;  has  killed  feveral  at  25  yards. 

When  the  harpoon  is  fired  into  the  vyhale^ 
it  finks  to  the  bottom  with  great  velocity,  but 
immediately  comes  up,  and  lays  on  the  furface, 
lafliing  it  with  tail  and  fins  for  half  or  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  in  which  time  he  fires 
lances  into  it,  to  difpatch  it,  and  when  killed^ 
it  finks  for  48  hours,  where  he  leaves  a  boat, 
or  a  cafk,  as  a  buoy  to  mark  the  place.,  to  be 
ready  there  when  the  whale  rifes,  that  they 
may  tow  it  into  harbour,  according  as  the  wind 
lays.  To  carry  on  this  bufinefs  here,  he  knows 
from  experience,  that  nothing  more  would  be 

wanting, 


MOUNT    CHARLES.      255 

wanting,  than  a  {hip  of  130  tons,  with  loo 
tons  of  caik  :  three  boats,  with  each  8  men, 
fix  to  row,  one  to  (leer,  and  one  with  the  gun, 
with  ropes,  harpoon,  lances,  &c.  the  whole 
very  much  inferior  to  the  expenfe  of  equipping 
a  Greenlandman.  I  have  been  the  more  parti- 
cular in  giving  an  account  of  this  undertaking, 
becaufe  the  fociety  for  the  encouragement  of 
arts,  &c.  at  London,  has  long  lince  given  pre- 
miums for  the  invention  of  the  gun  harpoon, 
fuppofmg  it  to  be  original. 

In  refpect  to  the  linen  manufacture,  it  con- 
iifts  in  all  this  country  in  fpinning  yarn  only. 
Very  little  cloth  woven  here,  except  for  the 
ufe  of  the  people.  They  raife  flax  enough  for 
their  fpinning  in  years  when  feed  is  plentiful 
and  dry  feafons,  but  fome  are  fo  wet  as  almoft 
to  fpoil  the  crop :  all  the  women  and  children 
of  ten  years  old  and  upwards  fpin.  They  very 
feldom  let  the  feed  ripen  ^  they  have  tried  it 
but  found  it  did  not  anfwer  fo  well  as  foreign 
feed.  It  is  computed  that  there  are  two  fpin- 
ners  in  every  family,  who  fpin  about  one  hank 
a  day,  or  a  fpangle  and  a  half  a  week;  the 
medium  is  alb.  to  the  fpangle,  or  4  hanks, 
which  is  half  a  pound  of  flax  each  day.  A 
woman  will  earn,  by  fpinning,  according  to 
the  price  of  flax  and  yarn,  from  2d.  to  6d.  but 
in  general  2:d.  or  3d.  befides  doing  little  family 
trifles.     Mod  of  the  yarn  goes  to  Derry. 

The  foil  about  Mount  Charles  is  various ;  a 
great  deal  of  ft  iff  blue  clay,  which  is  perfectly 

tenacious 


254       MOUNT    CHARLES. 

tenacious  of  water.  Much  bog,  and  a  great 
range  of  high  mountains  near  it,  which  break 
the  clouds  with  a  wefterly  wind,  and  occafion 
much  rain.     Rents,  per  acre,  are  from  5s.  to 

1  os.  6d.  arable,  fome  up  to  il.  is.  waftes 
2s.  6d.  to  3s.  6d.  inclofed.  Mountains  pay 
fome  rent,  but  not  by  the  acre.  The  whole 
county  through  does  not  let  for  above  2s.  6d. 
There  are  very  great  extents  of  mountain  all 
the  way  from  Mount  Charles  to  Ards,  by  Loch 
Fin,  which  is  30  Irifh  miles  in  a  right  linej  it 
is  a  range  of  mountains,  but  moil  of  the  val- 
leys are  ilightly  cultivated,  though  corn  does 
very  bad  in  them  from  the  wetnefs  of  the  cli- 
mate The  farms  rife  from  5  or  6  acres  to  30 
cultivated ;  but  mountain  farms  are  more  ex- 
tent! ve.  Thecourfes:  1.  Potatoes,  manured 
for  with  dung,  or  by  the  coaft  with  fea  weed; 
get  good  crops,  and  from  the  fea  weed  rather 
better  than  from  dung.  2.  Barley,  if  the  land 
is  good.  3.  Oats.  4.  Lay  out  for  grafs ;  very 
few  low  grafs  feeds  2  or  3  years. 

1.  Potatoes.     2.  Oats.     3.  Lay  out  for  grafs 

2  or  3  years. 

Upon  dry  land  they  ufe  lime,  which  is  fold 
at  6d.  to  8d.  the  barrel  of  28  gallons,  or  3 
bufhels  and  a  half,  but  generally  burn  it  them- 
felves.  There  is  lime-ftone  at  St.  John's  Point, 
and  other  parts  towards  Killibegs,  and  beyond 
it  to  the  weftward.  They  burn  it  with  turf, 
which  is  plentiful  every  where.  They  have 
grey  marie  at  Donnegal,  and  find  a  good  effect 

from 


MOUNT    CHARLES.       2$$ 

from  the  ufe  of  it.     Upon  the  dry  mountains 
they  have  flocks  of  fheep,   not  large  ones ;  but 
every  poor  man  keeps   fome,  the  wool  their 
profit,  and  fell  them  at  2  or  3  years  old.    In 
flocking  a  farm  they  look  not  farther  than  hav- 
ing the  horfes  and  cows.    Land  fells  at  2 1  or 
22  years  purchafe,  rack   rent ;    it  fold  better 
from  1762  to   1768,  and  the  rents  are  fallen. 
For  two  years  they  have  been  at  a  ftand ;  but 
the  fall  has  not  been  felt  near  the  coaft,  the 
herring  fiihery  keeping  them  up.    The  farmers 
here  in  general  pay  half  a  year's  rent  with  fifh, 
and  half  with  yarn.     Tythes  are    generally 
compounded  in  the   grofs.    The  middle  men 
were  common,  but  not  now.     The  poor  peo- 
ple live  upon  potatoes  and  herrings  9  months 
in  the  year  along  the  coaft,  and  upon  oat  bread 
and  milk  the  other  three.     Very  little  butter, 
and  fcarce  any  meat.     They  all  keep   cows, 
moft  of  them  a  pig  or  two,    and  a  few  hens, 
and  all  a  cat  or  a   dog.    No  tea.    They  are  in 
general  circumftances  not  improved.    Rent  of 
a  cabbin,  with  a  garden  and  a  cow's  grafs,  20 
to  30s. 

A  farm  of  20  acres. 
ik  Potatoes.  1.  Flax.  5.  Oats.  1.  Bar- 
ley. 2.  Mowing  ground.  93.  Feeding.  Rent 
iol.  Six  cows,  2  horfes,  6  fheep,  2  pigs.  Peo- 
ple increafe.  But  little  emigration.  Religion 
more  than  half  catholic.  Rife  in  the  price  of 
labour  id.  a  day  in  20  years;  and  in  provifi- 
ons,  one  third  'in  that  time.  The  following 
is  a  return  of  population,  procured  by  Colonel 
Burton's  orders,  on  a  part  of  Lord  Conyng- 
ham's  eftates. 

Manor 


5tc;6        MOUNT     CHARLES. 


- 
- 


60 1  '521  322 

699 

367  320  2 

282 


^  5.1  £ 

-  1  - 

1 


147s 127 


104; 


4-5 


105  3154  r  138 


*2 


3S87 
2065 

1460 


737 


302 


* 


JiS° 


763 


Marios  of  Mount 
Charles. 

County  of  Don- 
negal  1  5,000  a- 
cres. 

Manor  of  Mag! 
eryrnore,,   ditto 
■county. 

Particulars    of 
part  of  Magh- 
erymore. 

Manor  of  Shana 
Golden  coun- 
ty of  Limerick, 
4,500  acres 

Cars  generally  Hiding  ones,  on  account  of 
the  hills. 

Expenfe  of  building  a  mud  cabbin  3I.  of 
flone  and  (late  40I.  In  different  places  in 
Lord  Conyngham'seftate  in  Boylagh  are  many 
lead  mines  mixed  with  filver,  none  of  them 
wrought  j  miners  who  have  examined  them 
fay  .there  is  much  filver  in  the  ore.  The  lead 
is  apparent  in  many  breaches  of  the  rocks, 

Auguil:  1  ith,  left  Mount  Charles,  and  paf- 
fmg  through  Donnegal,  took  the  road  to  Bal- 
lyfhannon  ;  came  prefently  to  feveral  beautiful 
Jandfcapes,  f welling  hills,  cultivated  with  the 
bay  flowing  up  among  them  :  they  want  no- 
thing but  more  wood,  and  are  beautiful  with- 
out it.  Afterwards  Iikewife  to  the  left,  they 
rife  in  various  outlines,  and  die  away  infenfi- 

bly 


BALLYSHANNON.       257 

Wy  into  one  another.  When  the  road  leads  to 
a  full  view  of  the  bay  of  Donnegal,  thefe 
fouling  fpots,  above  which  the  proud  moun- 
tains rear  their  heads,  are  numerous,  the  hil- 
locks of  almoft  regular  circular  fo  ms;  they  are 
very  pleafing,  from  form,  verdure,  and  the  wa- 
ter breaking  in  their  vales. 

Before  I  got  to  Ballyfhannon,  remarked  a 
bleach  green,  which  indicates  weaving  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Viewed  the  falmon-leap  at 
Ballyfnannon,  which  is  let  for  400I.  a  year. 
The  fcenery  of  it  is  very  beautiful*  it  is  a  fins 
fall,  and  the  coaft  of  the  river  very  bold,  con- 
firming of  perpendicular  rocks,  with  grafs  of  a 
beautiful  verdure  to  the  very  edge:  it  projects 
in  little  promontories,  which  grow  longer  as 
they  approach  the  fea,  and  open  to  give  a  fine 
view  of  the  ocean.  Before  the  fall  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river  is  a  rocky  iiland,  on  which  is  a 
curing  houfe,  inftead  of  the  turret  of  a  ruined 
cattle',  for  which  it  feems  formed.  The  town 
prettily  fituated  on  the  rifing  ground  on  each 

fide  the  river. To  Sir  James  Caldwell's ; 

croffing  the  bridge,  flopped  for  a  view  of  the 
river,  which  is  a  very  fine  one,  and  was  de- 
lighted to  fee  the  falmon  jump,  to  me  an  unu- 
fual  fight  :  the  water  was  perfectly  alive  with 
them.  Rifing  the  hill,  look  back  on  the  town; 
the  fituation "beautiful  ;  the  river  prefents  a 
noble  view.  Come  to  Belleek,  a  little  village, 
with  one  of  the  fineft  waterfalls  I  remember 
any  where  to  have  feen  •  viewed  it  from  the 
bridge.     The  river  in  a  very  broad  fheet  comes 

Vol.  I.  S  from 


258     CASTLE   CALDWELL. 

from  behind  fome  wood,  and  breaks  over  a  bed 
of  rocks,  not  perpendicular  but  {helving,  in 
various  directions,  and  foams  away  under  the 
arches;  after  wThich  it  grows  more  filent,  and 
gives  a  beautiful  bend  under  a  rock,  crowned 
by  a  fine  bank  of  wood.  Reached  Cattle  Cald- 
well at  night,  where  Sir  James  Caldwell  re- 
ceived me  with  a  politenefs  and  cordiality  that 
will  make  me  long  remember  it  with  pleafure. 

Auguft  1 2th.  The  following  account  of  the 
hufbandry  around  Caftle  Caldwell,  Sir  James 
favoured  me  with.  The  foil  in  the  vale  to  Bel- 
leek  is  a  yellow  clay,  1  to  2  fpit  deep  on  a  lime- 
ftone  rock;  the  whole  interfperfed  with  bog 
and  morafs.  Large  tracts  uncultivated.  Rents 
vary  from  15s.  to  20s.  an  acre  cultivated,  but 
mountain  and  mountain  fides  are  not  meafured; 
wherever  the  plough  goes,  will  yield  7s.  at  the 
lowefl.  In  the  mountains  they  pay  but  3s.  for 
the  fummer  food  of  a  cow;  and  for  a  horfe 
4s.  6d.  The  county  of  Fermanagh  may  be  di- 
vided into  6  parts;  one-fixth  the  lake  at  no 
rent.  Mountains  and  bogs  two-fixths,  the  reft 
of  the  county  at  12s. 

The  courfe  of  crops  is;  1.  Potatoes.  2.  Po- 
tatoes. 3.  Barley  or  flax.  4.  Oats.  5.  Oats. 
6.  Oats.  7.  Lay  out  for  grafs.  Wherever  there 
are  fpots  of  meadow,  they  are  mown.  Great 
numbers  of  farms  are  taken  in  partnership  in 
Rundale  ;  indeed  the  general  courfe  is  fo,  upon 
a  farm  of  100  acres,  there  will  be  4,  5,  or  6 
families  :  but  families  will  take  fuch  fmall  fpots 
as  5  or  6  acres.     Farms  in  general  rife  from  5 

acres 


CASTLE    CALDWELL.     259 

acres  to  3  or  400 ;  but  all  the  large  ones  are 
ftock  farms ;  in  general  none  To  high  as  twenty : 
all  in  Rundale,  partnership  or  ftock.  Many  of 
the  latter  part  mountain,  part  arable,  andthefe 
are  the  only  farms  of  fubftance  in  the  country. 
One  of  8oi.  a  year  will  require  4  or  500I.  to 
ftock  it.  Thefe  farmers  buy  year  olds — for  in- 
stance, 20;  he  buys  in  20  year  olds  every  year, 
and  every  year  fells  20  four  year  olds:  he  gives 
30s.  each,  and  fells  at  5I.  10s.  or  61.  and  this  he 
reckons  a  reafonable  profit.  Alfo  3  and  2  year 
old  heifers  that  have  miffed  the  bull,  keep  them 
through  the  winter,  and  fell  them  in  May,  and 
get  1 8s.  to  20s.  for  wintering  them  on  coarfe 
grafs  without  any  fodder.  In  fumrner  they  feed 
them  all  on  mountains.  Thofe  who  buy  the 
mift  heifers  are  farmers  in  Monaghan  and  Ca- 
van,  on  coarfe  farms,  who  turn  them  on  the 
mountains,  give  them  the  bull,  and  fell  them 
out  in  the  fpring  to  the  weaving  farmers  in  the 
linen  country,  who  change  their  ftock. 

The  meafures  here  are  by  pecks  and  barrels; 
the  weight  of  the  peck  of  potatoes  in  Bally- 
fhannon  is  5  ftone,  41b.  and  10  pecks,  make  a 
barrel :  in  the  country  they  give  6  ftoncs.  The 
acre  the  plantation  meafure.  Of  potatoes,  which 
they  fet  all  in  the  trenching  way,  they  plant  4 
barrels  an  acre,  and  get  on  an  average  7  or  8 
for  one,  that  is,  32  barrels  an  acre.  The  price 
is  8s.  a  barrel  on  a  medium,  or  1  2I.  1 6s.  an  acre; 
but  it  is  obvious  that  this  peck  is  a  meafure  of 
their  own.  They  manure  generally  for  them 
writh  dung;  but  often  with  lime  and  bog  mud 
mixed,  and  burnt  clay,  which  they  find  does 

S  2  very 


26o    CASTLE   CALDWELL. 

very  well.  In  the  county  of  Tyrone,  towards 
Armagh  and  Dungannon,  they  will  bring  lime- 
ftone  14  or  15  miles,  burn  it,  and  fprinkle  their 
potatoe  land  with  it  to  prevent  the  black  rot. 
Rent  of  Tyrone  on  an  average  7s. 

Of  barley  they  fow  20  Hone ;  the  barrel  of 
barley  is  25  (tone,  and  of  malt  20.  An  acre  on 
an  average  will  yield  10  barrels  at  16  ftone.  Of 
oats  they  fow  a  barrel,  at  20  (lone,  and  get  8  for 
one.  Of  bere  they  fow  the  fame,  and  get  9 
barrels;  barley  fells  better  than  bere  generally  ; 
for  flax  tfyey  plough  once  on  potatoe  land.  The 
expenfe  of  an  acre  they  reckon, 

Rent               -               -               -  o  15     o 

County  cefs            -           -             -  -003 

Tythe  modus               -               -  -008 

Seed,  40  gallons,  at  is.  6d.            -  -300 

One  ploughing               -               -  o     5     5 

Clodding  and  ftones  4  women          -  -         014 

Weeding  6  women                -           -  -020 

Pulling  12  women  a  day               *  -040 

Watering  3  men  and  I  horfe          -  -         026 

Grafling  6  women           -            -  -020 
Lifting  and  carrying,  2  women  and  2  men, 

and  1  horie               -             -  -026 

Drying,  2  women  and  12  load  turf  018 

Beetling,  24  women                  -  -         o  16     o 

Scutching  id.  a  lb.  ■ 

jC-5  l3    4 

Price  of  lime  at  the  kiln  6d.  a  barrel.  Sir 
James  Caldwell  has  his  ftone  quarried,  carried, 
broke  and  burnt,  and  drawn  too  yards,  for  4d. 
a  barrel  labour;  fix  fcore  horfe  loads  of  turf  coft 
4s.  cutting  and  fawing,  and  leading  by  water, 

cofts 


CASTLE    CALDWELL.    261 

cofts  5s.  more,  which  6  fcore  loads  will  burn 
at  the  rate  of  a  load  and  a  half  a  barrel.  They 
plough  all  with  horfes,  2  or  3  horfes  abreaft. 

Land  fells,  at  rack  rent,  at  20  to  24  years 
purchafe:  has  not  fallen.  Rents  are  fallen  in 
5  or  6  years  2s.  an  acre.  There  is  a  great  deal 
of  letting  lands  in  the  grofs  to  middle  men,  who 
re-let  it  to  others  -,  thefe  middle  men  are  called 
terny  begs,  or  little  landlords,  which  prevail  very 
much  at  prefent.  Thefe  men  make  a  great  pro- 
fit by  this  practice.  The  people  in  all  the  neigh- 
bourhood increafe  very  faft.  They  are  all  in 
general  much  more  induitrious,  and  in  better 
circumftances  than  they  were  fome  years  ago. 
Their  food,  for  three-fourths  of  the  year, 
chiefly  potatoes  and  milk,  and  the  other  quarter 
oatmeal :  in  the  winter  they  have  herrings. 
They  have  all  a  bellyful  of  food  whatever  it 
is,  as  they  told  me  themfelves ;  and  their  chil- 
dren eat  potatoes  all  daydong,  even  thofe  of 
a  year  old  will  be  roaiting  them.  All  keep  cows, 
and  fome  cocks  and  hens,  but  no  turkeys  or 
geefe.  Six  people,  a  man,  his  wife  and  4  chil- 
dren, will  eat  1 8  (lone  of  potatoes  a  week,  or 
2521b.  but  4olb.  of  oatmeal  will  ferve  them. 
Rent  of  a  cabbin,  garden,  and  one  acre,  20s.  a 
cow's  grafs  30s.  a  cow  requires  one  acre  and  a 
half  for  fummer  -,  and  they  buy  a  little  hay  for 
winter,  and  give  the  cow  fmall  potatoes  and 
cabbage-leaves,  &c. 

The  common  people  are  remarkably  given  to 
thieving,  particularly  grafs,  timber,  and  turf, 
and  they  bring  up  their  children  to  hoking  po- 
tatoes, that  is,  artfully  raifing  them,  taking  out 

the 


262    CASTLE    CALDWELL. 

the  beft  roots,  and  then  replanting  them,  fo 
that  the  owner  is  perfectly  deceived  when  he 
takes  up  the  crop.  A  poor  man's  turf  from  I  5s. 
to  20s.  Living  is  exceedingly  cheap  here,  be- 
fides  the  common  provilions,  which  I  have  eve- 
ry where  regiftered,  wild  ducks  are  only  3d. 
and  powder  and  {hot:  Piover,  i^d.  and  ditto: 
woodcocks,  id.  andditto:  Snipes,  1  Ad.  and  dit- 
to ;  teal,  2d.  and  ditto,  and  widgeon  the  fame; 
falmon,  lid.  a  lb.  trout,  perch,  pike,  and  bream, 
fo  plentiful  as  to  have  no  price.  Sir  James  Cald- 
well has  taken  1 7  cwt.  of  fifh,  bream  and  pike, 
in  one  day  :  cod,  3s.  a  dozen:  whiting,  from  8d. 
to  is.  a  dozen:  herrings,  from  3d.  to  gd.  per  100. 
lobfters,  from  3s.  6d.  to  4s.  a  dozen :  oyfters,  6d. 
to2od.aioo.  eels,  2s.  a  dozen:  crabs,  is.  to  2s. 
a  dozen :  wages,  61.  dairy-maids,  and  others, 
4I.  There  is  very  little  weaving  in  this  coun- 
try, except  what  is  for  their  own  ufe,  but  fpin- 
ning  is  univerfal  in  all  the  cabbins.  They  re- 
ceive for  fpinning  fpangle  yarn,  or  four  hanks, 
is.  2d.  a  fpangle,  and  they  will  fpin  it  in  four 
days.  Country  fervants  are  hired  at  3I.  a  year, 
who  engage  to  do  the  work  of  the  houfe,  and 
fpin  a  hank,  that  is  a  dozen  a  day,  there  are  1 2 
cats  to  the  dozen. 

In  the  mountain  tracls,  the  rents  are  paid  by 
yarn,  young  cattle,  and  a  little  butter.  They 
fpin  a  good  deal  of  wool,  which  they  make  into 
druggets,  the  warp  of  tow-yarn,  and  the  weft 
of  wool.  The  following  paiticularsof  34  of  Sir 
James's  labourers  will  {hew  the  ftate  of  the  poor 
•  in  this  neighbourhood,  refpeclin^  their  flock, 
potatoe  land,  and  quantity  of  flax  feed  fown: 

No. 


CASTLE    CALDWELL.    263 

No. 


Rent. 

Cows. 

Souls. 

Po. 

Flax  Galls, 

I 

3 

17 

6 

7 

4 

1 

4- 

6 

2 

6 

0 

0 

6 

6 

1 

7 

6 

3 

3 

7 

6 

7 

6 

1 
3 

6 

4 

2 

0 

0 

3 

5 

1 
5 

3* 

5 

2 

8 

9 

2 

7 

1 
5 

5 

6 

3 

0 

0 

5 

7 

1 

7 

7 

1 

10 

0 

0 

6 

1 

7 

8 

2 

5 

0 

2 

8 

1 
a 

3 

9 

4 

0 

0 

3 

10 

6 

10 

4 

0 

0 

4 

6 

1 
3 

0 

11 

1 

8- 

0 

4 

6 

1 

6 

12 

3 

'5 

0 

6 

5 

z 
3 

3 

>3 

1 

8 

0 

4 

5 

1 
3 

6 

H 

1 

8 

0 

4 

6 

1 
? 

6 

15 

2 

10 

0 

5 

9 

1 

-* 

6 

16 

2 

16 

8 

6 

9 

1 
2 

7 

«7 

2 

0 

0 

1 

6 

*R 

4 

18 

3 

8 

3 

2 

8 

1 

4 

19 

3 

15 

6 

3 

9 

* 

7 

20 

5 

16 

3 

4 

6 

2 

4 

21 

1 

5 

0 

3 

4 

5 

22 

2 

2 

0 

3 

3 

X 

A- 

4 

23 

3 

15 

0 

2 

4 

1 

8 

24 

1 

•7 

0 

3 

4 

1 
4- 

3 

25 

1 

8 

6 

2 

3 

I 

5 

26 

1 

1 

0 

2 

6 

I 
5 

ii 

27 

3 

10 

0 

3 

7 

1 

a" 

10 

28 

3 

0 

0 

3 

7 

■ 

0 

29 

1 

8 

0 

3 

2 

3 

3° 

i 

10 

0 

3 

6 

"  t 

1 

3' 

1 

1 1 

0 

3 

4 

X 

0 

32 

'  3 

D 

0 

4 

8 

1 

7 

33 

3 

O 

0 

5 

4 

1 
2 

7 

34 

5 

2 

6 

4 

5 

1 
■3" 

4 

Totals       ' 121        204  = 


Average r 3}    =     6 


Nothing  can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  ap- 
proach to  Caftle  Caldwell ;  the  promontories  of 
thick  wood,  which  (hoot  into  Loch  Earne,  un- 
der the  fhade  of  a  great  ridge  of  mountains,  have 
the  fineft  effect  imaginable  :  as  foon  as  you  are 

through 


264    CASTLE    CALDWELL. 

through  the  gates,  turn  to  the  left,  about  200 
yards  to  the  edge  of  the  hill,  where'  the  whole 
domain  lies  beneath  the  point  of  view,  it  is  a 
promontory,  three  miles  long,  projecting  into 
the  lake,  a  beautiful  aifemblage  of  wood  and 
lawn,  one  end  a  thick  (hade,  the  other  grafs, 
fcattered  with  trees,  and  finishing  with  wood. 
A  bay  of  the  lake  breaks  into  the  eaftern  end, 
where  it  is  perfectly  wooded  :  there  are  fix  or 
feven  iflands  among  them,  (that  of  Bow  three 
mijes  long,  and  one  and  a  half  broad)  yet  they 
leave  a  noble  fweep  of  water,  bounded  by  the 
great  range  of  the  Turaw  mountains.  To  the 
right,  the  lake  takes  the  appearance  of  a  fine 
river,  with  two  large  iilands  in  it,  the  whole 
unites  to  form  one  of  the  mod  glorious  fcenes 
I  ever  beheld.  Rode  to  the  little  hill  above 
Michael  Macgu ire's  cabbing  here  the  two  great 
promontories  of  wood  join  in  one,  but  open  in 
the  middle,  and  give  a  view  of  the  lake,  quite 
funounded  with  wood,  as  if  a  diftincl  water; 
beyond  are  the  iilands,  fcattered  over  its  face, 
nor  can  any  thing  be  more  pi&urefque  than 
the  bright  filver  furface  of  the  water  breaking 
through  the  dark  (hades  of  wood.  Around  the 
point  on  which  we  Hood,  the  ground  is  rough 
and  rocky,  wild,  and  various,  forming  no  bad 
contrail  to  the  brilliant  fcenery  in  view.  Crof- 
fing  fome  of  this  undreffed  ground,  we  came 
to  a  point  of  a  hill,  above  Paddy  Macguire's 
cabbin;  here  the  lake  prefents  great  fheets  of 
water,  breaking  beyond  the  wToody  promonto- 
ries and  iflands,  in  the  mod  beautiful  manner. 
At  the  bottom  of  the  declivity,  at  your  feet, 
is  a  creek,  and  beyond  it  the  lands  of  the  do- 
main, 


CASTLE    CALDWELL.     265 

main,  fcattered  with  noble  woods,  that  rife 
immediately  from  the  water's  edge ;  the  houfe, 
almoft  obfeured  among  the  trees,  feems  a  fit 
retreat  from  every  care  and  anxiety  of  the 
world  :  a  little  beyond  it  the  lawn,  which  is  in 
front,  fhews  its  lively  green  among  the  deeper 
fhades,  and  over  the  neck  of  land,  which  joins 
it  to  the  promontory  of  wood,  called  Rojs  a 
goal,  the- lake  feems  to  form  a  beautiful  wood- 
lock'd  bafon,  frretching  its  filver  furface  behind 
the  Hems  of  the  {ingle  trees;  beyond  the  whole, 
the  mountainy  rocks  of  Turaw,  give  a  magni- 
ficent finifhing.  Near  you,  on  every  iide,  is 
w7ild  toffed-about  ground,  which  adds  very 
much  to  the  variety  of  the  fcene.  From  hence 
we  pafTed  to  the  hill  in  the  mountain  park, 
from  whence  the  fcenery  is  different;  here  you 
fee  a  {hort  promontory  of  wood,  which  projects 
into  a  bay,  formed  by  two  others,  confiderably 
more  extenfive,  that  is  Rojs  a  gold  and  Rofsmoor 
eafi.  The  lake  {ketch ing  away  in  vait  reaches, 
and  between  numerous  iflands,  almoft  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  command.  In  the  great  creek,  to 
the  right,  which  flows  up  under  the  mountain 
of  Turaw,  are  two  beautiful  iflands,  which, 
with  the  promontories,  fcattered  with  trees, 
give  it  the  moft  agreeable  variety. 

In  another  ride,  Sir  James  gave  me  a  view 
of  that  part  of  his  domain  which  forms  the  pro- 
montory of  Rofs  moor;  coaffed  it,  and  croffed 
the  hills  :  nothing  can  exhibit  fcenes  of  greater 
variety  or  more  beauty.  The  iflands  on  every 
fide  are  of  a  different  character ;   fome  are 

knots 


q.66    CASTLE     CALDWELL. 

knots  or  tufts  of  wood,  others  fhrubby.  Here 
are  fingle  rocks,  and  there  fine  hills  of  lawn, 
which  rife  boldly  from  the  water ;  the  promon- 
tories form  equal  diftinclions;  fome  are  of  thick 
woods,  which  yield  the  darkeft  fhade,  others 
open  groves,  but  every  where  the  coaft  is  high, 
and  yields  pleafing  landfcapes.  From  the  eaft 
point  of  Rofs  moor,  the  fcenery  is  truly  delici- 
ous. The  point  of  view  is  a  high  promontory 
of  wood,  lawn,  &c.  which  projects  fo  far  into 
the  lake  as  to  give  a  double  view  of  it  of  great 
extent.  You  look  down  a  declivity  on  the 
lake  which  flows  at  your  feet,  and  full  in  front 
is  the  wood  of  Rofs  agouU  at  the  extreme  point 
of  which  is  the  temple:  this  wood  is  perfectly 
a  deep  fhade,  and  has  an  admirable  effect.  At 
the  other  end  it  joins  another  woody  promon- 
tory, in  which  the  lawn  opens  beautifully  a^- 
mong  the  fcattered  trees,  and  juft  admits  a  par- 
tial view  of  the  houfe  half  obicured-,  carrying 
your  eye  a  little  more  to  the  left,  you  fee  three 
other  necks  of  wood,  which  ftretch  into  the 
lake,  generally  giving  a  deep  fhade,  but  here 
and  there  admitting  the  water  behind  the  ftems 
and  through  the  branches  of  the  trees  -,  all  this 
bounded  by  cultivated  hills,  and  thofe  backed 
by  diftant  mountains.  Here  are  no  objects 
which  you  do  not  command  diftinctly:  none 
that  do  not  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  fcene,  and 
the  whole  forming  a  landfcape  rich  in  the  af- 
femblage  of  a  variety  of  beauties.  The  other 
reach  of  the  lake  varying  under  Rofs  moor  is 
a  different  fcene,  bounded  by  the  mountains 

and 


CASTLE    CALDWELL.     267 

and  rocks  of  Turaw :  to  the  right  thefe  reaches 
join  the  lake,  which  opens  a  fine  expanfe  of 
water  fpotted  with  iflands.  It  is  upon  the 
wrhole  a  fcene  ftrikingly  agreeable.  Little  of 
the  fublime,  but  the  very  range  of  beauty,  gai- 
ety, and  pleafure,  are  the  characters  of  the 
fpot  j  nature  makes  no  efforts  here  but  thofe 
to  pleafe  ;  the  parts  are  of  extreme  varieties, 
yet  in  perfect  unifon  with  each  other.  Even 
the  rocks  of  Turaw  have  a  mildnefs  in  their 
afpect,  and  do  not  break  the  general  effect  by 
abrupt  or  rugged  projections.  It  was  with  re- 
gret I  turned  my  back  on  this  charming  fcene, 
the  moft  beautiful  at  Caftle  Caldwell,  and  the 
moft  pleafing  I  have  any  where  feen.  Rode 
round  Rofs  a  goul,  the  promontory  in  front  of 
the  houfe,  from  which  the  views  are  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  commanding  a  noble  hanging 
wood  on  the  banks  of  Rofs  moor,  and  the 
woody  necks  that  ftretch  from  the  land  beyond 
the  houfe,  with  feveral  iilands,  which  give  the 
greateft  variety  to  the  fcene.  On  the  point, 
Sir  James  has  built  an  Octagon  temple,  which 
takes  in  feveral  views  that  are  exceedingly 
pleafing ;  this  neck  of  land  is  a  wood  of  40 
acres,  and  a  more  agreeable  circumftance  fo 
near  a  manfion  can  fcarcely  be  imagined. 

Take  my  leave  of  Caftle  Caldwell,  and  with 
colours  flying,  and  his  band  of  mufic  playing, 
go  on  board  his  fix-oared  barge  for  Ennifkillen; 
the  heavens  were  favourable,  and  a  clear  fky 
and  bright  fun,  gave  me  the  beauties  of  the 
lake  in  all  their  fplendor.     Pafs  the  fcenes  [ 

have 


268         LOCH     E  A  R  N  E. 

have  defcribed,  which  from  the  boat  take  a 
frefh  variety,  and  in  all  pleafing. 

Eagle  ifland  firft  faiutes  us,  a  woody  knole. 
Others  pafs  in  review ;  among  the  reft  Herring 
ifland,  noted  for  the  wreck  of  a  herring-boat, 
and  the  drowning  of  afidlerj  but  the  boat- 
men love  herrings  better  than  mufic,  and  gave 
their  name  to  the  ille,  rather  than  that  of  the 
ion  of  Apollo.  Innifnakill  is  all  wood.  Rab- 
bit iiland  is  40  acres  of  pafture,  which  rifes 
bold  from  the  water.  Innifmac  Saint  alfo  40 
acres  of  grafs.  Then  comes  a  clufter  of  woody 
iflands,  which  rife  in  perfect  hills  from  the  wa- 
ters edge,  the  wood  dipping  in  the  lake,  and 
they  are  fo  numerous  that  the  lake  is  cut  by 
them  into  winding  ftraits,  more  beautiful  than 
can  be  thought.  The  reader  may  imagine  how 
exquifite  the  view  muft  be,  of  numerous  hills 
of  dark  and  complete  wood,  which  rife  boldly 
from  fo  noble  a  meet  of  water :  they  form  a 
moft  fingular  fcene.  Wherever- the  more  is 
feen,  it  is  riling  lands  ;  in  fome  places  woods, 
in  others  cultivated  hills.  Pailing  thefe  fylvan 
glories,  we  come  next  to  the  Gully  iiland,  all 
of  wood,  and  is  100  acres:  much  of  it  is  bold 
riling  land,  and  the  oak  dips  in  the  water. 
What  a  fpot  to  build  on,  and  form  a  retreat 
from  the  bufinefs  and  anxiety  of  the  world ! 
Nature  here  is  blooming.  It  is  in  the  midft  of 
a  region  where  one  would  think  me  has  almoft 
exhaufted  herft  if  in  producing  fcenes  of  rural 
elegance.  It  belongs  to  Lord  Ely ;.  I  envy  him 
the  poifeiricn.     The  only    thing  it  yields  its 

owner 


LOCH     EARNE.         269 

owner  is  a  periodical  profit  from  cutting  its 
beautiful  woods.  Shelter,  profped,  wood  and 
water,  are  here  in  perfection ;  what  more  can 
be  wifhed  for  in  a. retreat,  if  an  unambitious 
mind  gilds  the  fcene  with  what  neither  wood 
nor  water  can  give — content  ?  The  facrilesi- 
ous  axe  has  defolated  three  parts  in  four  of  its 
noble  covering  ;  and  it  will  be  1  5  years  before 
the  rough  ground  and  naked  flubs  are  again 
cloathed. 

Pafs  the  hanging  grounds  of  Caftle  Hume; 
fome  of  them  very  beautifully  crowned  with 
wood,  and  the  oppofite  coaft  of  the  lake,  wood 
and  cultivation.  Car  and  Ferny  iflands  bold 
lands  cut  into  fields  of  corn  give  a  frefh  vari- 
ety, and  the  woods  of  Caftle  Hume  furround  a 
bay  to  the  right,  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  the 
Cattle  half  hidden  with  trees.  It  opens,  how- 
ever, to  the  view  foon  after,  and  accompanied 
on  each  fide  by  a  fine  wood,  and  the  furround- 
ing  ground  various.  The  lake  then  takes  the 
form  of  a  bay,  between  fome  pretty  cultivated 
Hopes  on  one  fide,  and  Devenifh  iiland  on  the 
other,  with  its  tower  full  in  view.  Advancing:, 
the  coaft  on  the  right  confifts  of  beautiful  cul- 
tivated hills,  divided  into  inclofures  by  hedg- 
es, and  the  waving  hills  rifing  one  beyond  ano- 
ther in  a  various  and  pleafing  manner;  the 
oppofite  fhore  is  the  fame,  but  the  view  more 
diftant.  The  iiland  of  Devenifh  is  part  of  it 
very  rich  land;  the  poor  people  pay  5I.  an  acre 
for  the  old  grafs  for  one  crop  of  potatoes. 
About  Ballyfhannon,  it  is  3I.  or  4I.  per  acre. 

The 


270      ENNISKILLEN. 

The  barley  on  the  ifland  after  the  potatoes  is 
exceedingly  fine.  When  you  come  abrealt  of 
the  round  tower,  look  backwards,  to  the  right 
the  fcenery  is  very  beautiful,  the  wood  at  the 
extremity,  the  waving  hills  under  grafs  and 
corn,  which  fpread  over  this  whole  coaft,  form 
alfo  the  fcenery  in  front,  and  unite  with  the 
lake  to  make  a  moft  pleafing  landfcape.  Landed 
at  Ennilkillen,  and  that  evening  reached  Caftle 
Cool,  the  feat  of  A.  Lowry  Corry,  Efq;  who 
was  abfent  in  the  county  of  Tyrone,  but  Mrs. 
Corry  was  fo  obliging  as  to  procure  me  the  in- 
formation I  wifhed. 

Auguft  1 5th,  rode  to  the  Topped  Mountain, 
from  whence  is  an  immenfe  profpect  of  many 
counties,  and  commanding  Loch  Earne  from 
one  end  to  the  other,  being  above  40  miles 
long ;  the  great  fheet  is  towards  Caftle  Cald- 
well, that  to  Belturbet  is  fo  thickly  ftrewed 
with  iflands,  that  the  water  has  more  the  ap- 
pearance of  feveral  wToods.  Around  Ennifkill- 
en,  &c.  land  lets  on  an  average  at  10s.  to  12s. 
an  acre  that  is  cultivated,  but  there  is  fome 
mountain  and  bog  that  lets  for  little  or  nothing. 
Farms  are  various,  many  fmall  ones  of  a  few 
acres,  but  the  moft  common  fize  is  40  to  70 
acres,  with  fome  large  flock  ones  of  2  or  300I. 
a  year :  the  foil  is  principally  a  wet  tenacious 
clay.  The  fyflem  of  thefe  flock  farms  is,  to 
keep  cattle  of  various  ages,  from  year-olds  to 
fat  ones  of  5  years,  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  land :  they  keep  but  few  fheep.  Weav- 
ing is  but  juft  coming  in,  but  increafes  much  ; 

the 


B   E    L    L   E    I    S    L    E.       271 

the  fpinning  is  common  all  over  the  county  in 
every  cabbin,  by  the  women  and  girls :  they 
do  not  quite  raife  flax  enough  to  fupply  their 
own  demand. 

The  courfe  of  crops  moft  general  is,  1.  Po- 
tatoes. 2.  Barley.  3.  Oats.  4.  Flax.  5. 
Laid  out  for  grafs.  Farms  very  much  ta- 
ken in  the  rundale  way  by  partnership. 

The  people  increafe  very  faft  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  are  in  better  circumftances  than 
they  were  fome  years  ago.     Some  live  on  pota- 
toes and  milk,    for  all  keep  cows,  and  they 
eat  fome  flefh  meat.     The  number  of  little 
farmers  who  are  fupported  by  their  farms  alone 
is  confiderable,  from  whence   it  is  plain  that 
linen  has  not  taken  deep  root.     There  are  two 
bleach  greens  within  7  miles,  and  all  they  bleach 
is  made  in  the  country.     A  woman  will  earn 
4d.  a  day  by  fpinning,  and  do  fomething  in  the 
family  befides.     The  manure  principally  ufed 
is  lime,  which  on  an  average-cofts  them  about 
Sd.  a  barrel,  and  they  lay  80  and  upwards  per 
acre. 

Auguft  15th,  to  Belleille,  the  charming  feat 
of  the  Earl  of  Rofs.  It  is  an  ifland  in  Loch 
Earne  of  200  Iriih  acres,  every  part  of  it  hill, 
dale,  and  gentle  declivities :  it  has  a  great,  deal 
of  wood,  much  of  which  is  old,  and  forms 
both  deep  fhades,  and  open  chearful  groves. 
The  trees  hang  on  the  ilopes,  and  confequently 
(hew  themfclves  to  the   befl  advantage.     All 

this 


272       B    E    L    L    E    I    S    L    E. 

this  is  exceedingly  pretty,  but   it  is    rendered 
trebly  fo  by  the  fituation :  a  reach  of  the  lake 
paffes  before  the  houfe,  which  is  fituated  near 
the  banks  among  fome  fine  woods,  which  give 
both  beauty  and  fhelter.     This  fheet  of  water, 
which  is  three  miles  over,  is  bounded  in  front 
by  an  ifland  of  thick  wood;  and  by  a  bold  cir- 
cular hill,  which  is  his  Lordfhip's  deer  park,  this 
hill  is  backed  by  a  confiderabie  mountain.    To 
the  right  are  four  or  five  fine  clumps  of  dark 
wood ;  fo  many  iflands  which  rife  boldly  from 
the  lake,  the  water  breaks   in  ftraits  between 
them,  and  forms  a^cene  extremely  pidurefque. 
On  the  other  fide  the  lake   ftretches  behind 
wood,  in  a  ftreight  which  forms  Belleifle.  Lord 
Rofs  has  made  walks  round  the  ifland,  from 
which  there  is  a  confiderabie  variety  of  prof- 
peel.     A  temple  is  built  on  a  gentle  hill,  com- 
manding the  view  of  the  wooded  iflands  above- 
mentioned  ;  but  the  moft  pleafing   profpeft  of 
them  is  coming  out  of  the  grotto:  they  appear 
in  an   uncommon  beauty  $  two  feem   to  join, 
and  the  water  which  flows  between  takes  the 
appearance  of  a  fine  bay,  projecting  deep  into 
a  dark  wood:  nothing  can  be   more  beautiful. 
The  park  hill  rifes  above  them,  and  the  whole 
is  backed  with  mountains.     The  home  fcene 
at  your  feet  alfo  is  pretty ;  a  lawn  fcattered 
with  trees  that  forms  the  margin  of  the  lake, 
doling  gradually  in  a  thick  wood  of  tall  trees, 
above  the  tops  of  which  is  a  diftant  view  of 
Cultiegh  mountain,  which  is  there  feen  in  its 
proudeft  folemnity.     To  Lord  Rofs's  very  ob- 
liging attention  I  am  indebted  for  the  follow- 
ing 


BELLEISLE.        273 

ing  particulars  : — Rents  about  Belleifle  are  up- 
on an  average  10s  an  acre  for  grafs  and  arable, 
but  mountain  (ides  are  fet  by  the  lump,  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  cattle  they  feed.  The 
foil  is  all  of  blue  clay.  Farms  are  generally  c;ol. 
or  60I.  a  year  •  where  there  are  weavers  they 
are  verv  (mail,  but  the  number  does  not  exceed 
a  twentieth  of  the  whole.  They,  however,  in- 
crease faff  j  they  have  doubled  their  number  in 
10  years.  Seventeen  years  ago,  there  not  bring 
one  bleach  mill,  Lord  Rofs  erected  one-  after 
which  more  were  built,  but  in  the  whole  county 
not  more  than  ten.  Average  rent  of  cultivated 
land   in  Fermanagh,  10s.    Courfe,  1.   Potatoes, 

2.  Barley,  3.  Oats,  4.  Oats,  5.  Oats.  6.  Laid 
out  fix  or  feven  years.     1.  Potatoes,  2.  Barley, 

3.  Oats,  4.  Flax,  5.  Laid  out,  fome  fow  grafs 
feeds. 

Potatoes  yield  20  barrels  an  acre-  each  4 
bufhels ;  they  plant  two  and  an  half  to  an  acre  ; 
the  price  from  2s.  6d.  to  20s.  generally  10s.  on 
ftiff  land,  two  crops  of  potatoes,  but  not  on 
light.  Barley  yields  from  10  to  [5  barrels; 
oats  from  6  to  10  barrels,  but  fometimes  not  5. 
Account  of  flax: 

Rent  and  tillage  -...-'" 

Seed,  two  bufhels,  at  12s. 

Clodding-,  3  boys,  at  6d.  - 

Pulling,  8  women,  at  ditto 

Watering,  two  men  and  two  horfes,  the  men, 

6d.  the  horfes,  is. 
Taking  out  and  fpreading,  two  men  and  fix 

women  -  -  ■  040 

Vol,  I.  T  Lifting 


3 

0 

0 

1 

4 

0 

0 

1 

6 

0 

4 

0 

1    o 


274       B   E   L    L    E    I   S    L   E. 

Lifting,  three  women,  one  horfe,  and  one  man     030 
Drying,  two  men  and  two  women,  2s.  and  fix 

kitties  of  turf,    6s.         -         -         -         .£.080 
Beetling  at  the  mill,  by  the  ftone. 

The  linen  wove  here,  is  from  6  to  18,000, 
but  in  general  1200.  A  woman  fpins  one 
hank,  for  which  file  has  three  half  pence  and 
board,  if  no  board,  four  pence;  the  length  of 
the  webs  vary,  fome  ten  yards,  bat  in  general 
double  ones  of  fifty  yards;  it  takes  two  hanks 
of  yarn  to  every  yard  of  the  web;  the  weavers 
have  five  pence  a  yard  for  weaving  it,  and  they 
will  do  three  yards  a  day ;  they  feli  it  at  monthly 
markets.  They  breed  up  their  fons  more  and 
more  to  weaving,  as  it  increafes  much,  and 
thefe  people  pay  their  rents  by  it,  but  they 
fend  off  much  more  yarn  than  they  weave. 

The  food  of  the  poor  is  potatoes,  butter-milk, 
and  oat-bread.  They  all  keep  cows  and  pigs. 
Moft  of  the  country  is  under  grazing,  fome  of 
which  farms  rife  to  500I.  a  year.  They  gene- 
rally buy  in  year-old  calves,  for  which  they 
give,  on  an  average,  il.  is.  to  il  5s.  and  keep 
them  till  they  are  four  years  old,  and  fell  them 
lean  to  the  graziers  of  other  countries,  who 
have  land  that  will  fatten :  fell  them  5I.  to  61. 
a  bullock,  thus,  every  year,  they  buy  in,  and 
fell  out  a  ftock.  Upon  a  farm  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, of  350I.  a  year,  befides  horfes,  cows,  and 
fheep,  the  farmer  fells  one  hundred  bullocks 
every  year.  Many  cows  are  fattened,  bought 
in  in  May  at  2I.  10s.  to  5I.  and  fold  out  in  No- 
vember, 


B    E    L    L    E    I    S    L    E.        275 

vember,  at  il.  1  rs.  6d.  profit,  and  a  5;ood  acre 
will  carry  one  of  them,  but  in  general  it  v  ill 
take  more.  No  dairies.  Some  Oie  :p  are  kept, 
the  lambs  fold,  at  three  and  four  months  old, 
at  5s.  to  1  os.  6d.  each,  7s  or  8s.  in  general;  the 
wool  of  the  ewe,  4s.  4d.  Some  buy  two  or 
three  year  old  wethers,  f©r  fattening,  in  June, 
at  15s.  and  fell  them  fat  in  March  or  April 
following,  at  il.  is.  to  1 1.  6^.  Breeding  ew<es 
reckoned  the  mod  profitable,  unlefs  the  land  is 
very  good.  In  moory  land,  they  ufe  lime  for 
manuring,  at  7d.  a  barrel,  but  if  the  farmer 
burns  it  himfelf,  and  has  the  (tone  convenient, 
it  is  done  for  3d.  with  turf.  A  good  deal  of 
hollow  draining,  filled  with  ftones,  fome  with 
fods,  but  done  only  by  gentlemen.  Much  corn, 
&c.  by  poor  people,  put  in  with  fpades.,  which 
they  call  loys,  becaufe  they  have  no  horfes,  and 
one  acre  of  oats  dug,  is  worth  one  and  a  half 
ploughed  j  fome  do  it  on  this  account,  though 
they  have  horfes. 

Lord  Rofs  has  generally  a  fmall  field  of  tur- 
nips and  cabbages  for  feeding  fheep  in  the  win- 
ter ;  finds  that  cabbages  are  much  the  Deft,  and 
lafts  the  longeft. 

Auguft  17th,  rowed  to  Knockinny,  the  deer- 
park,  three  miles  acrofs  the  lake,  through  a 
maze  of  woody  iflands.  Land  on  Lady  Rols's 
of  40  acres,  in  which  fhe  has  cut  walks  leading 
through  a  great  variety  of  ground  ■,  in  fo  pe  pla- 
ces through  open  groves  of  large  trees,  in  others 
clofe  dark  wood}  through  lawns  and  rough 
T  2,  ground, 


276    FLORENCE    COURT. 

ground,  from  fome  of  which  there  are  various 
views  of  the  lake,  and  from  others  it  is  fo  per- 
fectly excluded,  that  one  would  not  think  water 
was  fo  near,  a  cabbin  for  a  poultryman,  a  co- 
vered bench,  nod  a  fpot  marked  out  for  a  cot- 
As  the  boat  approached  Knockinny,  a 
preity  bay  opened  upon  us,  round  which,  on 
one  tide,  is  a  projecting  point  of  wood,  and  on 
the  other,  the  hill  of  Knockinny,  with  the  wood 
riling  up  its  fide,  uniting  with  that  of  the  point 
to  form  one  mafs.  From  the  hill  the  view  is 
very  fine-  you  look  down  on  1 1.  or  12  wooded 
iilands  fcattered  over  the  lake,  with  others  cul- 
tivated, and  the  country  riling  around  it.  Bei- 
leiile  appears  to  Hand  in  the  midjft  of  a  very 
large  wood.  Thefiih,  in  this  part  of  the  lake, 
are  perch,  pike  to  401b.  trout,  eels,  bream,  <$cc. 
It  is  extraordinary  that  peich  fhould  appear  in 
all  the  lakes  of  Ireland  and  in  the  Shannon  at 
the  fame  time,  which  was  about  17  years  ago. 
Large  flights  of  fwans  fometimes  appear  here 
in  winter,  and  are  fure  figns  of  a  fevere  one- 

Reached  Florence  Court,  Lord  Ennifkillen's 
feat,  fituated  on  an  eminence  under  a  great 
ridge  of  mountains.  That  nobleman  procured 
me  with  the  polite  ft  attention  the  following 
particulars.- 

The  foil  in  general  is  a  thin  furface,  4  to  8 
i  lches  of  ftoney  mould,  under  that  a  tough  yel- 
I3W  clay  of  14  to  18  inches,  and  under  that  a 
pirple  lime  ftone  gravelly  clay,  a  good  manure 
f  .r  tillage,  but  bad  for  grafs.  Lets  on  an  aver- 
age 


FLORENCE    COURT.     277 

age  at  10s.  an  acre  the  new  leafes  ;  but  if  there 
is  bog  or  mountain,  it  is  thrown  in  at  that 
rent.  Mountain  fides  of  dry  lirne-ftone  fo  1  will 
let  at  6s.  heathy  ones  thrown  in.  About  Ew- 
nifkillen,  Lord  Ennifkillea  has  a  confiderable 
property,  and  heathy  mountain  within  two 
miles  of  the  town,  lets  at  9s,  The  town  parks, 
from  40s.  to  3I.  3s.  The  cultivated  land,  not 
town  parks,  from  12s.  to  20s.  In  refpecl  to 
the  advance  of  rents,  it  will  beft  appear  by  in- 
ferring the  particulars  of  fome  of  Lord  Ennif- 
killen's  farms,  at  old  and  new  rents,  in  va- 
rious foils  and  fituations  at  Florence  Court, 
Ennifkillen,  near  Swadling-bar,  and  Bally- 
Shannon. 


raruk 


2?8 


No 


FLOREN 

CE 

COUR 

T. 

?arms.                             Years  let. 

Acres. 

O.Rent.  Is 

.  Rent. 

.    1 

"73i 

286 

£■  *° 

£■  'co 

z 

1750 

37 

6 

18 

3 

17.16 

283 

27 

100 

4 

1740 

90 

10 

37 

5 

1730 

73 

5 

3' 

6 

'747 

150 

18 

61 

7 

'737 

60 

10 

44 

8 

'73' 

66 

8 

40 

9 

'73o 

86 

9 

28 

10 

'73i 

46 

6 

20 

1 1 

'731 

4' 

6 

20 

1  2  A  Mountain  Faj  m. 

7>6 

99 

9 

20 

*3 

757 

191 

'4 

18 

14 

:^7 

43 

•      6 

18 

*5 

'731 

66 

12 

3<> 

16  Mountain. 

;  34 

i°7 

12 

3f 

17  Ditto. 

1750 

406 

18 

-5 

18  Ditto. 

"745 

316 

34 

150 

19 

'73' 

n8 

23 

93 

iO 

1752 

63 

22 

36 

21 

1752 

'5 

5 

9 

2Z 

•738 

a*3 

'5 

£2 

23 

•759 

97 

18 

87 

24 

173* 

-7 

6 

31 

25 

I73i 

53 

'4 

5* 

26 

'73' 

80 

14 

60 

27 

1731 

00 

14 

67 

28 

173' 

97 

15 

90 

29  Mountain. 

1734 

402 

11 

10O 

30 

1731 

224 

27 

61 

3i 

1731 

66 

18 

60 

3^ 

1731 

75 

14 

56 

33 

1732 

iz8 

22 

64 

34 

1732 

3'4 

27 

■  oo 

35 

'73' 

209 

a7 

94 

36 

1731 

57 

10 

So 

37 

1746 

1 3* 

15 

76 

38 

1744 

3'4 

28 

8z 

39 

1758 

166 

16 

5« 

40 

1735 

9i 

'5 

68 

41 

1734 

407 

37 

164 

42 

173^ 

3i 

9 

3° 

43 

i73i 

61 

17 

3i 

44 

i73i 

116 

5 

48 

45 

1744 

1070 

102 

350 

46  Mountain. 

175a 

'-5 

18 

6z 

47 

1734 

1 90 

23 

95 

48 

1742 

93 

8 

45 

49 

1742 

93 

8 

45 

50  Mountain. 

1748 

235 

10 

165 

5i 

1733 

454 

*5 

70 

5* 

i/33 

149 

20 

70 

53 

J749 

126 

34 

87 

54  Mountain. 

1751 

237' 

65 

340) 

j  1 ,000 

981 

3807 

The 


FLORENCE    COURT.     279 

The  extremes  of  dale  may  be  called  from 
1730  to  1770,  or  40  years,  the  average  of  the 
period  would  be  20  years ;  but  we  may  fifely 
fay  that  in  30  years  the  rent  is  quadrupled. 
The  courfes  of  crops  j 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes,  reversing  the  lands. 
3.  Oats.  4.  Oats.  5.  Oats.  6.  Lay  out  for 
weeds,  &c. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Flax.     6.  Oats.     7-  Lay  it  down. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes.  3.  Barley.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.    6.   Lay   it   out. 

Tillage  farms  rife  from  nine  acres  fubdivided, 
to  large  tracts  in  grazing  ones.  The  manures 
are  marie,  lime-ftone,  gravel,  lime,  bog,  and  fod 
afhes;  the  marie  is  white  and  light,  found  un- 
der bogs,  and  in  banks  j,  that  in  the  banks,  about 
Florence  Court,  is  upon  clay,  or  gravel,  with 
fprings  under  it,  which  makes  the  marie  run  into 
forms  like  cinders,  petrified,  and  of  a  reddilh 
caft,  as  if  from  vitriolic  acid.  The  whole  coun- 
try abounds  with'fuiphureous,  and  other  mine- 
ral fprings.  Very  little  of  this  marie  ufedj  they 
ufe  the  lime  Hone  gravelly  clay  moft,  which 
gives  them  very  good  crops.  The  expenle  of 
lime,  carriage  included,  is  8d.  a  barrel,  flacked; 
they  lay  lixty  barrels  an  acre.  They  burn  their 
mountain  land,  lime,  and  marie  it,  and  fet  pota- 
toes. In  the  year  1774,  there  were  claimants 
for  the  Dublin  Society's  premiums,  for  174  acres 

of 


28o    FLORENCE    COURT. 

of  bo£  reclaimed,  and  120  of  mountain.  In 
1773,  38  moor,  and  120  bog.  No  draining 
done  by  the  farmers,  but  much  by  the  gentle- 
men. 

Potatoes  they  plant  all  on  lays ;  plant  four 
barrels  per  acre,  each  ban  el  6  cwt.  they  are 
meafured  by  the  peck,  fo  piled  up  as  to  weigh 
3  ftone  each:  the  price  from  5s.  to  16s.  the 
barrel  -,  average,  8s.  No  hiring  of  land  merely 
for  planting  potatoes,  but  the  farmers  will  let 
the  cottars  take  a  crop  of  potatoes,  if  they 
dung  the  land.  The  produce,  on  an  average, 
will  be  32  barrels:  thirty-two  men  will  fet  an 
acre  a  day,  with  live  children  :  when  the  pota- 
toes appear,  they  fhovel  the  furrows,  which 
four  men  will  do  in  a  day  :  eight  men  will  weed 
an  acre  in  a  day,  and  lixty-four  men  will  take 
them  up. 

Expenses. 


Rent                  - 

0 

10 

0 

County  cefs 

0 

0 

4 

Four  barrel?  of  feed 

1 

12 

0 

Hauling,  32  men,  at  8d.  ditto,  five 

children,  at  51"!.          - 

- 

1 

3 

5 

Shoveling,  four  men,  8d. 

0 

2 

8 

Weeding,  eight  men,  8d. 

0 

5 

4 

Taking  up,  ilxty  four  men,   8d. 

- 

2 

2 

8 

Sorting*  and  picking,    fixteen  men, 

at8d. 

0 

[O 

8 

Drawing  home,  ieven  hori'cs 

0 

7 

0 

Manuring,   200  loads,  at  id.               0 

16 

8 

Drawing,   four  cars,  4  men,  and 

4  boys,                                               0 

6 

8 

-  1 

3 

4 

7   17     S 
Produce. 

FLORENCE    COURT.     281 

Produce. 
Thirty-two  barrtlb,  ai  8s.  12   16     o 

Expe.nfe:>  -  -  717     5 

£•  4  18    7 


Of  oats,  they  fow  two  barrels  an  acre,  and  fome 
more,  and  the  crop  twelve  barrels.  Of  barley* 
they  fow  five  bufhels  an  acre,  each  eight  gal- 
lons, the  crop  eight  barrels.  Much  ftubble  and 
potatoe  land,  in  wet  foils,  is  dung  for  corn,  and 
it  takes  eighteen  men  to  dig  an  acre  a  day. 
Much  flax  is  fown,  both  on  the  land,  by  its 
owner,  and  hired  by  cottars,  who  have  no  land 
fit  for  it  ;  they  hire  a  peck  fowing,  at  2  bufhels 
and  an  half,  or  2I.  14s.  2d.  but  the  land  is 
ploughed  and  harrowed  into  the  bargain. 

Rent  and  cefs  -  -  £.  o   10    4 

Seed,   five  bufhels,  at   I2s.  -  300 

Clods  and  ftones,  eight  men,  8d.  -  o     5     4 

No  weeding 

Pulling,   16  women,    at  6d.  -  080 

Gathering,  tying,  and  rippling,  fixteen  men,  at 

8d.  -  -  -  o  10     8 

Watering,   eight   horfes  and  cars,  and   eight 

men,   the  horfe  and  car,   at  is. 
Taking  out,  four  men 
Spreading,   eight  women 
Lifting  and  carrying  home,  4  cars,  8  women 

and  4  bb)  s 
Drying  and  beetling  by  a  turf  fire,   four  men 

and  ihiriy-two  women 


Scutch- 


0 

'3 

4 

0 

2 

8 

0 

4 

0 

0 

8 

0 

0 

18 

8 

7 

1 

0 

28s    FLORENCE    COURT. 

7     i     o 
Scutching,   moflly  at  home,  by  women,  but 

done  for  three  halfpence  per  lb.  360  lb.  the 
acre  -  -  -  -  2     5 

Heckling,    thirteen   pence  a    (lone,    twenty- 
two  flone  -  -  -  1     3  10 


0 


10     9  10 


Produce  :  3601b.  or  22  flone,  clean  dref- 

fed,  at  17s.  6d.             -              -              19  5  o 

Expenfes                  -                   -                  10  9  10 

8  15  2 


They  fpin  all  the  flax  they  raife  into  three 
to  five-hank  yarn,  on  an  average  four.  Many 
fervants  are  hired  for  fpinning,  at  1 2s.  a  quarter, 
who  do  the  bufinefs  of  the  houfe,  and  fpin  a 
hank  a  day ;  if  they  do  it  for  pay,  it  is  3d.  a 
hank.  A  ftone  fpins  into  64  hanks ;  and  when 
they  have  done  it,  it  is  fold  at  the  markets  and 
fairs :  the  tow  they  fpin  into  two-hank  yarn, 
which  is  wove  into  feven-hundred  cloth,  for 
home  confumption.  The  weavers  earn,  on  an 
average,  iod.a  day.  Many  cows  are  kept,  and 
much  butter  made  by  every  little  farmer,  which 
they  put  into  tubs  of  1%  cwt.  and  if  one  has 
not  cows  enough  to  make  it,  they  join,  in  order 
to  do  it.  Two  cows  will  rear  two  calve?,  feed 
the  family,  and  make  a  tub,  which  fells  for  40s. 
per  cwt.  on  an  average,  or  2I.  1  os.  the  two  cows  j 
a  cow  requires  two  acres  for  her  fummer  food, 
or  if  they  have  it,  more,  and  her  winter's  hay, 
1  os.    A  good  cow,  if  no  milk  is  taken  from  her, 

will 


FLORENCE    COURT.     283 

will    make  71b.  of  butter  a  week ;  a  middling 
one,  four  pounds  and  a  half,  and  fhe  will  give 
tweive  quarts  a  day.     Many  pigs  kept,  but  no 
proportion   obferved  to  the  number  of  cows, 
which  are  kept  in  the  houfe  at  night  in  winter, 
but  out  all  day.   The  calves  fuck  the  cows  three 
months  before  weaning ;  many  do  not  fuck  at 
all,  but  are  weaned  in  a  few  days.     The  ma- 
nagement of  the  grazing  farmers,  is  to  buy  in 
year  olds,  at  20s.  on  an  average,  keep  them 
till  they  are  four  years  old,  and  fell  them  from 
4I.  to  iol.     Some  of  thefe  farmers  occupy  very 
large  farms,  even  to  ioool.  or  1  500I .  *  a  \     r, 
but  thefe  are  rare.     Some  buy  in  at  three  years 
old,  and  fell  out  at  four ;  fome  at  four,  and  fell 
at   five;  fome  at  ycariings,    and  fell  out    at 
three,  according  to  their  lands.    The  common 
farmers   buy   in   mtfl  heifers,    in  November, 
and  fell  them  in  May,  when  they  buy  dry  cows, 
which  they  fell  fat  in  November,  and  make  on 
the  fattening,  30s.  a  head,  and  on   the   mift 
heifers,  1 6s.  on  an  average.     The  little  farmers 
that  have  lands  fit  for  fheep,  keep  a  few  for 
cloathing  their  families,   very  many  of  them 
fpinning  wool  enough,  and  weaving  it  for  their 
own   cloaths,   pettycoats,   blankets,   &c.   alfo 
fluffs   for  the  women.     The  girls   are  feen  in 
fummer   in   their  flriped  linens  and  whites  of 
their   own   making,   and   in  winter   in   their 
woollen  fluffs.     They  clip  from  a  ewe,  about 
31b.  on  average. 

Goats  were  fo  common  that  every  perfon 
had  them  from  the  cafe  of  keeping,  as  they 
brouze  only  on  bufhes,  and  20  were  nof  reck- 
oned a  J'um.     This  term  fhould  be  explained, 

it 


284     FLORENCE    COURT. 

it  implies  a  portion  of  land  fufficient  for  a  given 
Itock;   for  inftance,  keeping  a  cow  is  a  fum ; 
a  horfe  a  fum  and  an  half ;  8  fheep ;  6  ewes  and 
6  lambs  •  3  year  olds  -,  a  2  year  old,  and  a  year 
old;  a  3  year  old;  20  geefe;   a  barrel  of  pota- 
toes fetting;  a  peck  of  rlax  fowing;  a  barrel  of 
corn  fowing,  and  a  cow's  grafs  ;   all  thefe  are 
fums.     They   plough   all   with  horfes,  except 
gentlemen,  3  abreait,  and  do  half  an   acre  a 
day.     Drawing  by   the   tail  not  done  thefe  7 
years.     The  price  per  acre  10s.     Of  digging  by 
the  acre  12s.  and  the  crop  10s.  an  acre  more; 
but  they  reckon  that  nothing  in  the  world  wears 
out  the  land  more  than  digging.    They  lay  their 
wet  lands  in  narrow  ridges  of  5  furrows.     The 
horfes  get  no  oats,  yet  they  are  not  more  than 
from  6s.  to  12s.  a  fack,   of  2  barrels  meafure; 
the  barrel  weighs  9  or  10  ftone.     Average  price 
9s.     In  hiring  a  little  farm,   no  attention  given 
to  wThat  flock  they  have.     Land   fells  at    2 1 
years  purchafe,  rack  rent,  which  is  lower  than 
4  or  5  years  ago.     Rents  are  fallen  in  4  years 
2S.an  acre.     Tythes   compounded,    fmail  and 
great  ones,  by  the  lump.     The  leafes  molt  com- 
mon are  3  lives,  or  31  years.     Tierney  bogs  are 
now  done  with.     The  people  increafe  consider- 
ably, notwithstanding  the  emigrations,  which 
were  great  tili   within  thefe   2  years.     Their 
circumftances  vairly  improved  in  20  years ;  they 
are  better  fed,  cloathed,  andhoufed;  more  fo- 
berand  induftrious  in  every  refpett.  Their  food 
is  potatoes  and  oaten  bread,  and  a  bit  cf  beef  or 
bacon  for  winter.     All  keep  cows,  and  moft  of 
them  pigs,    and  fome   poultry  ;  many  turkeys 

and 


FLORENCE    COURT.     2&$ 

and  geefe.  No  drinking  tea.  The  religion  fome 
catholic,  but  a  great  many  protectants.  In  20 
years  there  is  a  rife  of  2d.  a  day  in  labour.  In 
provisions  there  has  been  a  considerable  rife ; 
20  per  cent,  in  meal.  A  fledge  car  cofts  2s.  2d. 
Wheel  car  il.  14s.  i:d.  A  plough  1  is.  2,d.  A 
poor  man's  turf  for  a  year  will  coft  him  20s. 
Building  a  fod  cabbin  2L  Ditto  of  ftone  and 
thatch  151. 

Augull  1 8th,  took  the  road  by  Swadling-bar 
for  Farnham.  That  fpaw  of  the  north  of  Ire- 
land is  %  little  village,  which  appears  <o  be  but 
a  poor  refidence  for  the  numbers  that  refort  to 
it.  I  took  the  Killifhandra  road,  from  thence 
to  Farnham ;  in  about  3  or  4  miles  it  leads 
along  the  edge  of  a  lake,  through  a  pretty  wood 
which  hangs  to  the  water.  Faffed  Mr.  Henry's, 
a  houfe  very  agreeably  iituated  amidft  woods* 
which  fpread  to  the  right  and  left,  and  above 
it.  Many  lakes  are  in  this  country ;  I  paiTed 
feveral  large  ones,  which  communicate  with 
each  other  by  a  river.  The  road  crofTes  a  va- 
riety of  bog  and  moory  ground,  perfectly  im- 
proveable ;  lime  cheap,  but  little  feems  to  be 
done  or  doing.  At  Mr.  Nefbit's  enter  a  rich 
woodland  country.  The  bifhop  of  Kilmore's 
palace  is  on  a  confiderable  hill,  yet  Sheltered 
by  very  fine  trees  -,  the  country  here  is  beauti- 
ful. I  had  been  favoured  with  an  invitation 
from  the  bifhop,  but  he  was  then  at  Dublin. 
The  woods  of  Farnham  appear  very  finely  from 
hence.  Reached  that  place  in  the  evening  time 
enough  for  a  ride  with  the  Earl  on  the  borders 

of 


286    FLORENCE    COURT. 

of  his  lakes.  Thefe  are  uncommonly  beautiful ; 
they  are  extenfive,  and  have  a  fnore  extremely 
varied.  On  one  fide  large  thick  hedge  row  trees, 
with  meadows  behind  them;  on  the  other  a 
moft  noble  range  of  hanging,  wood,  which 
lpreads  on  each  fide  to  a  great  diftance,  covering 
a  bold  fhore,  and  to  a  considerable  height,  nor 
are  they  uniform  in  their  outline ;  the  hills  over 
which  they  fpread  vary  greatly;  in  fome  places 
prefenting  a  continued  fweep,  in  others,  break- 
ing the  line,  and  projecting  into  the  lake.  In 
one  part  the  (bore  confins  of  grafs  inclofures, 
the  hedges  fcattered  with  trees,  and  mounting 
upon  the  flopes,  form  a  very  fine  fcenery.  No- 
thing can  be  more  pleafing  than  the  whole  to 
the  right  of  the  lake-,  the  meadows  are  of  un- 
dulating lands  that  wave  about  in  a  variety  of 
mild  forms ;  a  mod  pleafing  fcenery.  Thefe 
beautiful  fields  rife  above  the  lake,  which  they 
command  in  fome  places,  and  in  others  retire 
from.  Upon  the  whole  Farnham  is  one  of  the 
fineit  places  i  have  feen  in  Ireland ;  the  water, 
wood,  and  hill,  are  all  in  a  great  ftile,  and 
abound  in  a  variety  of  capabilities. 

Cabbages  Lord  Farnham  has  cultivated  3 
years  ;  in  1774,  he  had  4  acres  manured  with 
lime  and  earth,  and  of  different  forts,  flat  dutch, 
early  yorkfhire  and  greenbore  cole,  the  feed  was 
fown  in  the  fpring,  and  planted  out  in  June, 
in  rows  3  feet  afunder,  and  horfe-hoed  clean  ; 
found  them  for  milch  cows  much  better  than 
turnips ;  plough  buliocks ;  alfo  fattening  bul- 
locks, that  had  the  fummer  grafs,  fattened  very 
well  on  them;  lafted  till  the  latter  end  of  Fe- 
bruary ; 


F    A    R    N    H    A    M.         287 

bruary;  the  bore  cole  longer-,  the  cabbages 
came  to  a  good  lize,  and  the  crop  paid  extreme- 
ly well.  Tares  and  beans  were  fown  after 
them,  and  yielded  a  great  produce. 

In  1775,  fix  acres,  manured  with  lime  and 
ditch-earth,  well  mixed,  and  at  planting  time,  a 
little  dung  laid  to  each  root ;  the  forts  the  fame 
as  la  ft  year,  with  fome  red  cabbage;  the  crop 
very  fine,  many  came  to  1 6  lb.  ufed  for  the  fame 
purpofes,    and  anfwered  perfectly  well.     This 
year  I  viewed  the  crop,  and  a   very  fine  one  it 
was,  clean,  well  horfe-hoed,  and  promifes  to  be 
a  great  produce.     Upon  the  whole,  Lord  Fara- 
ham  ftrongly  recommends  the  culture  from  ex- 
perience ;  if  he  was  to  farm  40  years,  he  would 
never  be  without  them  for  his  cows,  his  plough 
bullock,  and  for  finiftiing  thofe  fat  beads  which 
have  had  the  fummer  grafs ;  he  thinks  them  far 
better  than  turnips ;  that  an  acre  will  go  farther, 
is  eafier  cultivated,  and  got  from  the  land  with 
lefs  damage.     Nor  is  this  opinion  founded  from 
any  ignorance  of  turnips,  his  Lordfhip  lived  fe- 
veral  years  in  Norfolk,  and  attended  to  the  im- 
menfe  advantages  reaped  in  that  county  from 
the  cultivation  of  them ;  he  introduced  them 
at  Farnham  the  fame  time  as  cabbages ;  they  are 
difficult  to  cultivate  in  Ireland,  from  the  igno- 
rance of  the  people  in  hoeing  -,  he  has  drilled 
part,  and  had  part  broad  caft;  the  drilled  much 
the  beft,  from  their  being  fo  much  better  hoed; 
drills  in  furrows  two  feet  afunder  j  I  faw  this 
year's  crop,  and  found  them  very  fine,  clean, 
and  promifed  to  be  good.     Since  this  was  writ- 
ten, Lord  Farnham  informs  me,  that  in  1777, 

he 


288         F    A    R    N    H    A    M. 

he  had  14  Iriih  acres  of  turnips,  which  kept  50 
working,  and  fattening  oxen,  and  dairy  cows, 
befides  60  fat  fheep ;  fome  of  the  oxen  were 
fold  fat  from  them,  at  from  1 7I.  to  20I.  each  ; 
the  Lancashire  breed  that  had  been  worked. 
The  fame  year  he  had  one  acre  of  carrots,  which 
he  applied  to  feeding  horfes,  and  inftead  of  giv- 
ing 4  barrels  of  oats  a  week,  they  had  only  one, 
the  reft  being  deducted  on  account  of  the  roots. 
That  in  England,  he  fed  his  whole  fhid  with 
them,  nor  would  the  horfes  touch  an  oat,  while 
they  could  get  carrots.  Wafhing  he  found  fo 
expenfive,  that  to  lefTen  it,  he  put  them  in  baf- 
kets  in  a  ftream,  and  this  faved  half;  the  foil 
not  light.  They  were  left  in  the  ground,  and 
drawn  in  the  winter,  as  wanted. 

LordFarnham  mentioned  one  circumftance  of 
turnips,  new  to  me,  which  was  his  feeding  his 
horfes  in  Norfolk  with  them.  His  brood  mares, 
and  hacks,  of  which  he  had  a  great  number, 
ran  in  the  park  at  Hnnfton,  with  his  bullocks, 
that  were  fattening  on  turnips,  and  they  follow- 
ed the  carts  as  eagerly  as  theN  be  a  ft  s ;  had  no 
other  food,  and  did  perfectly  well  on  them. 
His  Lordihip  has  made  great  improvements  in 
fome  of  his  lands  by  means  of  hollow  drain- 
ing. Very  wet  clays,  over-run  with  ruflies  and 
other  aquatic  rubbifh,  he  has  converted  into 
dry  found  healthy  paftures.  The  principal  drains 
are  filled  with  ftones,  the  leffer  ones  with  fod. 

In  the  breed  of  cattle  he  has  been  equally  at- 
tentive, having  been  at  a  confiderable  expenfe 
to  procure  the  very  beflLancafhircs;  and  what 

is 


F    A    R    N    H    A    M.         289 

is  uncommon,  without  fpoiling  his  dairy:  for 
his  cows  give  much  milk.  After  falling  off  a 
good  deal,  they  make  6  or  71b.  of  butter  each  a 
week,  beiides  fupplying  his  numerous  family 
with  milk  and  cream.  The  bull-calves  he  rears 
for  oxen,  works  them  till  they  are  fix  years 
old,  and  then  fattens  them.  Draft  oxen  he 
finds  infinitely  more  beneficial  than  horfes. 
The  breed  of  ftrong  horfes  he  has  alfo  been  very 
attentive  to  improve,  buying  a  ftallion  of  Mr. 
Bakewell,  and  has  bred  many,  which  fell  rea- 
dily at  25I.  each,  at  4  years  old. 

In  planting,  Lord  Farnham  obferved  at  Farn- 
ham,  that  no  tree  grows  to  fo  large  a  fize  fpee- 
dily  as  the  filver  fir.  He  has  many  of  a  great 
iize,  planted  by  his  father  about  40  years  ago, 
in  a  wet  clay  foil  on  a  rock  ;  we  meafured  fome 
of  them  1 2  feet  in  circumference  at  the  ground, 
and  one  7^  at  5  feet  high :  this  tree  contains  76 
feet  of  folid  timber.  What  is  very  uncommon, 
he  pointed  out  many  oaks  that  are  deftroying 
the  Scotch  firs  planted  with  them,  having  out- 
grown and  riling  completely  above  them.  This 
I  do  not  remember  having  noticed  before.  In 
the  fame  plantation  the  beech  generally  beats 
the  Scotch  fir  and  the  afh,  though  the  latter 
fuits  the  foil  very  well ;  indeed  the  beech  oak 
and  filver  fir  are  the  capital  trees.  One  ufe  he 
has  put  the  filver  fir  to,  in  which  it  anfwers 
perfectly,  which  is  boat-buildings  he  has  a  boat 
built  of  it,  which  has  Lifted  as  well  as  if  of  the 
beft  oak.  This  is  a  hint  which  may  prove  of 
infinite   ufe.      I   remember    Mr.   Mitford   in 

U  Hamp- 


290        P    A    R    N    H    A    M. 

Hampfhire  flooring  his  library  with  filver  fir, 
frefh  cut  down,  and  the  boards  not  contracting 
in  the  leaft:  a  quality  very  valuable  in  fhip- 
building.  He  can  fell  Scotch  fir  out.  of  his 
w-oods  readily  at  40s.  a  ton,  even  very  poor 
trees. 

The  foil  about  Farnham  is  in  general  a  good 
loam,  from  4  to  10  inches  deep,  and  under  it 
a  yellow  or  blue  clay  2  feet  deep,  and  under 
that  a  flaty  gravel,  a  quarry  of  lime-iione,  or 
blue  whin-ftone.  It  is  in  general  very  wet ;  hol- 
low drains  lay  it  dry,  if  there  is  a  fall.  From  Ca- 
van  to  Belturbct  it  is  dry  rough  rocky  ground. 
From  Killifhandra  to  Knockwinn,  dry  gravel. 
From  Cavan  to  Virgtny,  heathy,  which  yields 
good  corn,  with  lime.  Rents  by  new  leafeS  in 
general,  1 4s.  to  20s.  old  ones  5s.  to  10s.  Cavan 
and  Kilmore  the  higheft.  There  is  a  great  deal 
of  bog  and  mountain,  which  with  lakes,  amount 
to  half  the  county.  Average  rent  about  6s.  by 
another  account  1  had,  it  is  7s.  6d.  Farms  are 
generally  about  100  acres,  50  to  100,  and  thefe 
re-let,  from  2  to  10  acres,  to  the  poor  people, 
who  are  cottars,  and  pay  their  high  rent  by 
labouring. 

Courfes:  1.  Summer  fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3. 
Oats  or  Barley.  4.  Potatoes.  5.  Wheat  or  barley, 

1.  Fallow.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.  6.  Oats.  7.  Oats.  8.  Oats.  9.  Lay 
out  for  grafs.     No  feeds  fown. 

i.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes.  3.  Flax.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.    6.  Oats,     7.  Lay  out  for  grafs. 

Thej 


F    A    R    N    H    A    M.  291 

They  fow  4  bufhels  of  wheat,  or  20  ftone 
an  acre,  and  it  yields  7  barrels.  There  is  a  good 
deal  fown,  andfeveral  flower  mills  in  the  coun- 
try. Of  barley  they  fow  4  bufhels,  and  get  9 
barrels,  16  Hone  to  the  barrel.  They  fow  8 
bufhels  of  oats,  and  get  on  an  average  10  bar- 
rels. Of  potatoes  they  plant  1 4  barrels  to  the 
acre,  each  20  ftone,  and  the  crop  is  ufually  60, 
and  the  price  5s.  to  10s.     Average  7s.  6d. 

Rent             -             -  -              -             o  16     o 

14  Barrels                    -  -                     5     5° 

Planting,  36  men  a  day,  at  is.  no  board,  6d. 

with  "it               -  -                ~                1   16     o 

Shovelling,  8  men             -  -                  080 

Weeding,   10  boys,  at  qd.  ~                 °     3     4 

Taking  up,  72  men  -               -               3   l2     ° 

Manuring                -  - 


1     o    o 


£•  l3     o    4 

Produce. 

60  Barrels,  at  7s.  6d.  -  -  22  10    o 

Expeni'es  -  -  -  x3     °     4 

Profit  -  -  -  £-9     9» 

But  little  lime  ufed  in  the  country,  though 
in  fome  places  lime-ftone  is  plentiful ;  the  price 
is  6d.  to  iod.  the  barrel  flack.  Much  marie 
ufed  about  Ballyconnel  and  Killifhandraj  the 
white  light  fort  from  under  bogs:  they  ufe  it 
on  heathy  moors  with  fuccefs,  for  which  pur- 
pofe  they  ufe  lime  alfo.  Before  they  plough  it, 
they  lay  the  lime  on,  1  50  barrels  roach,  and 

U  2  then 


292        F    A    R    N    H    A    M. 

then  either  fow  oats,  or  plant  potatoes,  and  this 
perfectly  kills  all  the  heath,  {erica  vulgaris)  and 
makes  very  fine  land  after  it.  Upon  dry  heathy- 
ground  at  Ballyconhel,  Mr.  Swan,  Lord  Farn- 
liam's  manager,  has  feen heaps  of  lime-ftone  laid 
on  the  heath  near  kilns,  and  has  remarked  that 
where  this  ftone  was  laid  without,  burning  or 
breaking,  there  the  heath  was  completely  kill- 
ed, and  a  full  crop  of  white  clover  (trifolimnre^ 
fiensjczme  up,  from  the  dull" that  had  rubbed  off; 
a  ftrong  proof  that  pounded  lime-ftone  would 
be  an  admirable  manure.  The  flock  farmers, 
who,  however,  are  not  large  ones,  -i.§o  acres  be- 
ing a  good  farm,  are  many  of  them  in  the  fuc- 
c'effion  bufinefs  of  buying  in  young  cattle,  and 
fejling  them  out  older  without  fattening ;  others 
on  better  lands,  buy  in  dry  cows  in  May,  and 
fell  them  fat  in  November,  making  from  30s. 
to  40s.  a  head.  But  few  fat  bullocks,  nor  is  it 
a  great  fheep  country,  nor  any  dairies;  but  all 
the  little  farmers  and  cottars,  keep  one,  two, 
or  three.  If  they  pay  for.  grazing  a  cow,  it  is 
20s.  to  30s.  They  keep  alio  many  pigs,  from 
one  to  five,  in  every  houfe.  They  plough  all 
with  horfes  three  or  four  in  a  plough,  and  all 
abreaft.  Here  let  it  be  remarked,  that  they  very 
commonly  plough  and  harrow  -with  their  horfes 
DRAWINQ  bt  JUK  tail  i  it  is_done  every  fea- 
fon.  Nothing  can  put  them  befide  this,  and 
they  iniift,  that  take  a  horfe.tired  in  traces,  and 
put  him  to  work  by, $he  tail,  he  will  draw  bet- 
ter :  quite  frefh  again.1 .,  Indignant  reader !  this 
ie  no  jeft  of  mine,  but  cruel,  ftubbom,  barba- 
rous truth.     It  is  fo  all  over  Cavan. 

Land 


F    A    R    N    H    A    M.      -293 

Land  fells  at'  22  years  purchafe,  rack  rents: 
it  has  fallen  2  years.  Rents  have  fallen  within 
4  or  5  years  considerably ;  thofe  that  were  taken 
7  or  8  years  ago,  have  fallen  from  3s.  to  8s.  an 
acre.  Tythes  are  generally  hired  by  proclors, 
who  view  the  farmers  crops,  and  compound  with 
them,  making  a  considerable  profit  by  it.  They 
fcrew  up  the  poor  tenants  and  people  very  fevere- 
ly.  The  people  are  in  general  in  much  better  cir- 
cumftances  than  fome  years  ago ;  more  indubi- 
ous, better  fed,  cloathed,  and  lodged  :  they  in- 
creafe  very  much.  Potatoes,  and  milk  and  but- 
ter, are  their  food,  and  oaten  bread  when  the 
potatoes  are  not  in  feafon :  fcarce  any  flefh  meat 
among  the  poor.  The  linen  manufacture  con- 
fills  principally  in  fpinning,  which  is  univerfal 
all  over  the  county  for  girls  and  women  ;  but 
weaving  is  by  no  means  general,  nor  does  it  in- 
creafe  in  this  neighbourhood.  A  woman,  by 
fpinning,  will  earn  4d.  on  an  average.  They  do 
not  raiie  enough  for  fupplying  their  wheels,  fqr 
much  is  brought  from  Dublin.  There  are  four 
bleach  greens  inthefe  parts,  at  Ballyconnel,  Bal- 
ly nagh,  Scrabby,  and  Ardvagh.  Building  a  mud 
cabbin  4I.  4s.  ditto  of  (lone,  lime  and  (late,  30I. 
ditching,  6  feet  wide  and  5  deep,  is.  id.  a  drain 
2  feet  deep  and  3  wide,  2d.  to  3d.  a  perch. 
Threfhing  wheat  is.  a  barrel.  Outs  yd.  Barley 
8d.  Farming  man's  wages  5I.  A  lad  3I.  to  4I. 
A  woman  ia  fummer  6d.  a  day.  A  wheeled 
car  coils  ll.  10s.  A  plough  9s.  A  pair  of 
harrows  12s. 

Auguft  20th,  took  my  leave  of  Farnham,  and 
paffed  by  Cavan  to  Granard ;  got  in  that  neigh- 

bouihood, 


294         GRANARD. 

bourhood,  into  a  fine  tracl  of  dry,  found,  gra- 
velly land,  which  lets,  on  an  average,  at  il.  is. 
through  the  barony  :  ufe  it  very  much  for  fat- 
tening fome  bullocks,  cows  chiefly,  and  a  few 
fheep.  The  farms  are  in  general  large,  many 
about  200  acres.  It  is  all  a  lime-ftone  gravel. 
In  the  town  of  Granard,  is  one  clofe  of  50 
acres,  called  Granard  Kiln,  immediately  under 
a  mound  of  earth,  an  antient  Daniih  intrench- 
ment,  which  regularly  fupports  50  fat  cows,  100 
fheep,  6  horfes,  and  is  reckoned  the  beft  fpot 
in  the  county,  worth  35s.  an  acre.  The  coun- 
try, all  the  way  from  Cavan  to  near  Carrick- 
giafs,  within  2  miles  of  Longford,  is  exceedingly 
bare  of  trees. 

Reached  Ballynogh,  the  feat  of  W.  G.  New- 
comen,  Efq;  who  has  many  trees,  and  well 
planted  hedge-rows,  about  him  ;  he  favoured  me 
with  the  following  particulars :  about  that 
neighbourhood,  lands  let  at  13s.  6d.  from  7s. 
to  20s.  The  rent  of  the  whole  county  of  Long- 
ford may  be  reckoned  at  1  2s.  an  acre,  on  an 
average,  of  all  that  is  cultivated,  and  one-fixth 
part  bog  and  mountain,  which  yields  no  rent. 
The  foil  is,  in  general,  a  tolerable  vegetable 
mould  on  ihe  furface,  for  three  or  four  inches 
deep ;  under  that,  two-inch  thick  of  blue  clay  : 
which  retains  water  under  that  yellow  clay  for 
two  or  three  feet,  and  then  every  where  lirne- 
ftoLe  gravel.  This  is  generally  the  foil  of  the 
whole  county,  except  the  barony  of  Granard, 
and  a  part  of  the  county,  called  the  Callaw, 
which  is  a  light  lime-ftone  rocky  ground,  pro- 
ducing fine  wheat^  and  good  fheep. 

Leitrim 


G    R    A    N    A    R    D.  295 

Leitrim  lets  at  4s  on  an  average.  In  Lei  trim 
there  are  many  mountain  improvements,  by 
fetting  fire  to  the  heath  in  fummer,  liming  it 
the  following  fpring,  marling  upon  that,  and 
then  plant  potatoes,  get  great  crops,  and  make 
fine  land  of  it.  The  fize  of  farms  rife  com- 
monly to  5  or  600  acres,  but  the  general  fize  is 
about  100  acres,  with  many  fmall  ones:  Run- 
dale,  or  the  hiring  of  farms  in  partnership,  is 
very  common,  three  or  four  families  will  take 
100  acres.  A  great  part  of  the  country  is  let 
to  tenants  who  do  not  occupy,  but  re-let  at  ad- 
vanced rents  to  the  poor  people.  The  courfe 
of  crops  is:  1.  Potatoes.    2.  Potatoes.    3.  Bere. 

4.  Barley,   or  Oats.     5.  Oats.     .6.  Lay  out  for 

weeds,  four  or  five  years. 
► 

1,  Potatoes.     2.  Bere.      3.  Oats,     4.  Oats. 

5.  Lay  it  out 

1. Potatoes.  2. Flax.  3.  Bere.  4.  Oats.  5.  Oats. 

Of  potatoes,  they  fow  four  barrels  to  an  acre, 
each  64  ftone,  and  get  40  in  return  j  the  price 
5s.  to  14s.  average  8s.  Of  bere  they  fow  2* 
ftone,  and  get  10  barrels.  Oi  barley  ditto,  get 
12.  Oats  they  fow  2  barrels,  at  14  ftone,  and 
get  15.  The  wafle  mountains  are  improving 
very  faft,  by  families  hiring  fpots  of  heath,  build- 
ing their  cabbins  on  them,  and  improving  them 
under  a  rent  of  5s.  to  8s.  an  acre.  They  bring 
it  all  in  by  potatoes,  but  ufe  no  lime,  though 
they  could  have  it  cheap,  for  lime-itone  is  on 
the  fpot,  and  plenty  of  turf  to  burn  it  with; 
this  is  the  cafe  with  Cornclanew,  near  Carrick 
Glafs.  White  marie  is  found  under  the  bogs, 
but  fcarce  any  of  it  ufed.  The  fyftem  of  cattle 
molt  common,  is  to  buy  yearlings,  at  40s.  and 

keep 


296  BALLY  NOGH. 

keep  them  till  three  or  four  years  old,  and  fell 
thern  lean  at  5I.  to  5I.  10s.  buying  in  fome  every 
year,  and  felling  out  the  fame  number.     Fat- 
ting cows  is  alfo  very  common,  bought   in  in 
May,  at  3I.  to  5I.  and  fold  out  in  October,   at 
30s,  to  40s.  profit.    It  is  not  reckoned  bad  land, 
if  three  acres  fatten  two.     No  cows  For  dairies, 
they  are  kept  only  by  little  people.     Ploughing 
all  with  horfes,  a  pair  a-breaft,  but  no  drawing 
by  the  tail  j  this  practice  they  utterly  deny  here. 
Land  fells  rack-rent  at  1 84  years  purchafe.    Let 
for  ever  and  well  fecured,  20   years  purchafe. 
The  price  has  fallen  within  four  years ;  rents 
have  alfo  fallen  three   (hillings   in   the  pound 
in  fix  years,  and  are   at  prefent  falling,   from 
the  low  prices  of  grain.     Tythes  taken  gene-* 
rally  by    the   pro&ors,  who  are   very   civil  to 
gentlemen,  but  exceedingly  cruel  to  the  poor. 
The  country  evidently  encreafes  very  much  in 
population  :  the  people  are  in  better  circumftan- 
ces  than  they  were  20  years  ago,  better  cloathed, 
better  fed,  and  more  induftrious  ;  yet  at  prefent 
it  is  found,  and  I  have  had  the  fame  remark 
made  to  me,  at  many  other  places,  that  they 
only   work    to  eat,  and   when  provifions   are 
plenty,  will  totally  idle  away  fo  much  of  their 
time,  that  there  is  fcarce  any  fuch  thing  as  get- 
ting  work  done.     The   religion  is  principally 
Roman ;  no  emigrations.  There  is  a  better  yeo- 
manry than  is  common  in  Ireland.     Many  far- 
ers,  of  from  1  co  to  2  50  acres.     Rent  of  a  cabbin 
and  garden,  30s.     A  cow's  grafs   il.  10s.     All 
the  cottars  have  fome  land :  all  keep  cows,  and 
many  pigsa^d  geele.     1  remarked  for  fome  time 

of 


STROKESTOWN.         297 

late,  that  the  geefe  are  plucked,  and  upon  en- 
quiry, that  every  goofe  yielded  three  farthings 
or  a  halfpenny   in  feathers  per  annum.     They 
make  a  dreadful  ragged  figure.  The  poor  live  up- 
on potatoes  and  milk,  it  is  their  regular  diet,  ve- 
ry little  oat  bread  being  ufed,  and  no  fleih-meat 
at   all,  except  on  an  Eafter  Sunday,  or  Chrift- 
mas-day.     Their   potatoes  laft   them  through 
the  year  j  all  winter  long  only  potatoes  and  fait. 
Firing  cofts  them  30s.  a  year  for  labour  in  the 
bogs.     Building  a  mud  cabbin,  4I.     Ditto  of 
{tone  and  lime,  37  feet  by  15,  17I.     Another, 
40  feet  by  14,   III     Thefe  are  the  meafures  of 
two,  which    Mr.   Newcomen  has  built  at  that 
expenfe.  The  linen  manufacture  fpreads  through 
Longford.     It  has  encreafed  confiderably,  from 
a  remarkable    circumftance   which   happened 
three  years  ago,  which  was  a  gentleman  un- 
known, giving   500I.  to  be  dillributed  to  poor 
weavers,  in  loans  of  5I.  each,  to  be  repaid,  at 
25s.  a  quarter,  to  enable  them  to  carry  on  their 
bufinefs  with  more  eafe.    This  had  great  effects. 
There  are  three  bleach  greens  in  the  county ; 
the  weaving  increafes;    fpinning  is   univerfal 
throughout  all  the  cabbins,  and  likewife  through 
all  the  county  of  Leitrim,  but  there  is  not  fo 
much  weaving  as  in  Longford. 

■  Auguft  21ft,  to  Strokeftown,  the  feat  of  Tho- 
mas Mahon,  Efq;  Patted  through  Longford,  a 
chearlefs  country,  over  an  amazing  quantity  of 
bo^,  and  all  improveable;  a  great  one  in  parti- 
cular, on  the  banks  of  the  Shannon,  two  miles 
over,  and  I  found  it  reached  many  miles  beyond 

Lanefbro'. 


298         STROKESTOWN. 

Lanefbro'.  Mr.  Mahon  has  500  acres  of  it.  A 
great  fall  lies  every  way,  a  good  road  is  made 
over  it,  and  lime  is  burnt  on  the  edges  for  3d. 
a  barrel  roach;  befldes  lime,  they  have  lime- 
ftone,  gravel  and  fand  every  where,  which  laid 
on  the  bog,  drained  or  not  drained,  produces  a 
fheet  of  white  clover  ;  what  a  field  is  this  for 
improvement,  yet  nothing  done!  Croffed  the 
Shannon,  which  is  here  a  considerable  river, 
and  entered  Connaught,  The  firft  appearance 
of  Strokeftown  woods  are  very  noble,  from  a 
hill  which  looks  down  on  them  ;  they  are  very 
cxtenfive,  of  a  great  growth,  and  give  a  rich- 
nefs  to  the  view,  which  is  a  perfect  contrail  to 
the  dreary  fcene  I  had  patted.  Mr.  Mahon  ne- 
glected no  means  of  having  me  well  informed 
in  the  following  minutes:  Land  about  Strokef- 
town fets  at  25s.  The  average  of  the  whole 
county  is  ns.  including  bog;  mountain  there 
is  very  little.  The  county  of  Leitrim,  2s.  on 
an  average.  A  great  part  of  Rofcommon,  par- 
ticularly from  Athlone  to  Boyle,  30  miles  long, 
and  10  broad,  is  fheep-walk,  and  lets  on  an 
average,  1 2s.  an  acre.  It  is  generally  walk, 
only  patches  of  potatoes  and  corn  for  the  work- 
men. The  foil  of  it  lime- ftone.  Thefe  fheep- 
wTalks  I  had  heard  fo  much  of,  that  I  was  eager 
in  my  enquiries  concerning  them  ;  they  were 
fome  years  ago  divided  into  much  larger  farms 
than  at  prefent,  for  there  were  men  who  had 
20,000  ihecp,  whereas  now  6  or  7000  is  the 
greateft  flock.  The  farms  rife  to  3000  acres, 
few  under  4  or  500.  They  flock  commonly 
at  the  rate  of  two  fheep  an  acre,  and  reckon 
the  profit  to  be  lamb  and  wool,  the  lamb  fold 

in 


-STROKESTOWN.         299 

in  Augufr,  at   1 2s.  and  51b.  of  wool  from  the 
ewe,  at  better  than  is.  per  lb.  or  17s.  a  head. 

They  feed  them  all  the  year  on  grafs,  having 
no  turnips ;  but  in  fevere  weather  give  them 
hay.  They  have  much  other  cattle  with  them, 
fuch  as  yearlings,  two  year  olds,  three  year 
olds,  &c.  felling  them  four  year  olds  to  fuch  as 
want  them  for  fattening.  In  wet  years  they  are 
in  fome  places  troubled  with  the  rot,  but  it  is 
not  at  all  common.  Thefe  meep  walks  decreafe 
as  the  people  become  more  numerous:  parts 
are  ploughed  up,  but  very  few  inftances  of 
fheep  gaining  upon  tillage.  The  cottars  are 
never  fullered  to  keep  fheep,  but  have  cows 
grazed  for  them,  as  in  other  parts. 

This  part  of  the  country  is  not  populous, 
but  more  fo  than  it  was.  Thefe  fheep-walks 
are  here  reckoned  much  better  than  the  Cur- 
ragh  of  Kildare.  They  are  not  regular  in  flocks 
of  ewes,  but  keep  a  various  frock.  A  man  that 
has  1000  fheep  will  have  400  ewes,  200  year- 
lings  having  fold  200  of  the  worfl  lambs,  200 
two  year  olds,  and  200  three  year  old  weathers, 
which  he  fells  fat ;  confequently  his  annual 
fale  will  be  200  lambs,  200  fat  wethers,  and 
100  of  the  worfl  old  ewes. 


200  lambs,  caiuaities  and  mifiing  reduci 

ng 

them  to  1  50,  at  10s. 

75 

0 

0 

200  hit  wethers,  at  20s. 

200 

0 

0 

100  old  ewes    10s. 

50 

0 

0 

Wool,    1000  fheep,  4$.       - 

200 

0 

0 

£■ 

525 

0 

0 

The 


Soo  STROKESTOWN. 

The  country  is  divided  into  inclofures  by 
ftone  walls  generally,  fo  that  one  fhepherd  is 
all  that  is  kept  to  a  flock.  The  wool  goes 
moftly  to  Corke,  where  it  is  fpun  into  worfted 
and  exported  ;  this  is  the  account  I  had  in  this 
country.  All  thefe  fneep-mafters  mix,  as  I  be- 
fore obferved,  other  ftock  with  their  flocks  ; 
beiides  2  fheep  per  acre,  they  will  keep  at  the 
rate  of  40  yearlings,  and  2  or  3  year  olds  to  eve- 
ry 100  acres.  The  foil  is  brown  loam  on  lime- 
ftone  gravel.  Farms  about  Strokeftown  confift 
generally  of  Rundale  ones,  upon  2  or  300  acres, 
there  will  be  10  to  1  5  families,  nor  is  it  thought 
here  a  bad  fyftem.  Much  the  greateft  part  of 
the  land  is  grafs ;  but  what  they  have  in  tillage 
they  arrange  in  the  following  courfe  ; 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes.  3.  Flax.  4.  Barley. 
5.  Oats.  6.  Lay  out  for  6  or  7  years.  None  of 
them  fow  grafs  feeds. 

i.  Potatoes.  2.  Potatoes.  3.  Wheat.  4. 
Oats.     5.  Oats.     6.  Lay  out. 

Much  land  is  let  for  grafs,  potatoes  at  5I.  5s. 
4I.  and  4I.  4s.  afterwards  for  a  crop  of  flax. 
They  plant  4  barrels,  at  5 1  cwt.  each ;  and  they 
get  about  50  barrels  an  acre,  the  price  from  4s. 
to  15s.  average  8s.  To  fell  them  on  the  foot 
growing  iol.  is  reckoned  a  high  price.  Of  flax 
feed  they  fow  1 1  pecks  per  acre,  or  a  hoglhead 
2  acres  -,  an  acre  fold  on  the  foot  (that  is  as  it 
grows)  is  worth  81.  on  an  average.  They  com- 
monly fow  a  barrel,  or  20  ftone  of  wheat  to  the 

acre 


STROKESTOWN.  301 

acre.  Mr.  Mahon  only  12.  They  get  6  in  re- 
turn. They  fow  2  barrels  of  barley,  and  get  q„ 
Of  oats  they  fow  2  barrels,  and  get  10.  Lime 
ftone  gravel  the  great  manure  •,  they  put  1  500 
load,  at  5  cwt.  each,  on  an  acre,  and  it  cofls  rl. 
or  il.  is.  It  does  belt  on  itrong  land,  efpecially 
free  (lone ;  it  will  laft  7  years,  in  which  time 
they  will  take  7  crops.  Of  lime  they  ufe  no 
great  quantity ;  but  when  they  do,  lay  50  bar- 
rels an  acre.  Mr.  Mahon  compared  different 
quantities  of  it,  from  50  to  100,  and  the  more 
was  laid  the  better  it  was,  but  the  lime-ftone 
gravel  better  than  any  of  them.  About  Strokef- 
town,  Mr.  Mahon  can  have  turf  in  one  hole 
and  lime-ftone  in  another,  and  he  burns  it  in 
arched  kilns,  with  feveral  eyes,  the  flone  1 5 
deep  over  them,  and  200  barrels  of  lime  to  each 
eye  ;  it  burns  in  60  hours,  each  eye  takes  10 
clamps  of  turf,  at  4s.  each,  including  drawing, 
each  clamp  30  kifhcs.  Quarrying  and  breaking, 
burning,  filling,  and  building  and  emptying,  2I 
an  eye,  in  all  4I.  for  200  barrels  roach,  or 
about  5d.  a  barrel.  They  have  both  white  and 
grey  marie  under  the  bogs,  the  light  fort,  but 
the  gravel  and  fandy  lime-ftone  is  fomuch  bet- 
ter that  nobody  ufes  it.  They  plough  with  4 
horfes  2  and  2  abreaft.  Mr.  Mahon,  with  2 
abreaft  by  boys,  taught  by  a  ploughman  he  had 
from  Bury  in  Suffolk,  who  by  ploughing  in  that 
manner,  without  a  driver  and  with  a  Suffolk 
plough,  did  as  much  in  one  day  as  the  country 
people  in  three  :  by  teaching  lads  for  Mr.  Ma* 
hon  and  his  neighbours,  was-  the  means  of  ve- 
ry much  improving  the  tillage  of  the  neighbour- 
hood. 


3o2  STROKESTOWN. 

hood.  Land  fells  at  21  and  22  years  purchafe : 
it  let  within  3  or  4  years  at  5  per  cent,  lefs  than 
1  5  years  ago,  but  it  is  now  riling.  Tythes  are 
fometimes  taken  in  kind,  but  more  commonly 
fet  to  the  farmer.  Wheat  8s.  Flax  8s.  Oats 
3s.  Barley  and  bere  8s.  Much  land  let  to 
thofe  who  do  not  occupy  it,  but  who  re-let  it 
to  others  at  an  advanced  rent. 

The  linen  manufacture  of  fpinning  is  fpread 
not  only  through  Rofcommon,  but  all  Con- 
naught,  and  in  Rofcommon  they  raife  flax 
enough  for  their  own  ufe ;  weaving  is  creeping 
in  by  degrees,  about  a  twentieth  part  of  their 
yarn  is  woven  in  the  country,  into  linens  of  10 
or  1 2  hundred,  and  meetings  half  quarter  wide, 
at  iod.  to  is.  4:d.  a  yard.  The  yarn  fpun  is 
moftly  2  hank  yarn.  A  woman  will  fpin  6 
hanks  a  week,  of  4  hank  yarn,  at  4d.  a  hank, 
4d.  a  day  by  4  hank  yarn,  and  3d.  a  day  by  2 
hank  yarn.  The  people  are  upon  the  increafe, 
but  not  much  •,  they  are  better  fed  than  20 
years  ago,  and  better  cloathed,  but  not  more 
induftrious,  or  better  houfed.  They  live  on 
potatoes  and  milk,  and  butter.  Scarce  any  but 
■what  keeps  a  cow  or  two ;  they  are  not  allow- 
ed to  keep  pigs  in  general,  but  many  will  a  to- 
lerable quantity  of  poultry.  The  rent  of  I 
acre,  and  a  houfe,  is  20s.  the  grafs  of  a  cow 
il.  2S.  The  men  dig  turf,  and  plant  potatoes, 
and  work  for  their  landlord,  and  the  women 
pay  the  rent  by  fpinning.  Great  rife  in  prices, 
butter  one-third,  beef  one-fourth,  poultry  one- 
half.     Price  of  a  car  il.  14s.  a  plough  10s.  6d. 

Oak 


STROKESTOV/N.  303 

Oak  timber  3I.  3s.  to  5I.  a  ton,  afh  ditto  2I.  to 
3I.  elm  ditto.  A  mud  cabbin  5I.  5s.  ditto  {tone 
and  flate  15I.  A  mafon's  perch  of  a  wall  4s. 
Near  Cattle  Plunket,  a  bog  of  Mr.  Arthur 
levin's,  let  at  il.  2s.  9d.  a  perch,  160I.  per  acre, 
it  is  2 1  deep  of  fine  turf. 

Mr.  Mahon's  woods  are  all  of  his  own  plant- 
ing, and  having  beiides  100  acres,  a  vaft  num- 
ber of  hedge-rows  well  planted  round  many 
inclofares,  which  join  thofe  woods,  they  all 
take  the  appearance  of  uniting  into  one  great 
range  of  plantations,  fpreading  on  each  fide 
the  houfe.  It  is  one  of  the  ftrcngeft  infiances 
of  a  fine  fhade  being  fpeedily  formed  in  the 
midft  of  a  bleak  country  that  i  have  any  where 
met  with,  being  a  perfecT:  contraft  to  all  the 
neighbourhood.  He  began  35  years  ago  with. 
afh,  which  trees  are  now  70  to  80  feet  high. 

But  the  generality  of  the  plantations  are 
from  1 7  to  30  years  old,  and  are  for  that  age, 
I  think,  the  fineft  woods  I  ever  faw ;  they 
confift  of  afh,  oak,  Englifh  and  French  elm, 
beech,  maple,  fpruce,  Scotch  and  filver  fir, 
larch,  &c.  Of  all  thefe  the  beech  are  the 
fineft  trees,  and  of  the  greateft  growth,  many 
of  them  3  and  4  feet  in  circumference,  and 
30  to  40  feet  high.  The  bark  is  bright  and 
beautiful,  and  every  tree  gives  the  itrongeft 
figns  of  agreeing  perfectly  with  the  foil.  One 
very  particular  circumftance  of  this  tree,  Mr. 
Mahon  tried,  which  deferves  the  attention 
of  thofe  who  have  deer  j  he  made  a  plan- 
tation 


304         STROKESTOWN. 

tation  of  all  forts  of  foreft  trees  in  hi3 
park,  in  order  to  fee  how  far  the  deer  would 
let  them  efcape:  they  eat  up  every  tree  he 
planted,  the  beech  alone  excepted,  not  one  of 
which  did  they  touch  either  leaf,  branch,  or 
bark-  it  was  18  years  ago,  and  they  are  all 
now  as  fine  trees  as  ever  were  feen.  Next  to 
the  beech,  the  larger!:  tree  is  the  filver  fir,  of 
which  he  has  many  in  20  years,  of  a  great  fize. 
After  this  the  oak,  which  thrives  admirably 
well;  then  the  Engliih  elm.  But  the  tree 
which  outgrows  thefe  and  every  other  he  has 
planted  but  5  years,  is  the  Lombardy  poplar. 
The  growth  almoft  exceeds  belief!  In  5  years 
they  are  35  feet  high,  and  I  faw  many  of  2 
years  old  1 2  feet,  and  the  year's  moots  5  or  6 
feet.  His  hedge-rows,  Mr.  Mahon  has  planted 
with  uncommon  attention,  the  ditches  are  fin- 
gle,  with  a  row  of  trees  among  or  above  the 
quick,  another  row  on  the  back  of  the  bank, 
and  a  third  on  the  brow  of  the  ditch ;  thefe, 
with  a  lofty  growth  of  the  quick,  form  fo  thick 
a  fhelter,  that  one  cannot  fee  thro'  it,  fo  that 
almoft.  every  inclofure  has  the  appearance  of  a 
field,  furrounded  by  a  wood.  Of  thefe  inclo- 
fures  thus  planted,  he  has  16  of  from  6  to  20 
acres  each.  Mr.  Mahon's  breed  of  both  cattle 
and  fheep  are  improved  by  a  bull  and  a  tup, 
which  he  bought  of  Mr.  Bakewell ;  and  has 
bred  from  them  with  great  fuccefs.  He  is  in  the 
fucceffion  fyftem,  which  is,  buying  in  a  certain 
number  of  yearlings  every  year,  and  killing  the 
fame  number  fat,  from  5  to  7  years  old :  but  in 
common  they  are  only  kept  till  4  or  5. 

At 


STROKESTOWN.  305 

At  Clonells,  near  Caftle  rea,  lives  O'Connor, 
the  diredt  descendant  of  Roderick  O'Connor, 
who  was  king  of  Connaught  6  or  700  years 
aa;o  ;  there  is  a  monument  of  him  in  Rofcom- 
mon  church,  with  his  fcepter,  &c.  I  was  told 
as  a  certainty,  that  this  family  were  here  long 
before  the  coming  of  the  Milefians.  The  pof- 
feihons  formerly  lb  great  are  reduced  to  3  or 
400I.  a  year,  the  family  having  fared  in  the 
revolution  of  fo  many  ages,  much  worfe  than 
the  O'Niel's  and  O'Brien's.  The  common  peo- 
ple pay  him  the  greateft  refpecl,  and  fend  him 
prefents  of  cattle,  &c.  upon  various  occafions. 
They  confider  him  as  the  prince  of  a  people 
involved  in  one  common  ruin. 

Another  great  family  in  Connaught  is  Mac- 
dermot,  who  calls  himfelf  prince  of  Coolavin; 
he  lives  at  Coolavin  in  Sligo,  and  though  he 
has  not  above  iool.  a  year,  will  not  admit  his 
children  to  fit  down  in  his  prefence.  This  was 
certainly  the  cafe  with  his  father,  and  fome  af- 
fured  me  even  with  the  prefent  chief.  Lord 
Kingfbo rough,  Mr.  Ponfonby,  Mr.  O'Hara, 
Mr.  Sandford,  &c.  came  to  fee  him,  and  his 
addrefs  was  curious:  "  0 'Hara!  you  are  wel- 
come -,  Sandford,  lam  glad  to  fee  your  mother's 
Jon :  (his  mother  was  an  O'Brien)  as  to  the  reft 
of  ye,  come  in  as  you  can"  Mr.  O'Hara  of 
Nymphsfield,  is  in  polTelfion  of  a  contiderable 
eftate  in  Sligo,  which  is  the  remains  of  great 
polTeflions  they  had  in  that  country :  he  is  one 
of  the  few  defcendants  of  the  Milefian  race. 

Vol.  I.  X  Since 


3o6  E    L    P    H    I    N. 

Since  the  bounty  on  the  inland  carriage  of 
corn  to  Dublin,  much  is  fent  from  the  county 
of  Rofcommon,  and  even  farther  from  Sligo  and 
Mayo;  and  this  buiinefs  of  carriage  was  men- 
tioned to  me  as  a  proof  of  the  great  excellency 
of  the  Iriih  car.  They  carry  from  9  cwt.  to  1 2 
cwt.  with  a  fingle  horfe  that  is  not  worth  above 
5I.  The  dillance  from  hence  is  67  miles,  and 
they  are  9  days  going  and  returning :  they  come 
back  loaded.  For  1 6s.  3d.  they  will  carry  a 
load  of  any  thing  to  Dublin,  without  the  ad- 
vantage of  any  bounty. 

Auguft  23d,  leave  Strokeftown,  and  take 
the  road  to  Elphin,  through  a  country  princi- 
pally fhcep  walks;  the  foil  dry  found  gravel, 
and  ftoney  land.  Waited  on  the  bifhop,  who 
was  fo  obliging  as  to  procure  me  feveral  valu- 
able particulars  concerning  the  neighbourhood. 

His  Lordfhip  fhewed  me  the  particular  of  his 
bifhoprick,  which  confifts  of  very  large  tracls 
of  land  both  in  Rofcommon  and  Sligo,  from  this 
the  rental  appears.  The  total  of  his  particular 
are,  18,223  profitable  acres,  5*382  unprofitable. 
Rent  1,742k  Fines  1, 2 1 61.  23,000  acres,  let 
for  1,742!.  mud  neceffarily  be  very  moderate. 
Refpecling  fheep  walks,  the  following  is  an 
account  of  what  a  farm  of  1000  acres  is  on  an 
average;  2000  fheep  kept  on  it  worth  14s.  100 
bullocks,  that  is,  60  two  year  olds,  and  40 
three  year  olds. 

Annual 


£    L    P    H    I    N.  307 

Annual  Sale. 

500  wethers,  at  20s.  to  24s. 

100  culled  ewes,  at  8s. 

2000  fleeces,  51b.  at  lod.  average 

That  is  1  os.  a  head 
Profit  on  100  young  cattle 

£.  1206  o  o 
20  acres  grafs  potatoes  let  at  3I.  3s.  to  4I. 

fay                  -                -                 -  70  O  o 

10  acres  meadow  fold  at  50s.              -  25  o  o 

5  fillies  and  colts,  at  61.                  -  30  o  o 

30  acres  of  wheat,  here  and  oats,  at  $1.  150  o  o 

io  acres  flax  let  at  3I.  to  4I.          -          -  35  o  o 


550 

O 

O 

40 

O 

O 

416 

O 

O 

1006 

O 

O 

200 

O 

O 

Expenfes. 

Rent        -         750 

0 

0 

Cefs          -           30 

0 

0 

10  men        -      80 

0 

0 

Wear  and  tear     10 

0 

0 

Intereft  2000L 

ftock,  6  per 

cent.    -    -     1 20 

0 

0 

Tythe        -        40 

0 

0 

Lofles  on  flock 

3s.  a  head  on 

Iheep    -  -    100 

0 

0 

£•"3° 

0 

0 

£.  1516    o    o 


Produce     -     15 16    o    o 
Expenfes  -     1130    o    o 


Profit    -   £.386    o    o 


X  %  Farm* 


3o8  KINGSTON. 

Farms  in  general  are  from  loo  to  1 500  acres; 
and  rents  from  1 2s.  to  15  s.  an  acre.  Ten  years 
ago  flocks  amounted  to  9  or  10,000,  but  now 
not  above  2000.  Average  rent  of  the  whole 
county  1  os.  From  Elphin  towards  Kingfton, 
efpecially  near  the  latter,  the  foil  ranks  among 
the  fineil  1  have  any  where  feen.  It  is  a  dry 
found  mellow  fandy  loam,  deep  and  very  rich,  the 
herbage  excellent.  It  is  generally  under  fheep 
with  many  bullocks. 

To  Lord  Kingfton's,  to  whom  I  had  a  letter, 
but  unfortunately  for  me  he  was  at  Spaw. 
Walked  down  to  Longford  Hill,  to  view  the 
lake ;  it  is  one  of  the  mod  delicious  fcenes  I  ever 
beheld,  a  lake  of  5  miles  by  4,  which  fills  the 
bottom  of  a  gentle  valley  almoft  of  a  circular 
form,  bounded  very  boldly  by  the  mountains. 
Thofe  to  the  left  rife  in  a  noble  Hope;  they  low- 
er rather  in  front,  and  let  in  a  view  of  Strand 
mountain,  near  Sligo,  above  20  miles  off.  To 
the  right,  you  look  over  a  fmall  part  of  a  bog 
to  a  large  extent  of  cultivated  hill,  with  the  blue 
mountains  beyond.  Were  this  little  piece  of 
bog  planted,  the  view  would  be  more  complete; 
the  hill  on  which  youftand  has  a  foliage  of  well 
grown  trees,  which  form  the  fouthern  more. 
You  look  down  on  6  iflands,  all  wooded,  and 
on  a  fine  promontory  to  the  left,  which  moots 
far  into  the  lake.  Nothing  can  be  more  pleating 
than  their  uncommon  variety ;  the  firftis  fmall, 
(Rock  Ifland)  tufted  with  trees,  under  the  made 
of  which  is  an  antient  building,  once  the  refi- 
dence  of  Macdermot.      The  next  a  mixture  of 

lawn 


KINGSTON.  309 

lawn  and  wood;  the  third,  which  appears  to 
join  this,  is  of  a  darker  (hade,  yet  not  fo  thick 
but  you  fee  the  bright  lawn  under  the  trees. 
Houfe  ifland  is  one  fine  thick  wood,  which  ad- 
mits not  a  gleam  of  light,  a  contrail:  to  the  filver 
bofom  of  the  lake.  Church  ifland  is  at  a  greater 
diftance;  this  is  alfo  a  clump,  and  rifes  boldly. 
Rook  ifland  is  of  wood ;  it  opens  in  the  center, 
and  fhews  a  lawn  with  a  building  on  it.  It  is 
impofiible  to  imagine  a  more  pleating  and  chear- 
ful  fcene.  Palled  the  chapel  to  Smithfield  Hill, 
which  is  a  fine  riling  ground,  quite  furrounded 
with  plantations ;  from  hence  the  view  is  chang- 
ed ;  here  the  promontory  appears  very  bold,  and 
over  its  neck  you  fee  another  wooded  ifland,  in 
a  moll;  piclurefque  lituation.  Nothing  can  be 
more  piclurefque  than  Rock  ifland,  its  ruin 
overhung  with  ivy.  The  other  iflands  afTume 
frefh  and  varied  outlines,  and  form  upon  the 
whole  one  of  the  mod:  luxuriant  fcenes  I  have 
met  with. 

The  views  of  the  lake  and  environs  are  very 
fine  as  you  go  to  Boyle;  the  woods  unite  into 
a  large  mafs,  and  contrail  the  bright  flieet  of 
water  with  their  dark  fhades. 

The  lands  about  Kinpflon  are  very  fine,  a 
rich,  dry,  yellow,  fandy  loam,  the  finefl  foil  that 
I  have  feen  in  Ireland,  all  grafs,  and  covered 
with  very  tine  bullocks,  cows,  and  fheep.  The 
farms  rife  to  500  acres,  and  are  generally  in  di- 
vifions,  parted  by  flone  walls,  for  oxen,  cows, 
young  cattle,  and  fheep  feparate.  Some  of  the 
lands  will  carry  an  ox  and  a  wether  per  acre; 
rents  15s.  to  20s. 

Dined 


3io  B  A  L  L  Y  M  0  A  T. 

Dined  at  Boyle,  and  took  the  road  to  Bally- 
moat;  crofted  an  immenfe  mountainy  bog,  where 
I  flopped,  and  made  enquiries;  found  that  it 
•was  ten  miles  long,  and  three  and  a  half  over, 
containing  thirty-five  fquare  miles  ;  that  lime- 
ftone  quarries  were  around,  and  in  it,  andlime- 
flone  gravel  in  many  places  to  be  found,  and 
ufed  in  the  lands  that  join  it :  in  addition  to  this 
I  may  add,  that  there  is  a  great  road  crofling  it. 
35  miles  are  22,400  acres.  "What  an  immenfe 
field  of  improvement !  nothing  would  be  eafier 
than  to  drain  it,  vaft  tracts  of  land  have  fuch  a 
fall,  that  not  a  drop  of  water  could  remain. 
Thefe  hilly  bogs  are  extremely  different  from 
any  I  have  feen  in  England.  In  the  moors  in 
the  north,  the  hills'  and  mountains  are  all  co- 
vered with  heath,  like  the  Irifh  bogs,  but  they 
are  of  various  foils,  gravel,  fhingle,  moor,  &c. 
and  boggy  only  in  fpots,  but  the  Irifh  bog  hills 
are  all  pure  bog  to  a  great  depth,  without  the 
leafl  variation  of  foil;  and  a  bog  being  of  a  hilly 
form,  is  a  proof  that  it  is  a  growing  vegetable 
mafs,  and  not  owing  merely  to  ftagnant  water. 
Sir  Laurence  Dundafs  is  the  principal  proprietor 
of  this. 

Reached  Ballymoat  in  the  evening,  the  refi- 
dence  of  the  Hon.  Mr.  Fitzmaurice,  where  I 
expected  great  pleafure  in  viewing  a  manufac- 
tory, of  which  1  heard  much  fince  I  came  to 
Ireland.  He  was  fo  kind  as  to  give  me  the 
following  account  of  it,  in  the  moll:  liberal 
manner : 

Twenty 


BALLYMOAT.  311 

Twenty  years  ago  the  late  Lord  Shelburne 
came  to  Ballymoat,  a  wild  uncultivated  region, 
without  induftry  or  civility;  and  the  people  all 
roman  catholicks,  without  an  atom  of  a  manu- 
facture, not  even  fpinning.     In  order  to  change 
this   ftate   of  things,  his  Lordfhip  contracted 
with  people  in  the  north,  to  bring  proteftant 
weavers,  and  eftablifh  a  manufactory,   as   the 
only  means  of  making  the  change  he  wifhed ; 
this  was   done,  but  falling  into  the  hands  of 
rafcals,  he  loft  50.00I.  by  the  bufinefs,  with  only 
17  protectant  families,  and  26  or  27  looms  efta- 
blifhed  for   it.     Upon   his   death,  Lady  Shel- 
burne, wifhed  to  carry  his  feheme  into  execu- 
tion, and  to  do  it,  gave  much  encouragement 
to  Mr.  Wakefield,  the  great  Irifh  factor  in  Lon- 
don, by  granting   advantageous    leafes,  under 
the  contract   of   building  and   colonizing,    by 
weavers  from  the  north,  and  carrying  on  the 
manufactory.    He  found  about  20  looms,  work- 
ing upon  their  own  account,  and  made  a  confi- 
derable  progrefs   in   this  for  five  years,  railing 
feveral  buildings,  cottages  for  the  weavers,  and 
was  goiny;  on  as  well  as  the  variety  of  his  bufi- 
nefs would  admit,  employing  60  looms.     He 
then  died,  when  a  fland  was  made  to  all  the  works 
for  a  year,  in  which  every  thing  went  much  to 
ruin.     Lady  Shelburne  then  employed  a  new 
manager  to  carry  on  the  manufacture  upon  his 
own  account,  giving  him  very  profitable  grants 
of  lands,  to  encourage  him  to  do  it  with  fpirit. 
He  continued  for  fiveyears,  employing 60  looms 
alfo-   but  his  circumftances  failing,  a  frefh  flop 
was  put  to  the  work. 

Then 


3i2  B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T. 

Then  it  was  that  Mr.  Fitzmaurice,  in  the 
year  1774,  determined  to  exert  himfelf  in  push- 
ing on  a  manufactory,  which  promifed  to  be  of 
fuch  effentialfervice  to  the  whole  country.  To 
do  this  with  efFed,  he  faw  that  it  was  neceffary 
to  take  it  intirely  into  his  own  hands.  He 
could  lend  money  to  the  manager  to  enable  him 
to  go  on,  but  that  would  be,  at  beft,  hazardous, 
and  could  never  don:  in  the  complete  manner  in 
which  he  wifhed  to  eftablifh  it.  In  this  period 
of  confederation,  Mr.  Fitzmaurice  was  advifed  by 
his  friends,  never  to  engage  in  io  complex  a  bufi- 
nefs  as  a  manufacture,  in  which  he  muft  of  ne- 
ceifity  become  a  merchant ;  alfo  engage  in  all  the 
hazard,  irkfomnefs,  &c.  of  commerce,  fo  totally 
different  from  his  birth,  education,  ideas  and 
purfuits  ;  but  tired  with  the  inactivity  of  com- 
mon life,  he  determined  not  only  to  turn  manu- 
facturer, but  to  carry  on  the  bufinefs  in  the  mofl 
fpirited  and  vigorous  manner  that  was  poffible. 
In  the  firft  place  he  took  every  means  of  mak- 
ing himfelf  a  complete  mailer  of  the  bufinefs  ; 
he  wTent  through  various  manufactures,  enquir- 
ed into  the  minutiae,  and  took  every  meafure  to 
know  it  to  the  bottom.  This  he  did  fo  repeat- 
edly, and  with  fuch  attention  in  the  whole  pro- 
grefs,  from  fpinning  to  bleaching,  and  felling, 
that  he  became  as  thorough  a  matter  of  it,  as  an 
experienced  manager;  he  has  woven  linen,  and 
done  every  part  of  the  bufinefs  with  his  own 
hands.  As  he  determined  to  have  the  works 
complete,  he  took  Mr.  Stansfield,  the  engineer, 
fo  well  known  for  his  improved  faw-miils,  into 
his  pay  3  he  fent  him  over  to  Eallymoat,  in  the 

winter 


BALLYMOAT.  313 

winter  of  1774,  in  order  to  erect  the  machine- 
ry of  a  bleach-mill,   upon  the  very  beft  con- 
duction ;  he  went  to  all  the  great  mills  in  the 
north  of  Ireland  to   infped  them,    to  remark 
their  deficiencies,  that  they  might  be  improved 
in  the  mills  he  intended  to  erect.     This  know- 
ledge being  gained,  the  work  was  begun,  and  as 
water  was  neceffary,  a  great  bafon  was  formed, 
by  a  dam  acrofs  a  valley,    by  which  means   34. 
acres  were  floated,  to  ferve  as  a  refervoir  for  dry 
feafons,   to  fecure  plenty  at  all  times.     All  the 
machinery  of  the  mill  is  perfectly  well  conftrud- 
ed,  and  worthy  of  the  artift  who  formed  it ;  in 
general  it  is  upon  the  common  principle  of  other 
bleach-mills,  only  executed  in  a  manner  much 
fuperior  to  any  other  in  Ireland,  but  in  feveral 
particulars  it  is  much  improved ;    a  wafhing- 
wheel,  on  the  new  conftruction  ufed  inEngland* 
is  added  j.beetlers  are  improved  in  their  motion 
on  the  cylinder,  by  giving  fomething  more  of 
time  to  their  rebound;  the  motion  given  to  the 
rubbing  boards  is  in   a  manner  different  from 
the  common,  and  in  general,  the  wheels  are  all 
fo  proportioned,  that  every  operation  may  go 
on  in  the  full  velocity,  without  one  part  being 
flopped  at  all  upon  account  of  another,  which 
is  not  generally  the  cafe  ;    the  water  wheel  is 
alfo  formed  to  work  with  the  leaft  quantity  of 
water  poifible  ;  all  the  works  going  on  with  no 
larger  quantity  than  will  flow  through  a  pipe  of 
a  9-inch  bore.  Here  are  two  beetling  cylinders, 
three  pair  of  rubbing  boards,  a  pair  of  ilocks,  a 
waihing  wheel,  two  large  coppers  for  boiling  or 
bucking,  a  room   for  drying,  and  another  for 

folding, 


3i4  BALLYMOAT. 

folding,  the  whole  contained  in  a  well-erecled 
edifice,  81  feet  long,  by  28  feet  broad,  and  17 
high. 

In  the  firft  year,  1774,  not  having  a  bleach- 
green,  he  only  kept  the  looms  going,  to  fell  the 
linen  green ;  6  5  in  that  year  worked  1 7  30  webs, 
each  50  yards  long  and  feven-eighths  broad,  on 
an  average  10  hundred  linen.  In  1775,  the 
number  of  looms  was  80,  and  they  worked 
2 1 10  pieces  of  the  fame  linen.  At  prefent  the 
number  is  90,  and  preparations  are  made  for 
there  being  120  by  this  time  twelve-month:  and 
Mr.  Fitzmaurice  has  no  doubt  of  having  300  in 
two  years  time.  In  eftablifhing  and  carrying 
on  this  manufactory,  the  increafe  has  been  by 
weavers  from  the  north,  for  whom  he  builds 
houfes  as  fall  as  he  can,  and  has  many  more  ap- 
plying than  he  can  fupply  by  building.  They 
come  with  nothing  but  their  families,  and  Mr. 
Fitzmaurice  fixes  them  in  houfes,  finds  them  a 
loom,  and  every  thing  neceffary  for  their  work, 
and  employs  them  upon  his  own  account;  their 
rent  for  their  houfe  and  garden  being  propor- 
tioned to  their  idlenefs. 

The  full  rent  he  fixes  for  a  (tone  and  flate 
cottage,  that  oofts  him  50I.  is  40s.  if  the  wea- 
ver is  idle ;  but  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
webs  he  weaves  his  rent  is  lowered  •  befides 
wrhich  encouragement,  he  gives  premiums  for 
the  befl  weaving  and  fpinning  throughout  the 
manufactory. 

In 


B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T.  315 

In  order  to  fhew  how  far  this  fyftem  of  em- 
ployment is  of  importance  to  the  neighbour- 
hood, I  may  obferve  that  the  80  looms,  be  (ides 
the  80  weavers,  employed  80  perfons  more, 
which  are  ufually  women  ;  quilling,  warping, 
and  winding;  the  quilling  by  children  and  half 
as  many  children  for  quilling  in  .all  80  men,  80 
women,  and  40  children. 

The  2 1 1  o  pieces  worked  lafl  year  confumed 
1 32,930  hanks  of  yarn,  at  63  to  each,  allowing 
for  accident  and  wafte,  which  is  fpun  here,  and 
as  a  woman  fpins  a  hank  a  day  (it  is  3  hank 
yarn)  it  employs  at  300  days  to  the  year,  443 
women. 

I  fhould  be  particular  in  remarking,  that  all 
the  houfes  he  built  for  the  weavers,  have  no 
more  than  half  a  rood  of  potatoe- garden  to 
them,  Mr.  Fitzmaurice  finding  them  a  cow's 
grafs,  for  which  they  pay  30s.  He  does  this,  be- 
caufe  he  would  not  wifh  to  have  them  farmers, 
which  he  thinks  does  not  at  all  agree  with  their 
bufinefs  of  weaving.  HehasplaUnedmuch  great- 
er works ;  has  procured  a  patent  for  a  market, 
which  he  defig;ns  to  ettablifli;  to  build  a  large 
handfbme  market- houfe,  at  an  expenfe  of  ioock 
to  pull  down  all  the  old  cabbins  in  the  town,  and 
rebuild  them  in  regular  ftreets,  of  good  houfes, 
for  weavers  and  mechanics.  To  convert  a  large 
houfe,  at  prefent  ufed  in  the  manufactory,  into 
a  handfome  inn  ;  a  large  houfe  for  a  mailer 
weaver,  and  laftly,  a  manfion-houfe  for  him- 
felf  in  the  itiic  of  a  caftle,  and  fuitable  to  the 

ancient 


3i6         BALLYMOAT. 

ancient  ruins,  Situation,  and  grounds.  For 
thefe  purpofes,  he  has  employed  Mr.  Paine, 
the  architect,  to  give  defigns,  and  execute  the 
whole.  Thefe  are  great  works  for  the  orna- 
ment and  improvement  of  a  country,  and  unit- 
ed with  the  flourishing  progrefs  of  the  manu- 
factory, promife  to  make  Ballymoat  a  consider- 
able place.  Too  much  praife  cannot  be  given 
to  a  man,  who,  in  the  prime  of  life,  when 
pleafure  alone  ufually  takes  the  lead,  Should 
turn  his  attention  and  expenfe  to  objects  of 
fuch  national  utility  and  importance,  which 
have  for  their  aim,  the  well  being,  happinefs, 
and  fupport  of  a  whole  neighbourhood. 

It  may  be  of  uie  to  inform  thofe  who  may 
entertain  thoughts  of  a  Similar  establishment, 
what  the  expenfe  of  thefe  works  have  been, 
with  this  view  I  requested  the  particulars  of 
Mr.  Fitzmaurice,  and  they  are  as  follow  : 
forming  the  refervoir  of  w7ater,  the  bleach- 
mill,  a  green,  a  boiling-houfe,  a  houfe  for  the 
matter  bleacher,  and  3  or  4  houfes  for  bleach- 
ers, coft  in  the  whole  1500J.  of  this  160I.  was 
for  forming  the  refervoir.  A  houfe  of  Stone 
and  Slate  Sufficient  to  contain  a  family,  and 
four  looms,  cofls  55I.  and  the  4  looms  81.  8s. 

In  order  to  Shew  the  full  expenfe  of  estab- 
lishing a  manufactory,  that  employs  one  hun- 
dred looms,  the- following  particulars  will  be  of 
ufej  they  will  alfo  Shew,  that  views  of  private 

profit 


B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T.  317 

profit  have  not  a&uated  Mr.  Fitzmaurice  to 
this  undertaking,  as  it  is  nothing  but  a  very 
fkilful  management,  or  fortunate  prices  can 
make  it  advantageous  to  a  gentleman,  whofe 
views  ought  to  be  more  diftant,  to  the  increafe 
of  ufeful  population,  and  thereby  of  the  rental 
of  his  eftate. 

The  bleach  mill  and  green  -  1500     o    o 

25  cottages  for  the  100  looms,  at  55I.  1375     o     o 

Other  building  for   a   clerk  and  mailer 

weaver  ~  -  200     o    o 

100  looms,  yard-wide  or  under  -  210     o    o 

Intereft  of  that  fum,  at  6  per  cent,  for 

a  year  -  -  197     o    o 

163,800  hanks  of  yarn,    at  63  to  each 

piece,  and  26  pieces  to  each  loom,  per 

annum,    at  five-pence  three  farthings 

per  hank  -  -  .  3924     7     6 

Purging  the  yarn,  one  halfpenny  a  hank         341     5     O 

N.B.  It  is  now  fixpence-halfpenny,  and 

even  raifing,    but  that  is  very  high,  5d. 

is  a  low  price. 
I  per  cent,  on  ditto,  3900  for  carriage  and 

cxpenfes  -  -  39     O     O 

Pay  of  100  weavers  at  3id.  a  yard  for  a 

ten  hundred  cloth,  or  14s.  id.  a  piece, 

fay  15s.  as  they  run  to  $1  yards,  2637       1977   15     o 
Pay  of  a  mafter  weaver  -  100     o    o 

Pay  of  a  yarn-buyer  and  forter  -  2500 

£•9889     7     6 
Needle 


3i8        B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T. 

Brought  over  -  £.  9889     7     6 

Needle  marking  2637  pieces,  at  id.  each  10  19     9 

As  to  bleaching,  the  faireft  way,  is  to  fup- 
pofe,  that  the  expenfe  of  it  amounts  to 
as  much  as  the  bleachers  charge,  which 
is  Ifd.  a  yard,  this  includes  the  bleach- 
ers profit,  6s.  4d. f  a  piece  -  840  10  o 
Package  5s.  per  pack,  of  100  pieces,  each 

25  yards  -  -  -  1340 

Carriage  to  Dublin  20s.  a  pack  of  100  53     o     o 

Commiffion  to  the  Dublin  factor  2  percent, 
on  5274  pieces,  at  is.  3d.  per  yard,  or 
it.  7s.  id.  a  piece,  or  8239I.  two  per 
cent,  on  this  mm  -  -  164  15     o 

N.  B-  On  fine  goods,  5  percent,  owing 
to  the  tedioufnefs  of  felling  them,  and 
5  months  credit,  inftead  of  2. 
Porterage  in  Dublin  2s.  6d.  a  pack    -    -  6100 

£.  10,978     6    3 
Annual  expenfe. 

Intereft  on  the  firft  ftock  197  o  o 

Yarn        -  39*4  7  6 

Purging  and  carnage  380  o  o 

Weavers         -         -  ^977  *5  ° 

Overfeers        -          -  125  o  o 

Marking        -         -  10  19  9 

Bleaching         -         -  840  10  o 

Package  and  carriage  66  4  o 

Commiffion            -  164  o  o 

Porterage            -  6  10  o 

jC-  769-     6     3 

As 


B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T.  319 

As  the  money  is  turned  juft  twice  a  year, 

half  this  is  to  be  charged  as  ftock,  or         3846  O     o 

Buildings  -  -  -         3285  °     ° 

Therefore  the  capital  for  the  undertak- 
ing is  -  "  7131  o    o 

Intereft  on  that  at  6  per  cent.  -  42700 

Sundry  expenfes  on  5274  pieces  -  7692  o     o 

j£.8iia.  o     o 


Produce. 

5274  pieces,  at  il.  us.  3d.  ,  8239  o  o 

Expenfes               -                   -  8119  o  o 

Remain*                   -                  -  120  o  o 


Hence  there  appears  to  be  fome  profit  on 
this  account,  befides  all  that  is  on  the  bleach- 
ing -,  alfo  the  rent  of  2  5  houfes,  which  may  be 
reckoned  at  icol.  a  year.  • 

But  if  they  fell  only  at  il.  7s,  id.  the  ac- 
count would  then  be : 

Expenfes  -  -  8119     o     o 

Produce  5274*  at  27s.  id.        -         7141     o     o 

Lofs  -  -  978    o    o 

Let 


32o  BALLYMOAT. 

Let  me  obfervenpon  this,  that  fuch  accounts 
are  never  accurate,  and  they  ihould   be  taken 
rather  for  framing  general,  than  particular  ideas. 
At  firft  fight,  it  might  be  thought,  that  proving 
too  much  in  the  little  or  no  profit  of  fuch  an 
undertaking,  is   proving   nothing,  as  the  trade 
could  never  be  carried  on  -y  but  this  would  not 
be  a  juffc  conclufion.     The  linen  bufinefs  is  not 
conducted  thus;  the  drapers,  who  are  bleachers, 
purchafe  the  linen,  not  weave  it  on  their  ac- 
count j  and   here  lies  probably  much  of  their 
profit,  they  take  advantage  of  the  variation  of 
times,  to  ufe  a  commercial  term,  and  often  get 
the  linen  under  its  fair  value  j  they   have   the 
opportunity  of  taking  advantage  of  all  tempo- 
rary necefftties  among  the  weavers  ;    but  at  all 
events,  they  know  to  a  farthing  the  value  they 
can  give,  and  they  do  not  buy  a  piece  more  than 
fuits  them.     But  if  the  weaving;  was  done  on 
their  account,  they  would  be  obliged  to  make 
the   linen,  however  dead  the  market,  or  elfe 
have  their  men  idle.    A  nother  obfervation  which 
goes  generally  to  all  undertakings  of  this  fort  is, 
that  the  uniting  in  one  perfon  feveral  branches 
of  a  manufacture,  will  rarely  be  found  advan- 
tageous.    If  every  ftep  is  a  diftind  trade,  alone 
occupying  both  capital  and  attention,  the  fabric 
is  the  more  like  to  thrive.     That  Mr.  Fitzmau- 
rice,  with  great  activity  and  a  good  undertiand- 
mg,  can  make  himfelf  a  matter  of  the  bufinefs, 
nothing  but  contraction  can  doubt  j  but  I  quef- 
tion  whether  the  mod  fagacious  draper  in  Ire- 
land would  make  coniiderably,  if  he  wove  the 

cloth 


EALLYMOAT.  321 

cloth  as  well  as  bleached  it-  hence  therefore, 
the  part  of  the  preceding  calculation  the  moft 
applicable  to  gentlemen,  is  the  detail  of  the  ex- 
penditure of  3 2 8 5 1 .  becaufe  for  that  fum,  100 
weavers  and  a  bleacher  v.  ould  be  fct  to  work, 
to  whom  the  landlord  might  give  what  encou- 
ragement he  pieafed  in  bounties  per  piece,  made 
and  bleached,  but  neither  the  one  or  the  other 
on  his  own  account.  After  all,  I  fee  every  rea- 
ibn  to  affert,  that  a  gentleman,  for  a  (hilling  he 
will  ever  make  by  manufactory,  will  profit  a 
guinea  by  the  improvement  of  land  ■,  have  raf- 
cals  to  deal  with  in  one  line,  and  honeit  men 
in  the  other. 

Mr.  Fitzmaurice  obferves,  that  the  art  of 
bleaching  depends  fo  much  on  nieeties,  and  not 
a  little  on  matter  of  opinion  in  the  drapers,  who 
buy  the  linen,  that  it  is  difficult  to  lay  down 
any  rules  for  it  ;  there  are  fome  points  howe- 
ver, which  deferve  attention ;  firft,  in  refpecl 
to  the  ufe  of  lime,  which  though  great  chy  miffs 
have  proved  to  be  perfectly  harmlefs  and  ufe- 
ful,  if  ufed  with  fkill  and  caution,  yet  the 
bleachers  pofitively  deny  the  ufe  of  it,  whether 
to  indulge  the  prejudice  of  the  common  people 
againft  it,  or  for  profit  in  making  the  word 
afhes  equal  to  the  beft,  cannot  be  well  afcer- 
tained.  As  to  bucking  and  boiling,  it  is  very 
oblervable  that  the  fineil  linens  being  made  of 
the  hardefl  and  toughen1  fibres  of  theflax,  which 
ftand  the  operation  of  leutching,  (which  by  the 
way  is    a  very  ftrong   reafon   why   the  rineit 

Vol,  I.  Y  Iin< 


322  BALLYMOAT. 

linens  fhould  be  incomparably  more  lafting  than 
the  coarfer  ones)  make  a  diftinclion  between 
boiling  and  bucking,  the  firft  is  the  moft  fe- 
vcre  operation,  and  therefore  neceffary  for  the 
tough  materials,  the  other  proper  for  the  coarfe 
and  weaker  ones.  But  they  are  the  fame  thing 
if  done  with  attention  ;  a  thorough  bucking  is 
equal  to  a  mild  boiling,  but  depending  both  on 
the  degree  in  which  they  are  performed.  With 
regard  to  rubbing  boards,  the  general  preju- 
dice to  them  being  founded  on  facl,  can  only 
arife  from  the  bleachers  faving  foap  •,  if  ufed 
in  a  proper  quantity,  there  is  not  the  lealt 
objection  to  them. 

Account  of  flax  about  Ballymoat.  The 
greater  part  of  the  poor  people  about  Bally- 
moat allot  about  half  a  rood  of  land  to  the 
growth  of  flax,  the  rent  7s.  6d.  this  is  fown 
with  about  five  gallons  of  feed,  medium  price 
5s.  6d.  the  5  gallons.  From  breaking  and 
fcutching,  the  above  yields  to  the  grower,  from 
84  to  112  cwt.  that  is,  6  to  8  Hone.  If  the 
flax  be  dried,  as  well  as  broke  and  fcutched  at 
the  mill,  the  charge  is  i6d.  aftone-,  if  only 
the  two  latter,  it  is  only  i4d.  or  if  fcutched, 
only  iod.  After  fcutching,  it  is  worth,  rough, 
5  s.  to  6s.  a  ftone> 


Dr. 

Cr 

Rent          -         -         076 

Value  oi"  8  ftonc. 

Sr;c<l                -              -              056 

Breaking,    .hying,?  o          g 

and  leutthing     ^ 

Profit  tor  labour     -     o   16     4 

£.2     0     0 

I-  *     o     o 

After 


B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T.  323 

After  fcutching,  it  is  heckled  or  fplit  into 
fmall  pieces  of  different  qualities;  one  half 
produces  the  beft  fort,  which  is  fpun  to  about 
three  hank  yarn,  that  is,  three  hanks  to  the 
pound :  the  half  of  the  remaining  half,  i.  e. 
one  quarter  of  the  whole,  is  called  hackled 
tow,  and  is  fpun  into  an  inferior  fort,  two 
hank  yarn ;  the  remainder  is  called  backings^ 
and  is  fpun  into  the  coarfeft  fluff,  of  which  is 
madefacking,  coarfe  fheeting  for  the  poor,  &c. 
At  this  period  the  weight  is  not  diminifhed 
above  4  lb.  in  the  cwt.  and  the  befl  fort  is 
worth  at  a  medium,  gd.  a  lb.  the  fecond  fort 
worth  6d.  and  the  coarfeft  about  lid.  after 
payment  of  id.  per  lb.  for  the  two  firft  forts. 


Dr. 

Cr. 

Rough  flax 

- 

a    0 

0 

561b.  heckled  of  bed  fort  Z     2 

O 

Heckling 

- 

0    7 

0 

281b.  at  6d.           -           o  14 

O 

Profit 

0  ia 

0 

Backings         -        -        03 

O 

£•  *   '9 

0 

£•*   '9 

a 

The  hecklers  generally  travel  about  to  the 
houfes  of  poor  people  to  get  this  work  to  do. 
Four  men  will  be  taken  up  2  days  in  doing 
the  above  quantity.  Spinning  is  performed  by 
women  and  children  ;  one  diligent  perfon  will 
fpin  about  one  hank,  containing  12  ents,  each 
ent  having  1 20  rounds,  from  two  yards  and  a, 
half  in  circumference  in  a  day.  If  carried  then 
to  market,  it  generally  produces  5d.  per  hank, 
or  a  dozen  to  the  fpinner,  and  is  generally 
bought  by  jobbers  or  by  poor  manufacturers. 

Y  a  Upwards 


324  B  A  L  L  Y  MOAT. 

Upwards  of   4o,oool.  per  arm.  in  yarn  is  ex- 
ported from  Sligo  to  Manchester  and  Liver- 
pool.    It  is  fuppofed  that  there  is  as  much  yarn 
exported  raw  from  Ireland,  as  is  manufactured 
in  it.     The  firft  ffep  taken  by  the  manufacturer 
is  to  ffeep  the  yarn  in  lukewarm  water  for  a 
day  or  two;  it  is  then    boiled  12  hours  in  a 
ffrong  lee  of  barilla   afnes,  after  which    it   is 
bleached  for   3  weeks  or  a  month,  and  when 
dry,  is  dreffed  and  foftened  by  being  hung  in 
a  frame,  and  rubbed  in  a  clipped  flick,  after 
which  it  isforted  into  different  degrees  of  fine- 
nefs,    firft   by  weight,  and  then   by  the   eye, 
when  it  is  ready  to  be  delivered  to  the  weaver, 
with  the  reed  and  geers  adapted  to  manufactur- 
ing it.     The  griit  or  finenefs  of  the  yarn,  de- 
termines the  fet  or  finenefs  of  the  reed  through 
which  it  is  to  be  wrought.     The  reed  is  divided 
into  beers,  each  beer  containing  20  fplits,  each 
fplit  two  threads.     Thefe  threads  are  called  the 
warp.     The  threads  thrown  acrofs  by  the  fhut- 
tle  are  called  the  wooft.     Five  beers  are  what  is 
commonly  called  a  hundred,  the  number  of  which 
hundred  is  regulated  by  the  fkill  of  the  manu- 
facturer, fo  as  to  make  the  cloth  thick  or  thin 
in  the  breadth  :  and  the  number  of  thefe  hun- 
dreds constitutes  the  finenefs  and  value  of  the 
cloth.     N.  B.    The  extremities  are  from  400 
fplits  in  the  breadth  of  one  yard  to  2500.     The 
rule  to  afcertain  the  true  value  of  any  given 
piece  of  c'oth  by  infpection  with  a  glafs.     Ap- 
ply the  glafs  to  the  cloth,  reckon  the  number 
of  threads  in  the  warp,  which  are  magnified 

by 


o     o 
o 


B  A  L  L  Y  M  O  A  T.  325 

by  the  glafs, '  and  by  as  many  threads  as  are  fo 
counted,  fo  many  hundreds  is  the  finenefs  of 
the  cloth,  which  hundreds  when  doubled,  and 
half  of  the  firft  number  added,  i.  e.  10  threads 
giving  as  many  hundreds,  them  doubled  make 
20,  and  half  added  25.  Of  fo  many  hanks  of 
yarn  does  a  piece  of  cloth  of  20  yards  confift 
of,  fairly  and  honeftly  made.  Learn  the  value 
of  yarn,  add  the  weaving  and  bleaching,  and 
the  addition  gives  the  value  out  of  the  manu- 
factory. 

An  Acre. 

Forty  gallons  feed,  is.  6d.                  -  3     °     ° 
Two  ploughings 

Two  harrowings             -             -  o     6 

Clodding,  four  women             -  -             020 

Weeding,  ten  ditto           -           -  -           050 
Pulling,    twenty    women,    a  day,     3d,    and 

diet,  3d,                     -                    -  o  id     o 

Binding,  four  men,  6d.  and  3d.  diet  -         030 
Carrying,  fix  hori'es,  a  day,    at  is  6d-       -       090 

Watering  and  Codding,  fix  men         -  -         046 

Taking  out,  four  men               -  o      I      6 

Spreading,  twelve  women                   "  00 

Lifting,  twelve  women            -  O     Q 

Carrying,  two  cars  and  four  men  9     " 

Drying,  four  men  and  four  women  -          °     5 

Twelve  kiflies  turf,  Sd.              -  -              o     S     o 

Beetling,  forty  women              -  100 

yf.8  11     o 


Scutching 


326  BALLYMOAT. 

Brought  over  -  £.  8   1 1     o 

Scutching,  is.  a  (tone,  fifty-fix  ftone         -        2160 
Heckling,  8d.  a  ftone  for  the  flax,  id.  per 
lb.  for  the  tow,  4  lb.  of  the  firft  to  the 
ftone,    fcutched,    or   14  ftone,   heckled, 
at  8d.  -  -  094 

Three  pound  of  tow  to  the  ftone,  168  lb. 

at  id.  -  -  O  14     o 

Rent  -  -  -  -  o  16    o 

Ll3  10    4 

If  the  land  is  hired  ready  dre (Ted  -  11     8    4 

Rent  *  -  -  -  200 

13     8     4 


This  if  a  cottar,  but  if  not  the  rent  is  3I. 

which  will  make  it  -  -  14    8    4 

Value  of  the  heckled  flax,  7d.  to  is.  aver- 
age 9d.  a  lb.  or  12s.  a  ftone  -  880 

One  hundred  fixty-eight    pound    of  tow, 

at  6d.  -  -  440 

Six  pound  of  Backings  to  the  ftone,  356  lb. 

at  one  halfpenny  -  -  o  14    o 


Very  little  weaving  in  Sligo,  but  a  little  fcat- 
tered  fpinning  every  where  ;  the  women  earn 

3d.  or 


M    E    R    C    R    A. 


j 


27 


3d.  or  4<i.  a  day,  by  a  hank  a  day.  8o,oool. 
of  yarn  laft  year  exported  from  the  port  of  Sli- 
go.  Price  of  labour,  cottars  5c!.  others  6d. 
Heaps  of  weeds  burning  all  over  the  country 
for  afhes  for  boiling  the  yarn,  by  poor  people. 
An  acre  of  weeds  has  been  fold  for  61.  6s.  One 
fixth  of  the  county  bog  and  mountain,  the  reft 
1  5s.  an  acre.  The  farms  rife  to  large  ones, 
that  are  grazing,  but  all  the  tillage  is  carried 
on  by  cottars,  or  very  inconfiderable  ones. 
The  courfes  are ; 

1.  Potatoes.     2.  Flax.     3.  Oats.     4.  Oats. 

1.  Potatoes.     2.  Potatoes. 

Barony  of  Corra,  the  beft  in  the  county ;  the 
high  lands  all  lime-ftone.     Rent  about  Bally- 
moat.   20s.     Potatoes  yield  26   barrels,  at  the 
average  price  of  fix  fhillings,  it  weighs  iocvvt. 
Wheat  yields  iix  and  an  half,   orfeven  barrels. 
Oats  10  ditto.     A  great  plenty  of  marie,  and 
lime-ftone,  and  lime-ftone  gravel  in  all  the  coun- 
try, but  none  ufed,  except  by  fuch  as  are  forced 
to  do  it  by  their  landlords.     Of  thefe  the  moil 
generally  ufed  is  the  lime-ftone  gravel.     A  good 
deal  of  mountain,  improved  by  little  farmers,  by 
their  landlord's  directions.     John  Kelly,  a  little 
cottar  on  Mr.  Fitzmaurice's  eftate,  is  a  ftrong 
inftance  of  this,   and  his  rrjode  of  doing  it,   has 
been  by  paring  and  burning,  and  fpreading  the 
afhes.     He  then  puts  in  potatoes  immediately, 
gets  good  crops,  then  good  oats,  and  would,  if 
he  was  able,  fow  grafs  feeds. 

Sunday,    Aii2;uft    26th,    to  the  Right  Hon- 
Jofhua  Cooper's,   at  Mercra,  who  not  only  re- 

ceii 


o 


28  M    R    R    C    R    A. 


ceived  me  with  the  utmoft  politenefs,  hut  was 
fo  obliging  as  to  fend  for  a  neighbouring  gen- 
tleman, in  order  between  them,  with  other 
afTiit.ance,  to  anfwer  all  my  queiiions,  which 
•was  done  in  the  molt  attentive  and  fatisfactory 
manner.  About  which  place  the  rent  of  land, 
on  an  average,  1  5s.  Some  of  the  mountains, 
that  are  not  lime-fione,  let  for  very  little,  2s. 
but  the  lime-fione  ones  are  good  land  univer- 
fally,  and  yield  almoft  as  high  rent  as  the  reft 
of  the  country.  Farms  in  culture  are  exceed- 
ingly fmall,  the  poor  people  divide  and  take 
them  in  partnership,  four  or  five  to  a  plough 
land  of  100  acres,  but  they  fubdivide  down  to 
five  or  fix  acres,  and  in  general  ail  the  tillage 
is  done  by  thefe  little  occupiers.  There  are 
fome  large  grazing  farms  up  to  above  1000 
acres,  which  are  under  fheep  and  bullocks. 
One  feventh  of  the  county  may  be  reckoned 
bog,  and  unimproved  mountain,  "and  the  other 
6-7ths,  r  5s.  Mayo  one  third,  perhaps  half, 
bog  and  mountain,  and  two-thirds,  at  1 2s. 
Galway  more  than  one-third  bog,  mountain 
and  lakes.  The  courfes  of  crops  purfued 
here  ; 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley.  3.  Cats.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.  6.  Oats.  7.  Oats,  8.  Left  out  feven 
years  to  fheep. 

I.  Potatoes.  2.  Flax.  3.  Barley.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.  6.  Oats.  7.  Oats.  8.  Oats.  9. 
Lay  out. 

1.  Pota- 


M    E    R    C    R    A.  329 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Flax.  3.  Barley.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.     6.  Oats.     7.  Potatoes. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley,  which  is  the  bed 
courfe  I  have  met  with  in  Ireland.  Wheat  is 
coming  in  in  the  following  courfe, 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Wheat.  3.  Oats,  4  or  5 
years.  Some  wheat  on  fummer  fallow.  Grafs 
land  hired  for  potatoes,  at  5I.  if  not  an  acre,  is 

Rent                                    -  o   15     o 

Ceis                  -                 -                  -  004 

Try  the                 -                                 -  000 

Manuring  labour,  10  men,  and  3  horfes  1      5     o 

Seed,  thirty  pecks,  each  6d.                -  0150 

Putting  in  firft  digging,  30  men,  at  6d.  -       o  15     o 

Second  covering,  fhovelling  ditto            -  o  15     o 

Third  ditto,  fifteen  men                    -  076 

Weeding,  eight  men                -               -  040 

Digging  up,  fixtymenaday                 -  1    10     o 

Picking  and  gathering,  one  man  to  four  -076 

Carrying  home,  five  men  and  five  horles  -050 

Picking  over  and  fhifling                    -  050 

£•744 

Produce. 

300  pecks,  56 \b.  each,  at  6d.  per  peck  7    10     O 

If  they,  which  is   very  common, 

hiregrafs  land  for  it,  the  rent  is 
4L  4s.  on  an  average,  then 

Rent  -         -  -  "  -440 

Oilier  expenfes  as  before  -         -         -         690 

10   13     o 
Produce. 


330  M    E    R    C    R    A. 

Produce. 
Three  hundred  and  fifty  pecks,  at  6d. 


Profit         -         £:  i    1 8     o 

Many  arc  planted  in  bogs  that  are  drained  -y 
they  are  the  firft  thing  they  plant,  manuring 
with  both  lime-ftone  gravel  and  dung,  the  firft 
will  not  do  alone,  very  little  dung  will  do:  the 
crops  are  fuperior  in  quantity  to  thofe  from  any 
other  land,  they  will  get  50  pecks  more  than 
from  the  grafs  land.  They  feed  their  cows  and 
pigs  with  them  when  plentiful.  Mr.  O'Hara  of 
Nymph sfield  fatted  many  bullocks  with  them, 
and  found  that  they  did  exceedingly  well.  Of 
barley  they  fow  a  barrel  per  acre,  which  is  here 
14  ftone,  and  get  on  an  average  14  barrels  an 
acre.  In  Terrera  barony  they  get  great  crops, 
fometimes  20  barrels  an  acre.  They  fow  2  bar- 
rels of  12  ftonc  of  oats,  the  mean  produce  10 
barrels,  fome  not  above  5  or  6.  Of  wheat  they 
fow  1 2  ftonc,  and  the  crop  6  barrels.  Every 
body  fows  a  patch  of  flax ;  a  farming  cottar, 
with  6  or  7  acres,  will  fow  6  or  8  gallons.  The 
quantity  of  feed  40  gallons  per  acre.  The  va- 
lue fold  on  the  foot  is  in  general  81.  and  the  crop 
is  calculated  that  a  gallon  of  feed  produces  a 
ftone  of  fcutched  ffax,  or  40  ftone  per  acre. 
The  quantity  of  waftc  improved  is  very  confi- 
derable  •,  it  is  moory  mountain,  about  1 2  inches 
deep.  In  much  of  this,  immediately  under  the 
moor,  is  a  thin  ftraium  of  what  they  call  lack- 
clay,  which  is  like  baked  clay,  the  thicknefs  of 
a  tile,  and  no  water  gets  through  it.    Under  it 

lime- 


M    E    R    C    R    A.  331 

lime-done  gravel.  Trenching  the  land  for  po- 
tatoes, breaks  this  ftratum,  and  lets  the  water 
through  at  once,  and  no  other  drains  are  necef- 
fary.  In  Iefs  than  a  century,  almoit  the  whole 
country,  as  well  as  Rofcommon,  was  a  moor. 
The  mode  taken  has  been  by  lime-done  gravel 
chiefly,  and  this  goes  on  fo  much,  that  the 
moors  are  worth  a  considerable  rent ;  the  crops 
they  give  at  firfl  are  very  great.  The  expenfe 
of  gravelling  is  2I.  2s.  an  acre.  2000  horfe- 
loads  in  bafkets  on  their  backs  is  the  quantity, 
it  changes  the  nature  both  of  moors  and  clays 
intirely,  and  lafts  for  ever. 

In  this  country  there  are  large  tracts  of  grafs 
land,  which  will  rear  the  largeft  oxen,  but  will 
not  fatten  them  ;  but  if  gravelled,  will  fatten 
them  perfectly.  Lime  not  ufed  as  a  manure  in 
common,  though  there  is  an  amazing  quantity 
in  the  country  -,  the  price  of  burning  will  be 
four-pence  halfpenny  a  barrel  of  roach  lime. 
A  barrel  of  turf  will  burn  a  barrel  of  lime ;  a 
barrel  of  turf  is  one-third  of  a  kifh.  Turf 
mold  laid  on  a  clay  meadow  will  give  one  good 
crop.  The  fyftem  of  cattle  is  various ;  the  gra- 
ziers upon  good  grafs  buy  in  cows  in  the  month 
of  May,  at  3I.  10s.  average,  and  fell  out  in 
November  and  October,  at  a  profit  of  il.  10s. 
alfo  buy  oxen  3  year  old  in  October,  give  them 
coarfe  hay,  and  fell  them  fat  or  in  good  order 
the  autumn  following;  buy  in  at  4I.  jos.  and 
fell  out  at  7I.  and  he  will  take  for  meadow 
half  an  acre  of  hay,  and  one  and  a  half  for 
fummcr;  befides  which  there  will  be  one  met-p 

and 


332  M    E    R    C    R    A. 

and  a  half  per  acre  the  year  through,  which 
will  pay  i  2s.  Upon  worfe  land  they  go  into 
the  fucceffion  fyflem,  which  is  buying  year 
olds  at  25s.  on  an  average:  thefe,  as  well  as 
the  preceding  for  cattle,  which  at  4  year  old 
come  to  5  cwt.  which  is  the  common  llze  of 
the  county.  He  keeps  them  3  years,  and  felling 
them  lean  at  4I.  ics.  but  thefe  fyftems  are  al- 
ways united  on  the  fame  farm,  as  they  have  all 
forts  of  cattle  to  fuit  different  foils.  No  dairies. 

The  fheep  fyftem  is  not  of  confequence,  for 
there  are  fcarce  any  flocks  kept.  Twenty  years 
ago  the  baronies  of  Corra  and  Terrera  were 
continued  iheep-wTalks  -,  but  now  the  former  is 
all  potatoes  and  barley,  and  much  of  the  lat- 
ter is  broken  up,  fo  that  upon  the  whole  tillage 
has  gained  very  much  on  grafs.  The  fheep 
there  kept  are  both  fattening  and  breeding; 
they  keep  their  lambs  till  three  year  wethers, 
and  fell  them  fat  at  16s.  that  is,  1 81b.  a  quarter, 
at  cd.  a  lb.  The  ewe  lambs  will  be  kept,  and 
old  ewes  culled  and  fold  off  half  fat,  at  ios» 
The  fleeces  on  the  average  of  the  whole  will  be 
4 lb.  Mr.  Ormfby  gets  8  and  10  lb.  from  his 
wethers.  Swine  increafirig,  no  pork  exported 
from  Sligo  till  laft  year,  but  now  they  are  get- 
ting into  it.  Horfes  are  ufed  for  tillage  only, 
4  in  a  plough  abreaft,  and  forne  harrowing  ftill 
done  by  the  tail-,  they  will  plough  half  an 
an  acre  a  day,  or  more  commonly  three  days  to 
an  acre.  Upon  wet  lands  they  plough  into 
ridges  arched,  but  never  water  furrow.  They 
know  nothing  of  cutting  chaff,  but  let  the  wind 
blow  that  of  their  crops  away.     As  to  hiring 

and 


M    E    R     C    R     A.  333 

and  {locking  farms,  they  manage  to  as  to  do 
without  capital  ;  a  grazier  will  re-let  to  his 
cottars  as  much  of  his  land  as  high  as  he  can  \ 
enough  to  pay  his  rent  or  near  it,  and  as  to 
the  poor  fellow,  he  manages  with  very  little. 
3I.  per  acre  will  do  for  buying  the  cattle  for  a 
grazing  farm. 

Land  fells  at  20  years  purchafe,  rack  rent. 
The   rents  are  lefs  than  5   or  6  years  ago,  but 
are  rather  rifing  at  prefent.     Tythes  are  gene- 
rally taken  in  kind-,  they  are  let  to  tythe  proc- 
tors, who  are  paid  wheat  8s.    Barley  6s.    Oats 
4s.     Flax  8s.     Potatoes  none  tythed   in  Con- 
naught.    Hay  3s.    Leafes  3  lives,   or  31  years. 
Much  of  it  let  on  leafes  renewable  for  ever. 
Middlemen,  who  occupy  none,  is  a  practice 
declining,    but  not  gone  out.     Two   bolting 
mills  erected,  which  begin  to  encreafe  the  crops 
of  wheat,  and  promife  to  change  the  face  of 
the  country.  The  people  throughout  it  increafe 
very  fail  mod  undoubtedly.    Their  circumftan- 
ces  in  general  are  infinitely  better  than  20  years 
ago  j  they  are  cloathed  and  fed  better,  are  much 
more  induftrious ;  fpalpeens  going  from  hence 
decline  much,  and  will   foon  be  entirely  out. 
Rent  of  a  cabbin  and  garden  20s.    The  grafs 
of  a  cow  30s.    There  were  fome  emigrations 
to  America,  but  not  confiderable,  and  fome  of 
them   are  come   back  again.     The  religion  in 
general  catholic  ;  but  more  protectants  than  in 
any  other  county  in  Connaught.     In  the  baro- 
nies of  Liny  and  Corra,  there  are  many  Mile- 
fian  irifh  ;  in  Mayo  more  ft  ill,  all  of  the  Spanifh 
breed.     The  food  of  the  poor  people  is  pota- 
toes, 


334  M    E    R    C    R    A. 

toes,  milk,  and  herrings,  with  oaten  bread  in 
fummer;  all  keep  cows,  not  pigs,  and  but  a  few 
poultry.  They  have  an  abfolute  bellyfull  of 
potatoes,  and  the  children  eat  them  as  plenti- 
fully as  they  like.  The  average  price  of  oat- 
meal fomething  lefs  than  id.  a  pound.  All  of 
them  have  a  bit  of  cabbages.  They  prefer  oat 
bread  both  to  potatoes  and  to  wheat  bread.  All 
afford  whifkey.  A  year's  turf  will  coft  a  family 
30s.  The  common  people  are  fo  amazingly  ad- 
dicted to  thieving  every  thing  they  can  lay  their 
hands  on,  that  they  will  unfhoe  the  horfes  in 
the  field  in  the  barony  of  Liny^  they  are  alfo 
lyars  from  their  cradle,  but  wonderfully  faga- 
eious,  cunning,  and  artful. 

Within  10  miles  of  this,  in  Leitrim,  is  :i 
s^reat  country  of  good  coal  near  the  furface; 
but  for  want  of  being  well  worked,  fells  at  7s. 
a  ton  :  and  near  Ballyfodare  is  a  lead  mine,  but 
not  worked  with  fuccefs,  though  very  rich.  As 
to  the  linen  manufactory,  it  has  made  fome 
progrefsi  there  are  6  bleach  greens  in  the 
county,  and  there  are  many  weavers.  Spin- 
ning isuniverfal  in  all  the  cabbins.  A  woman 
will  earn  two-pence  halfpenny  at  it.  The  rents 
are  moftly  paid  by  yarn. 

Mr.  Cooper  has  reclaimed,  and  is  reclaiming 
65  acres  of  bog,  which  is  12  fret  deep,  and 
was  fo  wet  and  rotten,  that  no  animal  could  go 
on  it  without  being  fwallqwed  up  :  much  of 
it  had  been  fo  mangled  and  cut  in  holes  to  get 
turf,  that  the  levelling  in  order  for  the  plough 
was  put  out  at  il.  10s.  an  acre.     A  great  drain 


M    E    R    C    R    A.  335 

was  made  round  it  9  feet  broad  at  top,   1  o  deep, 
and  quite  narrow  at  bottom,  and  repeated  thcfe 
drains,  but  not  fo  large  at  the  diitance  of  60 
yards  from  each  other.    A  drain  of  9  feet  wide 
at  top,   and  6  deep,  eofls  1  od.  a  perch.     The 
above  drains  were  done  by  the  day.     In  one 
year  after,  the  bog  was  dry  enough  to  plough, 
which  he  did,  and  burnt  the  furrow  and  fowed 
rape:  the  crop  middling,   eat   it   with   fheep. 
The  fecond  year  ploughed  and  burnt  it  again, 
and  had  a  fecond  crop  of  rape ;  after  which 
another    year     of     rape    and     turnips,    and 
it  now  lies  with  the  graffes  that  came  of  them- 
felves  after  thefe  operations :  it  is  but  indiffer- 
ent, except  in  one  place  where  fome  lime-ftone 
gravel  was  fcattered,  and  there  it  is  good,  pro- 
mifmg  well.   Adjoining  the  bbg  is  a  wet  fpringy 
bank  fall  of  rulhes,  from  which  Mr.  Cooper 
apprehends  the  water  comes  that  breaks  out  in 
the  bog,  which  it  docs  in  a  few  places,  for  want 
of  the  {unrounding  drain  on  that  fide   being 
completed.    To  fiich  as  have  bogs  to  improve, 
he  would  recommend  to  furround  the  fpace  to 
be  improved  with  a  drain  fo  deep  as  to  go  to 
the  gravel,  which  is  a  point  he  thinks  very  ne- 
ceffary  $  as  when  this  is  done,  if  there  is  any 
fall  at  all  for  the  water,  the  drain  will  keep 
open,  and  not  clofe  up,  as  it  will  do  if  not  fo 
deep,  for  want  of  a  hardfurface  for  the  water 
to  run  off  on.     A  year  after  this  work,  plough 
it,  burn  the  furrow,  and  fow  rape  for  ilieep 
food,  levelling  the  land  by  ploughing  and  burn- 
ing ;  and  repeat  this  till  level,  or  if  there  is  any 
dung,  potatoes  is  much  the  bed  crop,  and  will 
be  a  great  produce,    As  foon  as  the  land  is  level, 

fow 


336  M     E     R     C     R     A. 

fow  oats  and  hay  feeds,  and  when  there"  h  a 
fkin  of  turf  gained,  then  carry  on  the  lime-fione 
gravel  in  preference  to  every  thing  ejlfei  if  k  is 
to  be  had  :  the  effec't  of  which  is  fo  ftrong  as  to 
change  heath  to  white  clover  at  once  upon 
dramed  land.  The  more  fbapy  the  gravei  is  the 
better:  and  Mr.  Cooper,  from  experience,  knows 
that  it  would  then  fet  as  meadow  at  30s.  an 
acre  as  long  as  it  was  kept  trom  returning  to 
its  original  Hate.  As -to  the  quantity  of  drain- 
ing, cutting  it  into  oblongs  of  300  yards  by  60, 
would  be  fully  fufficient:  thefe  have  laid  his 
bog  dry. 

Turnips  Mr.  Cooper  has  cultivated  thefe  ry 
years  regularly,  with  great  fuccefs,  for  ftall- 
feeding  oxen,  and  has  found  them  of  great  ufe. 
Cabbages  he  has  had  thefe  four  ye^rs,  the  Scotch 
fort,  borecole,  and  Reynold's  turnip-cabbage; 
thefe  he  has  ufed  for  fattening  fheep,  and  never 
had  iuch  fheep  as  by  this  means.  He  prefers 
cabbages  to  turnips,  much  for  ail  ufes,  can  get 
larger  crops,  and  what  he  gets  goes  farther,  and 
are  much  preferred  by  both  cattle  and  fheep: 
after  them,  he  has  got  exceeding  fine  barley.  In 
the  breed  of  cattle  Mr.  Cooper  lias  taken  pains 
to  improve  by  means  of  a  Lancashire  bull,  of 
Mr.  Parker's  breed,  and  this  with  fuch  fuccefs, 
that  his  cattle  are  all  very  fine,  large,  and  well 
made;  all  Lancafhire  long  horns,  with  a  mix- 
ture of  the  Stafford  and  Warwick.  Ke  has  alio 
found  that  this  improvement  of  the  breed  for 
fatting  has  not  hurt  his  dairy,  for  his  cows  give 
8  quarts  of  milk  at  a  meal,  which  is  efteemed 
very  well  here:  for  fattening  the  breed  is  ex- 
cellent 


M    E    R    C    R    A.  337 

cellent.     Oxen  he  has  ufed  for  tillage,  &c.  1 8 
years,  inftead  of  horfes  ;  works  them  in  com- 
mon yokes,  and  bows  4  or  6  in  a  plough  •,  but 
he  thinks  that  four  horfes  will  do  more  work 
in  a  day  than  four  oxen :  yet  finds  the  latter 
incomparably  the  moft  profitable.    Mules  he 
finds  of  the  greateft  ufe.    They  are  much  longer 
lived  than  horfes,  hardier,  eafier  fed,  and  more 
profitable  :  but  this  is  principally  applicable  to 
the  fmall  Irifti  mule,  and  not  the   large  ones 
from  Spanifh  aflcs,  which  are  not  fo  hardy,  and 
more  liable  to  diforders.     They  are  never  fed 
fo  well.as  horfes,  yet  go  through  more  labour: 
and  are   much  fuperior  to  them  for  carrying 
burdens.     One  caution,    however,  mould  be 
ufed  in  relation  to  their  food.     If  wheat  ftraw 
is  cut  into  chaff  and  given,  it  will  kill   them; 
the  late  bifhop  of  Elphin  loft  all  his  mutes  by 
it.     Mr.  Cooper  has  fattened  many  hogs  on  po- 
tatoes, and  he  has  found  that  raw  potatoes  will 
fatten  them  very  well,  but  the  fat  will  be  flabby 
and  greafy :  but  if  the  potatoes  are  parboiled, 
and  well  iprinkled  with  fait,  the  flefh  will  be 
firm,  and  perfectly  good.    He  once  tried  fatten- 
ing a  cow  on  them,  and  fhe  did  admirably,  but 
eat  fo  much,  that  at  the  very  lowcft  price  it 
would  not  anfwer  to  give  them.     He  has  im- 
proved much  land  by  hollow  draining,  has  done 
it  with  fods,   and  found  that  it  anfwers  per- 
fedly. 

Sligo  is  the  only  fea-port  of  this  country,  and 
the  ftate  of  its  trade  may  be  taken,  as  no  bad  ex- 
planation of  the  improvement  of  the  country 
around  it  with  which  it  communicates. 

Vol.  I.  Z  A  view 


338  S      L      I      G      O. 

A  view  of  the  duties  on  imports  and  exports  in  the  port  ofSligo 
for  twenty  years,   ending  Lady-day,  1775. 


Years. 

imports. 

E 

x  ports. 

1756 

£■  1208 

11 

4 

£.26 

II 

7 

1757 

216 

12 

0 

15 

l3 

10 

»758, 

425 

10 

1 

23 

1 1 

11 

1759 

504 

u 

6 

45 

i 

0 

I760 

5.8. 

9 

8 

45 

6 

3 

1761 

3S4 

19 

4 

5i 

13 

0 

1762 

640 

6 

11 

73 

17 

11 

1763 

1017 

1 1 

7 

104 

17 

7 

1764 

1187 

15 

3 

J3* 

2 

1765 

1458 

9 

4 

102 

17 

0 

I766 

406 

12 

7 

120 

1 

4 

1/67 

486 

7 

2 

92 

17 

7 

I768 

1178 

12 

-2 

160 

8 

6 

1769 

998 

H 

6 

487 

17 

2 

I77O 

1122 

2 

4 

523 

6 

7 

im 

1554 

19 

0 

309 

2 

0 

1772 

841 

16 

7 

471 

9 

1 

1773 

2477 

17 

1 1 

835 

11 

10 

1774 

2418 

5 

4 

73° 

11 

4 

1775 

2256 

8 

1 

956 

0 

6 

Mr.  Cooper  has  remarked,  that  the  great 
improvement  of  this  part  of  Ireland  commenced 
about  the  year  1748,  and  that  rents  now  are, 
to  what  they  were  before  that  period,  as  fifteen 
to  fix.  Some  farms  bought  in  1725,  at  $s.  6d. 
an  acre,  and  20  years  purchafe,  are  now  let 
at  1 8s. 

Auguft  26th,  left  Mercra,  and  went  to  Bal- 
lafadore,  when  I  had  great  pleafure  in  viewing 
the  falls;  the  river  breaks  over  rocks  in  the 
moft  romantic  manner,  from  edge  to  edge,  in 
many  falls,  for  the  fpace  of  two  hundred  yards 
before  it  comes  to  the  principal  one,  which  is 
twelve  or  fourteen  feet  perpendicular;  the 
fcenery  about  it  is  bold,  the  features  of  the 

moun- 


T    A    N    R    E    G    O.         339 

mountains  are  great,  and  Knocknaree  in  full  re- 
lief j  if  the  falls  were  through  a  dark  wood,  the 
fcenery  would  be  among  the  fineft  in  the  world. 

To  Tanrego,  the  feat  of  Lewis  Irwin,  Efq; 
(who  favoured  me  with  feveral  articles  of  ufeful 
intelligence)  fitv.ated  in  the  barony  of  Tyrera, 
which  is  twenty-feven  miles  long,  and  cultivated 
from  one  and  an  halt  to  three  in  breadth,  by  the 
fea  fide ;  lets  from  J  2s.  to  17s.  an  acre,  a  little 
for  20s.  The  foil  a  light  fandy  loam,  on  lime- 
ilone,  one  foot  to  two  deep,  farms  are  in  ge- 
neral from  20  to  30  acres  j  many  taken  in  part- 
nership, four  to  eight  families  take  200  acres. 

I.  Manure  with  wrack  for  potatoes.  2.  Pota- 
toes. 3.  Barley.  4.  Barley.  5.  Oats. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley.  3.  Oats.  4.  Potatoes 
again. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley.  3.  Oats.  4.  Lay  out 
for  grafs. 

No  feeds,  in  one  or  two  years  white  clover 
will  come  if  not  over  cropped.  For  potatoes, 
from  100  to  150  horfe  loads  fea  wreed,  mix  no 
dung  with  it.  Plant  12  pecks,  each  561b.  and 
get  12  to  20  fold,  that  is  144  to  249  pecks.  Of 
barley  they  get  1 3  or  4  narrels  per  acre.  Of 
Oats,  10  barrels.  They  burn  vatt  quantities  of 
kelp,  in  the  whole  barony,  300  tons,  all  ia 
fummer  ;  in  winter  or  fpring  they  manure  with 
it.  The  brown  alga,  which  is  the  more  luxu- 
riant, and  fuller  of  the  faponaceous  liquid, 
they  don't  manure  with,  thinking  it  too  ftron^ 
for  the  land,  burning  it  up  as  thev  call  it  -}  but 

"Z  2,  if 


340         T    A    N    R    E    G    O. 

if  they  would  lay  it  in  heaps  till  rotten,  or  made* 
comports,  neither  of  which  they  ever  do  at  all, 
this  would  not  be  the  cafe.    They  manure  with 
it  every  fix  or  feven  years.     Mr.  Irwin  fpreads 
it  in  his  pound  upon  a  flratum  of  potatoe  flalks, 
and  over  both  one  of  turf  and  mould,  for  cattle 
to  tread  on  to  manure,  this  is  a  moil  excellent 
practice.   The  mountains  nearefl  to  the  fea,  are 
chiefly  flocked  with  lheep,  and  farther  in,  with 
young  cattle  near  the  bog.     Upon  a   part  of 
thefe  mountains,  of  three  miles  in  extent,  what- 
ever fheep  feed,  are  immediately  killed  by  the 
flaggers,  and  horfes  affected  -,  there  is  a  good 
deal  of  lime-flone,  and  the  land  is  dry,  and  to 
appearance,  and  in  fact,  good;  it  fattens  bul- 
locks; it  is  attributed  to  the  lead  mines,  which 
this  part  is  fuppofed  to  be  full  of.     When  firft 
affected,  if  brought  down  to  a  fait  marfh,  it  re- 
covers them  immediately.     Within  a  few  miles 
of  Tanrego,  is  Glanefk,  and  Loch  Alt,  fix  to 
ten  miles  broad,  and   20  long,  one  continued 
chain  of  mountain  and  bog.     Threerfourths  of 
Siigo  bog,  and  uncultivated  mountain.    In  the 
above  tract,  lime-flone  every  where,  in  fome, 
lime-flone  gravel,  and  a  good  road  runs  through 
it  j  in  all  this  no  cultivation  or  improvements. 
Mr.  Irwin,  upon  a  part  of  this  country,  tried 
about  an  acre  of  boggy,  moory  mountain,  to  fee 
if  paring  and  burning  would  do,   it  anfwered 
greatly,  and  the  belt  potatoes  in  the  country 
were  there  next  year.     Lime  he  alfo  tried,  and 
with  great  fuccefs  ;  he  did  this  in  order  to  fhew 
the  people  that  their  wafles  were  improveable. 
Upon  the  fea-fhore  are  immenfe  beds  of  oyfler 

fhells, 


S  O  R  T  L  A  N  D.  341 

(hells,  which  are  burnt  into  lime  for  building 
and  plaiftering,   as  they  take  much  lefs  fuel ; 
thefe  hills  received  no  little  increafe  from  all  the 
gentlemen  of  the  interior  country  coming  to  the 
fea-coaft  to  eat  oyfters,  where  having  filled  them- 
felves  fufiiciently  in  the  mornings,   they  got 
drunk  in  the  evening  ;  this  was  in  thez/zzcivj- 
lized  times.     Moft  of  the   gentlemen  of  this 
country  were  Cromwell's  foldiers,   and  many 
Welch  families,  Jones's,  Morgan's,  Wynn's,  &c. 
In  the  barony  of  Tyrera  flax  is  univerfally  cul- 
tivated ;  a  man  with  20  acres  will  have  a  rood, 
which  is  fown  with  five  gallons  of  feed ;  all  the 
females  fpin,  but  the  number  of  weavers  is  in- 
confiderable.     Walked  down  to  the   coaft  of 
Tanrego,    immediately,  oppofite    Knocknaree, 
which  rifes  very  boldly;  the  bay  of  Ballyfadore 
comes  up  under  it,  and  Ylanabaolane  ifland  of 
five  or  fix  acres,  fo  rich,    that  it  will  fatten  9 
fheep  an  acre  -,  it  forms  Sligo  bay. 

To  Sortland,  the  feat  of Browne,  Efq; 

to  whom  I  am  obliged  for  the  following  parti- 
culars. 

The  barony  of  Tyreragh,  black  mold  on  lime- 
(tone  6  inches  to  a  foot  deep,  lets  at  1 8s.  aver- 
age. The  farms  are  various,  generally  taken 
in  partnership,  which  is  found  a  moft  mifchiev- 
ous  cuftom,  and  deftru&ive  to  all  good  hufban- 
dry.     The  courfe  j 

1.  Potatoes  manured  with  fea-weed.  2.  Bar- 
ley produce  15  barrels.  3.  Oats  10  barrels.  4. 
Oats.    Very  little  ever  laid  out  to  grafs. 

i.Pota- 


342  S  O  R  T  L  A  N  D. 

i.  Potatoes.    2.  Barley.    3.  Oats.    4.  Flax  on 
jfpots. 

The  fea-weed  the  only  manure,  and  they  de- 
pend intirely  on  it,  and  apt  to  do  that  too  much 
neglecting  other  parts  of  management.  The 
circumftances  of  the  people  are  not  at  all  im- 
proved in  20  years,  they  are  not  better  fed  or 
cloathed,  or-in  any  refped  better  off  than  for- 
merly. Nor  are  they  at  all  induftrious,  even  of 
fea-weed  they  do  not  make  one  half  the  advant- 
age they  could,  they  might  get  an  hundred 
loads  where  they  get  one.  They  increafe  in 
number  very  greatly,  fo  as  to  be  evidently 
crowded ;  this  has  been  the  cafe  particularly 
fince  inoculation  was  introduced,  which  was 
about  ten  years  ago.  They  live  upon  potatoes 
and  milk,  and  for  3  months  in  the  year,  on  oat- 
meal. Mr.  Browne  is  convinced  from  every  ob- 
fervation,  that  the  potatoes  arc  a  very  whole- 
fome  and  nourishing  food.  The  linen  manu- 
facture confifts  only  in  fpinning,  which  is  uni- 
verfal  in  ail  the  cabbins,  and  it  is  fomuch,  that 
they  are  affifted  by  it,  in  paying  their  rents. 
They  earn  3d.  a  day  by  fpinning  :  one  lb.  of 
flax  for  3  hank  yarn  a  woman  is  4  days  ipin- 
ning. 

Within  a  mile  of  Sortland  is  a  vafl  bog,  which 
ftretches  10  miles  in  length,  and  2  or  3  over. 
It  is  a  black  one,  16  fpit  deep.  There  are  hil- 
locks in  it  of  lime-ftone  gravel,  but  lime-ftone 
is  not  to  be  found  near  it  in  general,  though  not 
Searched  for  with  any  attention,  ft  is,  however, 
fo  cheap  here  that  any  improvements  might  be 
worked  5  Mr.  Browne  can  burn  it  at  3d.  a  bar- 
rel 


S  O  R  T  L  A  N  D.  343 

rel  roach.     He  hires  1 100  acres  of  this  bog,  of 
Mr.  King  of  Ballina,  at  4I.  a  year,  though  he  has 
not  improved  it,  has  no  doubt  of  its  being  im- 
proveable,  and  remarks  that  he  never  yet  faw 
a  bog  that  had  not  a  fail  enough  to  drain  by.    In 
the  barony  of  Tyreragh,  there  are  a  few  grazing 
farmers,  but  not  many.    Mr.  Nefbit  is  the  great- 
eft,  he  farms  above  3000  acres.     Not  a  3d  of 
the  county  is  bog  and  mountain,  but  more  than 
half  Mayo  is  fo :    average  rent  of  the  whole 
county,  exclullveof  bog  and  mountain,  16s.  an 
acre.     The  fhore  is  a  very  fruitful  one  in  fea- 
weed,  which  is  burnt  into  kelp  in  fummer ;  they 
pay  a  rent  for  it  by  the  ton  of  what  they  get.    , 

From  the  ilate  quarry  to  Ennifcrone,  9  miles, 
they  make  200  tons  of  kelp.  The  men  have  17s. 
to  20s.  a  ton  For  fervine,  making,  and  burning, 
and  it  fells  at  2I.  as.  There  is  not  half  fo  much 
ufed  in  manure  as  in  burning.  It  is  made  all 
the  way  from  this  country  to  Galway.  Mules, 
Mr.  Browne  thinks  fuperior  to  horfes,  for  car- 
rying back  loads,  but  much  inferior  in  drawing 
ploughs  and  cars.  They  are  fo  long  lived,  that 
the  age  is  fcarce  ever  afked  when  they  are  bought; 
they  will  live  in  common,  in  full  work,  to  30 
years.  They  will  alfo  in  bog,  draw  out  their 
legs  infinitely  better,  though  they  go  deeper  in. 
From  100  ewes,  Mr.  Browne  fells  100  three 
year  old  wethers,  fat,  at  18s.  to  20s.  alfo  20  old 
ewes  at  13s.  300  fleeces  at  41b.  at  is.  or  45I. 
Buys  in  yearling  bullocks  at  40s.  and  fells  out  at 
7I.  gets  thereby  5L  for  keeping  2  years  and  a 
half.     No  hay  given,  except  in  fnovv.     He  has 

improved 


344  B  A  L  L  Y  N  A. 

improved  20  acres  of  dry  moor  from  heath,  it 
would  not  yield  any  rent,  but  now  would  let  for 
1  5s.  an  acre.  The  moor  was  one  foot  deep  on 
lack  clay ,  and  under  that  a  loofe  gravel,  not 
lime-flone.  Marled  it  at  the  rate  of  1  50  barrels  an 
acre,  which  colt,  in  labour  5s.  white  marie  from 
under  a  bog ;  fpread  it,  and  left  it  for  a  year, 
which  killed  the  heath  effe&ually,  then  plough- 
ed it  twice,  and  took  two  fucceffive  crops  of  po- 
tatoes, without  dung,  the  mil  an  extraordinary 
one,  the  fecond  not  bad  :  then  two  crops  of  bar- 
ley, which  were  very  good  :  then  oats.  2  crops, 
both  very  good,  and  then  fet  it  at  15s.  an  acre. 
If  he  had  ever  fuch  quantities  of  fuch  land,  he 
would  never  flop  from  the  improvement  of  it, 
being  amazingly  profitable. 

Augufl  the  27th  to  Ballyna,  where  I  experi- 
enced the  moil  polite  reception  from  the  Right 
Honourable  Mr.  King ;  the  views  of  the  diftant 
mountains  is  very  fine ;  the  country  is  almofl 
encompafTed  by  them.  Thole  of  Donnegal  to 
the  right,  a  great  rid^e,  wThich  feparates  Tyre- 
ragh  to  the  left,  Nephin- noble  in  the  front,  and 
Knockaree  behind.  Many  kilns  for  drying  corn 
in  the  road.  Faffed  three  miles  of  pafturage  un- 
der cattle,  before  I  came  to  the  river  leading  to 
Ballyna.  The  views  there  are  very  beautiful,  it 
fpreads  in  different  reaches.  That  of  Ballyna  is 
•uncommonly  pleafing  j  the  river  a  noble  bend  to 
a  few  riling  grounds  on  which  a  fjart  of  the 
town  is  feen  ;  beyond  it  the  bridge,  and  the 
whole  crowned  by  the  Nephin  mountain,  which 

rifes 


B  A  L  L  Y  N  A.  345 

rifes  with  a  magnificent  regularity  from  its  bafe, 
and  is  one  of  the  fineft  mountains  I  have  feen. 

At  Ballyna  is  a  falmon  fifliery,  let  for  520!. 
a  year,  which  is  one  of  the  moft  confiderable  in, 
the  kingdom  -,  generally  feventy  or  eighty  tons 
falted,  hefides  the  frefn.  Clofe  almofl  to  this 
fifhery  is  a  very  pretty,  and  well-planted  farm, 
belonging  to  Mr.  Jones.  Mr.  Lindfay,  the 
owner  of  this  fifhery,  improved  16  acres  of 
moor,  covered  with  heath,  in  the  following 
manner:  he  covered  it  with  lime-Hone  gravel, 
at  the  expenfe  of  30s.  an  acre,  left  it  two  years, 
by  which  time  the  heath  was  all  dead;  then 
ploughed  it  the  end  of  fummer,  and  in  a  month 
harrowed  it ;  ploughed  it  and  harrowed  it  again 
after  Chriftmas,  and  in  the  fpring  fet  it  to  poor 
people,  for  potatoes,  at  4I.  an  acre  ;  they  got  a 
very  good  crop ;  next  year  ploughed  it,  and  fet 
it  for  a  fecond  crop,  reverfing  the  ridges,  at 
three  guineas.  After  this  crop,  barley,  and  got 
a  good  crop,  fowing  grafs  feeds  with  it., 

Mr.  Gore  of  Ballyna,  had  been  mentioned 
to  me  as  one  of  the  moft  confiderable  in  cattle 
of  any  perfon  in  Connaught;  be  was  not  at 
home,  but  his  fon-in-!aw,  the  Right  Hon.  Mr. 
King,  was  fokind  as  to  procure  me  the  particu- 
lars of  his  domain.  Mr.  Gore's  breed  of  horned 
cattle  is  fine.  Some  years  ago  he  fold  heifers  at 
50I.  a  piece,  and  now  from  ten  to  twenty  gui- 
neas j  the  breed  not  declined,  but  purchafers 
not  quite  fo  m;id  as  thev  were.  Yearling  bulls 
20  guineas.     This  breed  he  got  from  Yorkfhire 

30  or 


346  E    R    R    I    S. 

30  or  40  years  ago.  His  breed  of  fheep  Is  alfb 
excellent,  being  much  improved  by  rams  from 
England.  He  improves  much  moory  land  and 
bog,  generally  1  o  or  15  acres  every  year,  by 
lime-ftone  gravel  and  marie.  Average  rent  of 
Tyreragh  1 2s.  Walked  in  the  evening  to  a 
moft  noble  garden,  walled  and  planted  by  Mr. 
King :  it  is  one  of  the  completed  I  have  feen  in 
Ireland. 

Auguft  28th,  took  my  departure  from  Balli- 
na,  and  waited  on  the  bifhop  of  Killala.  I  wifhed 
to  have  fome  information  concerning  that  vail 
wild  and  impenetrable  tracl  of  mountain  and 
bog,  the  barony  of  Erris.  His  Lordfhip  and 
Mr.  Hutchefon  were  fo  kind  as  to  give  me  every 
particular  in  their  power.  The  only  cultivated 
part  is  the  peninfula  called  the  Mullet,  where 
they  plant  a  good  deal  of  potatoes,  barley,  and 
flax,  by  means  of  fea  weed ;  and  there  is  a  rab- 
bit warren,  the  fkins  of  the  rabbits  yielding 
iool.  a  year.  The  reft  of  it  is  without  cultiva- 
tion, except  in  fmall  patches  here  and  there; 
and  it  is  fuppoled,  generally  fpeaking,  to  be 
without  lime- Hone  or  lime-ftone  gravel,  but 
probably  no  great  fearch  has  been  made  in  fo 
dreary  a  region.  It  is  no  eafy  matter  to  get  in 
or  out  of  it  in  winter;  and  very  few  perfons 
ever  attempt  it  from  November  to  Eafter,  hav- 
ing impaffable  bogs  in  the  wTay.  There  were 
896  families  in  the  barony  in  1765,  400  of 
which  are  inhabitants  of  the  Mullet :  47  pro- 
teftant,  and  849  popifh.  The  bifhop  of  Killalla 
has  built  a  houfe  in  the  Mullet  for  a  clergyman, 

who 


K  I  L  L  A  L  L  A.  347 

who  refides  there ;  the  living  is  between  50I. 
and  60L  a  year,  and  40  acres  of  land,  which 
the  bifhop  has  given  from  the  fee  lands.  This 
may  truly  be  called  a  fphere  for  content,  and 
the  philofophic  virtues  to  exert  themfelves  in ; 
there  is  not  a  poft-houfe,  market-town,  or  juf- 
tice  of  peace,  in  the  whole  barony,  which  is 
alfo  the  cafe  with  another  barony  in  this  county 
Coftello.  A  poft-houfe  and  a  market  are  ex- 
cellent things,  but  a  juftice  may  very  well  be 
difpenfed  with.  There  are  many  herds  of  fmall 
cattle,  and  fome  fheep  kept,  which  are  fold 
from  thence.  There  is  not  a  tree  in  the  whole 
barony  of  Errisj  a  man  going  out  of  it  to  pay 
his  rent,  &c.  his  fon  with  him,  a  lad  of  near 
twenty,  when  he  came  near  Killalla,  and  faw 
a  tree,  "  Lord,  Father!  what  is  that?"  But  bare 
of  wood  as  it  is  at  prefent,  it  was,  in  the  iylvan 
age  of  Ireland,  completely  covered:  for  in  no 
part  of  the  kingdom  is  there  found  more  or 
larger  in  the  bogs. 

The  barony  of  Tyrawly  is  among  the  beft 
parts  of  the  county  of  Mayo;  800  bullocks, 
moil  of  them  far,  *re  fold  from  it  annually  at 
Bailynafioe  fair,  which  are  kept  here  from  be- 
ing year  olds,  and  fold  at  4I.  The  quantity  of 
tillage  is  very  ineonfiderable,  but  what  there  is, 
is  vaiiiv  improved  hy  the  ufe  of  fea  weed. 
Land:,  near  the  fea  let  at  20s.  which  at  two 
miles,  would  yield  hut  14s.  merely  from  being 
too  far,  as  they  reckon,  to  carry  the  fea  weed. 
The  j  o  )r  people  in  this  barony  are  not  improved 
in  their  circumftances  in  eighteen  years  paft, 

that 


348  KILLALLA. 

that  the  bifhop  has  refided  at  Killalla.  There 
is  fome  weaving,  fo  that  there  is  fcarcely  a  mar- 
ket at  Ballina,  or  Killalla,  without  fome  linens 
fold.  Spinning  is  univerfal  in  all  the  cabbins, 
but  the  yarn  is  only  four-hank  yarn.  They 
fpin  and  weave  wool  enough  to  cloath  them- 
felves,  with  drugget,  yard-wide  for  the  women, 
at  is.  a  yard,  and  frize  for  the  men  ;  at  a  fatt, 
or  meafure,  four  feet  two  inches  long,  and  20 
to  23  inches  wide,  which  fells  from  is.  I  id.  to 
2s.  4d.  Their  food  is  potatoes,  cockles,  her- 
rings, and  a  little  meal;  and  when  the  potatoes 
are  out,  on  oatmeal  only.  They  do  not  all 
keep  cows,  but  the  majority  do,  and  thofe  who 
do  not,  buy  milk.  Beef  id.  per  lb.  in  autumn, 
twenty  years  ago,  now  three  halfpence.  Fifh 
very  plentiful;  I  partook  of  three  gurnet,  two 
mackarel,  and  one  whiting,  at  the  bifhop's 
table,  which  his  fteward  bought  for  fixpence 
halfpenny,  enough  to  dine  fix  people.  Lobfters 
plentiful.  Turbot  3d.  a  pound.  There  are  1 50 
boats  belonging  to  the  bay  of  Killalla,  or  Moy, 
and  to  the  town,  from  twenty  to  twenty-five, 
five  men  to  a  boat,  the  boat  has  a  fifth,  the  nets 
two-fifths,  and  the  crew  two -fifths;  the  two- 
fifths  belonging  to  the  crew,  are  fubdivided  into 
fixths,  of  which  the  fkipper  has  two.  The  her- 
rings are  caught  near  the  bar,  and  in  the  river 
Moy;  the  fifhery  begins  in  October,  and  lafts 
only  two  or  three  weeks.  They  judge  of  the 
fhoal  being  there  by  the  Gant,  a  bird  that  pur- 
fues  the  fifh  ;  they  fometimes  get  each  boat 
10.000  herrings,  which  is  a  full  load,  but  this 
is  \ery  rare,  in  general  a  good  night's  work  is 

from 


C  A  S  T  L  E-B  A  R.  349 

from  3000  to  5000,  and  the  price  is  from  thir- 
teen pence  to  two  and  fixpence,  the  medium 
is.  8d.  per  hundred,  or  16s.  8d.  per  thoufand; 
consequently  a  night's  work  2I.  10s.  The  boat 
is  4  ton,  and  cofts  20I.  and  the  nets  iol.  Seven 
fhare  of  nets  to  each  boat-  each  fhare  fixty 
yards  long,  and  four  fathom  deep,  eight  fcore 
rnefti.  The  nets  are  all  made  here  ;  the  poor 
people  ufe  flax,  but  others  ufe  hemp  j  they  bark 
them,  but  none  tar  and  oil.  The  fifhery  was 
once  much  more  confiderable  than  at  prefent. 
There  is  no  fhip  belonging  to  this  port,  they  had 
one,  but  that  wicked  fellow,  Thurot  took  her, 
and  quite  unfhipped  the  harbour. 

Auguft  29th,  took  my  leave  of  the  good  bi- 
fhop,  to  whom,  and  his  fon,  Mr.  Hutchefon,  I 
am  obliged  for  the  preceding  particulars  and 
many  civilities.  Breakfafted  with  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Garrat,  at  Foxford  3  palled  over  fome  very  fine 
reddifTi  fandy  loams,  till  I  came  to  a  hill,  from 
whence  an  extenfive  tracl  of  bog  is  feen.  Rents 
about  Foxford  are  12s.  for  cultivated,  arable, 
and  pafture,  and  thence  to  Caftle-bar  the  fame. 
From  Foxford  to  Tubbercurry  fixteen  miles  of 
bad  country ;  the  beft  of  the  cultivated  land 
12s.  fome  at  8s.  and  10s.  but  thefe  rents  are 
only  the  improved  fpots :  they  are  improving 
the  moors  and  mountains  very  fa  ft,  particularly 
the  eftates  of  Mr.  Rutledge  and  Lynch.  It  is 
done  with  white  marie  from  under  bogs.  It 
muft  not  be  imagined  that  when  I  fpeak  of 
mountains  and  moors  in  Mayo,  or  its  wild  ba- 
rony Erris,  that  thefe  lands  yield  no  rent ;  they 

arc 


35o  C  A  S  T  L  E-B  A  R. 

are  let  in  the  lump,  and  applied  to  feeding  cat- 
tle. They  put  on  two  year  old  bullocks,  and 
keep  them  till  full  three,  when  they  bring  them 
to  the  good  grounds,  and  from  thence  take  them 
to  Ballynafloe.  Thefe  mountains  will  not  do 
for  year  olds.  Some  of  them  are  unhealthy  for 
cattle  •  for  if  they  are  left  more  than  a  month 
or  fix  weeks  on  them,  they  are  difordered  with 
lumps  on  their  joints,  fo  that  they  cannot  rife 
from  the  ground;  yet  at  the  fame  time  ihall  be 
in  good  order,  it  difappears  on  a  change  of 
pafture.  Red  deer  run  wild  in  the  mountains 
of  Erris. 

To  Caftle-bar,  over  an  indifferent  country, 
and  a  vile  ftoney  road ;  about  that  town  the 
hufbandry  is  admirable>  They  have  three  cuf- 
toms,  which  1  muft  begin  with  ;  firft.  they  har- 
row by  the  tail,  item  the  fellow  who  leads  the 
horfes  of  a  plough,  walks  backward  before 
them  the  whole  day  long,  and  in  order  to  make 
them  advance,  ftrikes  them  in  the  face :  their 
heads  I  trow  are  not  apt  to  turn.-  Item,  they 
burn  the  corn  inthcftraw,  inftead  of  threfhing 
it.  Among  their  cuftoms  it  may  be  worth 
mentioning,  that  at  the  wakes  or  funeral  en- 
tertainments, in  addition  to  the  circumltances 
I  related  at  Caftle  Caldwell,  both  men  and  wo- 
men, particularly  the  latter,  are  hired  to  cry, 
that  is,  to  howl  the  corps  to  the  grave,  which 
they  do  in  a  moll  horrid  manner  :  they  are  not 
fo  difagreeable,  howTever,  in  Muhfter,  as  I  was 
told.  The  quantity  of  whifky  and  tobacco 
confumed  upon  thefe  occafions  is  pretty  confi- 

derable, 


WESTPORT.  351 

derable.  In  the  lake  of  Caftle-bar,  near  that 
town,  is  the  char,  and  the  Gillaroo  trout  with 
gizards,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  there  are  no 
pike  in  the  lakes  of  this  country.  Land  lets 
at  1  5s.  to  20s.  cultivated,  both  grafs  and  ara- 
ble :  town  parks  40s.  The  mountains  are  re- 
claiming by  lime-ftone  fand  and  gravel  ;  it  is 
the  common  cottars  who  do  it.  There  are 
more  than  500  affidavits  fent  to  the  Dublin 
Society  upon  this  account,  in  which  I  was  told 
they  are  apt  to  be  deceived,  as  well  as  in  the 
corn  Handings.  There  are  very  large  farms  in 
this  neighbourhood,  even  up  to  2000I.  a  year : 
but  all  the  great  ones  are  ftock  farms,  and  moft 
of  the  tillage  of  the  country  is  performed  by 
little  fellows,  cottars,  and  tenants  to  thefe  large 
farmers.  Eight  or  nine  years  ago  there  were 
no  linens  here,  but  now  300  pieces  are  fold  in 
a  week,  200  looms  are  employed  in  the  town 
and  neighbourhood,  yet  great  quantities  of 
yarn  are  fent  ofT.  The  town,  which  belongs 
to  Lord  Lucan,  is  greatly  rifing  from  manufac- 
tures j  the  houfes  are  well  built,  yet  only  31 
years,  or  3  lives  granted. 

In  the  evening  reached  Weftport,  Lord  Alta- 
mont's,  whofe  houfe  is  very  beautifully  iitu- 
ated,  upon  a  ground  rifing  gently  from  a  fine 
river,  which  makes  two  bold  falls  within  view 
of  his  windows,  and  fheltered  on  each  fide  by 
two  large  hanging  woods  •  behind,  it  has  a  very 
fine  view  of  the  bay,  with  feveral  headlands 
projecting  into  it  one  beyond  another,  with  two 
or  three   cultivated  iflands,    and   the   whole 

bounded 


352  WESTPORT. 

bounded  by  the  great  mountain  of  Clara  Ifland, 
and  the  vaft  region  of  Crow-Patrick,  on  the 
right ,  from  the  hill  above  the  wood,  on  the 
right  of  the  houie,  is  a  view  of  the  bay,  with 
feveral  iflands,  bounded  by  the  hummocks,  and 
Clara  Iiland,  with  Crow-Patrick  immediately 
rifing  like  the  fuperior  lord  of  the  whole  terri- 
tory, and  looking  down  on  a  great  region  of 
other  mountains  that  ftretch  into  Joyce's 
country. 

In  Lord  Altamont  I  found  an  improver, 
whofe  works  deferved  the  clofefl  attention ;  he 
very  readily  favoured  me  with  the  following 
account:  he  began  to  improve  mountain  land 
in  1768,  and  has  every  year  lince  done  fome, 
making  it  a  rule  to  employ  whatever  labourers 
offer  for  work.  All  of  it  covered  with  heath, 
(erica  vulgaris)  and  the  foil  on  the  furface 
moor  j  would  let  for  two  fhillings  an  acre  for 
turning  young  cattle  on,  the  only  ufe  to  which 
it  was  applied. 

Experiment,  No.  1. 

Improved  a  piece  of  mountain  land,  of  the 
above  defcription,  by  fpreading  lime-ltone  fand. 
(N.  B.  The  marie  called  here  fand,  is  what  I 
have  generally  found  under  the  denomination 
of  lime- Hone  gravel;  the  ftones  in  it  are  of  the 
Hze  of  a  man's  double  flit,  it  is  clayey,  and 
very  hard  bound  together  in  the  ftratum ;  the 
harder  to  raife,  the  better  it  is.  It  has  a  ftrong 
fermentation  with  acids.)  Spread  the  fand  on. 
the  heath,  and  left  it  for  one  year,  at  the  ex- 

penfe 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  353 

penfe  of   il.  is.  dunged  it,  arid  planted  pota- 
toes ;  found  great  difficulty  in  digging  it  from 
the  roots  of  a  kind  of  grafs,  like  a  rufh,  called 
keeb  don,   in  Englifh,   black  keeb.     The  crops 
very  bad.     Dunged  it  the  year  following  for 
oats;    the  crop    very  fine,  and  repeated  them 
the  next  year.     Left   the  oat  flubble,  and   it 
covered  itfelf  fo  with  good  natural  grafs,  that 
the  next  year  mowed  a  crop  of  hay,  and  the 
fame  two  years  more.     Finding  it  not  well  re- 
claimed from  having  ploughed  it  too  foon  after 
the  fanding,  gave  it  a  new  manuring  at  nearly 
the  fame  expenfe  ;  did  not  plough  it  any  more, 
but  fuch  of  the  Hones  as  had  not  fank  of  them- 
fclves,  were  beat   in  with   mallets,  at  the  ex- 
penfe of  2S.  6d.  an  acre,  in  order  to  fmooth  it 
for  mowing.     This  was  very  practicable,  hav- 
ing  two  fpits  of  boggy  turf  on   the  furface. 
Ever  fince  it  has  been  excellent  meadow,  worth 
il.  2s.  9d.  an  acre. 

Ex  P  E R I M  E  N  T,    No.  2. 

In  1764,  improved  another  piece,  landing 
it  at  40s.  an  acre,  owing  to  the  dillance ;  left 
it  two  years  on  the  land,  and  then  fet  it  at  40s* 
to  the  poor  people  for  potatoes ;  after  which 
took  three  noble  crops  of  oats.  Then  left  to 
grafs,  and  the  firft  year  mowed  a  great  crop, 
and  fet  it  for  1 6s.  an  acre. 

Experiment,  No.  3. 

In  1765,  began  with  fifty  acres  more  of 
mountain  land,  but  full  of  heath.  Firit  drew 
off  the  ftones,   and  made  a  wall  round  it  fix 

Vol.  f.  A  a  feet 


354  WESTPOR  T. 

feet  high,  and  the  ftones  not  wanted  for  thisv 
threw  down  the  river,  fome  of  which  were  fo 
large  that  it  took  flxteen  bullocks  to  draw  them. 
Expenfe  30s.  an  acre,  befides  is.  6d.  a  perch 
for  the  wall.  Dug  and  burnt  it,  and  fpread 
the  afhes,  2I.  as.  an  acre ;  it  was  before  too- 
rough  and  coarfe  to  plough.  Then  ploughed 
it  with  bullocks,  and  fowed  rape ;  the  crop* 
middling,  where  the  aihes  were  yellow,  good, 
where  white,  bad  ;  leeded  the  rape,  and  then 
dug  it,  and  limed  it,  1 60  barrels  an  acre.  Would 
not  ufe  lime  had  not  the  hill  been  too  fteep  to- 
lead  gravel  up;  he  had  nineteen  lime-kilns 
burning  at  once.  Upon  this  liming  ploughed 
for  oats ;  the  crop  tolerably  good.  A  fecond 
crop  of  oats,  which  were  very  fine,  and  then 
let  it  run  to  grafs ;  let  it  at  1  55.  an  acre.  Ob- 
ferved  that  the  burning  brought  up  a  great 
quantity  of  rulhes,  which  had  not  appeared 
before. 

Experiment,  No.  4. 

Another  confiderable  piece,  where  turf  had 
been  cut,  was  manured,  part  with  lime-ftone 
fand,  and  part  with  mortar  rubbifh,  and  another 
with  graulagh,  or  coralline  fhelly  fand ;  the  ex- 
penfe  each  about  il.  2s.  od.  an  acre.  Ploughed 
it  and  burnt  it,  and  fowed  it  with  turnips :  a 
very  noble  crop.  Drew  the  turnips,  and  fed 
them  in  a  pailure.  The  fpring  following  planted 
it  with  potatoes  without  any  other  manure, 
and  the  crop  much  the  greater!:  he  ever  faw  in 
his  life;  from  one  ftalk  had  143  potatoes,  then 
took  three  crops  of  oats,  which  all  proved  ex- 
ceedingly; 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  355 

ceedingly  good.  The  black  Frizeland  oat,  and 
the  fecond  crop,  yielded  26  barrels  an  acre,  each 
14  ftone.  Sowed  Dutch  clover  with  the  lafl 
crop,  and  could  let  it  at  20s.  an  acre. 

Experiment,  No.  5. 

Another  piece  of  heath  mountain,  not  en- 
tirely dry,  worth  is.  an  acre,  manured  very 
richly  with  lime-frone  fand,  and  at  the  expenie 
of  30s.  an  acre,  and  left  {o  without  any  other 
improvement.  In  three  years  it  was  worth  5s. 
in  eight  years  10s.  an  acre,  and  in  twelve  years 
il.  is.  and  fo  has  remained. 

Experiment,  No.  6.    , 

Another  piece,  worth  five  (hillings  an  acre, 
was  fanded  at  il.  as.  C;d.  which  was  left  three 
years  on  it,  and  then  planted  with  potatoes, 
by  the  country  people,  who  paid  3I.  10s.  an 
acre.  After  which  it  was  fown  thrice  with 
oats,  the  crops  very  good,  left  for  mcaa. .  , 
and  let  it  at  30s.  an  acre. 

Experiment,  No.  7. 

Sanded  another  piece,  at  iL  5s.  left  it  three 
years,  and  ploughed  it  up  in  dry  weather,  in 
May ;  left  it  till  after  wheat  lowing,  and  then 
crofs-ploughed  it,  and  in  the  fpring  harrowed 
it  with  great  ox  harrows,  and  planted  it  with 
potatoes;  after  which  two  crops  of  oats,  great 
crops,  and  then  left  it  for  grafs.  Worth  im- 
mediately il.  2S.  o,d.  an  acre. 

A  a  2  Axur. 


356  W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T. 

A  curragh  of  one  hundred  acres,  that  is  a 
wet  quaking  bog,  which  will  not  do  for  turf) 
with  a  long  fedgy  grafs  on  it.  Part  of  a  farm 
at  30I.  a  year,  Lord  Altamont  took  into  his 
hands,  with  the  confent  of  the  tenant ;  he- 
drained  it  to  the  amount  of  30I.  at  yd.  a  perch, 
five  feet  deep,  and  ten  feet  wide;  this  limple 
thing  improved  it  fo  much,  that  without  any 
Other  improvement,  he  fet  it  to  the  fame  te- 
nant, at  70I.  a  year.  Made  perfectly  found* 
fo  that  bullocks  of  8  cwt.  could  graze  on  it. 

Updn  the  whole,  Lord  Altamont  is  of  opi- 
nion, from  a  variety  of  experience,  that  the 
belt,  method  of  breaking  up  heathy  mountain 
land,  is  by  manuring  with  lime-ftone  fand,  to 
the  thicknefs  of  an  inch,  which  at  prefent  cofts 
iL  us.  6d.  per  acre.     If  fand  is  not  to  be  had, 
then   the  white  marie  from  under  moory  bot- 
toms; and  if  there  is  none  of  that,  then  lime. 
Objeds  to  lime,  as  it  brings  the  land  infallibly 
to  mofs,  which  is  fo  powerful  as  to  choak  the 
graffes,  but  marie  is  an  excellent  manure.    To 
leave  it  for  three  years,  or  till  dailies  (bcllis) 
and  white  clover  (trifolium  repens)  appear,  then 
to  plough  it   in  May  or  June,    and  again  in 
autumn ;  and  in  the  fpring  to  plant  potatoes, 
in  the  common  trenching  way,  and  after  the 
potatoes,  would  fow  oats  fucceffively,  till  the 
chickweed  (aljine  media)  appears,  which  is  a 
fign  that  the  tillage  has  fo  enriched  the  land, 
that  the  crops  will  be  too  great,  and  then  leave 
it  for  grafs.     This  is  what  he  has  on  experience 
found  to  be  the  bed:  way.     If  feaweed  is  plen- 
tiful, 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  357 

tiful,  he  would  manure  the  potatoes  with  it, 
and  then  would  have  the  firft  crop  barley  inr 
flead  of  oats.  A  large  portion  of  thefe  moun- 
tains are  wet,  owing  to  the  lack  clay,  but  the 
potatoe  trenches  break  it,  and  let  off  the 
water ;  after  which  the  land  fettles  by  degrees, 
and  becomes  perfectly  dry.  There  are  grea,t 
tracts  of  many  miles  extent  of  heath  mountain 
in  this  neighbourhood  which  are  capable  of  the 
above  improvements. 

To  (hew  what  the  advantage  would  be  of 
doing  it  on  a  perfect  and  extenfive  fcale,  I  (hall 
calculate  a  fquare  mile  of  fix  hundred  and  forty 
acres  inclofed  in  fixty-four  divifions,  ten  acres 
each,  and  the  walls  would  amount  to 

5760  perches,  two  miles  of  road  at  50I.  100     o     Q 

Lord  Altamont  ha*  found  that  his  walls  of  fix 
feet  high,  two  feet  and  a  half  wide  at  bot- 
tom, and  fixteen  inches  at  top,  built  dry, 
coft  him  on  an  average,   5s.  a  perch  tuj- 
ning-meafure,  of  21  feet,  including  all  ex- 
penses, 5760  at  that  rate  -  1442   I0     Q 
Fortygatesof  Iron,  at  50s.  Piers,  &c.&c.  5I.  200     o     o 
Of  wood,  they  coft  2\.  complete 
Ten-acre  divifions  would    completely   clear 

the  land  of  ftones, 
Sanding  at  il.  us.  6d.  an  acre  -  984     °     ° 

£.  2726  10    o 
Brought 


358  WESTPORT. 

Brought  over  -  £.  2726  10     o 

Left  for  three  years  intereft  of  1000I.  to  be- 
gin with  for  that  time,  at  61.  per  cent.     -     180     o     o 
This  is  an  unfair  charge  ;  Lord  Alta- 
mont    obierved    that   the  improved 
value  would  more  than  pay  it, 
,Ten  farm-hcufes,  with  offices,  at  50I.  each     500     o     o 


Total  firft  improvement         -         £.  3406  10     o 


The  potatoes  will  pay  their  own  expenfes,  and 
4c s.  an  acre  profit.  The  crops  of  oats,  on  an 
average,  40s.  an  acre  profit,  after  paying  all 
their  own  expenles.  Lord  Altamont  could  have 
this  price  as  rent,  for  liberty  to  fow  them. 

Profit  by  potatoes  -  -  1280     o     o 

Ditto  on  oats,  three  crops,  at  40s.        -        3840     o     o 

5120     o     o 
Dedufr.  feven  years  intereft  at  6  percent,  on 

3400I.  -  -  1428     o     o 

Neat  profit  3692     o     o 

Original  expenfe  -  -  34°6  I0     o 


Profit  £.    285   10     o 

Let,  on  an  average,  at  15s.  an  acre,  which 
is  what  Lord  Altamont  is  clear  is  the  low- 
eft:  price  it  can  be  reckoned  at,  it  is  per 
annqm,  -  £-4$o    o    o 

An 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  359 

An  income  of  480I.  is  created  without  ex- 
penfe.  This  for  a  landlord  :  if  hired  at  2s.  an 
acre,  the  account  will  be  the  fame,  except  the 
deduction  of  that  for  rent.  I  forgot  to  obferve, 
that  when  the  heath  dies,  which  it  does  in 
three  years,  then  dairies  appear,  and  white 
clover,  which  are  llgns  that  the  land  is  fit  for 
culture.  There  is  fomething  very  extraordinary 
in  this  circumftance,  that  laying  on  a  powerful 
manure  for  cultivated  vegetables,  mould  prove 
poifon  to  the  fpontaneous  growth.  *  It  is  only 
to  be  accounted  for  by  fuppofing  that  the  heath 
is  nouriihed  by  an  acid  in  the  foil,  which  being; 
neutralized  by  the  alcali,  is  no  longer  the  food 
of  that  plant,  after  wrhich  it  dies  for  want  of 
its  ufual  fupport.  It  is  very  remarkable,  that 
all  the  wild  mountains  in  this  country  have 
marks,  and  to  a  great  height  of  former  cul- 
ture, mounds  of  fences,  and  the  ridges  of  the 
plough.  Lord  Altamont's  great  grandfather 
found  the  eftate  a  continued  foreft  ;  in  1650, 
thofe  woods  were  of  much  more  than  a  century 
growth,  fo  that  no  cultivation  could  have  been 
here  probably  of  300  years.  There  is  a  tradi- 
tion in  the  country  that  it  was  depopulated  by 
the  plague,  and  upon  that  the  wood  fprung  up 
which  formed  thofe  forelts.  At  prefent  there 
is  no  wood  on  any  of  the  hills,  except  imme- 
diately about  Weftport. 

I  obferved,  befides  this  great  range  of  moun- 
tain improvement,  that  Lord  Altamont  profe- 
cutes  various  parts  of  hufbandry   with  much 
fpirit.     He  has  been  at  great  expenfes  in  intro- 
ducing 


36o  WES'TPOR  T. 

ducing  the  heft  breed  of  Englifh  cattle.     I  had 
no  {light   pleafure   in   feeing   great    compolis 
formed  of  dung  and  earth,  and  fea  ore,  well 
mixed  together,  and  then  carried  into  his  mea- 
dows.     Stands   were    aifo   building   for   corn 
ftacks,  and  under  them  itandings  for  cows  or 
oxen,  and  vaults  for  potatoes :  they  are  exe- 
cuted in  the  moil  perfect  manner.     A  fort  of 
oat  he  has  introduced  into  cultivation,  a  few 
grains  of  which  he  got  by  accident,  cultivated 
them   carefully  in  drills,  and  has  got  a  large 
quantity  now.     They  are  of  fo  great  a  body 
that  he  calls  them  Patagonian  oats.     He  fa- 
voured me  with  a  few  for  feed.    In  introducing 
the  linen  manufacture,  his  lordfhip  has  made 
great  exertions.     He  found  it  to  conliit  princi- 
pally in  fpinning  flax,  which  was  fent  out  of 
the  country,  without  any  looms  in  it,  except 
a  very  few,  which  worked  only  for  their  own 
life.     In  order  to   eftabliih   it,  he  built  good 
houfes  in  the  town  of  Weftport,  and  let  them 
upon  very  reafonable  terms   to  weavers,  gave 
them  looms,  and  lent  them  money  to  buy  yarn, 
and  in  order  to  fecure  them  from  manufactur- 
ing goods,  which  they  fhould  not  be  able  rea- 
dily to  fell,  he  conitantly  bought  all  they  could 
not  fell,   which  for  fome  years  was  all   they 
made ;    but  by  degrees,    as    the  manufacture 
arofe,  buyers  came  in,  fo  that  he  has  for  fome 
time  not  bought  any  great  quantity.     The  firft 
year,  1 772,  he  bought  as  much  as  coft  him  200I. 
the  next  year,  1773,  700I.  the  next,  177-;-,  as 
much   as    20©ol;  and  in   1775,    above  4.CO0J. 
worth:  and  this  year,   1776,  the  number  of 
buyers  having  much  increased,  he  will  not  lay 

out 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  361 

out   more  than  4000I.  the   fame  as   laft  year. 
This  year  he  has  alfo  given  fuch  encourage- 
ment as  to  induce  a  perfon  to  buiid  and  eftabliih 
a  bleach  green  and  mill.     The  progrefs  of  this 
manufacture  has   been  prodigious,  for  at  firft 
Lord  Altamont  was  the  only  buyer,  whereas 
for  two  years  paft  there  has  not  been  lefs  than 
1  o,oool.  a  year  laid  out  at  this  market  in  linen  -9 
yet   with  all   this  encreafe,   they  do  not  yet 
weave  a  tenth  part  of  the  yarn  that  is  fpun  in 
the  neighbourhood.     The  linens  made  are  all 
coarfe,  generally  8  to  1 100,  from  9d.  to  is.  id. 
a  yard.     They  are  double  webs  of  42  yards  and 
upwards,  and  32  inches  wide ;  and  they  earn  is. 
a  day  by  weaving  it,  on  an   average  of  work- 
men.  It  is  of  2  t  to  31  hank  yarn,  and  the  f pi  li- 
ners earn  two-pence  halfpenny  to  three-pence 
halfpenny  a  day  by  fpinning  it.     The  price  of 
it  has  been  in  5  years  gradually  riling  from  four- 
pence  to  feven-pence  a  hank.     All  of  it  is  fpun 
of  flax  raifed  in  the  country. 

The  poor  in  general  live  on  potatoes  and  milk 
9  months  out  of  the  12,  the  other  3  months 
bread  and  milk.  All  of  them  have  one  or  two 
cows ;  fifh  is  exceedingly  plentiful,  particularly 
oy tiers  for  is.  a  cart  load,  and  fand  eels,  yet 
they  eat  none  ;  herrings,  howe1  .  are  an  arti- 
cle in  their  food.  In  their  domeftic  ne<  lomy, 
they  reckon  that  the  men  with 

their  labour  in  the  field,  and  the  women  pay 
the  rent  by  fpinning.     Tl  eafe  of  popula- 

tion is  very  great.  Lord  fiion 

that  the  numbers  have  doubled  on  his  eftate  in 

20  years. 

The 


362  W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T. 

The  farms  around  .Weftport  are  in  general 
large,  from  400  acres  to  4  or  5000,  all  which 
are  ftock  farms ;  and  the  occupiers  re-let  the 
cultivated  lands,  with  the  cabbins,  at  a  very 
increafed  rent,  to  the  oppreflion  of  the  poor, 
who  have  a  ftrong  averfion  to  renting  of  thefe 
tierny  begs.  The  foil  in  general  is  a  cold 
fpewy  ftoney  clay  and  loam  -,  the  beil  lands  in 
the  country  are  the  improved  moors.  Rents 
rife  from  2s.  for  heath,  to  1 6s.  for  good  land. 
Average  8s.  about  three-fifths  of  the  country 
unimproved  mountains,  bog  and  lake.  Great 
tracts  of  mountain,  but  bogs  not  very  exten- 
sive. Clara  Ifland  2,400  acres,  at  300L  a  year; 
Achill  24,000  acres,  at2ool.  a  year;  Bofin  iool. 
a  year,  and  is  above  1 200  acres.  It  belongs 
to  Lord  Clanrickard.  The  courfe  of  this  coun- 
try, 1.  Potatoes,  manured  with  fea-weed :  this 
is  fo  ftrong  that  they  depend  entirely  on  it, 
and  will  not  be  at  the  trouble  to  carry  out 
their  own  dunghills.  On  the  fhore,  towards 
Joyce's  country,  they  actually  let  their  dung- 
hills accumulate  y  till  they  become  fuch  a  nuifancey 
thai  they  move  their  cabbins  in  order  to  get  from 
them.  A  load  of  wrack  is  worth,  at  leaft,  fix 
loads  of  dung.  They  do  not  take  half  what  is 
thrown  in.  On  the  fhore,  open  to  the  Atlan- 
tic, there  is  a  leather  fort  of  Alga,  which  comes 
in  in  the  fpring.  The  kelp  w7eed  grows  only 
where  it  is  fheltered.  The  coaft  of  Lord  Alta- 
mont's  domain  and  iflands  let  for  iool.  a  year 
for  making  kelp. 

1.  Potatoes.    2.  Barley.    3.  Oats.    4.  Oats. 

1 .  Pota- 


W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T.  363 

I.  Potatoes.    2.  Barley.    3.  Oats.    4.  Flax. 

1.  Potatoes.    2.  Barley.    3.  Oats. 

Potatoes  they  meafure  by  the  barrel  of  1 2 
cwt.  and  in  each  barrel  16  pecks  of  three  quar- 
ters each.  They  plant  10  bufhels,  of  3  cwt. 
each,  at  the  average  price  of  123,  a  barrel,  or 
is.  per  cwt. 


Expenfe  of  an  acre. 

Manuring  with  fea  weed 

1 

1 

0 

Rent                 - 

0 

8 

0 

County  cefs  and  parifh  charges 

0 

1 

0 

Seed                   - 

1 

10 

0 

Planting,  30  men  a  day 

0 

'5 

0 

Shovelling  IO  ditto 

0 

5 

0 

Weeding  3  ditto             - 

0 

1 

6 

Taking  up,  and  carrying  home,  60  men 

1 

10 

0 

Sorting,  &c.  3  men          -     - 

if 

0 

1 

6 

5 

*3 

0 

They  will  not  carry  fea  weed  above  a  mile  ; 

dung  is  ufed,  the  expenfe  will  be 

2 

2 

0 

Produce. 

Twenty  barrels,  or  twelve  tons,  at  12s. 

12 

0 

O 

Expenfes               - 

L 

5 

13 

O 

Profit 

6 

7 

0 

A  man, 


364  W  E  S  T  P  O  R  T. 

A  man,  his  wife,  and  four  children,  will  cat 
a  bufhel  of  3  cwt,  every  week  :  in  39  weeks, 
therefore,  they  eat  117  cwt.  or  5  ton,  17  cwt. 
this  is  juit  half  an  acre  for  a  family.  Of  oat- 
meal, the  common  allowance  is  a  quart  of  oat- 
meal a  day  for  a  labourer.  A  mower  that  is 
fed  is  allowed  that  quantity,  and  6  quarts  of 
butter  milk  a  day,  or  as  much  bonny  clobber. 
To  explain  what  this  is  I  muft  obferve,  that 
they  fet  the  milk  three  days  for  the  cream  to 
rife,  and  having  then  flammed  it,  the  milk  that 
remains  is  as  thick  as  biamange,  and  as  four  as 
vinegar,  and  this  is  bonny  clobber. 

Of  barley  they  fow  6  pecks,  each  2 1  quarts, 
and  the  crop  is  generally  from  20  to  30  fold, 
or  at  25  it  is  1  50  pecks.  Of  oats  they  fow  a 
barrel  of  24  ftone  per  acre,  and  they  get  6  fnch 
barrels.  Of  flax  they  fow  40  gallons,  and  it 
will  fell  in  common  on  the  foot  at  81.  they  find 
that  it  enriches  the  land.  No  wheat  fown  but 
by  gentlemen  for  their  own  confumption.  They 
burn  their  com,  inflead  of  thre firing  tt.  The 
grazing  fyftem  is  generally  the  fuccefTion,  buy- 
ing in  at  year  olds,  or  if  the  lands  are  very  bad, 
two  year  olds;  keep  them  till  four  year  olds, 
and  then  fell  them  lean  at  Ballinailoe.  They 
give  ics.  6d.  to  3I.  10s.  for  yearlings  ;  average 
40s.  For  two-year  olds,  they  give  3I.  They 
fell  for  61.  what  they  gave  2I.  and  for  thofe 
they  gave  3I.  they  will  fell  at  four-year  olds 
for  61.  They  keep  but  few  fheep,  but  general- 
ly buy  year-old  wethers  ;  hoggerih  in  May,  at 
8s.  to  1  os.  each,  fhear  them  and  turn  to  the 

mountains  ; 


WESTPORT.  565 

mountains  ;  bring  them  on  to  their  arable  lands 
in  winter,  {hear  them  again  the  following  year, 
and  fend  them  to  the  mountain  again,  and  in 
the  following    fummer  {hear   again,    putting 
them  on  their  belt  paftures,  and  felling  fat  at 
Ballinaftoe,  at  15s.  or  16s.  their  fleeces  5  lb.  at 
is.  a  pound.     There  are  feme  dairies,  as   far 
-as  ten  or  twelve  cows,  which  are  employed  tor 
butter.     Twenty  years  ago  cows  were  lett  for 
1  cwt.  of  butter  for  the  year,  and  rearing  the 
calf.     Very  few  fwine  kept,  and  of  a  bad  kind. 
They  plough  all  with  horfes,  four  in  a  plough, 
<iireded  by  a  man,  walking  backwards,  who 
to  make  them  move  forward,  ftrikes  the  beafts 
in  the  face.     Young  colts  they  harrow  with  by 
the  tail.     Twelve  horfes  are  neceffary  for  one 
hundred  acres  in  tillage.     They  winnow  their 
corn  in  the  road,  and" let  the  wind  blow  away 
the  chaff. 

Lord   Altarnont   mentioned    defcriptive   of 
Mayo  hufbandry,  acts  of  parliament  to  prevent 
their  pulling  the  wool  off  their  fheep  by  hand ; 
burning  their  corn  ;   ploughing  by  the  tail ;  in 
hiring  and  flocking  farms,  the  common  com- 
mutation  is,    three   rents   for  a   grazing   one. 
Land  fells  at  twenty-one  and  twenty-two  years 
purchafe,  at  rack  rent.  Rents  have  fallen  within 
five  years,  is.  in  the  pound  ;  they  are  at  prefent 
•on  a  balance,  with  a  tendency  to  rife.     Tythes 
are   compounded  in  the  lump.     Leafes,  three 
lives,    or   thirty-one   years,    alfo   twent) 
years.    Much  land  let  to  thofe  who  re-let,    '1 
Tents  in  Mayo  arc  trebled  in  forty  years.     No 

cmi- 


366  WESTPORT. 

emigrations.     Farms  are  generally  let  in  part- 
nership,   but  the   term  Rundale  not   known. 
Labour  generally  done  by  cottars,  who  have 
land  let  to  them,   or   grafs   for  cows,    under 
agreement  to  work  for  the  landlord.     Proviii- 
ons,  which  the  poor  eat,  not  rifen,  but  butchers 
meat  doubled.     They  pluck  their  geefe  alive 
every  year.     All  carriage  done  by  horfes  with 
bafkets  :   the   bottoms   of  which  fallen   with 
flicks,  and  let  out  the  load.     The  induftry  of 
the  people  very  much  increafed  ;  an  afloni£h- 
ing  change  in  induftry,  fobriety,  &c.  and  are 
in  much  better  circumftances  in  every  refpeel, 
than  twenty  years  ago.     They  have  a  practice 
common  among  them,  which  fhews  an  increa- 
fing  civility  in  the  change  from  Irifh  names  to 
Bnglifh   ones.     Even  iirnames,    for  inftances 
Stranaghan,   Iriih  for  birds,    which  they  call 
themfelves.    Markahau,  Irilli  for  a  rider,  which 
name  they  take;  Cullane,   IriiTi  for  a   whelp, 
which    name  they  affume;  others  call  them- 
felves Collins.     Conree,  Irifh  for  a  king,  which 
they  call  themfelves  \  Ruddery,  a  knight,  and 
manv  others.    Among  Lord  Altamont's  labour- 
ers, is  one  Mowbray  Seymour;  his  great  grand- 
father was  manV.r-wrorker  of  the  mint  at  Lok- 
don.    There  are  many  Mortimers,  Piercys,  &c, 
and  within  a  few  years,  a  Plantagenet,  in  the 
county  of  Sligo.     Eagles  abound  very  much  in 
this  country,  and  do  great  mifchief,  by  carry- 
ing away  lambs,  poultry,  &c.  they  alfo  watch 
the  falmon  jumping,  and  feize  them  even  out 
of  the  water,  by  darting  with  that  celerity,  of 
which  they  arc  fuch  mailers  -,  this  is  fo  com- 
mon* 


HOLYMOUNT.         367 

mon,  that  men  with  guns  are  fet  to  kill  and 
frighten  them. 

Auguft  30th,  rode  to  Rofshill,  four  miles  off, 
a  headland  that  projects  into  the  bay  of  New- 
port, from  which  there  is  a  moil  beautiful  view 
of  the  bay  on  both  fides;  I  counted  thirty 
iflands  very  diftin&ly,  all  of  them  cultivated 
under  corn  and  potatoes,  or  paftured  by  cattle. 
At  a  diftance,  Clara  rifes  in  a  very  bold  and 
pi&urefque  flile ;  on  the  left,  Crow  Patrick, 
and  to  the  right,  other  mountains.  It  is  a 
view  that  wants  nothing  but  wood. 

Auguft  31ft,  to  Newbrook,  over  a  various 
country,  part  wafte,  and  much  cultivated. 
About  Caitle-Burk,  the  road  croffed  a  moft  re- 
markable ftoney  natural  pavement,  regularly 
furrounded  with  grafs  trenches,  all  on  a  flat. 
Faffed  the  ruins  of  a  very  fine  abbey;  reached 
Holymount,  Mr.  Lindiay's,  a  very  coniiderable 
grazier ;  about  which  place,  the  foil  is  in  gene- 
ral, a  ftoney  clay,  from  fix  inches  to  two  feet 
deep,  on  lime-itone  gravel;  it  is  quite  dry 
found  land,  and  the  ftones  are  lime-ftone.  Lets 
from  1 2s.  to  1 5s.  an  acre.  Farms  are  very  ex- 
tenfive,  up  to  three  or  four  thoufand  acres,  all 
flock  ones,  with  portions  re-let  to  cottars,  who 
are  the  principal  arable  men  here.  They  are  in 
the  fuccelfion  way,  buying  in  year-olds  at  40s. 
keep  them  till  three  or  four  year  olds,  fome- 
times  only  keep  them  two  years,  they  pay  about 
20S.  per  annum,  on  a  medium.  They  are  fold, 
at  whatever  age,  for  {lores  to  the  graziers  in 

the 


368  T    U    A    ML 

the  rich  countries.  Another  fyftem  is,  to  buy  in 
cows  in  May,  at  2I.  12s.  6d.to  3I.  and  make  about 
il.  10s.  profit.  A  cow  will  take  an  acre,  but 
there  will  be  an  after-grafs,  worth  5s.  an  acre, 
for  ilieep.  The  fheep  fyftein  is  breeding  and 
felling  three-year  old  wethers  fat,  the  wool, 
and  the  culled  ewes.  Above  half  the  county 
bog,  mountain,  and  lake.  Folding  fheep,  I 
fuppofe,  will  come  in  here,  for  they  have  got 
very  near  it.  They  drive  their  fheep  to  a  fpot 
of  grafs,  which  they  let  for  giafs  potatoes,  at 
3I.  1  os.  to  5I.  an  acre,  doing  this  at  night,  till 
the  land  is  well  dunged.  The  crops  are  eight 
tons  on  an  average : 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Bere,  if  fanded,  8  to  10 
barrels.  3.  Bere.  4.  Oats,  8  to  10  barrels. 
5.  Oats,  8  barrels.  6.  Oats,  8  barrels.  7. 
Flax.  8.  Wheat.  .9  Sand  for  the  bere,  if 
for  potatoes  the  fand  docs  hurt,  unlets  it  lies 
two  or  three  years  on  the  grafs.  3  cwt.  the 
barrel  of  bere,  the  fame,  which  is  furprifing. 
4  cwt.  of  wheat. 

September  ift.  to  Tuam;  dined  with  the 
Archbifhop.  All  this  country  is  a  good  found 
lime-itoneland,  and  famous  for  fheep,  but  upon 
enquiry,  I  found  it  did  not  materially  vary  from 
the  neighbourhood  of  Holymount,  or  Moniva, 
whither  I  was  going  in  the  evening.  Reached 
Mr.  French's,  at  that  place,  to  whofe  very 
obliging  attention  I  am  indebted  for  the  fol- 
lowing interefling  particulars:  he  has  improved 
60  acres  of  bog,  and  290  of  moor,  which  he 

began 


T    U    A    M.  §69 

began  in  the  year  1744,  with  a  great  red  bog, 
from  20  to  30  feet  deep,  fo  wet  and  fpongy, 
that  no  turf,  fit  for  burning,  could  be  found  to 
cut  in  it,  fo  very  wet  and  loofe,  that  a  man 
could  not  go  on  it  without  jumping  from  tuft 
to  tuft ;  no  heath  on  it,  except  at  the  verge  j 
the  only  fpontaneous   growth   red  and  white 


mofs. 


The  following  account  of  this  great  improve- 
ment, Mr.  French  lent  to  the  Dublin  Society. 
It  was  never  publifhed.  I  infert  it  therefore 
with  the  utmoft  fatisfaclion. 

BOG    RECLAIMED. 

Copy  of  a  letter  to  the  Dublin  Society,  for  which 
they  granted  him  a  gold  medal. 

Dear  Sir, 

Moniva,  Jan.  24th,  1769. 

ALTHOUGH  I  have  not  hitherto  applied 
for  a  medal  or  premium,  yet  for  above  20  years 
Daft,  during  which  time  the  works  I  defcribe 
have  been  carrying  on,  I  have  obferved  the  ufe- 
ful  hints  of  the  Dublin  Society,  tried  many  ex-. 
periments  recommended  by  them,  and  have 
followed  their  inftruclions,  which  have  turned 
to  my  pleafure,  profit,  and  advantage.  I  ob- 
ferve,  that  it  is  neceffary  to  lay  before  the  So- 
ciety the  quality  of  the  bog,  and  the  method 
purfued  in  reducing  it,  but  fear  their  patience 
may  be  tried  upon  the  prefent  occafion. 

Vol.  L  B  b  The 


tfo  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

The  caftle  of  Moniva,  now  part  of  my  dwel- 
ling-houfe,  is  very  ancient,  and  was  built  for  a 
place  of  defence ;  it  ftands  upon  a  dry  gravelly 
foil,  which,  like  a  peninfula  of  five  acres,  run 
between  two  very  high,  red,  deep,  wet  bogs, 
impaffable  for  any  bead  of  burden,  very  diffi- 
cult even  for  men  to  pafs.  The  bog,  on  the 
north  fide,  contained  above  1 3  acres  ;  the  other, 
on  the  foutb,  is  of  a  great  extent.  The.  eaft 
fide  of  the  caftle  was  defended  by  a  deep  wind- 
ing river,  a  few  perch  beyond  which  was  a  large 
extent  of  extreme  wet  red  impaffable  bog,  fo 
high  as  to  prevent,  from  the  lower  rooms  of  my 
houfe,  a  view  of  the  country  beyond  it,  and  of 
a  great  part  of  an  high  ifland  of  land  of  about 
15  acres,  which  lay  towards  the  middle  of  the 
bog.  A  large  old  wood,  which  ftands  on  in 
acres,  in  a  femicircular  form,  partly  round  a 
lawn  of  70  acres,  upon  a  gentle  rifing  dry 
ground,  defended  the  weft  of  the  caftle.  The 
river,  on  every  heavy  rain,  overflowed  to  the 
verges  of  the  bogs,  and  very  near  to  the  caftle. 
That  I  may  not  affume  too  much  of  the  follow- 
ing improvements  to  myfelf,  I  muff,  let  you 
know,  that  my  father  formed  a  fcheme  to  turn 
the  courfe  of  the  river  through  the  great  eaft 
bog,  which  was  from  26  to  28  feet  above  its  le- 
vel, and  made  a  confiderable  drain  through  the 
bog  for  the  purpofe.  He  alfo  m^de  a  deep 
mearing  drain,  near  a  mile  in  length  fr  m  the 
river,  through  the  large  fouth  bog,  and  divid- 
ed about  90  acres  thereof,  by  crofs  wide  and 
deep  drains,  into  5  divifions,  and  by  two  drains 

through 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  27t 

through  the  north  bog,  laid  out  an  approach, 
7  perch  wide,  to  his  houfe,  but  his  life  proved 
too  fhort  to  execute  his  exteniive  fcheme. 

Upon  his  deceafe,  in  the  year  1744,  I  firft 
purfued  his  plan  to  turn  the  courfe  of  the  river, 
widened  the  drain  made  by  hiin  to  27  and  30 
feet,  according  to  the  height  of  the  bog^  and 
funk  the  drain  to  the  gravel,  where  I  could  do 
fo,  and  in  fome  parts  two  and  three  feet  deep 
into  the  gravel,  which  proved  exceflive  hard. 
In  other  parts  of  the  drain,  the  bottom  of  the 
bog  was  much  lower  than  the  level  of  the  river, 
in  which  parts,  as  the  w7ater  could  not  be 
drained  off,  there  was  no  digging  to  the  gravel. 
The  fides  of  the  drain  were  fo  high,  that  I  was 
obliged  to  cut  them  in  fome  parts  into  benches, 
in  the  form  of  flairs,  to  prevent  the  men  at  the 
bottom  from  being  overwhelmed,  which  would 
once  have  happened,  only  that  a  man  Handing 
on  the  furface,  obferving  the  bog  to  burfr,  gave 
the  alarm,  by  which  he  faved  the  lives  of  feve- 
ral  men;  for  in  a  few  moments  many  perches 
in  length  of  the  drain  were  rilled  up  to  the  top, 
more  difficult  to  be  again  (hovelled  out,  than 
if  it  had  not  been  cut  before  ;  it  required  fome- 
times  four  or  five  men  Handing  upon  different 
benches  to  convey  what  the  loweit  fhovel  took 
up  to  the  top,  beiides  the  neceffity  of  removing 
the  fluff  from  the  edge  of  the  drain,  to  prevent: 
the  frequent  burftings  in  of  the  bog.  The 
greateft  difncultv  was  to  draw  up  prodigious 
large  roots  of  fir  trees,  which  lay  firmly  fixed 
B  b  2  and 


372  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

and  very  found,  juft  over  the  gravel,  at  trie 
bottom  of  the  bog  all  along  the  drain.  This  I 
effe&ed,  by  laying  two  large  beams  from  the 
top,  fo  as  to  form  an  inclined  plain  to  the  bot- 
tom :  then  drove  down  into  the  bog  above, 
a  itrong  beam  perpendicular,  and  made  it  firm 
byftones;  to  this,  I  fixed' a  great  pulley,  and 
another  pulley  to  the  root  below,  firlt.  fepa- 
rating  it  by  hatches  and  iron  crows  from  its 
large  arms,  which  run  under  the  bog :  then  by 
running  a  cable  through  the  pulleys,  the  united 
ftrength  of  16  or  20  men  drew  up  the  largeft 
roots  along  the  Aiding  plain.  The  men  as  they 
drew  up  the  roots,  ufually  flood  upon  the  firm 
gravel  at  the  bottom  of  the  drain,  the  top 
being  in  many  places  too  foft  for  footing. 

Having  completed  the  drain  or  water-courfe, 
which  is  above  ninety  perches  in  length, 
through  the  great  eaft.  bog,  I  fet  about  making 
a  ftrong  bank,  from  the  eaft  to  the  fouth  bog> 
20  perches  in  length,  and  from  1  5  to  50  feet 
broad  acrofs  the  old  river,  which  was  16  feet 
deep.  For  this  purpofe  I  drove  down  a  row 
of  long  wooden  piles,  and  a  fecond  row  acrofs 
the  river,  and  made  the  bank  by  filling  up  the 
intermediate  fpace  with  fods  well  rammed  and 
preffed  down. 

I  had  the  fatisfaction  to  obferve,  when  I  had 
made  a  fecond  bank,  at  the  lower  or  north  end 
of  the  new  drain,  to  prevent  the  water  from 
returning  back  into  the  channel  of  the  old 
river,  but  at  much  lefs  expenfe  than  the  former 

coft, 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  373 

coft,  that  the  river  run  its  new  channel,  that  I 
immediately  gained  about  10  acres  of  fine  bot- 
toms for  meadows  upon  each  fide  of  the  old 
river,  and  as  the  new  river  was   three  or  four 
feet  higher  than  the  old,  I  obtained  a  fail  for  a 
mill,  which  I  obferved  might  be  increafed,  by 
running  a  deep  drain  through  the  north  bog 
for  a  tail  race,  which  would  alfo  contribute  to 
reclaim  that  bog :  this  I  perfected,  run  it  1 1 
feet   wide  down  to  the  gravel,    94  perch  in 
length,  and  in  fome  parts  into  the  gravel,  to 
preferve  the  level.     I  built  a  bleach  mill,  the 
firft  built  in  the  province  where  the  fall  lav, 
and  the  bog  flnce  reclaimed  about  it,  is  part  of 
the  green  for  bleaching  linen. 

From  my  new  river,  to  a  lake  which  lay 
about  230  perch  to  the  eaft  in  the  great  bog,  I 
cut  a  large  drain  of  that  length,  to  fupply  my 
mill  with  water  from  the  lake,  when  the  river 
fhould  prove  low  in  fummer.  This  work  was 
thought  to  be  impracticable,  the  bog  between 
being  many  feet  higher  than  either  the  lake  or 
the  river,  but  I  know  that  the  lake  was  higher 
than  the  river ;  indeed,  for  the  firft  and  fecond 
year,  it  proved  impracticable,  the  drain,  though 
laid  out  above  ten  feet  wide,  ftill  filling  up  as 
it  was  made:  but  by  perleverance,  and  ftill 
opening  the  drain  at  the  end  where  the  fall  lay, 
at  length  the  lake,  to  the  furprife  of  many,  run 
into  the  river,  and  gave  me  a  new  command 
of  water.  The  whole  bog,  in  ten  years  time, 
funk  amazingly,  and  difclofed  to  me,  from  the 
windows  of  my  houfe,  the  profpect  of  a  coun- 
try 


374  M    O    N    I    V     A. 

try  which  could  not  be  feen  from  them  before; 
but  works   of   this   kind  require   patience  and 

Severance:  for  at  the  end  of  three  years, 
when  curiofity  led  me  to  fee  the  effects  of  a  great 
flood  after  a  very  heavy  fall  of  rain,  i  had  the 
mortification  to  fee  the  great  bank,  which  I 
made  acrofs  the  river,  float  away,  like  a  boat 
before  me.  The  neighbours,  who  for  years 
pail  had  infilled  that  my  father  and  1  had  un- 
dertaken an  impracticable  work,  applauded 
their  own  judgment  upon  the  occafion,  and 
endeavoured  to  diffuade  me  from  any  further 
purfuit;  but  inftead  of  following  their  advice, 
J  immediately  provided  a  boat,  (for  horfes  and 
cars  could  not,  without  great  difficulty,  be 
brought  to  the  place)  and  with  its  affiftance  con- 
veyed ftones  fufficient  to  fill  up  the  channel  of 
the  old  river,  the  breadth  of  the  bank,  and  af- 
terwards, by  bog  Huff  brought  by  boat,  and 
funk  in  the  front  of  the  bank,  I  made  it  ftaunch; 
then  raifed  it  by  fod  work,  and  planted  trees  on 
the  top  of  it,  by  which  means  it  has  remained 
firm,  and  anfw?ered  my  whole  defign  for  thefe 
nineteen  years  pall.  When  I  erected  my  mill, 
and  made  fluices  to  keep  up  the  water  for  it,  I 
obferved  that  my  new  liver  thereby  became  na-* 

tble  for  a  boat,  as  well  as  the  old  river,  and 

t  it  might  prove  very  advantageous  for  the 
conveyance  of  manures,  if  a  communication 
was  made  from  one  to  the  other;  but  this  was 
difficult,  as  the  new  river,  in  time  of  flood,  was 
four  or  live  feet  higher  in  its  level  than  the  old 

\  yet  I  overcame  the  difficulty,  by  cutting 
tble  line  16  perch  in    ::  gth,    •    ere  was 


M    O    N    I    V     A. 


o 


IS 


firm  gravel  at  the  bottom,  from  river  to  river, 
and  built  a  water  lock  at  the  edge  of  the  new 
river,  where  I  found  a  firm  foundation  at  the 
bottom  of  the  bog.     It  anfwered  my  purpofe, 
gave  me  a  great  command  of  water ;  for  by 
opening  the  flaices  of  the  lock,  I  can  at  any 
time  overflow  my  meadows,  which  lie  on  each 
fide  of  the  old  river :  it  has  flood  now  for  about 
1 8  years.     When  I  obferved  the  advantages 
which  arofe  from  being  able  to  convey  manures 
by  boat,  I  proceeded,  and  cut  a  navigable  line 
30  perch  long,  20  feet  wide  from  the  new  river, 
above  the  great  bank  into  the  fouth  great  bog, 
and  cut  another  navigable  line  32  perch  long, 
12  feet  wide,  from  the  old  river  northward  in- 
to the  north  bog,  and  another  navigable  line 
through  the  fame  bog  weft  ward,  in  a  winding 
direction,  for  the  fake  of  beauty,  50  perch  long, 
and  20  feet  wide ;  and  cut  another  line  2  1  perch 
long,  and    14  feet  wide  fouthward,  from  the 
Weftern  line,  which   brings  my   boat  into  my 
farm-yard,  and  enables  it  tq  proceed  through 
all  the  navigable  lines  which  communicate  with 
each  other.     Several  fprings  of  water  rofe  from 
the  uplands,  which  lye  weft  of  the  north  bog, 
and  probably  were  the  caufe  of  that  bog  in  the 
before-mentioned  navigable   line,    which   run 
towards  thefe  fprings.     I  built  a  fecond  water- 
lock,  and  turned  an  arch  over  it,  as  it  ftands  in 
one  of  the  approaches  to  my  hp.ujej  by  ftiut- 
ting  the  gates  of  this  lock,  the  fprings  which 
run  into  the  river,  beins  intercepted,  a  iheet 
of  water  overfp reads  near  two  acres  in  my  lawn, 
which  lies  between  the  wood  and  my  houfe,  and 

the 


376  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

the  boats  are  thereby  enabled  to  go  to  the  high- 
lands, where  there  is  plenty  of  gravel  to  manure 
the  bogs.  I.  made  my  navigable  lines  by  bank- 
ing out  the  water,  and  keeping  the  drains 
empty  by  fcrew  pumps  of  about  13  feet  long, 
which  were  worked  by  two  men  relieving  each 
other  day  and  night,  which  my  own  carpenter 
made,  and  alfo  built  my  locks  before  he  had 
feen  any  thing  of  the  kind,  until  he  admired 
his  own  works.  Whilft  I  was  executing  the 
works  which  I  have  defcribed,  I  proceeded  to 
reclaim  the  bogs  adjacent  to  them.  The  lines 
I  have  mentioned  divided  the  north  bog  into  4 
parts,  which  I  inclofed  by  fmallcr  drains  into  fo 
many  little  parks ;  it  is  entirely  reclaimed,  and 
has  been  for  feveral  years  paft  under  tillage  and 
meadow,  and  yet,  now,  though  it  has  fubfided 
confiderably,  an  iron  borer  of  1 8  feet,  does  not 
in  feveral  parts  thereof  reach  the  bottom  of  the 
bog:  it  wTas  full  of  holes,  out  of  which  turf  for 
fuel  had  been  formerly  cut,  the  levelling  of 
which  added  much  to  the  expenfe  of  reclaim- 
ing. The  earl  bog,  from  the  ifland  to  the  old 
river,  is  all  reclaimed,  except  two  or  three 
acres  towards  the  fouth,  and  has  likewife  been 
under  tillage  and  meadow  for  fome  years  paft„ 
I  reclaimed  thefe  two  bogs,  by  covering  the 
furface  with  lime-ftone  gravel,  then  laid  a  coat 
of  dung  over  it,  and  planted  potatoes  upon  the 
dun?;  the  next  year  fowed  oats,  or  rye  and 
grafs  feeds,  and  the  following  year  mowed  the 
produce:  the  bog  was  fo  wet,  that  1  cut  feveral 
fmall  drains,  which  I  fince  filled  up,  when  they 

had 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  377 

had  performed  their  office.     To  lay  the  gravel 
on,  I  was  obliged  to  make  roads  with  hurdles, 
to  bear  up  fmall  horfes,  which  carried  the  gravel 
in  bafkets  upon  their  backs,  and  to  remove  the 
hurdles  from  place  to  place,  as  occafion  requir- 
ed; the  boats  laid  the  gravel  and  manures  upon 
the  fides  of  the  rivers   and  the  drains,   from 
.whence  the  horfes  conveyed  them.     The  fub- 
fiding  of  this  bog  is  remarkable;  if  I  lhould  lay 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  I  think  that  I  fhould 
not  exceed:  when  I  firft  cut  the  new  river,  the 
bog  rofe  in  a  hill  between  it  and  the  old  river j 
there  is  now  a  fall  the  whole  way,  except  where 
the  hill  flood,  which  is  the  loweft  part.     The 
bog  is  now  fo  firm  as  to  bear  a  loaded  cart.     I 
floped  the  fides  of  the  hollows,  where  for  fome 
years  I  had  cut  turfs ;  being  advifed  to  cut  the 
bog  away,  but  that  would  be  the  work  of  ages; 
and  where  the  furface  was  cut  off  proved  moft 
barren,  and  required  moil  manure:  thefe  hol- 
lows are  now  little  green  vales  •  and  pofterity 
will  puzzle,  as  fome  do  at  prePjnt,  to  find  the 
caufe  of  them.     After  the  firft  crops  were  taken 
off,  and  mowed  for  two  or  three  years,  I  ob- 
ferved  little  tufts  of  heath  began  to  appear  in 
the  meadows ;  where  thefe  appeared,  fome  parts 
I  tilled  again;  put  dung  upon  others ;  but  lime 
effectually  banifhed  them;  and  fc  did  a  mixture 
of  kelp  and  afhes,    the  refufe  of  the  bleach- 
green,    which  proved   the  richeft   manure.     I 
fpread  river-mud  upon  one  or  two  acres,  which 
had  little  effect,  only  produced  a  fedgey  fpirey 
grafs,  until  dung  was  laid  over  it;  marie  had 
fomewhat  a  better  effect  than  the  river-mud, 

but 


378  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

but  marie,  mixed  with  dung,  proved  very  good; 
lime,  dung,  or  kelp,  broke  fine  into  powder, 
proved  the  beft.  I  reclaimed  above  one  acre, 
by  gravelling,  and  laying  a  coat  of  frefli  lime 
over  the  gravel,  and  planted  potatoes  upon  the 
lime,  without  any  dung;  the  potatoes  were 
fmall,  and  lay  thin  when  dug  out,  but  the  corn, 
which  fucceeded  them,  proved  very  good,  and 
the  bog  was  thereby  well-reclaimed.  It  fhould 
be  obferved,  that  all  the  ftone  and  gravel  of  this 
country  is  lime-ilone.  1  tried  to  reclaim  part 
by  burning,  but  the  red  bogs,  which  mine  were, 
proved  too  wet  and  fpongy;  the  aibes  were 
white,  and  fo  light  that  they  had  little  effect 
In  the  manner  I  have  defcribed,  I  reclaimed 
about  five  acres  of  the  fouth  bog,  which  lay 
within  the  navigable  line;  but  not  being  able 
to  purfue  my  navigation  into  this  bog,'  the  gra- 
vel at  the  bottom  of  the  bog  rifing  above  the 
level  of  my  upper  river,  without  considerable 
expenfe,  and  the  addition  of  another  water- 
lock,  1  made  a  firm  gravel  road  into  the  bog, 
firlt  dividing  one  of  the  large  divisions,  made  by 
my  father;  by  two  crofs  drains  ten  feet  wide, 
into  four  divisions,  which  made  the  bog  pretty 
dry;  I  then  laid  dung,  two  or  three  inches 
thick,  upon  the  furfaceof  the  bog,  without  any 
gravel  or  other  manures  under :  I  obferve,  that 
the  crops  of  potatoes,  corn,  and  meadow  follow- 
ing, were  full  as  good  as  thofe  where  the  gravel 
was  firft  laid  on,  which  in  wet  bogs  fink  too 
Suddenly,  1  would  therefore  advife,  and  intend 
to  purine,  trie  I  .  on  of  gravel  after  the  bog 
been  mowed  for  two  or  three  years :  the 

expenfe 


M    O    N    I    V     A.  379 

expenfe  of  gravelling  an  acre  at  the  firft,  is,  at 
the  leaft,  from  four  to  fix  pounds  ;  and  as  you 
proceed  further  into  the  bog,  the  expenfe  muft 
increafe;  therefore  where  dung  is  to  be  had  in 
plenty,  it  is  the  heft  material  for  reclaiming  a 
bog;  but  I  think  that  compofts  made  with  lime 
and  earth  mixed,  or  lime  and  moor,  may  an- 
fwer  the  end  of  dung,  which  I  have  not  yet 
iufriciently  tried,  but  intend  fo  to  do. 

To  enumerate  feveral  other  drains  which  I 
made  in  the  eaft   and  fouth  bogs,  to  prepare 
them  for  reclaiming,  would  prove  too  tedious. 
I  ufually  cut  them  ten  feet  wide  ;  but  it  is  diffi- 
cult in  a  wet  bog  to  afcertain  the  depth  of  a 
drain  until  the  bog  has  fubfided  for  years.     In 
making  the  drain,  which  I  have  mentioned  from 
the  lake  to  the  river,  30  or  40  men  working  in 
the  fame  part  of  the  drain  for  four  or  five  days 
without  intermifnon,  except  at  night,  could  not 
bring  the  drain,  in  the  evenings,  to  be  deeper 
than  from  one  to  two  feet  deep,  and  both  the 
overfeer  and  men  were  all  fo  out  of  patience, 
that  they  were  with  difficulty  perfuaded  to  con- 
tinue the  work ;  but  as  I  rode  round  the  bog,  I 
obferved   that  the  bog  was  fubfiding,  and  that 
they  were  gaining  the  level,  though  they  did 
not   perceive   it-,    for  the  flufti  flung  by  the 
fhovels  out  of  the  drain  prefTed  down  the  bog 
and  fqueezed  out  the  water  into  the  drain  which 
ran  off,  as  I  begun  where  the  fall  lay;  the  bog 
was  fo  foft  that  the  men  were  obliged  to  itand 
upon   boards  as  they  worked,  to  prevent  them 
from  finking  :   the  bogs  which  I  firft  reclaimed 

are 


sSo  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

are  ftill  fubfiding.  I  had,  the  laft  fummer,  32. 
acres  of  the  bogs,  which  I  have  defcribed  all 
under  tillage  and  meadow;  I  alfo  mowed  ten 
acres  of  the  bottoms  on  the  river  fides,  between 
the  reclaimed  bogs;  and  other  ten  acres  of  bot- 
toms by  the  fame  river,  made  meadow  by  banks 
cafl  up  round  them,  to  guard  againft  floods, 
planted  with  alder  and  fallows:  I  have  fix  acres 
more  of  the  eaft  bog  reclaimed  by  a  coat  of  gra- 
vel only,  never  tilled,  but  referved  for  pafture; 
but  they  are  far  inferior  to  the  tilled  bogs,  and 
will  not  be  meadow  until  covered  with  other 
manure,  and  tilled.  I  cannot  afcertain  the 
depth  of  feveral  parts  of  my  reclaimed  bogs,  as 
my  borer  of  1 8  feet  long  does  not  reach  the 
bottom  of  the  north  and  eaft  bogs;  the  fouth 
bog  is  all  12  and  13  feet  deep:  but  towards  the 
verge  they  are  fhallower.  The  navigable  lines 
which  I  have  defcribed,  encompafs  31  acres, 
except  on  part  of  the  weft  fide,  where  my  houfe 
ftands;  thefe  I  call  my  garden  or  fm'all  farm, 
through  which  the  old  river  winds;  clumps  of 
fpruce  fir,  beech  and  alder,  grow  well  on  the 
fides  of  the  new  river,  where  gravel  was  thrown 
on  the  banks  from  the  bottom  wThen  it  was  firft 
made ;  the  broad-leaved  elm  interfperfed  through 
the  meadows  reclaimed  from  the  bog,  alfo 
thrive;  I  have  two  fmall  groves  on  each  fide  of 
the  water  lock,  of  a  fpontaneous  growth,  from 
the  deep  reclaimed  bog,  confifting  of  quicken  or 
mountain  aft,  birch,  holly,  and  fallow,  fome 
of  which  are  from  17  to  above  20  feet  high.  In 
making  my  navigable  line,  which  runs  wTeft  to 

the 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  38i 

the  edge  of  my  lawn,  I  difcovered  by  my  borer 
that  a  bed  of  white  marie,  at  the  depth  of  16 
feet,  lay  under  the  north  bog;  the  bed  of  marie 
proved  to  be  five  feet  thick,  under  which  lay  a 
ffratum  of  gravel,  from  fix  to  nine  inches  thick, 
under  which  ffratum  of  gravel  lay  another  bed 
of  marie,  four  feet  thick.  In  the  laft  dry  fum- 
mer,  by  the  aid  of  my  fcrevv-pumps,  I  raifed  a 
great  quantity  of  this  marie,  which  leads  me  to 
claim  a  medal  for  reclaiming  dry  heathy  moun- 
tain, upon  which,  after  ploughing,  I  fpread  the 
marie.  But  I  fear  that  I  have  tired  you,  as  I 
have  myfelf,  and  fhall  for  the  prefent,  only 
prefent  my  refpecls  to  the  Society,  and  allure 
you  that  I  am, 

Dear  Sir, 

Your  moft  obedient  Servant, 

ROBERT  FRENCH. 

It  may  be  objected  that  the  works  were  begun 
previous  to  the  publication  of  the  premiums;  I 
doubt  whether  it  be  poifible  to  reclaim  fuch 
bogs  in  lefs  than  eight  or  ten  years;  the  water 
muff  have  time  to  ouze  from  fponges,  which 
fuch  bogs  are:  to  reclaim  them  very  expediti- 
oufly  would  exceed  the  expenfe  of  a  private 
fortune. 

To  the  Rev.  Peter  Chaigneau,  aiTiftant 
fecretary  to  the  Dublin  Society. 

Mr. 


382  M    O    N    I    V     A, 

Mr.  French  remarks,  that  the  expenfe  of 

improving  bogs,  equally  fpoiigy  and  wet,  with 
this,  is  very  considerable,  for  the  drains  will 
for  fome  time  fill  up  admoit  as  fad  as  made. 
"When  the  draining  is  finifhed,  the  main  drains 
fhould  be  left  five  feet  det- p,  and  the  breadth 
iuit.  fufficient  to  keep  the  banks  up:  crofs  drains, 
of  a  fmalier  dimeniion,  muft  be  made,  which, 
when  the  bog  is  perfectly  drained,  may  be  filled 
up  again.  As  to  the  expenfe,  he  obferves,  that 
it  muft  neceffarily  vary  greatly :  but  the  very 
worft  fort  may  be  completely  done  for  61.  an 
acre.  Manuring  with  gravel,  lime,  or  clay, 
may  in  general  be  eflimated  at  61.  Then  Mr. 
French  would  by  all  means  plant  potatoes,  in 
the  trenching  manner,  for  the  fake  of  mixing 
the  manure,  which  is  laid  on  with  the  furface 
of  the  bog,  and  alfo  for  the  ufe  of  the  trenches, 
as  furface  drains.  The  crop  of  potatoes,  if  a 
moderate  quantity  of  dung  is  fpread  for  them, 
will  be  equal  to  any  in  the  country,  that  is, 
worth  iol.  an  acre  i  but  if  no  dung,  they  will 
not  more  than  pay  the  expenfe  of  iced,  plant- 
ing, and  taking  up.  In  the  fpring  after,  dig  it 
flightly,  levei  the  trenches,  and  fow  oats  ;  the 
digging  will  not  colt  more  than  io.s.  an  acre. 
The  crop  of  oats  will  be  1 2  barrels,  or  rye,  will 
be  a  great  produce.  With  this  corn,  the  grafs 
feeds  fhould  be  fown  ;  rye  grafs  (Ioliumperenne) 
and  white  grafs  (holcus  lanatus)  do  well ;  com- 
mon hay  feeds  good.  The  firft  year  a  car  muft 
not  go  on,  but  the  hay  brought  off  by  men. 
The  fecond  year  it  will  bear  cars,  and  would 
then  let  for  10s.  an  acre,  for  three  years  only; 

2 is.  an 


M    O    N     I    V    A.  383 

zjs,  an  acre  for  hay.  After  that,  a  frefh  ma- 
nuring, with  a  compoft  of  lime  and  earth,  or 
lime  and  gravel,  and  then  would  let  at  15s.  It 
the  land  for  potatoes  is  well  dunged,  the  poor 
will  pay  4I.  an  acre  for  it ;  and  the  hay,  inftead 
of  2 is.  will  let  at  3I, 

In  relation  to  his  mountain-moor  improve- 
ment, the  ftate  o^  the  foil  before  improving  was 
that  of  continued  heath,  (erica  vulgaris)  with 
great  quantities  of  lime-ilones  on  the  furface. 
Mr.  French,  in  the  firft  place,  ploughed  it  with 
fix  bullocks,  which  did  not  do  more  than  one- 
fourth  of  an  acre  a  day,  as  the  roots  of  the 
heath  made  it  ftrong  work.  As  they  turned 
up  the  ftones,  or  were  impeded  by  them,  they 
were  drawn  away  in  cars  to  make  the  wails. 
Left  it  after  the  ploughing  from  half  a  year  to 
a  year,  and  then  broke  it,  crofs-ploughed,  and 
harrowed  it ;  in  all  four  ploughingS;  after  the 
laft,  harrowed  it  fmooth,  and  limed.  Began 
with  60  barrels  an  acre,  but  increafed  it  to  one 
hundred,  and  to  two  hundred,  and  found  the 
crops  better  and  better,  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity.  Upon  the  liming  fowed  the  wheat, 
and  harrowed  it  in.  The  crop  has  been  gene- 
rally from  five  to  feven  barrels  an  acre.  The 
following  year  either  barley  or  cats :  of  barley, 
the  crops  have  been  middling,  about  eight  bar- 
rels, if  oats, -twelve  barrels.  After  either  the 
barley  or  oats,  another  crop  of  oats,  equally 
good,  and  with  that  lowed  ha  5,  or  rye 

grafs  and  clover.  Before  the  improvement  it 
let  at  4s.  c;d.  twenty-five  years  ago,  and  if  the 

fame 


s. 

d. 

2 

6  per  perch 

I 

i 

3 

7 

2 

6 

6 

i 

3$4  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

fame  heath  was  to  be  fet  out  now,  it  would  be 
worth  eight  {hillings.  After  the  oats  above- 
mentioned,  has  fet  it  readily  at  14s.  Dividing 
the  lands  into  divifions  of  from  fifteen  to  twen- 
ty-acred pieces,  clears  them  of  itones,  and  the 
expenfe  of  the  walls,   is 


Drawing  the  ftones 
Building  dry 

If  coped  and  da(hed,  the  additional 
expenle  will  be 


They  are  all  lime-ftone  lands,  and  make  very 
fine  fheep-walks.  Before  the  improvement  very 
many  fheep  died  on  thefe  grounds,  of  the  red- 
water,  but  fince  the  liming  this  has  not  hap- 
pened ;  nor  would  it  before  give  flax,  but  now 
very  fine. 

Mr.  French  burns  the  lime  in  perpetual  kilns 
"  with  turf,  laying  in  the  turf  and  ftone  in  layers, 
the  fame  as  culm,  and  all  expenfes  included, 
amount  to  4d.  a  barrel  roach,  of  32  gallons. 
Two  cubical  yards  of  turf  will  burn  one  cu- 
bical yard  of  flone.  If  the  turf  is  very- 
good,  one  and  an  half  will  do.  He  tried  French 
kilns,  in  which  he  burned  1 500  and  2000  bar- 
rels, but  found  it  very  uncertain,  frequently 
having  the  ftone  come  out  unburnt.  A  kiln  of 
1500  barrels,  comes  to  25I.  but  often  it  ran  to 
40L  he  has  upon  the  whole,  found  it  far  better 

to 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  385 

to  ufe  the  other  fort,  which  are  cheaper,  and 
more  certain.  Another  fort  of  mountain  land, 
is  the  wet,  boggy  fort,  one  to  four  feet  deep, 
which  he  improved  by  digging  off  almoft  all 
the  bog  for  lime;  then  ploughed  it  with  fix 
bullocks,  and  let  it  to  the  poor  from  a  guinea 
to  thirty  (hillings  an  acre,  for  them  to  burn, 
harrow,  and  plant  potatoes;  after  which  they 
pay  asvmuch  more  for  a  crop  of  oats.  Then 
limes  it,  takes  another  crop  of  oats,  and  fows 
graffes  with  it;  after  this  improvement,  lets  as 
well  as  the  other.  White  marie,  from  under 
a  bog,  Mr.  French  tried,  for  improving  four- 
teen acres  of  dry  mountain  land;  the  effect  was 
much  the  fame  as  that  of  lime,  but  more  ex- 
penfive,  from  the  difficulty  of  getting  it.  In 
the  year  1744,  when  Mr.  French  came  to  his 
eftate,  there  was  no  other  linen  manufacture 
than  a  little  handle  linen,  merely  for  their  own 
confumption,  with  no  other  fpinning  than  for 
that,  and  even  for  this,  there  w;ts  not  more 
than  one  loom  in  100  cabbins.  In  1746,  he 
undertook  to  eftablifh  a  better  fabric,  and  with 
more  extenfive  views.  He  firif.  began  by  erect- 
ing (pinning  fchools,  and  fowing  flax,  twenty- 
one  acres  of  which  he  fowed  on  his  own  ac- 
count. t  The  linen  board  gave  at  that  time  one 
penny  a  day  to  ail  children  that  went  to  any 
fpinning  fchools,  which  was  of  ufe;  but  the 
providing  flax  Mr.  French  found  of  the  greateft 
ufe.  In  1749,  he  eftabiiihed  eight  weavers  and 
their  families,  and  the  fame  year  built  a  bleach 
mill,  and  formed  a  green,  and  to  C3rry  it  on 
to  advantage,  lent  a  lad  into  the  north,  and 
Vol.  h  D  d  bound 


386  M    O    N    I    V    A. 

bound  him  apprentice  there,  in  order  to  learn 
the  whole  bufinefs.  Upon  his  return,  he  ma- 
naged the  manufactory  for  Mr.  French,  buy- 
ing the  yarn,  paying  weavers  for  weaving  it  by 
the  yard,  bleaching  and  felling  it.  In  this 
manner  it  went  on  for  fifteen  years ;  but  as  in 
this  ftate  it  was  dependent  on  Mr.  French's  life, 
he  enabled  this  manager  to  take  the  whole 
upon  his  own  account,  binding  him  to  keep 
every  weaver  on  the  eflate  employed,  whatever 
might  be  the  number.  The  progrefs  of  this 
undertaking,  united  with  the  agricultural  im- 
provements, will  be  feen  by  the  following  re- 
turns of  the  Moniva  eflate,  at  different  periods. 

In  1 744.  There  were  three  farmers,  and  fix  or 
eight  fhepherds  and  cow-herds. 

In  1 77 1.  There  were  two  hundred  and  forty- 
eight  houfes,  ninety  looms,  and 
two  hundred  fixty-eight  wheels. 

In  1772.  Two  hundred  and  fifty-feven  houfes, 
ninety-three  looms,  and  two  hun- 
dred eighty- eight  wheels. 

In  1776.  Two  hundred  feventy-fix  houfes, 
ninety-fix  looms,  and  three  hun- 
dred and  feventy  wheels. 

Here,  in  a  few  words,  is  the  progrefs  of  a  raoft 
noble  undertaking;  and  I  fhould  obferve,  that 
it  is  doubly  beneficial  from  one  circumflance. 
All  thefe  weavers  are  mere  cottagers  in  a  town 
without  any  land,  except  a  cabbage-garden,  by 
which  means  they  have  nothing  to  do  with 
farming,  but  become  a  market  to  the  farmers 

that 


M    O    N    I    V    A.  387 

that  furround  them,  which  is  what  all  manu- 
facturers ought  to  be,  inftead  of  fpreading  over 
the  country,  to  the  deftruction  of  agriculture. 
Another  circumftance  in  which  Mr.  French  has 
given  a  new  face  to  Moniva,  and  its  environs, 
is  by  planting ;  he  found  a  confiderable  wood 
of  birch,  which  being  a  fhabby  tree,  and  not 
improving,  he  cut  them  gradually  down,  and 
planted  oak,  elm,  and  beach,  with  various  other 
forts;  he  began  this  thirty  years  ago,  and  no 
year  paries  without  his  making  fome  new  plan- 
tation. By  properly  managing  this  wood  of 
1 1 1  acres,  he  has  made  it  pay  him  150I.  a  year, 
ever  fince,  and  there  is  now  more  than  thrice 
the  value  of  timber  in  it,  to  what  there  was 
when  he  began.  Whatever  he  has  planted  has 
anfwered  well,  but  the  growth  of  the  beach  is 
the  greateft.  That  of  the  oak  is  very  great, 
and  more  flouriihing  than  ever  Mr.  French 
expected  to  fee  them  at  the  time  of  planning. 
The  broad-leaved  elm  thrives  very  well  upon 
the  bogs,  after  they  are  cultivated.  Mr.  French 
has  tried  mod  forts  of  trees  in  rows  along  the 
hedges,  but  none  of  them  have  fucceeded,  the 
weft  winds  cut  them  in  pieces;  fince  which  he 
makes  inclofures,  and  plants  them  thick. 

I  ought  npt  to  forget  obferving  that  Mr. 
French  fupports  a  charter-fchool  at  his  own 
expenfe,  wherein  are  from  twenty  to  forty 
children,  conftantly  fupported,  cloathed,  and 
taught  to  read  and  write,  and  to  fpin  and 
weave, 

I>d  2  Farms 


3SS  M     O     N     I     V     A. 

Farms  around  Moniva  confift,   principally, 
of  large  (lock  ones,    from  200  to  500  acres, 
with  very  few  cabbins  upon  them  j  the  tillage 
of  the  country  is  principally  carried  on  by  vil- 
lagers, who   take  farms  in  partnerfhip.     Mr. 
French's  are  generally  from  20  to  130  acres. 
There  will  fometimes  be  from  ten  to  thirty 
families    on  a   farm   of  200   acres  ;  but  Mr. 
French  finds  that  they  do  not  thrive  well  if 
there   are  more  than  fix  families  to  one  farm. 
The  foil  to  the  weft  of  Moniva,  is  a  lime-ftone 
gravel,  mixed  with  a  clay,  fome  of  it  upon  clay: 
to  the  eaft  it  is  a  deeper  and  richer  clay,  and 
lime-ftone  all  the  way  to  the  Shannon.     The 
whole  county  lime-ftone,  except  the  mountain- 
ous tracts  on  the  weft,  beyond  Loch  Carril, 
and  the  mountains  to  the  fouth  of  Loch  Rea. 
Rents  in  this  neighbourhood  rife  generally  from 
i2s.to  16s.  except  old  leafes,  which  are  6s.  or 
7s.     The  richeft  part  of  the  county  is  between 
Lochrea  and  Portumne,  thence  to  Eyre-court, 
Clonfert,    and  Aghrim.     The   third    of    the 
county  is  bog,  lake,  and  unimproved  moun- 
tain ;  but  moil  of  the  latter  yields  fome  trifling 
rent,  the  whole  third,  perhaps  three-pence  an 
acre  j  the  other  two-thirds,  12s.  at  an  average. 
The  ifles  of  Arran  contain  7000  acres,  belong 
to  John  Digby,  Efq;  and  let  at  about  2000I.  a 
year.     The  great  tract  of  mountain  is  the  three 
Baronies  of  Eyre  Connaught,   Pvofs,  Ballyna- 
hinch  and  Moycullen  ;  they  are    forty  miles 
long,  and  fifteen  broad,  and  are  in  general  un- 
cultivated.    The    principal    proprietors    are, 
Robert  Martin,  Efq;  Thomas  French,  ofMoy- 

*  culien, 


COUNTY  OF   GALWAY.     389 

cullen,  Efq;  and  Patrick  Blake,  Efq;  of  Drum; 

— Lynch,  of   Barna  ; Geohage'n,  Efq;  of 

Bowown;  Lynch,    Efq;    Drumrong; 

Sir  John  O'Flaharty,  &c.  Mr.  Martin  has  the 
largeft  tract;  he  has  let  to  Mr.Popham,  14,000 
Irifh  acres,  for  three  lives,  at  no  rent  at  all ; 
then  three  lives  more  at  150I.  a  year;  and 
after  them  for  fixty-one  years,  at  the  fame 
rent;  and  Mr.Popham  has  fome  men  at  work 
upon  improving,  from  England  and  Leinfter. 
There  is  lime-ftone  gravel  upon  a  part  of  the 
land,  but  not  generally  in  Eyre  Connaught, 
any  more  than  lime-ftone ;  at  lead  according 
to  common  report. 

Courfes  of  Crops  about  Moniva. 
1.  Potatoes.     2.  Bere.     3.  Oats.     4.  Oats. 
1.  Potatoes.     2.  Flax.     3.  Oats.     4.  Oats. 

There  are  fome  good  tillage  farmers  towards 
the  Shannon,  who  low  grafs  feeds.  They  alio 
low  fucceflive  crops  till  the  land  is  exhaufted, 
and  leave  it  for  fome  time  to  graze  itfelf.  No 
ploughing  or  harrowing  by  the  tail,  nor  any 
burning  the  corn  inftead  of  threlhing,  but 
thefe  practices  were  very  common  30  years 
ago.  The  meafure  of  potatoes  is  the  barrel  of 
42  ftone ;  five  plant  an  acre,  the  average  price 
6s.  or  8s.  at  the  beffinnirig  of  the  feaibn ;  to 
1  os.  or  12s.  at  the  latter  end.  The  average 
produce  25  barrels,  or  rdl.  Oats  yield  about 
8  barrels.  Of  flax,  a  hogihead  fovvs  2  acres. 
It  is  but  lately  that  they  have  faved  their  feed, 
but  it  is  now  coming  in  j  a  rood  common  crop 


390     COUNTY  OF   GALWAY. 

is  4  cwt.  of  fcutched  flax,  and  the  medium 
price  40s.  a  cwt.     There  are  confiderable  im^ 
provements  of  mountain,  and  fome  of  bog,  that 
have  been  carried  on  by  the  poor  villagers. 
They  dig  and  burn  the  mountain,  and  get  by 
that  means  very  fine  potatoes  without  dung, 
paying  20s.  an  acre  for  it.     If  they  have  the 
land  to  themfelves,   they  will,   after  the  pota- 
toes, get  good  wheat,  and  after  that,    feyeral 
crops  of  oats,  till  the  land  is  exhaufted.     Thefe 
village  farmers,  I  remarked,  as  I  went  through 
the  country,  were  indufhious  in  forming  com- 
ports  of  boggy    moor,  turf,  and  lime-ftone, 
with  what  dung  they  can  raife.     They  were 
now  making  ready  againft  the  winter's  dung  ; 
thefe  are  for  potatoes  the  following  fpring,  and 
they  find  it  anfweis  fo  well  that  the  practice 
increafed  very  fad.     Such  of  them  as  are  near 
the  bogs,   Mr.  French  gives   the  bog  to  them 
for  10  years  rent  free,  and  then  they  pay  him 
3  os.  an  acre  for  it.     They  drain  them,  manure 
with  lime-ftone  gravel  and  a  little  dung,  and 
plant  potatoes,  getting  fine  crops,  and  good 
corn  afterwards.     In  one  of  the  bogs  which 
a  village  was  cutting  away,  the  men  called  Mr. 
French  to  it,  to  fhew  him  the  old  ridge  and 
furrow  at  the  bottom,  and  he  found  them  per- 
fect.    It, was  4  feet  deep:  that  this  country 
was  once  generally  cultivated,  there  are  other 
figns.     There  are  vaft  numbers  of  lime-ftone 
gravel  pits  among  the  mountain  heathy  lands, 
though  there  is  not  the  leaft  tradition  when 
they  were  ufed, 


COUNTY  OF  GALWAY.     391 

The  principal  flock  in  this  country  is.fheep 
for  breeding,  the  fale  being  wethers,  which  they 
fell  fat  at  Ballinafloe ;  and  wool,  of  which  they 
clip  from  the  ewes  41b.  and  from  the  wethers 
5lb.  fells  now  at  above  is.  a  lb.     Mr.  French 
remembers  the  price  of  wool,  50  years  ago,  at 
6s.  and  7s.  a  Hone  ;   1744  was  reckoned  a  very 
high  year,  and  he  fold  27  bags,  at  10s.  6d.  a 
ftone :  but  as  he  got  out  of  flock,  he  has  not 
fince  had  more  than  two  bags.     In  1745,  &c. 
it  fell  to  8s.  a  ftone.     The  great  rife  of  the 
price  of  wool,  Mr.  French  attributes  to  the 
low  price  of  fpinning  and  the  increafe  of  til- 
lage.    The  flock  farmers  who  are  good  mana- 
gers, all  have  two  farms,  one  as  a  dry  one,  in 
this  neighbourhood  for  winter,  and  another  in 
the  deeper  richer  lands  in  the  eaftern  part  of 
the  county,  for  fummer  feeding  and  fatting. 
Three  year  old  wethers,  from  the  light  foils 
here,   fell   at  from  15s.  to   25s.  each.     It  is 
reckoned  good  land  here  that  will  fnpport  three 
fheep  per  acre  the  whole  year  round.     The 
fyftem  of  grazing  is  to  buy  yearlings,  at  from 
35s.  to  3I.  3s.  and  fell  out  at  four  year  old,  at 
from  4I.  4s.  to  61.   6s.     They  fometimes  fell 
them  at  three  year  old. 

They  plough  with  horfes,  but  the  gentle- 
men, moftlv  with  oxen;  they  have  not  the 
Mayo  cuftom,  of  walking  backwards  before 
them,  nor  do  they  harnefs  them  all  abreaft,  but 
two  and  two.  They  winnow  all  their  corn  in 
the  field  to  blow  away  the  chaff.  They  will 
take  a  grazing  farm,  with  three  years  rent,  for 

(lock. 


392     COUNTY  OF  GALWAY. 

ftock.  Land  fells  at  21  years  purchafe.  The 
rents  have  fallen  fince  1772,  but  are  now  rifing 
from  the  greater  price  of  wool,  black  cattle,  and 
linen.  Tythes  are  compounded  by  the  proc- 
tors with  gentlemen,  but  they  fcrew  up  the 
poor  people  to  the  utmoft.  There  are  ftili 
many  men  who  make  it  their  bufinefs  to  hire 
large  tracts  of  land  in  order  to  re-let  at  advan- 
ced rents.  Population  increafes  greatly,  yet 
many  of  them  live  very  poorly  upon  potatoes 
and  water,  with  fome  oatmeal.  There  are 
many  that  have  no  cows,  only  a  houfe  and  a 
garden.  The  grafs  of  a  cow  is  30s.  This  is 
not  the  cafe,  however,  at  Moniva;  there  they 
have  all  cows,  and  are  very  rarely  without 
milk.  Rent  of  a  cabbin  and  an  acre,  20s. 
building  the  cabbin  for  them  (elves ;  and  30s. 
if  it  is  built  for  them.  There  were  many 
emigrants  from  Galvvay  to  America,  but  only 
of  the  loofe  idle  people.  The  general  religion 
is  roman  catholic,  but  about  Moniva  chiefly 
protectant. 

Mr.  Andrew  French,  of  Rathone  Galway, 
who  I  met  at  Moniva,  favoured  me  with  the 
following  particulars.  At  Galway  there  is  a 
falmon  fimery,  which  lets  at  200I.  a  year  3 
and  in  the  bay  of  Galway  they  have  a  confider- 
abie  herring  fiihery.  There  are  belonging  to 
the  town  200  to  250  boats,  40  or  50  of  which 
are  employed  in  the  fpring  fifhery,  for  cod, 
hake,  mackarel,  &c.  &c.  Thefe  boats  are  from 
4  to  6  tons,  lome  q  tons.  They  cofl  building, 
2ol,  a  boat,  and  the  nets  and  tackle,   1  5I.  the 

nets 


G     A     L     W     A     Y.  393 

nets  are  of  hemp,  tanned  with  bark.  There 
are  five  or  fix  men  to  a  boat ;  they  fifh  by 
fhares,  dividing  into  fixty  :  they  have  had  this 
fifhery  time  immemorial.  The  plenty  of  filh 
has  decreafed  thefe  15  years.  A  middling 
night's  take  is  5000  fifh  ;  all  they  get  is  fold 
into  the  country,  and  the  demand  is  fo  far 
from  being  anfwered,  that  many  cargoes  are 
brought  in  from  the  north.  The  fifh  fell  at 
is.  4d.  to  2S.  2d.  a  hundred  j  but  the  men 
are  far  from  being  induftrious  in  the  buiinefs : 
fome  weeks  they  do  not  go  out  twice. 

On  the  coaft  of  Conna  Marra  there  is,  from 
the  iothof  April  to  the  iothof  May,  a  fifh- 
ery of  fun-fifh,  which  is  done  by  the  herring 
boats.  It  is  not  by  fhares,  but  the  owners  of 
the  boats  hire  the  men  for  the  fifhery.  One 
fifh  is  reckoned  worth  5I.  and  if  a  boat  takes 
three  fifh  in  the  month,  it  is  reckoned  good 
luck.  There  are  40  or  50  boats  employed  on 
this.  Along  the  whole  bay  there  is  a  great 
quantity  of  kelp  burnt ;  3000  tons  are  annu- 
ally exported  from  Galway :  the  prefent  price 
is  40s.  to  50s.  a  ton.  The  more  is  let  with 
the  land  againfl  it,  and  is  what  the  people  pay 
their  rent  by.  They  ufe  a  great  quantity  of 
fea  weed,  drove  in  by  ftorms  for  manuring 
land.  In  November  they  carry  it  on,  the  field 
being  ready  marked  out  in  beds  for  potatoes, 
and  leaving  it  on  them,  it  rots  againfl  the 
planting  feafon,  and  gives  them  great  crops. 
They  alio  do  this  with  fern,  cutting  it  in  au- 
tumn, and  laying  it  on  to  the  beds,  get  good 

crops. 


394  G     A    L    W     A     Y. 

crops.  The  poor  people  near  Gal  way  are  ve- 
ry indufirious  in  buying  the  fullage  of  the 
ftreets  of  that  town  -t  they  give  3d.  for  a  horfe 
load  of  two  bafkets,  and  carry  it  three  miles. 

One  circumitance,  relative  to  the  progrefs  of 
the  linen  manufacture  in   this  country,    the 
town  of  Galway  can  inftance.     Mr.  Andrew 
French  of  that  place,  fixteen  years  ago,  im- 
ported  the  firft  cargo  of  flax   feed  of   300 
hogflieads,  and  could  only  fell    100  of  them, 
whereas  now  the  annual  importation  rifes  from 
3,500  to  2,300.     Twenty  years  ago  there  were 
only  20  looms  in  Galway,  now  there  are  1 80. 
They    make    coaife    fheetings    feven-eighths 
wide,  at  o^d.  to  1  id.  a  yard;  dowlas,  28  in- 
ches  wide,    at    yd.    Ofnaburgs    at    yd.    al fo. 
There  are  eight  or  nine  bleach  greens  in  the 
county,  but  they  bleach,  generally  fpeaking, 
only  for  the  country  confumption  :  the  great 
bulk  of  the  linens  are  fent  green  to  Dublin. 
In  the  town  and  neighbourhood  of  Loch-rea, 
there  are  300  looms  employed  on  linens  that 
are  called  Lochreas,    of  28   inches  in  width, 
which  fell  at  yd.  a  yard.     All  the  flax  worked 
in  the  county  is,  generally  fpeaking,  railed  in 
it.     The  yarn  fpun  is  pound  yarn,  not  done 
into  hanks  at  all.     Very  many  weavers  are  in 
the  towns,  without  having  any  land  more  than 
a  cabbage  garden.     The  linen  and  yarn  of  the 
whole  county  has  been  calculated  at  40,00.0!. 
a  year. 

September 


W  O  O  D  L  A  W  N.  395 

September  3d,  left  Moniva,  and  took  the 
road  to  Woodlawn,  the  feat  of  Frederick 
Trench,  Efq;  paffed  many  bogs  of  confidera- 
ble  fize,  perfectly  improveable,  and  without  the 
uncommon  exertions  I  have  juft  defcribed, 
none  could  be  more  anxious  for  my  informa- 
tion than  Mr.  Trench. 

Woodlawn  is  a  feat  improved  entirely  in  the 
modern  Englifh  tafte,  and  is  as  advantageous 
a  copy  of  it  as  I  have  any  where  feen.  t  The 
houfe  ftands  on  the  brow  of  a  riling  ground, 
which  looks  over  a  lawn  fwelling  into  gentle 
inequalities ;  through  thefe  a  fmall  itream  is 
converted  into  a  large  river,  in  a  manner  that 
does  honour   to  the  tafte  of  the  owner;    it 
comes  from  behind  a  hUl,  at  the  foot  of  which 
is  a  pretty  cottage  hid  by  plantation,  and  flows 
into  a  large  mafs  of  wood  in  front  of  the  houfe : 
the  grounds,  which  form  the   banks  of  this 
water,  are  pleafing,  and  are  prettily  fcattered 
with  clumps  and  hngle  trees,  and  furrounded 
by  a  margin  of  wood.     The  houfe  is  an  excel- 
lent one,  fo  well  contrived,  that  the  fame  dif- 
pofition    of   apartments  would   be    agreeable 
upon  almoft  any  fcale  of  building. 

Mr.  Trench's  improvements  of  bog  made 
me  folicitous  to  view  them ;  he  was  fo  oblig- 
ing as  to  give  me  a  full  account,  which  is  as 
follow.  The  firft  method  of  improving  he 
took  was  with  a  bog  of  12  acres,  exceedingly 
wet,  at  the  bottom  of  hills  16  feet  deep  to  his 
knowledge,  but  he  never  yet  was  able  to  mea- 

fure 


396'  W  O  O  D  L  A  W  Rj 

lure  it  to  the  bottom.  A  red  bog,  of  a  light 
fuzzy  fubftance,  like  a  bed  of  tow,  which 
would  not  burn  in  turf;  no  other  product 
than  bog  berries.  Part  of  it  fo  very  wet,  that 
could  not  cut  the  drains  at  firft  wider  thari 
four  feet  and  two  fpits  deep ;  repeated  this 
before  the  hard  froft  of  1765;  had  yet  made 
no  progrefs,  it  being  almoft  as  wet  as  ever : 
but  took  advantage  of  that  froft,  to  cover  the 
ice  two  inches  thick  with  clayey  gravel ;  when 
the  thaw  came,  the  gravel  funk,  and  prefled 
out  the  water.  The  expenfe  of  this  manur- 
ing was  3I.  1  os.  an  acre.  This  gravelling  had 
fuch  an  effect,  that  in  the  May  following  about 
half  of  it  bore  horfes  with  bafkets,  for  carry- 
ing on  dung,  and  where  it  would  not  bear 
them,  it  was  carried  en  by  men.  The  quan- 
tity fix  bufhels  to  the  fquare  perch,  and  im- 
mediately planted  with  potatoes  in  the  com- 
mon trenching  manner.  The  crop,  per  acre, 
40  barrels  each;  44  ftone,  at  8s.  each.  Le- 
velled the  potatoe  trenches  in  digging  for  bar- 
ley, in  doing  which  attended  minutely  to  not 
burying  the  manure ;  this  digging  coft  30s.  an 
acre,  and  the  barley  covered  with  the  fpade, 
which  they  do  very  fail:,  and  the  expenfe  in- 
cluded in  the  30s.  The  crop  of  barley  10  barrels 
an  acre,  at  8s.  After  this  crop,  took  no 
more  trouble  with  it ;  very  rich  and  luxuriant 
grafs  fprang  up  directly,  and  would  let  readi- 
ly in  meadow,  at  25s.  but  part  of  it  in  a  few 
years  would  let  at  2I.  Two  acres  of  it  were 
not  perfectly  reclaimed;  it  was  of  the  moory 
nature  ;  dug  and  burnt  it,  and  put  in  turnips, 

the 


W  O  O  D  L  A  W  N.  397 

the  crop  very  good  :  then  dug  it  for  barley, 
the  produce  14  barrels  an  acre,  and  the  mea- 
dow very  good  ever  fince.  I  was  over  it,  and 
found  it  a  perfect  improvement ;  the  hay  was 
fine,  the  herbage  good,  and  carried  the  com- 
plete appearance  of  a  meadow,  except  in  the 
drains,  where  the  heath  ftili  appears. 

Number   2. 

Twenty-five  acres  of  fpungy  fungous  bog, 
from  8  to  1 6  feet  deep,  had  been  cut  into  very 
great  turf  hoies,  which  holes,  though  they  held 
water,  and  had  drowned  many  a  cow,  yet  had 
fo  far  drained  the  bog  as  to  make  the  lefs  drain- 
ing neceiTary  ;  effected  it,  and  then  levelled  the 
holes  ;  but  as  they  funk  much,  levelled  them 
a  fecond  time.     Upon  this,  took    the  advan- 
tage of  a  froft  to  manure  it  with  clay  and  gra- 
vel,  at  2I.   10s.  an  acre;  then   dunged  a  part 
with  the  quantity  mentioned  already,  and  the 
reft  of  it  manured  with   the  afhes  of  moor, 
which  burnt   yellow.     Upon  this  manuring, 
planted  potatoes ;  the  crop  1  oh  an  acre,  pretty 
equal  being,  as  good  after  the  afhes  as  after  the 
dung.    After  the  potatoes,  levelled  the  trenches, 
and  dug  it  and  lowed  wheat ;  the  crop  6  bar- 
rels  an   acre;     barley  10  barrels,  oats  9  bar- 
rels :  then   left  it  for   meadow,  the  value  2I. 
an  acre. 

Number   3 . 

Another  piece  of  bog  the  fame  fort,  light 
and  fpungy  ;  drained,,  and  then  manured  with 

clayey 


393  W  O  O  D  L  A  W  N. 

clayey  lime-ftone  gravel,  mixed  with  ditch 
earth.  In  the  fummer  planted  potatoes ;  the 
crop  1 5  barrels  an  acre ;  then  dug  for  oats  6 
barrels  an  acre,  meadow  ever  fince,  and  per- 
fectly good,  would  let  at  il.  ios.  an  acre. 

Number   4. 

Another  bog  of  the  fame  fort  perfectly  well 
drained,  manured  with  lime,  80  barrels  an 
acre,  at  4d.  a  barrel ;  planted  potatoes  j  the 
crop  not  worth  digging;  dug  it  for  oats,  the 
crop  not  worth  reaping :  then  left  it  in  grafs, 
which  was  indifferent,  not  worth  more  than 
5s.  an  acre. 

Number    5. 

Another  experiment  was  on  the  fame  fort  of 
bog,  which,  when  well  drained,  was  manured 
in  fpring  with  lime-ftone  gravel,  and  then  with 
marie  inftead  of  dung,  and  planted  with  po- 
tatoes ;  the  crop  4L  an  acre  :  then  dug  it  for 
oats;  the  crop  6  barrels,  and  then  left  to  grafs ; 
worth  il.  5s.  an  acre. 

Number    6. 

Another  experiment,  the  fame  as  the  pre- 
ceding, except  lime  laid  inftead  of  marie  :  the 
effect  in  every  refpe£t  on  a  par  with  the  marie. 
Neither  of  them  yielded  half  the  produce 
which  dung  or  allies  would  have  done. 

Num- 


W  O  O  D  L  A  W  N.  399 

Number  7. 

Another  bog  of  the  fame  fort  was,  after 
draining,  manured  with  lime-ftone  gravel, 
and  then  with  the  fcowering  of  ditches  and 
earth,  to  the  amount  of  3  {.  inches  deep  on  the 
furface  :  expenfe  in  all  4I.  an  acre.  Then  left, 
and  nothing  more  done  to  it  ;  very  good  grafs 
came  the  next  feafon,  worth  for  grazing  18s. 
an  acre. 

Number    8. 

Another  fpongy  bog  drained,  and  then  well 
gravelled,  at  2I.  iqs.  Left  fo  for  three  years  j 
icarce  any  grafs  came,  the  heath  flill  remain- 
ing :  planted  potatoes  on  it  without  any  dung 
or  other  additional  manure;  the  crop  4I.  an 
acre;  then  dug  it  fmooth,  and  nothing  fown 
in  it,  but  came  immediately  to  very  good  paf- 
ture,  worth  15s.  an  acre. 

Mr.  French  recommends,  from  his  experi- 
ence, the  following  mode  of  improving  bogs : 
firft,  the  great  object  is  draining  ;  main  drains 
mould  be  made  on  each  fide  the  bog,  near  the 
firm  land;  thefe  cuts  fhould  be  fix  feet  deep 
and  eight  wide,  and  will  coll:  is.  a  perch. 
Then  crofs  drains  from  main  drain  to  main 
drain,  at  from  5  to  10  perch  from  one  to  the 
other,  at  three  feet  deep  and  four  wide,  at  the 
expenfe  of  three  pence  a  perch.  Here  is  the 
firft  year's  work.  The  next  year  go  into  all 
the  drains  and  fink  them,  which  will  coft  id.  a 
3  perch: 


400  W  0  O  D  L  A  W  N. 

perch :  if  a  froft  comes,  carry  on   the   lime- 
ftone  gravel,  let   it  be  a  coat  of  two   inches 
thick;  if  three  it  will  be   better;  two  inches 
will  coft  3I.  if  not  carried  farther  than  half  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  ;  if  carried  a  quarter  of  a 
mile,  it   will  coft  4I.  10s.  if  half  a  mile,  61. 
1 5s.  if  a  mile  9I.     Prefers  the  clayey  Iime-ftone 
gravel  to  every  other  manure  :  if  that  is  not 
to  be  had,  clay  ;  and  if  not  clay,  other  gravel; 
if  no  gravel  or  clay,  then  lime ;  if  nothing 
elfe,  then  the  light  marie  under  bogs.     Upon 
this   manuring    fpread  a  compoft,    one-third 
dung,    one-third  ditch  earth,  and  one-third 
lime-ftone  gravel,  nine  bufhels   to  the  fquare 
perch  ;  if  dung  only,  fix  ;  and  upon  that  plant 
potatoes  in  the  common  manner.     The  crop 
will,  on  an  average,  be   30  barrels,  at  8s.  or 
12I.  an   acre.     The    poor  people  will  readily 
give  three  or  four  guineas  an  acre  for  liberty 
to  plant   them.     Upon  this  crop  of  potatoes 
fpread  two  bufhels  of  dung  more  to  the  perch, 
arid  plant  a  fecond  crop  of  potatoes,  making 
the  furrows  where  the  ridges  were,  and  make 
the  ridges  of  both  crops  nine  feet  wide,  and  the 
trenches  four.     This  crop  of  potatoes  will  be 
full  as  good  as  the  firft.     Then  dig  it,  levell- 
ing the  trenches,  fcoopingthe  fides,  to  fill  up 
with,  and  the  manured  part  on   the  furface  ; 
fow  barley;  the  crop  will  be  12  barrels  on  an 
average ;  with  this  barley  fow  grafs  feeds,  and 
it  will  immediately  be  worth  for  meadow  il. 
1  os.     Let  this  go  on  for  feven  years  ;  then  give 
it  a  light  gravelling,  at  il.  10s.  an  acre;  dung 
it  four  buthels  per  perch;  plant  potatoes,   12I. 
1  an 


W  O  O  D  L  A  W  N.  401 

an  acre;  then  barley  14  barrels;  and  then 
meadow  worth  40s.  In  this  circumftance  of 
letting  meadow  it  (hould  be  remarked,  that 
they  will  hire  it  at  great  prices,  fuch  as  mi- 
nuted, but  the  fame  lands  would  not  let  at 
more  than  1 8s.  upon  a  leafe  ;  for  in  one  cafe 
you  ftand  the  chance  of  keeping  the  land  to 
its  prefent  heart,  and  in  the  other  the  tenant 
has  that  chance. 

There  is  a  circumftance  which  mould  be 
mentioned,  the  fkin  of  the  turf  fhould  not  be 
broken  for  fome  years  by  heavy  cattle;  for 
wherever  they  make  a  hole,  the  rufhes  grow 
at  once,  which  cannot  be  eafily  deftroyed.  Mr. 
French  does  not  think  it  at  all  neceflary  to 
keep  an  improved  bog  under  grafs,  as  he  has 
found  by  experience,  that  the  more  they  are 
cultivated  the  better  they  grow.  In  the  winter 
he  feeds  his  reclaimed  bogs  with  fheep ;  they 
have  a  perpetual  fpring  of  grafs  all  through 
that  feafon,  and  are  of  a  nature  fo  contrary  to 
that  of  rotting  fheep,  that  they  will  recover 
thofe  which  are  threatened  with  that  dif- 
temper. 

He  has  planted  feveral  large  clumps  in  his 
reclaimed  bogs,  and  has  found  that  almoft 
every  kind  of  tree  thrives  well  in  them  :  I 
thought  the  fpruce  fir  feemed  to  get  up  the 
quicker!:,  but  all  of  them  appeared  perfectly 
healthy. 

Vol,  L  E  e  Calculation 


402 


WOODLAWN. 


Calculation  of  improving  a  fquare  mile  upon  tht 
preceding  plan. 


9  miles  of  main  drains. 
64  miles  crofs  ditto. 


2881  perches  of  main  drains,  at  2s. 
20480  perches  of  crofs  drains,  at  6d. 
Two  miles  of  road,  10  feet  wide,  at  75I. 
Gravelling,  on  an  average  of  the  diftance,  61. 

per  acre 
Labour  on  the  dunging,  40s.  per  acre 

Deduct  rent  of  the  land  for  potatoes,  at  3I. 

Manuring  fecond  crop  of  potatoes,  labour 
20s.  an  acre  - 

# 

Deduct  rent  for  potatoes,  as  before 

Levelling  and  digging  for  the  barley,  30s.  an 
acre  -  -  - 


288    o  a 

511   19  9 

150    o  o 

3840    o  o 

1280    o  o 


6069 

*9 

9 

1920 

0 

0 

4149 

19 

9 

640 

0 

0 

4789 

19 

9 

1920 

0 

0 

2869 

19 

9 

960 

0 

c 

3829  19  9 

256    o     o 


A  barrel  an  acre  of  barley  feed,  8s.  an  acre    - 
Reaping,  harvesting,  and  threfhing,  20$.  an 
acre  -  640    o    o 


4725  19     9 
Brought 


WOODLAWN,  403 

Brought  over  4725  19    9 

Deduct  the  value  of  the  crop,  9  barrels,  at 

8s. — 3I.  I2S- an  acre  -  -     2304.    o    o 

Remain  total  expences  of  the  improvement  ,£.2421  19    9 

Rent  of  640  acres,  at  16s.  an  acre,  512I.  which  income  is 
21I.  per  cent,  for  the  expenditure  of  2421I. 

Several  very  great  deductions  are  made  in 
this  account,  becaufe  the  bog  is  fuppofed  to  be 
a  very  large  one. 

Mr.  Trench  buys  in  year-old  bullocks  and 
fome  fpayed  heifers,  at  il.  15s.  each  ;  fells  them 
out  at  three-years  old,  good  (lores,  but  not 
fat,  at  61.  3s.  on  an  average.  He  has  930 
fheep,  confuting  of  300  ewes,  180  lambs,  270 
yearlings  and  two-year  olds,  and  1 80  fat  fheep. 
The  annual  flaughter  and  fale  is  180  fat  we- 
thers, at  il.  3s. — 60  culled  ewes,  at  15s.  In 
order  to  fave  dung  for  his  bog  improvement, 
he  has  cut  a  large  drain  from  his  yards  and 
ftables  through  the  garden,  paved  it,  and 
keeps  it  filled  with  bog  earth,  and  all  the  urine 
of  the  cattle,  &c.  running  into  it,  makes  an 
excellent  compofl  for  the  gardener. 

Average  rent  of  the  improved  part  of  the 
county  of  Galway,  14s.  an  acre.  About  Wood- 
lawn  14s.  to  1 8s.  The  foil  all  lime-ftone  gra- 
vel, or  lime-ftone  fine  found  land.  The  iize 
of  farms  varies;  there  are  many  fmall  ones  of 
from  30  to  100  acres,  part  grazing  and  part 
tillage  ;  alfo  many  ftock  ones,  up  to  1000  and 
E  e  2  1 500  acres  •, 


4o4  W  O  0  D  L  A  W  N. 

1500  acres  j  and  thefe  graziers  re-let  to  the 
cabbins  part  of  it  at  a  very  high  rent,  by  whom 
are  carried  on  moft  of  the  tillage  of  the  coun- 
try. Mr.  Trench  remarks,  that  if  good  land 
is  let  to  the  poor  people,  they  are  fure  to  de- 
ft roy  it ;  but  give  them  heath,  or  what  is  bad, 
and  they  will  make  it  good. 

1 .  Potatoes  on  the  grafs.  2.  Summer  fallow. 
3.  Wheat.     4.  Oats.     5.  Oats.     6.  Lay  out. 

—  No  feeds. 

I.  Potatoes.  2.  Barley.  3.  Wheat.  4, 
Oats.     5.  Oats,     6.  Oats. 

1.  Potatoes  on  grafs.  2.  Gravel  and  fal- 
low. 3.  Wheat.  4.  Barley.  5.  Oats.  6, 
Leave  it  for  grafs. 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Flax.  3.  Wheat.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.     6.  Lay  out. 

Average  produce  of  potatoes,  30  barrels,  at 
42  done,  at  8s.  or  12I.  Of  wheat,  8  barrels, 
at  20  ftone.  Of  barley,  12  barrels,  at  16  flone. 
Of  oats,   12  barrels,  at  14  ftone. 

Every  poor  man  fows  fome  flax,  but  ftill 
they  do  not  raife  enough  for  their  fpinning, 
for  that  is  univerfal.  Lime-ftone  gravel  is  the 
general  manure.  No  lime,  though  it  is  every 
where  to  be  had ;  the  price  to  burn  is  4d.  a 
barrel  of  3  bufhels  roach.  Every  cabbin  has 
eight  or  nine  acres,  and  two  or  three  cows,  or 

two 


K  I  L  T  A  R  T  A  N.  405 

two  cows  and  one  horfe  ;  and  about  half  have 
horfes,  two  or  three  pigs,  and  many  poultry  ; 
half  a  rood  of  flax,  one  acre  potatoes,  or  half 
at  a  medium.  They  live  on  potatoes,  oats,  or 
barley  bread,  or  butter ;  like  oats  much  bet- 
ter. Their  circumftances  are  much  improved 
in  20  years.  They  pay  rent  12s.  to  14s.  an 
acre  for  their  lands, 

September  4th,  to  Kiltartan,  the  feat  of  Ro- 
bert Gregory,  Efq.  who  is  engaged  in  purfuits 
which,  if  well  imitated,  will  improve  the  face 
of  the  country  not  a  little.  He  has  built  a 
large  houfe  with  numerous  offices,  ahd  taken 
5  or  600  acres  of  land  into  his  own  hands, 
which  I  found  him  improving  with  great  fpirit. 
Walling  was  his  firft  object,  of  which  he  has 
executed  many  miles  in  the  raoft  perfect  man- 
ner :  his  dry  ones,  6  feet  high,  3  feet  and  a  half 
thick  at  bottom,  and  20  inches  at  top,  coft 
2s.  6d.  the  perch,  running  meafure.  Piers  in 
mortar,  with  agate  andirons  complete,  il.  14s. 
Walls  in  mortar,  five  feet  high,  coft  6s.  a  perch. 
He  has  fixed  two  Englifli  bailiffs  on  his  farm, 
one  for  accounts  and  overlooking  his  walling 
and  other  bufinefs ;  and  another  from  Nor- 
folk, for  introducing  the  turnip  hufbandry ; 
he  has  12  acres  this  year;  and  what  particu- 
larly pleafed  me,  I  faw  fome  Irifhmen  hoeing 
them  j  the  Norfolk  man  had  taught  them  ; 
and  I  was  convinced  in  a  moment,  that  thefe 
people  would  by  practice  foon  attain  a  fufficient 
degree  of  perfe&ion  in  it.  The  foil  around  is 
all  a  dry  found  good  lime-ftone  land,  and  lets 
E  e  3  from 


4o6      DRUMMOLAND. 

from  ios.  to  12s,  an  acre,  fome  at  more.  It 
is  in  general  applied  to  fheep,  Mr.  Gregory 
has  a  very  noble  nurfery3  from  which  he  is 
making  plantations,  which  will  foon  be  a  great 
ornament  to  the  country. 

September  5th,  to  Drummoland,  the  feat  of 
Sir  Lucius  O'Brien,  in  the  county  of  Clare,  a 
gentleman  who  had  been  repeatedly  afliduous 
to  procure  me  every  fort  of  information.     I 
(hould   remark,  as   I  have  now  left  Galway, 
that  that  county,  from  entering  it  in  the  road 
to  Tuam  till  leaving  it  to-day,  has  been,  upon 
the  whole,  inferior  to  moft  of  the  parts  I  have 
travelled  in  Ireland  in  point  of  beauty  :  there  are 
not  mountains  of  a  magnitude  to  make  the 
view  finking.     It  is  perfectly  free  from  woods, 
and  even  trees,  except  about  gentlemen's  houfes, 
nor  had  it  a  variety  in  its  face.    1  do  not,  how- 
ever, fpeak  without  exception  j  I  paffed  fome 
tracts    which     are     chearful,      Drummoland 
has  a  pleafing  variety  of  grounds  about  the 
houfe ;    it  ftands  on  a  hill  gently  rifing  from 
a  lake  of  24  acres,   in  the  middle  of  a  noble 
wood  of  oak,  afh,  poplar,  &c.  three  beautiful 
hills  rife  above  it,  over  which  the  plantations 
fpread  in  a  varied  manner  -}  and  thefe  hills 
command  very  fine  views  of  the  great  rivers 
Fergus  and  Shannon  at  their  junction,    being 
each  of  them  a  league  wide.     For  the  follow- 
ing particulars  1   am  indebted  to  Sir  Lucius 
O'Brien. 

Average 


DRUMMOLAND.       407 

Average  rent  of  the  county  of  Clare,  5s. 
The  bad  tracts  of  land  in  the  county,  are  the 
eaft  mountains,  part  of  the  barony  of  Burrin, 
and  the  great  peninfula,  which  forms  the  north 
fhoreof  the  Shannon.  Great 'tracts  are  let  at 
nothing  at  all,  but  there  are  20,000  acres  from 
Paradiie  hill,  along  the  Fergus  and  Shannon  to 
Limerick,  which  flet  at  20s.  an  acre.  Thefe 
lands  are  called  the  Corcajfes.  The  foil  of  them 
is  either  a  rich  black  loam,  or  a  deep  rich  blue 
clay ;  and  all  the  higher  lands  are  lime-ftone, 
or  lime-ftone  gravel.  The  mountains  are  ge- 
nerally grit-ftone.  The  fize  of  farms  is  various, 
Captain  Tim.  Macnamara  farms  7000  acres, 
but  part  in  other  counties.  Mr.  Singleton, 
4000  acres.  A  farm  of  300I.  a  year  is  a  very 
fmall  one;  500I.  a  year  middle;  this  is  fpeak- 
jng  of  ftock-farms.  The  tillage  of  the  country 
is  carried  on  by  little  farmers,  from  20I.  to 
iool.  a  year-  but  moft  of  it  by  the  poor  la- 
bourers, who  are  generally  under-tenants,  not 
holding  of  the  landlords.  The  courfes  of  crops 
are, 

1.  Potatoes.  2.  Bere.  3.  Wheat.  4.  Oats. 
5.  Oats.     6.  Oats.     7.  Lay  it  out  to  grafs. 

1.  Beans.  2.  Bere.  3.  Barley.  4.  Wheat. 
5.  Oats.  6.  Oats.  7.  Oats.  8.  Lay  it  out,  or 
beans  again. 

Of  wheat  they  fow  10  to  15  flone  an  acre; 
the  crop,  in  the  corcafs  grounds,  8  barrels,  in 
the  other  lands  5  or  6  :  20  flone  to  the  barrel. 

Potatoes 


4o8         DRUMMOLAND. 

Potatoes  they  meafure  by  the  barrel  of  48 
ftone :  they  plant  6  to  the  acre,  and  the  ave- 
rage produce  50  barrels.  They  never  plant 
them  on  the  corcafs  lands,  for  they  will  not 
grow  there.  Mr.  Fitzgerald,  of  Shepperton, 
has  had  100  barrels  per  acre;  the  favourite 
forts  are  the  apple,  the  Caftania,  the  Buck, 
being  a  fpecies  of  the  Howard.  They  fat  pigs 
on  them ;  but  what  much  amazed  me,  was 
fattening  hogs  on  grafs,  which  they  do  very 
generally,  and  make  them  as  fat  as  a  bullock, 
but  put  them  up  to  beans  for  three  weeks  to 
harden  the  fat.  Of  bailey  they  fow  14  ftone 
an  acre,  and  get  fix  barrels,  at  32  flone  each. 
Bere,  two  rowed  barley,  called  Englijh  here, 
and  four  rowed,  called  Dutch,  and  of  thefe  the 
bere  yields  befl.  Mr.  Singleton  has  had  40 
barrels  of  bere  per  acre,  each  16  ftone  on  the 
corcafs  land.  Of  oats  they  fow  21  ftone  to  the 
acre,  and  get  12  barrels,  on  an  average  14 
ftone  each;  and  on  the  corcafs  land  16.  Of 
beans  they  fow  35  ftone  to  the  acre,  fow  them 
on  the  green  fod  foon  after  chriftmas,  and 
plough  them  in ;  never  hand-hoe  or  weed 
them  :  the  average  crop  20  barrels,  at  20 
ftone;  30  the  greateft;  they  are  ufed  for  home 
confumption  in  dear  years,  and  for  exportation 
in  cheap.  The  poor  people  make  bread  of 
them,  and  eat  them  boiled,  and  they  prefer  a 
bufhel  of  them  to  a  bufhel  of  wheat ;  but  they 
will  not  eat  them,  except  in  a  fcarcity.  No 
peafe  fown,  but  rape  in  confiderable  quantities 
in  mountain  grounds,  or  boggy,  both  of 
which  are  burnt  for  it.      They  plough  the 

furrow 


DRUMMOLAND,        409 

furrow  very  {hallow,  and  burn  it :  they  never 
feed  it.     The  crop  of  feed  8  barrels,  at  16  ft. 
at  from  7s.  6d.  to  18s.  a  barrel,  generally  from 
14s.  to  17s.     It  is  prefied  into  oil  at  the  mills 
of  fix  mile  bridge  and  Scariff,  near  Killaloe; 
but  the  greateft  part  is  bought  up  by  the  mer- 
chants of  Limerick  for  exportation  for  Hol- 
land, and  laft  year  fome  part  of  it  has  been 
lent  to  Great  Britain,  in  confequence  of  the 
acl  which  pafTed  laft  ieilions.     The  rape  cakes 
are  all  exported  to  England  for  manure  :  the 
price  of  them  at  45s.  or  42s.  per  ton.     The 
rape  and  the  bean  ftraw  are  burnt  to  allies  for 
the  foap  boilers ;  and  Mr.  Singleton  has  a  kiln 
contrived  on  purpofe  for  burning  lime  with  it, 
collecting  the  afhes  at  the  fame  time  that  the 
lime  is  burnt.     No  clover  is  fown,  except  by 
Sir  Lucius  O'Brien.     Flax  is  fown  in  fmall 
quantities  by  the  poor  people  for  their  own 
confumption ;  and  fome  yarn  fold,    but  not 
much  from  the  whole  county.     Spinning  is  by 
no  means  general ;  not  half  the  women  fpin. 
Some  linens,  handle  cloths,  and  Clare  dowlas, 
for  exportation  in  fmall  quantities,  and  other 
forts,  enough  for  home  confumption.     Wool 
is  ipun  for  cloathing  for  the    people,    into 
worfted  yarn   for   ferges,  and   into  yarn  for 
ftockings.     Great  quantities  of  frizes  are  fold 
out  of  the  country. 

Much  heath  wafte  land,  many  hundreds  of 
acres  every  year  are  brought  in  by  paring  and 
burning  for  rape,  but  ufe  no  manure  for  it  j 
after  that   wheat,    and  get   good  crops,  and 

then 


410       DRUMMOLAND. 

then  two,  three,  or  four  crops  of  oats,  good 
ones  ;  then  left  for  grafs,  and  comes  tolerable 
herbage,  worth  5  s.  an  acre. 

The  principal  grazing  fyftem  confifts  in  a 
union  of  both  rearing  and  fattening ;  the  rearing 
farms  generally  at  a  confiderable  diftance  from 
the  rich  lands  on  the  Fergus  and  Shannon. 
The  moft  profitable  management  of  grazing, 
is  to  buy  in  year-olds  upon  this  fyftem,  but  it 
can  only  be  done,  by  hewing  a  variety  of  land, 
commonly  at  a  diftance.  It  is  found  much 
more  beneficial  than  buying  in  bullocks  in 
autumn,  and  cows  in  May,  as  the  Meath  gra- 
ziers do. 

The  average  price  of  the  year-olds,  is  from 
2I.  2s.  to  2I.  1  os.  and  the  price  fold  at  four  and 
a  half  year-olds,  weighing  41  cwt.  44,  to  5* 
cwt.  is  on  an  average  at  81.     For  cows  bought 
in  in  May,  3I.  3s.  to  3I.  1 2s.  and  fell  at  5I.  1  os. 
An  acre  of  the  co reals  land  will  fatten  one  of 
thefe  bullocks,  but  then  it  muft  not  be  win- 
ter-fed  at  all.     Sheep,  on   an  average,  fhear 
three  to  a  ftone  of  1 61b.  and  fell  at  is.  per. 
lb.     Mr.  Macnamara  fold  this  year  $5  bags, 
befides  his  lambs  wool ;  the  weight  is  from  fix 
hundred,  to  feven  and  a  half,  fifty  ftone,  and 
this  year's  price  17s.  6d.  a  ftone.     Upon  the 
Jime-ftone  fheep-walks  of  this  county,  they 
keep  from  one  and  a  half  to  five  j  on  an  ave- 
rage, three.     The   lofs  on   ftock-fheep,   bul- 
locks, &c.  will  not  amount  to  more  than  one 
percent,  on  the  v&lue.     For  hiring  and  flock- 
ing 


DRUMMOLAND.       411 

ing  a  grazing  farm,  three  rents  are  reckoned 
to  do.  Thofe  bullocks  that  are  to  be  fattened 
the  fummer  following,  they  give  hay  mofr.  part 
of  the  winter,  tfbr  four  or  five  months,  as 
much  as  they  will  eat,  which  will  be  half  an 
acre  of  good  meadow!, 

There  are  4000  bullocks  fattened  annually 
in  the  county  of  Clare  ;  bought  in  at  61.  and 
fold  out  at  iol.  and  3000  cows,  bought  in  at 
3I.  and  fold  fat  at  5I.  alfo  6000  fat  wethers, 
fold  out  of  the  county  annually  at  20s.  each. 

This  country  is  famous  for  cyder-orchards, 
the  cakagee  efpecially,  which  is  incomparably 
fine.  An  acre  of  trees  yields  from  four  to  ten 
hogfheads  per  annum,  average  fix,  and  what 
is  very  uncommon  in  the  cyder  counties  of 
England,  yield  a  crop  every  year.  I  never  be- 
held trees  fo  loaden  with  apples  as  in  Sir  Lu- 
cius O'Brien's  orchard ;  it  amazed  me  that 
they  did  not  break  under  the  immenfe  load 
which  bowed  down  the  branches.  He  expect- 
ed a  hogfhead  a  tree  from  feveral. 

Land  fells  at  twenty  years  purchafe.  Rents 
fell  in  the  rearing  lands  5s.  or  6s.  in  the  pound, 
but  rich  lands  fell  very  little.  Tythes  are 
compounded  by  a  composition  made  every  year 
by  the  piece.  Fat  bullocks  nothing.  Sheep,  20s 
per  hundred.  Wheat,  5s.  Barley  3s.  Oats,  2s. 
Potatoes,  1  os.  Middle  men,  not  common, 
but  much  land  re-let,  arifing  from  the  long 
tenures  which  are  given  of  three  lives,  &c. 

The 


412       DRUMMOLAND, 

The  poor  live  upon  potatoes  ten  months  of  the 
ypar ;  but  if  a  mild  winter,  and  a  good  crop, 
all  the  year  on  them.  They  keep  cows  very 
generally,  but  not  fo  many  as  in  the  lift  of 
Sir  Lucius's  tenants.  Labour  is  ufually  paid 
for  with  land.  Working- days  of  roman  ca^ 
tholics  may  be  reckoned  250  in  a  year,  which 
are  paid  for  with  as  much  laud  as  amounts  to 
about  fix  pounds,  and  the  good  and  bad  maf- 
ter  is  diftinguifhed  by  this  land  being  reckon" 
ed  at  an  high  or  a  low  rent.  The  ftate  of  the 
poor,  on  comparifon  with  what  they  were 
twenty  years  ago,  is  that  they  are  much  in- 
creafed  in  numbers,  and  better  clad  then  they 
were,  and  more  regularly  fed,  in  being  freed 
from  thofe  fcarcities  which  were  felt  before  the 
laws  for  the  increafe  of  tillage.  Relative  to 
religion,  there  was  a  return  to  the  committee 
of  religion,  in  thehoufe  of  Commons,  in  1765, 
when  the  return  of  Clare  was  as  follows,  in 
five  divifions : 


No.  r.            896  prot 

eftants, 

1 683 1  catholics. 

2.           1089 

12156 

3.             291 

2694 

4.              99 

786 

5.               IOI 

4677 

2476 

37*44 

2476 

Total 

over 

3962 

1 5  to  1,  and  404 

Lucerne, 


DRUMMOLAND.       413 

Lucerne,    Sir  Lucius  cultivated    for   fome 
years,  and  found  while  it  was  attended  to,  and 
kept  clean,  that  it  was  of  great  ufe  for  horfes, 
but  his  abfence  and  neglect  deftroyed  it.     Re- 
lative to  fmuggling  wool  from  Clare,  he  gave 
me  feveral  ftrong   reafons  for  believing  that 
there  had  not  been  any  for  fome  years ;  that 
county  is  well  fituated  for  it,  and  fome  (hips 
fmuggled  brandy  and  tobacco,  and  could  carry 
it  away  with  great  eafe,    yet  not  one  goes. 
Sir  Lucius  was  executor  to  a  man  who  made 
a  fortune  by  it  twenty-five  years  ago,  but  he 
would  never  fmuggle  when  above  10s.  a  ftone; 
I  had  the  fame  account  in  Galway.     The  caufe 
of  the  high  price  of  wool,  is  the  admiffion  of 
woollen  yarn  in  all  the  ports  of  England,  and 
the  increafed  demand  in  the  Mancheiter  fabric 
for  that  yarn,  which  demand  would  have  ope- 
rated in  England  as  in  Ireland,  had  the  cheap- 
nefs  of  fpinning  been  equal.     Another  caufe, 
the  increafe  of  population,  and  the  people  be- 
ing better  clad.     Sending  a  pound  of  wool  to 
France,  fmugglers  compute  to  be  fix-pence, 
which  is  fifty  per  cent,  on  the  prefent  prime 
coft.     Thus  the  French  could  get  wool  much 
cheaper  from  England,  where  the  prime  coit 
is  lower.     There  is  none  from  Cork,  for  being 
a  manufacturing  town,  the  people  would  not 
allow  it.     A  duty  of  4d.  per  ftone  of  iSlb.  on 
woollen  and  worfted  yarn  exported,  marks  the 
quantity  which  Ireland  grows  beyond  its  own 
confumption.     Raw  wool,   two  thoufand  to 
10,000  ftone,  the  reft  yarn,  which   is  nearly 
doubled  in  value  by  the  manufacture.     The 
2  quantity 


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DRUMMOLAND.      415 

Sir  Lucius  O'Brien  introduced  me  to  two  of 
the  moll  confiderable  graziers  in   the  county, 
Mr.  Singleton,  and  Mr.  Fitzgerald,  and  rode 
through  a  part  of  their  farms,.     Mr.  Singleton's 
corkafs  meadows  were  one  continued   bed  of 
rufhes,    till   he  deftroyed  them   by  a  method 
which  alone  proved  effectual,  which  is  digging 
up  the  rufh,   and   turning  it  topfy-turvy  into 
the  hole  again,  this  he  finds  effectually  deflroys 
them,  and  the  expenle  is  not  ib  great  as  might 
be  imagined.    This  gentleman  has  more  tillage- 
land  than  common  upon  grazing  farms ;  he 
fhewed  me  a  haggard,    well  filled  with  wheat 
flacks ;  feventeen   acres   of  that  grain  yielded 
him  196  barrels.     Mr.  Fitzgerald  is  a  very  at- 
tentive farmer,  and  in  feveral  particulars,  con- 
ducts his  bufmefs  upon  principles  different  from 
thofe  which  are  common  in  Ireland.     He  has 
built  excellent  farming-offices  ;  particularly  a 
barn,    exceedingly  well   contrived;    the   corn 
may  be  thrown  at  once  from  the  part  of  the 
barn  where  it  is  flowed  on  to  two  threfhing 
floors,    the  one  over  another,  and  from  the 
flacks  through  a  window  into  the  barn.     His 
hay  is  aifo  thrown  in  the  fame  manner,  down 
into  the   cow-houfe,   and  his  potatoes  into  a 
vault.     Thefe  conveniencies,  which  are  a  great 
faving  of  labour,  are  gained  by  the  buildings 
being  raifed  on  the  fide  of  a  fleep   hill,  cut 
away  for  the  purpofe.     His  cows  he  keeps  in 
the  houfe  all  winter,  by  which  means  they  are 
better  wintered,  and  he  raifes  a  great  quantity 

of 


4i6        DRUMMOLAND. 

of  manure.  The  chaff  of  his  corn  crops  he 
faves  carefully,  which  is  directly  contrary  to 
the  country  j  and  what  is  much  more,  cuts 
much  hay  and  firaw  into  chaff,  with  an  engine, 
which  he  finds  to  anfwer  perfectly  well ;  the 
man  works  it  with  one  hand,  and  fupplies 
it  with  the  other,  being  fixed  againft  the 
wall. 


The  End  of  the  Firft  Volume, 


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